I'm thinking about making a concrete tube, and I was wondering if I used two different diameter pvc pipes as the mold if I could remove the concrete without damaging it too badly.
Question by PathogenLabs | last reply
I'm installing a new heater for a spa and am having trouble hooking up the plumbing. I am using 2" PVC and have built the whole manifold from the filter to the heater and to the return to the spa, but I can't figure out how to hook it up to the existing pipe that returns the hot water to the spa. It sticks up about 5" out of the cement pad where all the equipment is located, but it's not a standard size/shape. It's shaped like a car radiator's hose nipple with a bulge between two narrower bits so that you could put a hose over it and clamp it behind the bulge but i'm trying not to do it that way since the hoses that are used with PVC aren't meant for pressure or heat. That is how it was originally hooked up but when I took it apart the hose was all deteriorated on the inside. None of the exposed part is a standard size where I could just cut it and bond a coupling on. I was thinking about trying to use a radiator hose but don't know what the spa chemicals would do to it.?
Question by siamonsez | last reply
I was thinking about it from a long time but I cannot get the answer
Question by absingh | last reply
We needed 80 feet of 3/4" PVC from the local hardware store. Since it's pretty much impossible to park near it and the nearest available car was a couple miles away anyway we decided to carry it by bike. All we used was a couple pieces of inner tube and Brian's Xtracycle. I bet I could've pulled this off on another bike I've recently adopted, but we wanted to be safe. Speaking of safe, this rode pretty well, but the left turns were a little touchy as the front wheel would rub against the PVC. Good thing I was only going a few blocks. Along the way guy in the street told us that that was how the Vietcong would attack them. "They used to strap missiles to bikes! Heheh. Yeah, they kept getting us."
Topic by fungus amungus | last reply
I live in Van Nuys area of CA 91402
Question by rlindsarl | last reply
There are still people out there playing with high voltage.And one big problem when it comes to Tesla coils is winding the secondary coil.Now, I won't go into the details and options of the actual winding part, instead I would like to share some tricks that might make things easier for your project.Whether you wind fully by hand or make use of some mechanical winder, magnet wire is a very slippery thing on PVC.For that reason and some others we usually wind as tight and close as possible.Any leftover spaces that you find after the winding is finnished will severly compromise the overall tension of the wire in this region if fixed.Next problem is what many call aging.No matter how good you coat your coil with varnish or paint it will start to degrade over time.I found a simple fix for these problems :)Well, not really that simple but I am too lazy today to make a full Instructable for just an addition that everyone can make in a few minutes....Let me start with idea behind it all:I noticed that no matter how thick the pipe or wire is that there is little to no chance at all to get any of the coating material through the wire and all the way down to the PVC.One coil failed after I abused it so I did some cuts and had a close look with a magnifying glass.The coil itself was really good covered but it was like a sleeve that sits on the PVC with nothing on the underside of the wire except for a few single spots.Some people will now say to just a much thinner mix for the coating to allow the stuff to sweep through but that does not always work.One big issue I noticed is that not all paints or varnishes actually stick to PVC.Especially those non smelling eco friendly ones most places now sell.This means when the coil expands due to the vibrations and heat the wire can simply rattle off the varnish or the coating itself can crack under the stress.So I thought there must be a way to fix this right at the winding stage....PVC is a good insulator too!So why not use PVC instead of messing with other things?My first attempt here works quite well with thin wire and goes like this:Go outside with your winding rig and have a bottle of PVC primer and a little brush or sponge ready as well as some gloves.If you have use a friend, if you have none make a small rig to hold the sponge right in front of your winding area.The key is to keep the sponge wet with the primer so it will wet the pipe properly.Best is to have the speed and distance set so the surface just