I am looking for some 8mm threaded rod , but it needs to have a left handed thread on one side and a right handed thread at the other does this exist, if so, where can i buy it? thanks chris
Question by ooda55 | last reply
Hi everyone, I'm wondering how I could make a motor (with a 4mm shaft diameter) turn a 1/4 in. metal rod. I'm planning on supporting one end of the rod in a piece of wood, and the other of the end will be attached to the motor so that when the motor spins, the rod also spins in the wood.
Question by nelsonliu | last reply
How much would something like that cost and where would be the best place to buy one?
Question by Killer~SafeCracker | last reply
E.g if you have a 3/16 inch threaded rod, will the diameter of the rod exceed the 3/16 inch, or is the rod 3/16 inch regardless of the threading?
Question by astroboy907 | last reply
I live in a house with no closets and bought one of those wire closet racks and ran it across the back of my bedroom. It works but leaves a messy appearance with no doors and I have a wood stove and a dusty farmhouse. I have material for curtains but can't afford a rod of that strength and length. So...whatcha got?
Question by tbcross | last reply
I heard about them, but I thought they were a joke.Then I ran across a link.They actually made gasoline-powered pogo-sticks that even grandpa can ride!It's a single-cylinder engine, with the bouncing foot being connected directly to the piston, called the Hop Rod. There are a bunch of adverts and slightly more modern test-drives in a short video on the site.They're... odd.Still, I wondered. Maybe the Hop Rod provided the inspiration for other wheel-less powered transports?Do you remember those Russian boots? 4 metre strides and speeds of 40kph were promised, but that was 8 years ago. According to The New York Times they fell foul of Soviet secrecy and then Russian financial mis-management.They're still around, waiting for some entrepreneur to hop on the band-wagon...
Topic by Kiteman | last reply
I need to weld a 3/8 inch thick piece of aluminum together. I was wondering if there was a specific rod to be used. I have 2011 1/8 rods. Just putting it out there. I never had to work with aluminum.
Question by unominame | last reply
I want to extend my printers rods by joining 2 together. Is it possible to connect 2 smooth steel rods together without welding for liner bearings to slide over? 8mm rod diameter Want to make the rods 650mm
Question by hkerr | last reply
I need to attach a cable to a steel rod. Right now, the cable is attached to the rod by a loop in the cable and some tape (see photo). I'd like to attach it in a way that is aesthetically cleaner and more robust. I'd like to find a solution that does not involve welding. Any ideas are really appreciated! Thanks!
Question by BillyZac | last reply
I am creating a time-lapse dolly, and at the moment I am working on the drive system. One thought was to use a threaded rod+nut to propel the cart, and I want to look in to this method because it seems fairly versatile. So I would have a taught, fixed threaded rod running through the middle of my 8"x6'x1" track. The cart sits on top of that. I have the motor and the cart pictured below. How can I get this motor to spin a group of nuts (attached to the cart) so that it propels the cart along the threaded rod?
Question by sblaptopman | last reply
If you where to put the same diameter brass rod and iron pipe in a bender, which one would be toughest to bend?
