3d Printer RESIN

Hi, i'm planning on buying a SLA printer, but i want to be sure that i can get a good amount of resin at a fair price, i found some places but since i'm from Bolivia-Latin America, the shipping and buying from Us Europe or Asia it becomes quite expensive, sometimes like +65% to 80% of the product itself. If someone knows a DIY resin, or some good places that doesn't cost as much per L or Galon plz let me know and share it with everyone else. Anyway, thx a lot for reading and take your time, i hope i can get an answer. 

Topic by pablopcb 

Using resin on duct tape?

So I'm building my first prop and I have a lot of duct tape used... and I mean A LOT, so I was planning on putting a layer of resin on it. But my question is would the resin work with the duct tape or would I have to put another layer of something before I can put the resin.

Question by thatguy2137   |  last reply

How to coat the inside of a bottle with resin? Answered

I recently bought some resin that I was going to test a few prop pieces out with, but, being the space cadet I am, did not pay attention to the volume the resin produces, and I'm now short resin. I can, of course, buy more resin, but I had the idea of kind of cheating and just coating the inside of a coke bottle (the glass ones) with the colored resin and filling it with water to match.  Also, there is more to this. I know I can color water and fill the bottle with that to make a colored bottle. I also know I could color the resin and fill the bottle with that. However, I have an additive that I want to use that is rather pricey, so I would only like to coat the inside of the bottle as to give the illusion it is filled with liquid instead of actually filling it up with liquid. thanks in advance! 

Question by DoctorWoo   |  last reply

What resin should I use?

I have a 1958 Pfaff 332 sewing machine with a broken knob made of bakelite.  Replacement knobs are not available. It occurred  to me that it might be possible to cast a replacement with a different resin.  I have no experience with casting and don't know what kind of resin would be best..  I saw the antique radio knob replacement ible, and liked the idea of using a flexible mold for detail.   This knob  engages  a major cam mechanism and should be fairly strong.  The old knob 'handle'  was broken off when I got the machine. The images of complete knobs are from the web. The complete knob is about 1 inch by two inches.   What  product available in the USA do you recommend? 

Question by mole1   |  last reply

how to make simulated water resin?

Have been using a prod called "Quickwater" to set up branches in small metal dishes.  This product is unavailable & rather expensive.  I think I will eventually need about 2 to 5 gallons for my project.

Question by shellawb   |  last reply

What chemicals can eat through resin

Does anyone know what chemicals can eat through resin? My dad gave me a strobe light which the timing was out on but the electronics were incased in resin so I can't access them. Any help would be useful

Topic by thermoelectric   |  last reply

i'm looking for a good way to make a mold for a resin cast.

I've tried other diy methods such as silicone caulk and Plaster to make molds.  while the plaster was the closest to working it was very difficult to remove the resin from the mold. 

Question by tvane1225   |  last reply

How do I post comments?

I just build a new bar for an American Legion Post. The bar top now is 3/8" red oak flooring with 3 coat of polyurethane.It also has a rail around it 3/4" high. All the veterans here, men and women, want to donate their metals, ribbons and Patches; and embed them in a resin coating. This coat needs to be close to 1/2 " thick. This will be REALLY COOL. Now, I need to know or talk to someone who has worked with resin for advice. Like, can this be done in one pour or 2 or 3 pours? I am prepping everything floatable (ribbons, wood plaques, patches), I am sealing these items with poly to prevent air problems and will be gluing them down. We will only get ONE shot at this; so I would like some advice or help from someone who has worked with this medium. A representative on site would be cool! Thanks. I can be reached by e-mail or cell: 419-699-5546.?

Question by conrailcon   |  last reply

How do I mold resin into a lute?

I've been thinking of making a baliset from Dune (a stringed instrument that involved from the guitar) recently, and in the novel it is made from a resin. Is this possible to do?

Question by Didiniuum   |  last reply

how do i embed an object in a large transparent block (think jeff koons or damien hirst)?

Hi there, if i want to embed an object (say a pair of sneakers or a football) in a square transparent block using a material that i could pour into a mold as a liquid and which would cure relatively slowly as to let a bottom layer begin to dry as one puts the object in so that it won't sink to the bottom, what would be the best option for doing this AND the most cost effective if i wanted to do larger projects? originally, i assumed that fiberglass resin was the only option, but it's VERY expensive ($60+ per cubic foot... or so) and i'm hoping that there may be a more cost effective, easy to use material. thanks in advance, Jeremiah

Question by jeremiah1223   |  last reply

how can i do large scale resin casting?

I am aiming to make a large resin sculpture, First of all, how can i make the mold? the original piece I want to duplicate is made from card board, it is about 4 feet by 4 feet, Could i put the cardboard piece in a tub and then spray expanding foam on it, also what would i put on the cardboard so the foam or what ever wouldn't stick? would i next pour some sort of casting resin in to the mold? Thanks very much

Question by puregoldner   |  last reply

How do I do a Rotational Casting at home?