starts to dry off under the wire.The primer will cause the PVC to soften, so the wire slightly sinks into the surface.An automatic winding rig is best here as it allows for consistency.There is no too much or too little here is nothing drips terribly and your wire sticks without fully sinking in.Once done you can cover the winding with your prefered coating.For thicker wire, lets say 0.3mm or thicker, I now use a similar way but with more preperations:Using some very rough sandpaper on a belt or vibrating sander I create a small pile of PVC dust.If you prefer some fancy color you can use ABS plasic here too and it dissolves in a similar way.The resulting mix should be free of lumps and of even color, if in doubt use more primer.Consistency should be a bit thinner than honey, if yours is too thin you can add more ABS/PVC or let the primer evaporate off while stirring it every now and then.To get a good start I do a few turns dry first with quite a big spacing.When approaching the actual start of the winding area I use some stick tape to make the last alignment and start to apply the mix onto the first bit of the winding area.Some lint free cloth with a bit of primer is used to wipe off any excess towards the still uncovered part of the pipe.Every time the mix on the pipe dries out too fast a brush with some primer is use to wet it.Every time the excess runs out a bit more mix is applied onto the wound area.The key is to only have a small area in front of the winding covered with mix with the most is on the winding and "cleaned" off towards the empty area.This way the entire wire is covered by PVC all around.To finnish off you simply use a brush and paint the mix onto the rotating coil until you have an even finnish.What are the downsides?The primer stinks and is certainly not healthy to breathe in. So good ventilation is a must have and it works better in colder temeratures as it gives you more time.It might require some test runs with braided fishing line or similar to get a feeling for how much mix or primer you need to apply and how much max tesion you can use to preven the wire from sinking in.Any benefits?IMHO using this method makes it possible to get a proper bond between the PVC pipe and the wire.And by using PVC or ABS as the coating there is little to no change material properties.This in return gives far less chances for vibrations or wire expansions that result in failing insulations.The whole thing just is one piece of PVC with the wire embedded in it instead of having a wire on top of the PVC with some coating above. ;)Are there alternatives to the PVC primer?If Acetone is much cheaper than you can use it but the same safety measures apply and the mix might dry a bit quicker.What if I need a break or stop the winding for one reason or another?Simply wipe off all access and stop with just enough tension on the wire so you can star again with no problems.Then start by wetting and applying the mix and continue winding as before.
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply
I heard somewhere that WD40 would damage or corrode PVC, and wanted to know if this was true. If it is, does anyone know what could be used to lubricate PVC.
Question by 1337f0x | last reply
Question by Rayonger | last reply
I want to bend my pvc pipe into a circle without compromising the inside shape. I have tried to do this but it continues to pinch where i want the round to be. I have tried putting sand inside but perhaps i did something wrong because it didn't work.
Question by livntoasty | last reply
Im making a handle for a project, and I recently found some fake leather in my basement, so i want to glue it to the PVC pipe to give it a more authentic look.
Question by meburnfire | last reply
I'm going to be building a pvc xylophone like some of the ones on this website. I am really knew to wood works so would someone like to tell me what kind of wood to use. It needs to be able to hold a decent load and could look nice but doesnt need to and if there are multiple types then which one is the cheapest. I also would like to know if primed mdf is an ok type of wood to use Side note the i specifically said pvc so pvc pipes is what it is made out of and it needs to hold a bunch of pvc so it has to be durable also i want to know a specific one not a hard or not particle pine? oak? what
Question by hungyhipo 2 | last reply
My picturers are a mosaic of steps to take when winding coils on Cantex 4 inch PVC electrical conduit. Uses include Tesla coils, flow sensors, and antennas. http://aa8qv.blogspot.com Please forward any and all comments and suggestions. Thank you !