Question by onrust | last reply
I am trying to make a DIY CNC machine, using linear rails and the expert advice in the many awesome instructables out there on this topic. I hit my first roadblock, and I need some help/advice please... The 16mm steel tubes I ordered for the sliding rails wouldn't fit in the 16mm linear slide bearings SCS16LUU that I ordered, they are ever so slightly too big. With a lot of force I could get the rail in the bearing, but it wouldn't slide without extreme force - certainly not the smooth sliding motion it's supposed to be! I've probably ruined the bearings by forcing it in, but I'm not worried about that so much right now (I have spare bearings). I broke out the digital callipers, and the rail diameter measured 16.3mm - that's .3mm more than expected, and more than can fit in the 16.0mm bearings. So now I need to reduce the steel rails by 0.3mm. I have only hand tools at my disposal, and no experience accurately reducing steel rod diameter. I guess another alternative is increasing the slide bearing diameter, but these are sealed bearing units and difficult to get at. Does anyone have any ideas ? Would it be easier to order new steel? Please let me know any thoughts on this, I'm desperate here. Thanks in advance,
Question by srah1 | last reply
Is this a good idea? It goes up to 200 amps. Thanks in advance for your answers
Question by jules15 | last reply
I'm a glass bead maker and silver jewelry maker. I'm trying to braze 308L steel rod to make some jewelry displays. I have had limited success using my regular silver jewelry solders and griffith flux but the joints are weak and easily broken. I have a torch but I need to know which filler material to use and which flux I should buy for it. So far I've been unable to fathom it out. Sadie
Question by sadiesjewels | last reply
I got some threaded rods today. They look straight. 16 threads per inch. The tag on one of the shorter ones says 3/8" - 16x36", course threads, zinc plated 1700lb. I was planning to use these for the x,y,z control for a 3d miller/printer. I realize it may be slow. Someone mentioned that the McWire repstrap uses a 4 1/20 (the only part I understand is 20 threads per inch) was really slow, but someone made it work with 2 1/16. I did not really have plans to attempt position verification because I think the resistance vs torque should be minimal for a threaded rod setup. I figure I could get away with just sending it specific pulses for a specific amount of time. Could I have some feedback on this?
Topic by nstenzel | last reply
Hi All, I need to hollow out rectangular cuts into thousands of dowel rods. Is there a high end tool(s) that would make this a quick task so I could knock out at least 10 an hour? Or are there companies who provide custom wood pieces in bulk at a reasonable price? Thoughts! Thanks all!!
Question by barbaracj | last reply
Hi friends, I want to heat a aluminum rod by kanthal wire. I want to wrap the wire directly only aluminum rod(it means the wire and rod touches). I want to know, is it possible or the contact between these materials make short circuit? Please answer for it.
Question by Gnanak | last reply
Picture a threaded rod, with a hex nut on it. The rod is inside a hollow tube. You move the nut down the rod by inserting an outside hex wrench into the hollow tube from the top. But what if you only have access to the rod from the side, through a hole in the tube (which is fixed and can't rotate around the rod)? Is there a way to tighten a nut down a threaded rod from the side through a hole in a tube? Context: the application would be a grip for a fencing weapon. The base of the blade of a fencing weapon turns into a threaded rod (the tang). The bell guard (metal disc to protect your hand) has a hole in the middle, and is inserted onto the tang. The standard grip is a straight tube-ish thing (usually solid except for a hole the diameter of the tang). You stick the tang through the central hole in the grip. Then you stick a nut on the end of the tang (which just extends beyond the end of the grip) and tighten the whole assembly down. Some special grips are curved, which means that you have to bend the tang in a curve to match the grip first in order to fit it onto the tang. Another kind of grip is straight and hollow, with a plate with a central hole over the end butting against the bell guard, to give the nut a surface to press against, and the tang is cut much shorter than the grip, and you tighten the grip with an outside hex wrench from the back end of it, as I described initially. The advantage is that a shorter tang weighs a lot less, and the weight savings can be really good in fencing. I want to combine the advantages of these two types of grips- a curved grip, which is hollow and lightweight, with a tang that is shorter than the grip itself. Obviously, it would be impossible to tighten the hex nut through a curved grip, hence my question.
Question by KattB5 | last reply
Hi everyone I wanted to attach 14 mm ball bearings to 5mm threaded rod but I notice I can't get them perpendicular to the rod and parallel to each other resulting in a massive wobbling... Can you please help me figuring what am I doing wrong? I wanted to create a miniature table saw attached to a drill or other motor. The bearings would keep the blade attached to the plate. I've uploaded pictures I hope can help figuring it out. Thank you, everybody for your help!