How Do I rotationally cast a tapering object (a chandelier arm) with resin, at home?

Question by puregoldner   |  last reply

Epoxy Hardener?

I needed to use some Marine-TEX epoxy for a project I'm currently working on, and found that I've misplaced the little vial of hardener. Are there any other hardeners I can use for this epoxy? I've quite the collection of various epoxies and hardeners, but I'm not sure if any other hardener will work with the Marine-TEX epoxy resin. Help anyone?

Question by LiquidLightning   |  last reply

epoxy resin over photos on wooden tray, if i use high gloss photo paper do i need to seal it first. ?

Also, i sprayed the cheap decorative tray with flat black paint, do i need to sand and/or seal it before i add the photos and resin?  if i add about 1/8" of resin, does anyone know how heavy that might be, since i want to make sure it won't give out on the bottom. thanks  

Question by lolas.mima   |  last reply

Can glass WOOL be used instead of a glass MAT in combination with resin to make a cast from something? Answered

I'm planning to make a chair model, which I would then cover in glass mats and resin to make a cast. But I was wondering whether glass wool could be used instead. Does anyone know if this is possible and if so, what resin should be applied?

Question by casvandegoor   |  last reply

Making translucent, glowing cubes. Best shell material choice?

I'm making eight, seamless 15 cm3 cubes that will be translucent and have a glossy finish. They will be lit up (with LEDs, etc.) so the entire cube appears to glow, but there is a base side which will always be on the bottom (it doesn't have to be made of this material.) Sturdiness is desired (they will be in transit at some point), as well as low cost. The solutions I have in mind at this point are: Frosted acrylic/perspex glued together Some form of cloudy resin cast into a single-piece shell I imagine that the resin would have a better overall appearance if it goes well, but it sounds expensive and complicated. The perspex solution may have a less appealing end result due to the edges between each face. Please suggest alternate solutions if you can think of some! Thanks for your help. TK.

Question by T-K   |  last reply

fiberglass for resin forms VS fiberglass for thermal insulation?

I see woven or braided fiberglass (in tube, rope, sheet, band) for use as 1)  a seal where the seal is going to be exposed to high temperature (eg: stove door gasket); 2)  for use as a thermal guard (eg: tubing around electrical wire); 3)  and then used for it's' strength in resin impregnated sheet (egs: roof sheeting; mould making; boat building). My question is whether there's any difference between the fiberglass fabrics available for thermal and resinous uses? Are they interchangable? Fiberglass is fiberglass no?

Question by balisticsquirel   |  last reply

Tips and tricks for UV curing glue, resin and coatings

Only a few years ago your only option to repair certain plastics, glass or even a broken crystal was epoxy based resin or the good old superglue.You might have already tried one of the 5-seconds-repair pens or tried your own UV curing nail polish art at home.For the later you might be lucky as the resins used here are optimised for the purpose and lights you get with them.Sadly even the best nail polish is no substitude for a glue as the material properties need to be different.One of the most common complaints when it comes to using some UV glue, like Kafuter or similar is that it never comes with instructions.Sould be straight forward but it is not free of problems.For example almost all commercail UV curing glues that you can buy require quite stirct procedures and for the light the right wavelenth(s).Resins and coatings can be even more painful here as they might also require you to stick to the correct temperature.Let's start with one thing you might have encountered already...The glue is definately cured and rock hard but the surface tacky and smeary.Quite annoying if you want to fix a piece of jewellery and can't prevent it from collecting dirt and dust...The next thing you might have encountered is that despite having transparent materials it seems to be impossible to cure the clue.Both problems come down to wavelenght and exposure.UV curing glue is prevented from curing in the presence of oxygen - a factor utilised for example in resin based 3D printers.Uncovered glue is exposed to the oxygen in the air and won't cure easy.The glue or resin below this layer however with fully cure with ease in the absence of oxygen.For the second problem consider that not all materials that you can see through will let UVC light pass through ;)Bonding strenght is another complaint I hear a lot...Be aware that certain things just are no good for UV curing glues or resins.Take the molds you get for that purpose: on the material the glue won't bond!Teflon is another prime candidate here.But in a lot of cases it comes down to surface preparation.Don't be afriad to sand the surface!Not only will the surface area increase but the scratch marks will be invisible once filled anyways.Use sandpaper on your fingernails, then go over with clear nail polish -mirror finish ;)With curing often a problem consider to fully cover the glue.A bit of clear sticky tape, food wrapping foil....If that is not an option then eliminate the oxygen.You can use a container filled with inert (for the glue) gas like CO2 or just place a burning candle in it until it goes out....Either way the amount of oxygen should then be low enough to cure the surface of your glue.Not always is any of the above an option.Then you can still try more power and a lover wavelength.Mercury based lamps for example provide a very broad and powerful light that in most cases will cure within seconds.For a proper surface cure you need a wavelength of 265nm or lower.LED's offering this exist but at prices well out of range for the hobby user.A mercury lamp under high pressure is nothing for short term use and the limited lifespan does not always justify the costs of buying them.Like with most things in life certain inventions can have a dual purpose.Quality germicidal lamp systems for examples often state to go as low or even lower than 265nm.And they come at a fraction of the cost you have with a broadband mercury lamp.Even cheaper is the fre weather forecast.If the sun is siad to be strong enough so you need protection than even the worst glue will fully cure in seconds outside in the sun - tackfree!Don't be fooled and protect yourself!!These tiny LED lamps for your glue stick, the curing thingies for your nailpolish and everything else using UV light comes with warnings.For very good reasons!It might be hidden in the fineprint but you can not really see UV light.The blueish-purple glow you see is on the high end of what comes out and by that in the visible range of your eye.Just because a LED only gives a faint glow you see does not mean the UV light wouldn blind you if you could see it!Even worse for fluoroscent lamps or open cruning systems like those for your nailpolish.Reflected UV light is still UV light and you can still NOT see it!Stories of people getting sunburnt from germicidal lamps in a butcher shop or other people going blind from checking money as their living have a true base...In most cases lamps used well past their lifespan or simply the wrong type of lamp but still: the damage came from UVC light...If you just love creating your own artwork or jewellery with UV curing resins and glues than protect yourself.Proper sunglasses with a stated UV protection for example or just black nitrile gloves for your hands...