Topic by JohnHagy | last reply
I am building an outdoor movie screen based on the following pictures but I would like the screen to be able to fold back and rest on the back supports to minimize wind resistance or blowing over. my idea is to build them in two parts screen and base and attach them with some kind of hinge system. but i know nothing about hinges so i need help or if you have another idea tell me thanks http://img683.imageshack.us/i/indexphpactiondlattachtz.jpg/ http://img546.imageshack.us/i/indexphpactiondlattacht.jpg/ http://img641.imageshack.us/i/indexphpactiondlattachtf.jpg/ http://img692.imageshack.us/i/indexphpactiondlattachtg.jpg/
Question by gamer43 | last reply
I see so many good things about PVC pipe used for building things. In America you seem to be able to get lots of sizes of pipe and specialist fittings. In the UK in bricks and mortar stores we are limited to just plumbing supplies. ie 21mm 32mm and 40mm pipe - we cant get corner 3 way fittings, 4 or way, or any of the many pipe termination specials. I have a project in mind for which 25mm pipe would be ideal, but i need 5-way connectors, as well as some simple end teminations that push INTO the pipes not OVER the end. I have googled until my fingertips bleed but can only find this supplier in the UK http://www.ixi-devices.com/index.php/PVC-Structure-Connectors-Fittings-Clamps-and-Kits/View-all-products/Page-7 Frankly the prices are ridiculous - almost 6 times the equivalent US price - what goes for $1 in the states is around £4 in the UK thats just nonsense. Does anyone know any UK or even European outlet that will sell smallish quantities to me in the UK without these prices and without astronomical shipping and import charges? Help please.
Question by Brandlin | last reply
I want to make an extremely strong case for my kindle, the kind of case where I could sit on it and not cause a problem. I'm also worried about the corners of heavy books hitting it right in the middle and breaking it through the case. I have thought about sheet steel, flattened PVC and wood. Wood adds a decent amount of thickness to be rigid enough, and I wouldn't know where to buy thin hardwood planks. PVC I don't believe is all that rigid once it's been turned into flat sheets. Sheet steel is readily and cheaply available on Ebay between 0.18mm (0.007 inches, or 36 gauge) and 1.7mm (0.06 inches, or 15 gauge), and probably higher. I don't care about the weight as much as the thinness and strength/rigidity, so I thought sheet steel might be the best option but I've never worked with it. Suggestions? Edit: I would add some sort of shock protection, ie: neoprene, but it's not dropping that I'm worried about. The design would be two flat pieces sonnected by a fabric "hinge," similar to this: http://www.amazon.com/Marware-Atlas-Kindle-Touch-Cover/dp/B005HSG3L0/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid;=1340375705&sr;=8-6&keywords;=kindle+case I would add raised edges surrounding the Kindle on the "bottom" piece of metal, so that the two pieces wouldn't squeeze the kindle between them when pressure was added.
Question by ballardst | last reply
I have a 12 foot by 24 foot shed that I need to move away from my house, its just too close. I just want to move it about 7 feet and forward. The floor joist are 2"x 6". I want to move the shed North (literately) and the joist are running East/West, thats good so far, as I intend to use 3 pieces of 2" x 10" running the full 24 feet North and South. Now here's the problem... Its heavy and I dont know what I could use to roll it on. I was thinking about using 4" PVC pipe schedule 40 (or 80). I just want some feed back before I do this. Cost is an issue here... dont forget Im doing a " for the poor man " series BloFish
Question by BluTiger | last reply
For the project I am making, I need to make sure there is absolutely no leakage from liquid between sticking 1/2inch pvc pipe into a 2 liter bottle. I need to know how this might be accomplished.
Question by flashanimator | last reply
I'm looking to make a hot wire foam cutter, and have most of the setup all outlined. However, the 'bow' still need to be made, and I plan to use PVC. Reason being is I would like to be able to stick some four/three way bends on one ended as to allow me to stick the bow on a stand of sorts to make a band-saw style hot wire. But, question at hand: if I were to make a frame out of PCB piping for a hotwire, would the tension of the hotwire cause the frame to warp? And if so, what would be an equally cheap option for the frame? Thanks!
Question by DoctorWoo | last reply
I want to make a Super Mario Bros themed inside playground for my kids. I'm basically wanting to construct some type of tubing to make a "warp pipe" tunnel large enough for them to crawl in and out and create a little wooden fort that's painted to look like a castle from the video game that would connect to these hypothetical warp pipes I want to create. I need whatever I am working with to be safe and smooth, non toxic, strong enough to support two kids btwn the ages of 2 and 4 years old & 25 to 35 lbs, and durable yet not so heavy & dense that it would cause injury to my kids if they bumped their heads. I've briefly looked at PVC piping and concrete forms and am a little unsure; would either or both of theses products be suitable for my idea (and do they even come that large)? Or does anyone else have some suggestions? Thank you for your time and any responses.