Question by jaypal | last reply
Hi All, I need to create a slot as shown in the attached graphic. It needs to be precise and repeatable - ideally in one pass. I have these tools that might help... Lathe Drill Router Grinder I don't have a mill which is what I think I need. Any suggestions? Thanks, Marc P.S. The squared corners at the top of the slot are not required. They can be round (such as would be created by a drill bit or other rotating tool).
Question by makermarc | last reply
Okay; two questions regarding electrolysis. What should i use as an electrolyte? When I used salt, I got Hydrogen and Chlorine, and I want Hydrogen and Oxygen. Next, What should I use for my anode and cathode? I've heard of carbon rods and titanium rods, but i don't know where to get them from.?
Question by Ryan Cooper | last reply
I drilled a 3/8 size hole, taped it with a 10 x 0.5 mm plug tap. Than die taped a 10 mm size rod with a 10 x 0.5 die. I did it all on the drill press so it is at a 90 degree angle. The problem I am having is: The Rod is a little loose in the threaded hole, It won't slip out it is just loose. So why is this?
Question by silenus | last reply
I'm building an aluminium frame for a radio controlled car. Will JB weld be strong enough to join the individual rods, and handle a few crashes and rolls? Also the general stresses from acceleration etc. I've got some low temperature welding rods and a blowtorch but having huge problems with adhesion and flow to even get started with a join.
Question by fiyero666 | last reply
I am trying to design, what will essentially be a very specific miter box / saw guide for a hand saw. Here is a product on the market that is almost exactly what I am trying to build. The only difference between what I need to build and this miter box, is that the miter box from that link cuts at a 90-degree angle to the workpiece being sawn, whereas I need to saw boards at angles much more acute than 90-degrees. There are commercially available adjustable miter-boxes, such as this one, that allow you to set whatever angle you need, and it will still guide the saw straight. However, they are made for cutting baseboards and molding, so the angle-range is only 90-degrees to ~40-degrees or so. I am cutting wooden boards for making, "scarf joints". So, I need to saw through 4" thick boards at an 11-17 degree angle. Where the above miter box saws perpendicular to the board it is sawing, the one that I am building, at 11-17 degrees, will be closer to cutting parallel. The housing, I think I can cobble together from angle aluminum and hardwood. However, I haven't bought ball bearings since I was a kid riding skateboards. I was hoping to take a threaded rod and push it through the hole in some bearings, then use some spacers and/or washers to space them apart, and secure the whole bearings/spacer/bearings sandwich with some washers and nuts. I do not live near a place that actually sells bearings much less carries bearing and threaded rod in the same store. Therefore, I cannot try it all out right there in the store. So I am going to have to order the bearings and the threaded rod off the internet. I need bearing where... Heavy load is not an issueHow fast they spin is also a non-issue.But that are...Shielded from the sawdust (do not have to watertight)Fit snuggly on a threaded rod and not rattle around. A loose guide-bearing isn't much of a guide, eh?Would one of you fine gentlemen help me by pointing to where I can buy 16-20 bearings, a threaded rod that will definitely fit them, and some .50 - .75" spacers (metal or nylon) that will also fit the bearings?
Question by Dolmetscher007 | last reply
I bought a book from Home Depot to learn about household wiring: http://www.amazon.com/Wiring-Complete-Editors-Creative-Homeowner/dp/1580111602/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s;=books&qid;=1279657048&sr;=1-1 On pg. 238, about lightning protection systems, it says, "...these instructions are for copper only-do not use copper with aluminum." Why shouldn't we use copper components with aluminum? It's essentially just a couple of lightning rods and a cable leading to a ground rod. I can scan the page if you'd like to read it. They made it sound fairly important.
Question by Vorenus | last reply
Hi, im looking for some help with a physics/engineering type problem. Im looking for the most effective method of tranfering a mechanical force from one direction to another. For example if i had a 1" horizontal rod struck on its east face which then begins to travel westward on a fixed horizontal track, im looking for a method of transfering the energy (not sure if thats the right word) in the opposite direction. A few important factors are that the rod which is struck does need to travel around 4 inches on the fixed rail, and any vertical movement needs to be kept to a minimum. Below is one of my early ideas, serves little pupose as the mechinism is too large but gives you the jist of what im talking about.