Topic by Downunder35m 

What is a good option for food grade epoxy/resin?

I'm making some custom mugs out of an old oak that was cut down. I'm looking for something that is food safe and will also hold the bark on the outside of the log. Suggestions?

Question by skotek   |  last reply

how to flatten a soda can?

I have some monster energy drink cans I want to flatten for the top of a table. Kinda like one of those beer cap resin tables if that makes any sense. Anyways, I have cut off the ends of a few soda cans but I cant get them to stay flat. I'll listen to any and all ideas, I'm not afraid to buy some tools. Oh yeah I want to be able to use the design of the cans, most of them are discontinued or rare. Hope I'm not confusing anyone. Have a great day!!

Question by mattthomas992003   |  last reply

Is it possible to make a big acrylic block (as big as 40" * 40" * 40") with resin casting?

I wanna make a big transparent block . It should be really transparent. Can resin casting help in this case? if not, what is the best way to do it?

Question by JavadK7   |  last reply

Can fiberglass cloth take shape before applying resin? Answered

My question is after cutting a fiberglass sheet cloth , can the cloth take shape using ironing spray and some heating before applying resin , because im going to fiberglass a rc boat, but it is very slippery and there is no level between  the fiberglass patches  some details are deformed, so im thinking to put one or two complete sheets that cover every thing then resin it . is it possible?????

Question by vwtm2006   |  last reply

How can I separate the silver 925 content from waste dust from a cutting project?

Ok, I cut sterling (.925) handles off knives sometimes.. the knives are stainless steel and the inside of the handle can be plaster, resin, sawdust..etc.  After using the larger silver part of the handle i have cut off, I still have a pile of silver/plaster/sawdust/resin dust that I really need to separate out the silver from.   Any ideas?

Question by sassquatch62   |  last reply

Help With Creating a Mold for Fiberglass Reproduction

Hi Guys and girls, I am new to fiberglassing. I am working on custom panels on my car. I like to work with clay being artistic and all, I can sculpt out new body panels,diffusers, Spoilers etc. I wanted to make my own panel but not sure how toget a mold created. I am working with OIL BASED clay which does not dry out over time so I would like to keep the clay undamaged from the resins or whatsoever. I want to use fiberglass as my casting. So My question is what can I use to work with my clay? How is the layer process started? What materials what I need? (Easy setup,which Brand Resins with Plenty work Time) This pic is a general idea I have to start Thanks !

Topic by solid25   |  last reply

How can I make cheap honeycomb core boat hulls

I saw a 'How It's Made' episode where they revealed how to make honeycomb core simply by making a paper accordion, expanding it, dipping it in resin then sawing it into cores. I WANT TO DO THAT! They said they used a thermoplastic paper as well as a heat-activated glue. But why couldn't I use a cheaper more readily available material? Does the resin provide ALL the structural strength, or does the thermoplastic paper itself provide the strength? I would assume it's like fiberglass, whereby after it's infused with resin it's super tough... but the fiberglass itself provides strength too... What kind of material could I use for this? Straight up craft paper & elmer's glue? After the cores are cured and cut, I'll sandwich them between various layers of either wood laminate, plastics, fiberglass, or carbon fiber. Thanks!