Question by bellezza11 | last reply
Hello my question is why dose the glue spin when it is dripped in water? I work for a small plumbing and sewer company and I have noticed that every time the glue drips in a puddle it spins on the surface. It is pretty neat and I was curious as to why it dose that.
Question by vince 09 | last reply
I have a pvc bar made from 1 1/2" pvc schedule 40. the longest vertical pieces are 18" or less...I have a fishtank on it a 1/4 full and having 2nd thoughts.. Any guesses,estimates,educated insight on whether this will hold 0hh 450-475lbs ie 50gallon tank minimal gravel and deco plus fish lights etc...I'm still elaning towards I think so but i have a lot of electronics in the same room right now i dont need soaked.... And obviously I'm not holding anyone accountable for their opinion...
Question by needadvice
I have a canopy bed that is made of round wooden poles, varying in diameter from 2 1/2" to 5". I'm really not very fond of the wood grain look and it doesn't match my room at all. I really don't want to paint it because the wood grain will show through and it will look terrible. (In this case, trust me) My original idea was to cover the poles in white heat shrink tubing (similar to what's used for electrical wiring) This idea was squashed because I couldn't find anyone that sells white shrink wrap tubing big enough to be used over 5" poles, and without selling it in a massive bulk. My next idea was to slide furniture grade pvc over it, which would give it a strong, glossy finish. And the wood would basically act as a support for the pvc. But again, I was unsuccessful. This time I came to realize that I can't find anyone who makes furniture grade pvc larger than 2" ID. I'm now drawing a blank. Again, I really don't want to simply paint it, because I don't want the wood grain to show through. I'm sorry, I don't have a picture because the bed is currently disassembled. It's too hideous for me to assemble in my room right now.
Question by gossumx | last reply
I am building a hose extension. I have a garden hose hooked up to the house supply, the hose runs to the back yard where it connects to PVC fittings. The rest of the system is a series of sprinklers too complex to explain here. My question is, should I use glue or plummers tape to make each connection water tight? Thanks!
Question by TXTCLA55 | last reply
I was curious what if i put a 16 cubic ft. chest freezer in my small work building and filled 75 % fullof water . once frozen i could install and 4 inch pvc pipe in one side and then another in the opposite side. On days i would be working in my shop for a few hours if i pushed air through the pipe and recieved cold air out the other side. Wonder how long this would work or would it work at all? Andy
Question by andy1917 | last reply
I have had a couple and for 2 & 300.00 bucks or more, there's really not much to them. It's just a hollow hinged plastic box, made to be a little aerodynamic and strapped to an existing luggage rack. I find it hard to believe that a home made version couldn't be created as sturdy if not sturdier, hold more and last longer. I was thinking maybe pvc, conduit, or even wood framed. Just curious. Thanks in advance for any helpful input.
Question by SAWWAS72 | last reply
I saw yesterday at the animated engine site the co2 engine and really like it , and i would to make it using PVC pipes and wood , but i could not find more details and information for that model i searched a lot (results are other type of co2 engines) so can any body help me for more details and info as patterns and directions to make it. PS: i will mike one piston engine with a compressed air tank (could be a deodorant or gas spray)hhhhh www.animatedengines.com/co2.html
Question by vwtm2006 | last reply
Hi guys i have come across an old 18volt drill. i connected it to some small pvc blades about 12 inches long in the hope of generating some small amount of power. Pointed it into a reasonably stiff breeze but the blades wont turn due to the gears of the drill. Anyone out there got any ideas on how to make this work. is there any way to free the gears so it turns easier or any advice on what size blades would be required to turn the motor. Any suggestions would be appreciated. sam301
Question by sam301 | last reply
I have a couple windsurfers I am trying to come up with ideas of something fun to do with. I tried to make one into a small sailboat with a fixed boat for a friend who was unable to learn to windsurf but the mast was too heavy and flipped over. I am thinking of putting a pvc pipe where the mast went and making a smaller sail. Has anyone tried to make a catamaran out of two windsurfers? Or maybe a trimaran with the windsurf board in the middle?