Question by Squibo | last reply
Hello Everyone - I am trying to solder a different type of a joint, and I'm having a problem doing it. I am hoping someone here can tell me what I'm doing wrong (or not doing). Here is my problem:I am trying to solder an alligator clip to a 3/16" dia steel rod (I have a picture of this joint, but for some reason, I can't upload it).When I heat up the joint with my propane torch, the alligator clip goes red hot first, and the rod takes a while longer. The rod turns a really dull red, but never as hot as the alligator clip, because the clip is only ~ 0.020" thick. I have a roll of silver bearing resin core solder that I am using. When I apply the solder, it just sorta balls up and won't flow over the metal at all. I end up with a bunch of melted balls of solder on my table, and that's it. I didn't try using any flux, because this solder is resin core. Is there an inexpensive way of doing this ? Does anyone here know a method that works ? thanks in advance, Terry
Question by jw58479 | last reply
Forgive my ignorance but I was wondering if a sparkler could be used as a heat source for something like soldering or melting small quantities of aluminum? I could use something to bead up the end of a brass rod too. Any idea if that could work?
Question by paqrat | last reply
I am wondering if I expose plants to Neutron radiation and carefully burn them afterwords.at 500 deg C is this safe and more importantly is it Legal?? I plan to use a 4% thorium Rod (Welding Rod). What about Beta and gamma radiation is this Legal. I heard on youtube it is as long as you Properly dispose of the seeds. I did a similar Project with clover a few cm away from a total of 20,000 volts 35 mA power supply and dosages above 400 volts per meter squared killed the clover plants very quickly. I sterilized the soil and seeds with bleach and incinerate it with High heat 500-600 degrees C. I washed by draining most of the bleach out of the seeds.
Topic by SHOE0007 | last reply
After a decent search, i haven't come up with much. So, does anyone know if i can put fiberglass into clay to make it stronger after firing? or would it re-melt into a bunch of tiny glass rods with no structural integrity?
Question by kretzlord | last reply
umm, i was resently being bored with an arc welder (not a safe thing) and amzed to find that if you put enough energy into a normal red brick that it will chemicly start to decompose, it left a large area missing and with a grey almost glass like surface in the area with the most abuse, (this i can understand) the thing that i found that was odd about this was when i lookd at the small colection of metal that formed when it cooled, the main thing in it is iron (i was using an arc welder with normal rods and an iron rod) but i appears to have an almost flaking metal surounding it, its not impusitys that u normal get when weldin, it has an irridesent purple colour to it and is problaby made up from something in the brick. any ideas?
Question by thelastonekills | last reply
I need plans on building a sturdy double carport. I purchased one of those HD packages made with metal rods and vinyl top but I am afraid it will be too flimsy and think I can invest that money in the material for a DIY if I can find a good inexpensive plan. Thanks for the help.
Question by kcgirlintx | last reply
I want to make tungsten rods in colors. As it is possible to have titanium in MANY colors by simple variation of the thickness of oxide-layer, i wonder if the same is possible with tungsten. Somebody tried it already? What are the voltage-ranges for nice colors?As references:https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-EASILY-Ano...https://www.reddit.com/r/pics/comments/99sdse/the_...https://www.wikihow.com/Color-Titanium
Question by Orngrimm | last reply
Seriously, I had this idea the other night when it was really stormy and lighting out like crazy. Why can't they make large collection centers for lightning, kinda like a leyden jar in principle, with a humongous lightning rod to attract lightning? Lightning is absolutely free, if it was harnessed to power our cities, at least some of them, it would be so awesome! No pollution, no cost to produce, other than construction and maintainance of the facility. You could just plug it into the existing power lines, with some massive step-down transformers of course. So why don't they do this, at least experimentally? Lightning is unpredictable, you say. No problemo, you put this collection thingie in an area where there are a lot of storms, and add a lightning rod-a BIG lightning rod. It's very dangerous, you say. So make it completely automated, no humans required, and put it away from residential and business areas. You say lightning is much too powerful. Nonsense, you can make a big enough facility to contain it. You say I've gone off my rocker...you may have a point there... I know it must be dumb, and have a flaw I am not seeing-do any of you science experts know what it is? Why won't this idea work?