Question by jmlidea   |  last reply

Help Needed, 3D Printing Via Electroplating

A few years ago I saw a 3D printer that printed using UV reactive resin and a DLP projector and I obviously started thinking about ways to make this for myself. Recently I have been entertaining the idea of repurposing the old CRT technology with phosphors that produce UV light to replace expensive DLP projectors but I couldn't think of an easy way to do that. I was fiddling with various ways of repurposing one of my old CRT monitors when I had a decent idea. Instead of converting electron beams into light to harden resin why don't we harness the electron beams for the purpose of electroplating! Instead of resin we could use an ion solution and build models out of metal! Of course we would still need to replace the phosphors embedded glass screen with a conductive plate to serve as a non-consumable anode. Unfortunately I do not have the time or resources to do this myself so I wanted to post this to the Instructables Community and see If anyone felt this was a worthwhile project.  Please let me know what you think of the idea! I would love to see this turn into an actual project.

Topic by gooeyideas   |  last reply

Homemade Ferrite - what updates do you seek most?

First a massive thank you for the interest in my project - I certainly was expecting this great response! Some might already know my first tutorial on how to make your own ferrite, here: https://www.instructables.com/id/Make-your-own-Ferrite-to-improve-magnetic-fields/ As the muber of followers grow and so the hits on the linked video I was wondering what updates you would most interested in! I want to make some custom pot cores for small HF transformers in the 2-20kHz region. So the question is what new recipe you would like to see... There are several options, all would include some mould making first: Clay as a binder Ceramic as a binder Using some non-hygroscopic salts to melt into the ferrit powder as a binder - all three would require to finnish the parts in a good oven 2K glue or fibreglass resin as a simple dry mix 2K glue or fibreglass resin with vacuum curing to remove all air - this might require special glue as in my experiments resin and glue start boiling long before total vacuum is reached, was thinking of casting resin istead as this would be rated for vacuum preparation From past experiments these are the most likely candidates to result in a good product, if you have other ideas and suggestions post them here. Being a guy that loves to keep things simple and prefering the use of scrap / easy to obtain parts I would obviously love to know where you struggled with your creation of ferrite. I still did not find a good source for rare earth materials in fine powder form to add to the mix but don't think it is an issue as for high performance there are always commercial cores available. Some people asked my what the best was is to make a big toroid core for Rodin coils and other unuasally big cores for transformers. If you are one of them, leave your feedback here as well as the size is only an issue in terms of avoiding cracks during the curing. Let's get the party started! :)

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply

How can I make a hollow, see-through sphere? Answered

This is for an adaptation of a lamp. What I want is to cover the bulb with a large (little smaller than a basketball) sphere, so there will be a hole in one end. Light obviously needs to be able to shine through. My first thought was a resin of some sort, and a quick search led me to epoxy resin. Is this see-through? Can colour be added? Any other ideas? Some early thoughts: - In an inflated balloon, inject liquid. Rotate, thereby distributing fairly evenly, until liquid hardens. Cons: How long do I have to rotate this balloon? What if it pops!? (Could use a hard container...) - Double boiler: Use two similar bowls, small inside larger, fill in between. Cons: How to get it even? Smaller bowl would float (weigh it down...) Not even close to a sphere With your suggestions I'll do a few trials, possibly put out an instructable if something works. All suggestions are welcome (even if they deviate a little). Thanks!

Question by funkrack   |  last reply

would it be possible to bulk up gold flake for scrap ? Answered

Would it be possible to bulk up gold leaf/flake of a high purity with a resin/hardener to scrap ? as the jeweller will take a filing to test  would the bulking agent be minimal to detect  because it not being an alloy/metal ? love a bit of knowledge about this before i buy 30 kg of gold flake/leaf ;-P thanks   MAGIXO

Question by magixo   |  last reply

How would I reinforce cheap plastic toys cheaply?

Without looking at this question, the best answer would probably be to buy a new one, but that doesn't apply here. Well a while back I bought G2 airsoft handgun for me and a couple of friends. Long story-short, they broke. First the mag release broke, then the bottom of the mag itself, then finally an internal part. I reinforced the mag with tape, but I couldn't do much for the internals. Recently, my friend decided to buy another one, a G13, which is a 1911 replica. Problem is that it comes from the same company, Galaxy, so I'm doubting the quality. I haven't been able to get a definite answer, but some people who own the gun believe the internals are made of ABS plastic, which is better than the plastic in the G2.  For the future, I would like to reinforce the internals with a thin layer of something? Off the top of my head, I thought of enamel paint, shellac, and fiberglass resin. I'm not sure if a couple of thin coatings would do anything. I've heard that friendly plastic is very durable as well. I could potentially use that to mold my own renewable internals. But I have no experience with that either, and doubt it could be molded into certain specifications. Any ideas on how to increase durability? I'm not expecting for it to last forever. I just need an extension on its really short lifetime (couple of months).  Looking for a cost-friendly idea.