Topic by volleybiggs | last reply
Looking foward to making a spud gun out of metal, for high psi i know that pcv holds about 40-50 psi i want more bang for the buck EDIT¨: well i whas thinking of making a tube 1" gun of galvanised steel , pvc here is like $ 2-3 usd a tube that has like 2-3 meters, but i tought i could hold more psi in steel and there fore trow stuff at long distance
Question by Bhakto | last reply
Hello everyone, I am new to Instructables and am loving it so far. I was reading through some literature on a piece of equipment we have at work and it requires 18"Hg @ 25CFM. We have flow gauges at work, so it is just a matter of using one to determine the flow but it got me thinking... What is the most effective method of measuring airflow of a vacuum pump without a flow gauge. All I have is an anemometer, a basic understanding of physics and time. So I came up with this method and am looking for some folks to poke holes in it: I placed the anemometer at the end of a 36" piece of PVC with a 1.6" I.D. sealing the anemometer to the PVC to ensure no air gets pulled around the fan of the anemometer. The other end of the pipe is reduced to a 1/4" line (.16" I.D.) which is connected to the vacuum pump. Turning on the vacuum pump yields a steady 3.5MPH (307.98 ft/m)on the anemometer. Doing the math, I come up with 4.3CFM (307.98ft/m*.013962634ft^2). Unfortunately, I cannot bring a gauge home from work to compare and I cannot bring my set up, as glorious as it may be. So this is more a thinking exercise. So what sort of accuracy would you guys think this 'rig' has? Can you think of some method for me to verify it's accuracy (or, more likely, lack thereof)?
Topic by mmcdonald6 | last reply
My friend and I are considering building a spring loaded cannon. The idea right now is to have a pvc pipe for the cannon chamber, and pvc pipes flanking it to hold springs in parallel. A cross-bar will go through all 3 pipes through slits cut long ways in the pipe. The springs will be attached to some point forward in the flanking pipes and to the cross bar, which will be used to pull the springs back and, once released, will launch the dart/ball in the center tube. My research so far - the spring rates of springs loaded in parallel are additive. With 5x 10-in*lb springs, we can produce 667 newtons of force when pulled back 3 inches (springs in question are 5.5 in long) . That will produce an acceleration of 303 m*s^2 on a 1 lb (2.2 kg) albeit for only a fraction of a second. http://www.amazon.com/Extension-Spring-5-625-Long-080-count/dp/B001292S08/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s;=industrial&qid;=1257718057&sr;=1-1 These are the springs we're looking at. We'll need to use an even number of springs, so either 4 or 6 (or 8 or 10). So, what do you guys think? Practical? Will we be able to get any distance? Any suggestions? A ROUGH picture is shown below. === are spring tubes, | are handles, and left arrows indicate direction in which springs will be stretched, and the right arrow is a dart flying out of the center launch tube. <----| ===== XXXXXXXXX ------> ===== <----|
Topic by chs9 | last reply
Hello craftsmen! I like making props and thing from games and media i play, such as Corvo's sword from Dishonored. However, i have a problem with protecting them. After painting them with either acrylic spray or brush paint, I need a clear coat to protect it. I would prefer to use a aerosol paint, due to the ease and lack of smudging it gives. I generally use acrylic paint, either applied by brush or spray cans onto wood, pvc and metal. Does anyone know a good brand or type they use? I would prefer something available in the international markets and in places like dubai, singapore, india, etc. Thanks for reading, and please help!