Topic by Lithium Rain | last reply
Wanted to try how far the magnetic field of my new stirrer is reaching and observes something weird...If you have a normal stirring rod in a beaker then these things do excatly what they are supposed to.Even if you try to add the rodd to an empty beaker while the stirrer is already running.The first option gives you a nice rotation, the later often just some jumping and bouncing rod.Fun fact though: Inside a stirrer rotates a magnet and the rod is just a steel bar enclosed in polyethylen or teflon.Trying to make a stirring rod roll around the center instead of rotating is next to impossible - it always tries to use the max binding force and centers itself.So I tried different things for the end goal of designing a stand up stirring twoer instead.You know, like these fancy ones found in huge water towers to agitate the water.I found a small steel ball with two magnets attached quite interesting but an accident made me wonder...For some reason I did not turn the stirrer fully off when searching my little box of goodies for new stuff to try.A small spring for some motor bushes landed on the stirrer...And although it moved dead center it did not spin at all.A slight vibration was all I could see.First weird behaviur happen when I tried to move the spring around to check why it is not spinning.Pushing it a bit lengthwise suddenly made it spin!A bit of fiddling a trying showed it works best slightly off center to the magnet with one end while sitting on the radius.The spring rotated like a horizontal drill but in no relation to the stirring speed.Second and even weirder things happened when the spring slipped through my fingers.It started to roll around the center of the plate but in the opposite direction to the magnets rotattion!An increase in speed made it roll faster until the g forces made it fly off the plate.If you have a magnetic stirrer then try it out one day.I have a few theories why the spring starts to rotate or roll but none make fully sense.Can try to take a video for those with no stirrer but for the fun of it it might be good to just mount a magnet on a motor and try LOL
Topic by Downunder35m
I have never worked with motors before, and I am starting to realize that there are dozens if not hundreds of different types of motors. Imagine two 6" long, 1/2" dia. aluminum rods suspended between two pieces or trapezoidal shaped plywood that are secured to a base and braced to make this whole structure rigid. on these two aluminum rods "rides" a small carriage that is literally just a small 2" x 2" platform made from... whatever... 1/4" plywood. This carriage can slide left and right on these two aluminum rods. I need a motor that can somehow move this little platform left and right, back and forth, only between 1/8" to 1". I need to be able to control the speed (rate) at which is travels this small distance.I also need to be able to control the starting point and the end (return) point. Basically, I and transferring string from one spool to another. So the platform will have a spool of thread on it, and it will be going left-to-right while another spool is turning. The left-to-right movement will be coordinated with the speed that the second spool is wrapping (turning) so that the thread windes as close to "perfectly" in layers. And each spool will be between 1/8 - 1/4 - up to 1" wide. This is why I need to be able to set the starting point, and the end point where it will stop and reverse direction. I will be controlling this with a project board like an Arduino. I just need to know what kind of motor to look for, and any other suggestionsThanks guys!
Topic by Dolmetscher007 | last reply
I would like to figure out an inexpensive and discreet way to attach a smartphone to the wall or floor (not directly - slightly set apart with e.g a rod or a lead), in a way that it is secure, and can't be easily stolen. The phone will be used as a display screen and will be resting on top of something, so needs to be relatively manouvreable. I have access to a laser cutter / clear perspex / workshop tools / ebay.