Question by alester333 

Can anyone help me out with some fiberglass mold making techniques or tips?

I am wanting to do a custom center console and door panels for my Honda Civic out of fiber glass and or carbon fiber, but I am not sure how to go about getting started with making the mold. If anyone could give some advice, tips or techniques I would greatly appreciate it.

Question by dseries16   |  last reply

I need some soldering advice from you guys

Hello Everyone - I am trying to solder a different type of a joint, and I'm having a problem doing it. I am hoping someone here can tell me what I'm doing wrong (or not doing). Here is my problem:I am trying to solder an alligator clip to a 3/16" dia steel rod (I have a picture of this joint, but for some reason, I can't upload it).When I heat up the joint with my propane torch, the alligator clip goes red hot first, and the rod takes a while longer. The rod turns a really dull red, but never as hot as the alligator clip, because the clip is only ~ 0.020" thick. I have a roll of silver bearing resin core solder that I am using. When I apply the solder, it just sorta balls up and won't flow over the metal at all. I end up with a bunch of melted balls of solder on my table, and that's it. I didn't try using any flux, because this solder is resin core. Is there an inexpensive way of doing this ? Does anyone here know a method that works ? thanks in advance, Terry

Question by jw58479   |  last reply

What's a good cost effective way to make a large plastic body/case?

I'm working on a kitchen countertop type of device that would be similar in size and appearance of a large coffee maker. I plan on making around 50 of these for an initial run. Cost is a factor to prove that a profit could be made while not outsourcing the work involved. My goal is to keep this cost below $30 each part, but could go as high as $50. The body will need to be hollow, and has initial dimensions of 18"x12"x8". It does not need to be one piece, several pieces that can be assembled is actually ideal. Here are a few options that I have looked at as well as my concerns... -Injection molding- I worry about the setup costs for equipment let alone the space needed. -Resin casting - I worry about it being too brittle and effectively making workable molds for assembleable parts. -Resin coated foam - I worry about the look of quality as well as the cost of foam. -Vacuum forming - My main concern is the cost of sheet material. I'd appreciate any input, whether it is to add more ideas or to address concerns that I have.

Question by jpettit   |  last reply

What is a moldable material that can be drilled into?

Hi all, I'm a student working on a project, and i've run into a bit of a problem finding a material such as an epoxy or resin that can be molded to fit a groove, and be drilled into once dry. I have a plastic rim that I would like to fill in the grove where the inner tube would normally be.  https://engineering.purdue.edu/ece477/Archive/2008/Spring/S08-Grp12/pics/Wheel01.jpg This picture is similar to the rim we have.  If anyone has any suggestions, they would be greatly appreciated. 

Question by shlockp   |  last reply

wich material or substance shoud i use to mold and make Panpipe

Greeting sorry for my poor english... i want to mold and make panflute like this one: click i'v already made it from wood and molded it with silicon. now, the problem is, since this panflute has contact with lip and mouth, so it shoud be made of a hygienic material wich is harmless for health. this material shoud also have an acoustic mod, like wood or bamboo to some degree. so please tell me wich resin, epoxy or materials shoud  use? cheers

Question by wubian   |  last reply

Hi, where can I learn how to make gold plated metal jewelry with enamel coating?

I´ve been doing jewelry using polymer clay for years, I have examples: http://www.cutesimplestuff.com/2013/06/rose-gold-earrings-polymer-clay.html http://www.cutesimplestuff.com/2015/02/diy-accessories-out-of-polymer-clay.html http://www.cutesimplestuff.com/2015/02/diy-bar-necklace-using-polymer-clay.html http://www.cutesimplestuff.com/2013/06/leaf-necklace.html But now I want to update, and learn how to make gold plated metal jewelry with or without enamel coating, like these gorgeous pieces: http://www.katespade.com/friendship-well-wishes-charm-bangle/WBRUA193,en_US,pd.html http://www.katespade.com/maise-charm/WBRU9977,en_US,pd.html http://www.katespade.com/hashtag-charm/WBRU9964,en_US,pd.html http://www.katespade.com/kiss-and-make-up-wink-necklace/WBRUA012,en_US,pd.html All her jewelry is gorgeous to me, but where can I learn how to make those things? I have my own ideas, but I would like to work with better materials!