Question by nerd12 | last reply
I've got a 1/4" copper fitting. I'm looking for a non-conductive adhesive to fill it up halfway, drill and tap it so a spark plug can screw into the end. I was trying to find a nut earlier that would screw onto the end of a spark plug with an o-ring, no luck at the hardware store. I'll probably do the same thing with a few larger sized nuts: fill, drill, tap. And I'm just looking for a decently priced multi-purpose adhesive (non-conductive). And I will be needing a conductive one fairly soon. JBweld seems to be popular in some groups. I don't know if it's non-conductive. It would also be nice if it could adhere to pvc, too. :-)
Question by Vorenus | last reply
Hello everyone, I've come here for some help on designing a PVC-based air tank. I'm planning on building a pneumatic cannon that I can charge once and use to fire multiple short bursts of air. To do I decided to have two tanks -one large tank acting as the main tank and a local tank with a much smaller volume fed by the main. My problem is that I want to squeeze out all the air I can from the main tank, and I'm not entirely sure what the best way to do that would be. My current design uses a spring behind a wooden plunger so that as the volume of compressed air drops, the spring can extend and restore the pressure. (Image attached for clarity) Can anyone spot potential problem areas or places that could be improved?
Topic by Ninja Togo | last reply
Making a pickle boat for the kid. Boat is made out of PVC and 55 gallon plastic barrel. I've got a 49cc two stroke engine laying around I want to throw on it. It's one of those motors that come off a pocket bike or stand up gas scooter. Anyhow, any thoughts on how to use it. I'd like to do a direct drive propulsion setup but I don't know what size propeller I would use. I could make a trolling motor out of it but I don't imagine it would work to well without stalling the motor. I'm sure it would rust out as well. So my questions...... 49cc two stroke motor, what size prop do I use for a propulsion (fan) like setup? If I put it under water, what size prop do I use for that? Links would be amazing. Thanks guys!
Question by svince1884 | last reply
Hello, I would like to make a 3D printer this summer but I have no idea where to begin. I know the basic parts that are required like motors, a motor controller, an extruder, etc... I would like to make a very large printer --- something that prints either a 8x8x8 or a 10x10x10 inch items. I have a very very very tight budget (somewhere around $50) but the good news is that I already own some items that might be able to help. I have an arduino, some batteries, a raspberry pi, some servos, some pvc pipes (with joints), and some pieces of wood. My 64 dollar question is that will windshield wiper motors work? I know that most people use stepper motors but is it possible to obtain the same amount of control on a wiper motor? If you have ever built a 3D printer or know where to find parts for cheap or just have some tips on how to best build it, please let me know. Any help is appreciated. p.s. If it is possible, I would like to have more than 3 axis of movement. Thank You
Question by rptech | last reply
So i have built spudguns in the past and with every new gun i make it gets bigger and better. So i just found pressure rated 3" pvc and im going to use it for a new air chamber. Its a simple end around gun with a piloted sprinkler valve so yea the design is good. Except for one thing. I am enthusiastic enough of a spudgunner to use an air compressor to power it when im at home. but when im at a park or some open feild i bring along a bike pump to pump it up. But with each size up for the air chamber it takes longer and longer and longer to pump. Im not enthusiastic enough to buy a compressed air tank for $60. so what should i do to power it up. i dont have enough room at my house for a distance or height shot and it will take forever to use a bike pump so what should i do. PLESE HELP ME i will try to post pics of it soon HELP ME
Question by ostomesto | last reply
Hi all, I am designing/building a prop ceiling-mounted surgical arm (see reference photos attached) into a 15" concrete slab ceiling for a hospital room set for a tv show. I'm also attaching two sketches of the two different arms I plan on making and I'm hoping some of you clever engineering-types may be able to identify flaws in my schematics before I go too far with the design. If you see something that could pose a danger to the actors or have and alternative suggestion I would be grateful!!! Here are my concerns: 1) what are acceptable stresses on all joints due to weight distribution and actors moving the parts around? 2) the heavy duty industrial casters that tapcon into the ceiling: would they get pried apart as weight is applied gravitationally? 3) can the concrete ceiling handle the live stresses of actors moving the arms? 4) can the horizontal PVC arms handle the weight or do they require a welded metal skeleton? --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Any feedback would be greatly appreciated; I'm in my research phase of this build now so please let me know your thoughts!!! Thanks, Damian
Question by damianzuch | last reply
Hello, I've been thinking lately about moving out to the desert lately and living off the grid with a well, but I'm not sure my base idea for pulling up water from a well will actually work. My idea is to have a line running up from the well (ending in a one way valve) to the bottom of essentially a steel water trough with a glass lip on top making it airtight. A pvc would run from a hole in the top to a water storage tank to move water vapors up there and condense them. My hoped mechanism of action would be as the air heats up in the trough due to the sunlight it would force the water up from the well little by little and evaporate it. My question is, will this actually pull up water from the well or would I have to buy a solar pump? I don't need lots of water fast or high pressure, the water storage will gravity feeds and collect throughout each day. My other idea which I'm pretty sure will work is having the showers, sinks, and washer (using a compost toilet) feed a one way line out to the hotbox too. If as little as 50% of the water makes it back into the lines that way then I will have cut my water usage in half. What does everybody think?