Question by CassiaD | last reply
Dear All I would like to imitate for to build a bar go up and down in angle 90 degrees at website: - http://www.alivola.it/00-CLOHE-EN-oscillating-lever-1.htm ( oscillating lever 1 : animation ) So please help me to know how calculator to find point C ( CRANK 15mm) for the rod go up and down in angle 90 degrees .Many thank you Best regards lam
Question by lam | last reply
I have been trying to figure out how to put an independent suspension on a Huge scale RC. What I have noticed on large cars is that unlike small RC cars the rod going from the dif to the wheels is solid and can't extend/shrink. Why doesn't this bind up? I have also noticed that for some reason they don't line the suspension up to move exactly up and down. The wheel's pitch is actually set up to change as the suspension depresses.
Question by jj.inc | last reply
This brass item is about 30 cm tall. It is hollow throughout. The narrow top has a thread on the inside, as though something should be screwed into it. It is solid brass and has curves progressing from larger to small, bottom to top. My best guess is that it might be a final from a curtain rod or that it belongs to a hookah pipe, but I can't find anything similar on websites. Help please.
Question by Brassfan | last reply
I need to cut a (roughly) 3mm keyway in a piece of 10mm brass rod and I don't have access to a mill. I do have access to most hand tools, though. Can anyone recommend a way I can cut the keyway? I'm not too fussed about accuracy, as long as its within +/- 1.5mm of the nominal width I'm happy. Also, if it matters, it will be about 5mm deep.
Question by the_mad_man | last reply
Its a pull start ride-on and its carborator i believe is be fine i cleaned it and it worked before it has spark and it has not run for a year but recently i got it started and i was riding it around having a blast then my friend took it for a joyride and held down the governor rod too long so ever since then it wouldn't start and it has compression but it sounds funny it like puffs out air after each pull plz plz help thanks
Question by iracetractors | last reply
I am wanting to wire up a door to my hen house that will open in the AM and close in the PM. I have a 12V DC powered cordless drill motor and a digital timer. Can you help me on what I need to make this all work as far as switches, relay, etc. and possibly give me some guidance on how to wire it up? Just so you know, I have very limited electrical experience. Thank you. Rod
Question by dobecool | last reply
I want to use my TV as a monitor as well. But I need it to height adjust on the wall about two feet, for the two different uses. No pre-made brackets that do this...any idea what to use to build it? I'm assuming that it would be a flat screen bracket that can slide up and down on some sort of rod or pole secured to the wall. Not sure what system to use to be able to secure it at the two different heights. It's a 22".... It seems a waste to not be able to use it for both and clear out the monitor I have now. Any suggestions are appreciated.
Question by mikimouse11 | last reply
Hello, "Somebody" tried to steal my truck last night. He/They broke sliding rear window and destroyed the ignition switch on my poor truck. He/They bent the rod that goes to the "Steering Switch Harness". So I can Replace the whole steering column, or make a "Hidden key-less push-button ignition switch" But I don't know the wiring pin-out of the steering harness. I desperately need help with this. Thanks for reading and Helping. Also any creative suggestion will be appreciated. Mr. Lunna Xiii
Topic by mrlunna13 | last reply
We're rolling out some new parts for the Kits in 123D Design. That means you'll soon have some real-world models at your disposal in the Design app, and I wanted to see if there were some specific requests out there for parts that you might use on the regular. I've put in for some tools and hardware - like metric and SAE wrenches and hex bolts - but is there anything that you'd like to see as a part or a template? M4 screws for an Arduino enclosure? 4" 2-way gate hinges? Eye-Hooks? Light bulbs? Threaded rod? Phone cases?
Topic by andrewt | last reply
Must have: mass- 45.0 grams or less length- must be longer than 38.0 centimeters (2.0 cm by 2.0 cm square rod must be able to pass through full length of roadway surface) height & depth- can't extend more than 12.0 cm above test support surface and 10.0 cm below it. roadway- will support 100lbs load, cannot be more than 2.0 cm above test support surface BRIDGES CAN'T BE WEDGED INTO SUPPORTS) someone please help, i'm stuck!
Question by erikabixby | last reply