Question by CuteSimpleStuff   |  last reply

i'm making a spartan suit. what could i use instead of expensive plastic to fill some of the parts? Answered

I'm making a hayabusa suit with the shutter shoulders and everything and i want to fill them with something but Styrofoam is way too light. everything is already coated with fiberglass resin inside and out. the plastic at michaels is $30 and i was hoping there would be something cheaper or free that i could use to fill the parts instead.also, where could i get some really thick foam? the kind they package the new xbox's in.

Question by jelly.turf   |  last reply

3D Printing Business Question

From reading https://www.instructables.com/community/What-3D-printers-can-do-and-what-they-cant/, this article. It seems as the sky is the limit as long as I have a good artist, a proper 3D modeller and the correct material.  However, I want to start a business whose main focus is 3D printing. What are things, I really can't make? Besides hiring an artist and 3d modeler. What printer would you recommend for the business idea? How many would you recommend as starting point for a small business with an expansive focus? Is there some multiple materials printer that includes glass, plastic, resin, wood, etc.?

Topic by VictorM19   |  last reply

Ember's Mechanical Designs are now Open-Source

We released the mechanical design files for the Autodesk Ember 3D printer in Fusion 360. Here's what I wrote about it on Ember's blog: The full design of Ember in Fusion 360 is now available for you to freely view, download, inspect and modify.  I've been having a blast with the explode model function! We're sharing these designs under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike license, the same license Arduino uses to share their design files. Just like the formulation for our resin, we're explicitly inviting you to understand, remix, and remake Ember.   Ember's Mechanical Designs are now Open-Source

Topic by ewilhelm   |  last reply

Best tool to use to cut off silver-weighted knife handles?

Ok so I have a project from time to time.. I find sterling silver .925/1000 knives that have weighted handles.  Weighted means that the handle of the knife is a covering of silver surrounding a filler (ceramic, plaster, resin, sawdust) and the filler keeps the stainless steel blade in place.   I currently use a Dewalt bench grinder with a abrasive blade attached to slice open the silver handle and then I have to split it open and break out the filler. I have heard of a Diamand bladed tile saw.. I have no experience with one.. any suggestions?

Question by sassquatch62   |  last reply

High-Tech Surfboard Made from Cardboard

Instead of the traditional methods, this surfboard is based on a core that's made up of nearly 400 pieces of cut cardboard that intersects and is then coated with fiberglass and resin. So far it's only a one-off, but more will surely be made.When it came time to replace his old surfboard, Mike Sheldrake decided to build his own. But the former Web programmer didn't have the sculpting skills to carve one out of foam the way professional builders do. So he used 3-D modeling software to design a snap-together deck that's as sturdy as a conventional model and performs just as well, made from the cheapest material he could find: cardboard. link

Topic by fungus amungus   |  last reply

i want to extract the tin from some tinned copper wire. how do i go about doing this?

hello, i would like to know, what the best way would be to separate tin from tinned copper wire. i recently attempted to build a MOT welder and now am left with quite alot of wire, and i require the tin for tin oxide. im wondering, what would i need to do, after i dissolve all the wire in hydrochloric acid, to extract the tin? its my understanding that tin and copper chlorides decompose easily into their oxides, and i only need somewhat pure tin,  as the electrode connector for my MMO titanium mesh (the part which will stick out of the cell which i will connect the cables to), and i only need roughly 70-80% pure tin metal, which i will reduce using my furnace and some pure carbon, in order to get a metal. or would it be ok for me to just melt the metals as is and let them separate in the crucible, and have all the fiberglass and resin just burn off? otherwise, would heating their chlorides (i require a soluble form to filter away resin and fiberglass), yeild tin oxide and not copper oxide, or would weaker acids like carbonic acid be able to dissolve the tin? sorry for all the questions but i really need some tin and i dont wanna blow this one shot i got here! i already have a theory on how this will all work, i just require a second (somewhat) proffesional) opinion. also i am already taking full precautions to ensure i dont get chlorine poisoning, so dont bother with the warnings. thanks.

Question by oldmanbeefjerky   |  last reply

EPOXY CAST OF AN 18" SCULPTURE. How do I make the cast and what material do I use for this heavy final product?

​Hello casting helpers! I would like to make a cast of this angel. The original is about 18" tall. This is a picture of it that I superimposed in this scene. I'm not sure what it will be sitting on since I'm not sure of the cemetery's requirements. Ideally, I'd like to make it look like alabaster, with varying textures of off white and translucent shades. Being that the pour will be heavy, the cast needs to be heavy duty. Also, when taking off the cast, I'd prefer not to harm the original, although that can be done if necessary. It needs to be of a material that will withstand the test of time, hence, I'm thinking that epoxy may be a good medium. If there's something like a JB Weld that is pourable, that would be great. I have installed black epoxy tops in laboratories, a very hard substance. Any suggestions you might have would be very much appreciated. I am in a time crunch, so please let me know AYSC (at your soonest convenience). Thanks so much! I have posted pictures of what I want the final product to look like: https://www.instructables.com/answers/Casting-resin-or-epoxy-in-a-mould/