Question by Johanna_W | last reply
This is a project coming soon... But I'm so excited I have to share... I'm beside myself in excitement, in fact.All that's left to finish the project is:1. Recondition a bit more chain and add it on2. Add idlers and get my chain line in order3. Cut excess wood and make a SeatBut after I assembled a crank into some 2x4's - and had to step back and laugh. I've seen it before, in person at the maker faire. But to do it myself and see how easy/simple it is... Ha!So I cobbled that together - made a pseudo tie fighter handle bar from some scrap PVC and two Tees... And rode off into the sunset... Until the chain derailed - and then I realized I couldn't make appreciable low speed turns due to chain routing... Both problems can be fixed with an idler - a solution I've yet to install due to Kinematics homework having a due date of tomorrow.So yeah, this is something I've always wanted to do. And I'm totally happy I did it (and happy I bought those cheap bikes at auction last year :p). AND, the front boom is modular. I intend on making it, and have accommodated for, adjustable. So I can go for more incline and a more aggressive seat position. (mind you, this is a single speed :p).Okay, I'm done venting -- feedback?
Topic by trebuchet03 | last reply
Hi! I just found this site and can imagine I will be spending a lot of time here! What brought me here today is a concern from last winter. I raise chickens and developed a winter watering system that ALMOST works... It involves 80' of PVC piping that is circulated with an aquarium pump and was heated with a bucket heater. The water is stored in a Coleman Cooler. The birds access the water using 10 "Chicken Nipples" (http://www.avianaquamiser.com/chickennipple/) and here in lies the problem. Even though the system flows in cold weather, the small amount of water in the nipple tends to freeze. I imagine I could heat the system more, but I would rather have the heat directly on the nipples to keep them warm. I could use a light bulb on each but I would rather be more efficient. I am hoping for a way to heat a bracket or coil around each one and have it turn on periodically as needed (maybe using a timer and a ThermoCube). All the heat coils I find tend to produce too much heat and I am afraid of melting the plastic around each of the nipples. I have spent countless hours at Home Depot, Radio Shack and electric supply stores trying to solve this. Any help is greatly appreciated! ---Regards Alexander
Question by amagnus | last reply
Hi, im currently doing a project which uses a high volume, low pressure water motor and needs to spray a mist, using little pressure. Essentially what im after is something with the same specs as a regular aerosol can spray nozzle, except it needs to be straight, and made of metal, so it wont dissolve in the petroleum oil, or slip . ive tried using a normal spray nozzle but the pressure is too great and no matter how i go about binding the tube to the nozzle it always pops out, either because it grows soft and warps from the petroleum oil in the spray mix, or from the overal lubricating effects. either way, using spray can spray nozzles is bad. For another project ill be doing at the same time, which is for watering my plants, i still also need a straight spray head, prefferbly made of metal, as this one will have a bit more pressure behind it, and i need to be able to absolutely permanently attach the nozzle to a pvc plastic hose. I dont want to vary at all from my design, or compromise with a plastic version. What im after is a straight spray nozzle, aka, not bent, that sprays a mist of roughly more or less the same size and directionality, and angle as a earosol spray canister. for all intents and purposes, my water motor will be putting out perhaps 2/3rds of the pressure of your typical spray can, a normal spray nozzle works fine, so all im after is a metal equivalent, or anything that wont dissolve in petroleum oils, acetone or paint laquer. does anyone know where i can find such a thing? thanks
Question by oldmanbeefjerky | last reply