Question by dwilliamson1   |  last reply

Reviving lawn light solar cells. Answered

Hello All, I have several solar cells from old dead lawn/driveway lights.  Ultimately, I'm sure that it was the rechargeable battery that failed, but the solar cells are in some sorry shape, also. While they have not been tested outside in bright sunlight, in my workshop, shining a high lumen flashlight (unsure of exact output, but it does reflect significant heat to the lighted area) produced less than 600mV.  The rechargeable battery is AA size (1.5 V). The cell faces have heavy oxidation, which is going to block light, I know.  The cell faces are encased in some sort of clear epoxy/resin substance.  The connections are badly corroded, rust is evident around cell connections (which I found strange, but perhaps it dripped down from housing screws).  I know that the connections can be replaced somewhat easily, but what about the oxidation?  Without knowing what material is is encased in, how should I proceed in removing oxidation? No flashlight can compare to the sun, I know this.  But even without a true solar test, I know that these cells will not experience optimal performance.  What can be done to revive these cells? Thank you in advance for any suggestions!!  You all help me learn! Huck

Question by huck alexander   |  last reply

What is the best way to grind glass, somewhat smooth? Answered

Now before you rush to write down an answer let me tell you the details! The chunk of glass is 28 inches wide by 28 inches long and 2.5 inches tall. Composed of 160 painstakingly cut strips of glass that have been glued together into a jumbo block. Now try as I might, when laminating things together of ever so slightly different size together you are going to get high and low spots - And yes, this would have been soooo much easier a job if I had smoothed out the rough edges before laminating - Pesky hind-sight. Unfortunately my planer doesn't seem to work so well on glass, who knew :) Anyway, I will post some pictures to give you an idea of what it is, that has to be ground down. First off • It does not have to be perfectly smooth • A mottled surface would actually be appreciated • It is not going to be a lens of any kind, all though light will be transmitted through it. I have the following tools, but first - No I am not taking it 1700km to have it kilned. No, the local glass shop seems to have less tools then I do, at least in this scale. • Angle grinders • belt sanders • orbital sanders - but really? On the back side I used the angle grinder, with a metal grinding bit. Not to bad really all though the edges were taking a pounding. This was prior to applying resin and woven cloth, to give the glass a bit of tooth and reduce the high edges. This is for an instructable I am working on.  

Question by iminthebathroom   |  last reply

How do I thin out 2-part epoxy?

I'm wanting to make some micarta-like material, using two-part epoxy and paper. I've done a test run, and the material was rigid after it had cured for a few days, but didn't cut like I hoped it would, because the epoxy didn't penetrate the paper. Part of the issue was that the paper was coated, but I'd also like to thin out the epoxy some so that it will soak into the paper better. I'm inspired in this endeavor by these two instructables: https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-make-homemade-micarta/ https://www.instructables.com/id/Mokume-Kireji-DIY-Woodgrain-Composites/ The epoxy I'm using is 3M Scotch-Weld DP-190. The label says it contains epoxy resin, polymeric diamine, kaolin, and carbon black. The complete MSDS is here. This is what I'm using, because it's what I have. Got a case of these two-tube dispensers cheap at a yard sale. :-) So, what can I use to make this more liquid? Right now the consistency is a little bit thicker than honey. It doesn't spread out when applied to paper, and doesn't soak in at all. My limited knowledge suggests that toluene, listed on the MSDS, might work, but I'm hoping for something a bit less volatile. I'm aware that whatever I do is likely to extend the curing time, but that's not necessarily a bad thing.

Question by yoyology   |  last reply

Project VR6

Hello all, thought id share my progress of my 97' VW Golf mk3 VR6 2.8 to create some discussion and VAG banter. I brought her completly standard and wanted to build a real sleeper for road use and track use that is fast, practical for everyday use and safe for the family. When I got her back in 2009 she was a standard vr6 nothing really special just a well looked after example Firstly I gave her a good clean inside and out along with a service.......and by clean i mean really cleaning, shampoo the carpet, treat the leather, clean out the heater units, remove and shampoo the roof lining, polish and resin the paint, de greese and steam clean the engine bay to name some of the bits ive done. The result was a very clean base "template" Once all was clean and I could see areas for imporvement I began the work, replacing all the bushes, front and rear lower arms, brake lines, discs, calipers, exhaust were the easy steps When it came to the engine itself I did not want to mess about with it too much just improve the BHP and general running of the car as 174bhp from a 2.8 VR6 is shocking. So removed the engine and re conditioned the gearbox and clutch. While this was out I thought it best to also do the pull chain not a big job but much easier with everything out, once back in I still was not finished.... After giving the engine a full service with new plugs, leads, coil pack, oil change, rocker cover, inlet manifold, seals, upgraded air filter I decided to get the car chipped to see what BHP could be pulled out of her. Happy to say with all that work she was running on the first dyno 192bhp a massive improvement from standard 174bhp and all that from just replacing and upgrading some standard old parts with more expensive performance parts. Once the Chip was installed and the guys at the tuning store had done their works she was happily chucking out 216.4BHP With that I was more than happy and the work put in over the 6month period really showed. I then decided to have all but bumpers colour coded and did a few minor tweeks to the exterious to make her a clean standard example... I will add a full list of specs and work done soon, enjoy the pics feedback welcome

Topic by Jedi_zombie85   |  last reply

GoPro Scuba Cylinder Mount

Hi there, I'm new here. I've recently found an entry-level 3D online modelling software, Tinkercad and have been Tinkering ever since. I'm into scuba diving and I've long wanted to design a GoPro mount for the cylinder to give a 3rd person view of me while I'm swimming about enjoying life underwater. (Think a less-sexy Lara Croft!) I wanted to run it past you guys to see what you think. I've attached 2 screenshots, because as you can see, the mount I've designed is collapsible, to save space in my GoPro bag. I've done the maths (Pythag) so each side is perfectly lengthed to create a right-angled triangle, with the hypotaneuse (long edge) is facing down my body, towards my feet, so that the camera view won't be obstructed. I've used a Pythag triple, so the arms measure 3", 4", 5". This was done for 2 reasons: a) It was easier to desine using these measurements and b) I don't want it sticking too far up from my cylinder so that it doesn't catch on wildlife/coral/divers. As this is my first GoPro mount that I've designed, I've had to go on deimensions I've found online for the actual hinges. I've settled on approx 3mm for each prong as well as the gap in between. I have actually shaved off .25mm from the middle prong of the 3-pronged-hinge, and left the 2-pronged-hinge at 3mm for the gap and prongs. I'm going to get the pieces 3D-printed by a local service I've found on 3DHubs.com, either in ABS plastic or in resin, though I'll probably go for ABS as it seems to be a bit more hard-wearing, even if it's not so detailed. In terms of mounting it to the tank, I will use 2 headstraps, with the over-the-top strap removed from each one and glue the plastic bits of each of them together, at the correct length of course. I would join them using a seperate piece of plastic and either a hot glue gun, superglue or even some sort of epoxy, whatever lasts longest in prolonged exposure to seawater. I would probably place it nearer the top of the tank, near to where the strap of the BCD jacket goes round it. Does anybody have any advice for me in terms of the design from a functional point of view as well as from whether they think it would actually get a good shot on the camera please? I look forward to your feedback, good or bad!

Topic by JackIsted   |  last reply

Creating copper nano particles

Be it conductive ink, decorations or just a special pigment for your paint project, Copper is nice.Only problem is grinding this soft metal fine enough to be of any good use.A not so well documented feature of food additives is that they often have "unwanted" side effects.In our case E300, Ascorbic Acid or just Vitamin C.So how to make copper nano particles with it you might wonder?Prepare a well saturated solution of Copper Sulphate, you find the blue crystals in the gardening section together with fertilisers.It is best to use destilled water and not plain tap water, if in doubt go at least with the demineralised stuff for batteries.Adding E300 either dissolved in water or directly as crystals will start a nice reaction.The copper solphate is reduced back to metallic copper.There are a few problems though...For best results you need a saturation copper sulphate solution, low temperatures and a magnetic stirrer.This produced the finest particles for me at around 5°C.But even warm or at room temp the constant sirring is beneficial for even particle sizes.The ascorbic acid is used up in the process as well.You can start with a little and see how much you end up with in terms of a layer of copper particles at the bottom.Adding more E300 will cause a "rain" of fine copper particles - once this no longer happens you know the copper sulphate is used up as well.A dark greenish color of the solution will indicate this as well.Getting the copper out of the glass...Keep in mind the copper is extreme fine!As long as it stays in the solution it won't oxidize or otherwise react.Once out and in contact with just water and air oxidation happens quickly, after all it is pure copper...I found removing the watery solution and then adding destilled water to repeat the process is a good start.The waste from the first round can still be usefull though...In the final round I try to remove as much water as I can and then add methyled spirit to prevent the reactions.You can use oil as well or do a quick vacuum drying and store it in a sealed and oxygen free container.What to do with it?As a condictive paint with the right binder it only needs some rubbing with a smooth tool to create a conductive cover with a low resistance.In a clear paint or resin it provides some stunning color effects.You can even dust the dry powder onto a freshly painted surface to get a copper look.Leave without a top coat and you quickly get an old copper or even green look.If you ever wanted extreme fine metal particles you will come up with more ideas...Like shielding or sintering....

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply