I would like to permanently stain all of a knife or a portion of the blade. Does anyone have any recommendations.
Question by WazIt | last reply
I will be preping the hull with wire brush & Needle descaler , cut and grind V for patches.
Question by Joe Pryor | last reply
Theoretically, could it be possible to mix titanium and steel and get the best of both? Let’s just assume that cost and difficulty are not an issue? Imagine the possible uses for a metal that was non-magnetic, non-conductive, corrosion resistant, and with a great strength to weight ratio, while being as hard as tempered steel. For one thing, it make a fantistic knife. So, the question is; Would it be possible.
Question by black hole | last reply
How much would something like that cost and where would be the best place to buy one?
Question by Killer~SafeCracker | last reply
I am trying to make a DIY CNC machine, using linear rails and the expert advice in the many awesome instructables out there on this topic. I hit my first roadblock, and I need some help/advice please... The 16mm steel tubes I ordered for the sliding rails wouldn't fit in the 16mm linear slide bearings SCS16LUU that I ordered, they are ever so slightly too big. With a lot of force I could get the rail in the bearing, but it wouldn't slide without extreme force - certainly not the smooth sliding motion it's supposed to be! I've probably ruined the bearings by forcing it in, but I'm not worried about that so much right now (I have spare bearings). I broke out the digital callipers, and the rail diameter measured 16.3mm - that's .3mm more than expected, and more than can fit in the 16.0mm bearings. So now I need to reduce the steel rails by 0.3mm. I have only hand tools at my disposal, and no experience accurately reducing steel rod diameter. I guess another alternative is increasing the slide bearing diameter, but these are sealed bearing units and difficult to get at. Does anyone have any ideas ? Would it be easier to order new steel? Please let me know any thoughts on this, I'm desperate here. Thanks in advance,
Question by srah1 | last reply
I am going to glue some synthetic leather (vynahide) to a piece of stainless steel. What type of adhesive should I use? Preferably water proof. Sorry I can't go into details, it's a project I'm working on for a contest. Help much appreciated! :)
Question by Xuthal | last reply
I've bought and cut some lengths of mild steel tube to make chimes for a doorbell. Mild steel has a nice ring to it, which is why I bought it instead of aluminium, but it has already started rusting, so I was thinking of tinning the tube before I build the whole thing. My question is mainly how to clean it properly before I tin it. The outside I can do with wire wool but not the inside. I was thinking of just using vinegar to etch away the rust and then give it a good wash before putting it in the tinning solution. Is this likely to work ok? Also any tips on the actual tinning process would be useful. As far as I know you just make up the solution and then put the tube in it for a set amount of time, but I've never done it before, so it would be good to hear from someone who's tried this.
Question by ganglion | last reply
I ran into a glitch in rehabing an old park bench. The wooden slats were rotted out, so I'm saving the wrought iron end frames and fitting them with new poplar slats. I included a mid-project picture below of one of the end frames. I don't know if you can notice from the picture, the holes in the frame for mounting the slats were not in a straight line, but rather haphazardly. So each board needs to be custom-drilled to match the mounting holes in the frames. Problem is, I originally measured the distance between the bolts on one of the old slats and used that measurement to drill ALL the new (expensive) hardwood boards. I had made the careless assumption that the holes in the frames would be in a straight line. Never assume good workmanship! After drilling the slats, I applied about 5 coats of clear urethane spar varnish. The new slats look supreme, and I don't want to zorkk them up by drilling a second hole in each board to match the stupid end frames. So the only way out of the quagmire I can see is to drill the frame to match the boards. OK! Problem is, most of the new holes in the frames would intersect the old holes, and I know that drilling an intersecting hole is problematic, especially in 3/16" steel. So I need advice on how to stretch holes in steel into an oval shape. I'm thinking some sort of router bit, or a grinding bit that I could use with a hand drill. Suggestions? Thanks.
Question by LesB | last reply
I know i need high carbon steel and a nickel alloy steel but what kind is the best to get??
Question by Don,t try this at home | last reply
is it possible to solder a round 8 mm aluminium tube to a 1,5mm steel plate. i tried using glue but did not holde...? see picture,. are there some weld that may woork??
Question by sabladask | last reply
I'm a glass bead maker and silver jewelry maker. I'm trying to braze 308L steel rod to make some jewelry displays. I have had limited success using my regular silver jewelry solders and griffith flux but the joints are weak and easily broken. I have a torch but I need to know which filler material to use and which flux I should buy for it. So far I've been unable to fathom it out. Sadie
Question by sadiesjewels | last reply
I have an old steel toolbox that's been spray painted. I'd like to strip the paint off in the most efficient (and cost-effective) way possible. What say you, Instructables' Smart People?
Question by bajablue | last reply
I want to make an extremely strong case for my kindle, the kind of case where I could sit on it and not cause a problem. I'm also worried about the corners of heavy books hitting it right in the middle and breaking it through the case. I have thought about sheet steel, flattened PVC and wood. Wood adds a decent amount of thickness to be rigid enough, and I wouldn't know where to buy thin hardwood planks. PVC I don't believe is all that rigid once it's been turned into flat sheets. Sheet steel is readily and cheaply available on Ebay between 0.18mm (0.007 inches, or 36 gauge) and 1.7mm (0.06 inches, or 15 gauge), and probably higher. I don't care about the weight as much as the thinness and strength/rigidity, so I thought sheet steel might be the best option but I've never worked with it. Suggestions? Edit: I would add some sort of shock protection, ie: neoprene, but it's not dropping that I'm worried about. The design would be two flat pieces sonnected by a fabric "hinge," similar to this: http://www.amazon.com/Marware-Atlas-Kindle-Touch-Cover/dp/B005HSG3L0/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid;=1340375705&sr;=8-6&keywords;=kindle+case I would add raised edges surrounding the Kindle on the "bottom" piece of metal, so that the two pieces wouldn't squeeze the kindle between them when pressure was added.
Question by ballardst | last reply
Mt friends have found plans to build a forge, and we have all the parts to build it EXCEPT for non-galvanized steel pipe. Because the pipe will be heated up, we cannot use galvanized steel pipe as the zinc used in the galvanization process produces deadly fumes when heated up. We have checked stores such as Home Depot, and Lowes, but neither one has what we need. Does anyone know where (and if), we can get non-galvanized steel pipe? Any help is appreciated, thanks.
Question by Philisawesome | last reply
Looking foward to making a spud gun out of metal, for high psi i know that pcv holds about 40-50 psi i want more bang for the buck EDIT¨: well i whas thinking of making a tube 1" gun of galvanised steel , pvc here is like $ 2-3 usd a tube that has like 2-3 meters, but i tought i could hold more psi in steel and there fore trow stuff at long distance
Question by Bhakto | last reply
How can I straighten a warped [in y-z axis, 48" axis o.k.] 6"x48" - 3/8" plate low carbon steel? I've tried heat straightening and hammering but have made one section flat and another worse?
Question by GreatCthulhu | last reply
I'd like to reshape, attach, and make some art out of some stainless steel bowls [http://bit.ly/IgeDXA]. I've naught a clue how to approach the issue of connecting them, since they are so thin, and I'm not too sure what sort of connecting material I could use. (Would regular solder work, or would I need a specific kind?) I've only ever soldered a bunch of wires, and advice on this would be great since I'm going off the deep end into uncharted territory. Thanks!
Question by J-Manoo7 | last reply
My brother recently gave me 20 1 inch diameter steel balls that he was trying to use to cool down coffee without watering it down (in hindsight, aluminum has a much higher heat density, but that's beside the point). I've had them laying around for a while now, and apart from a big newton's cradle or maybe a huge marble machine, I can't think of anything to do with them. ideas?
Question by codongolev | last reply
Does anyone have experience making a magnetostrictive driver that can excite longitudinal vibes on a ferromagnetic string under tension or making a Sensor (Valeri effect) for same?
Topic by herb_fox | last reply
I'm trying to build a "on body" harness rig and I need to find some sort of joint connector that allows the steel tube to rotate up and down. It should rotate like a beach chair or the lid on a laptop, but I need it to lock in place where ever I stop rotating it. The circumference of the steel tubing is about the circumference of a finger. The steel is also lightweight and almost feels like aluminum. Does anyone know where would I find a steel tube joint connector that would do the trick?
Question by steelofreeka | last reply
I want to extend my printers rods by joining 2 together. Is it possible to connect 2 smooth steel rods together without welding for liner bearings to slide over? 8mm rod diameter Want to make the rods 650mm
Question by hkerr | last reply
I need to attach a cable to a steel rod. Right now, the cable is attached to the rod by a loop in the cable and some tape (see photo). I'd like to attach it in a way that is aesthetically cleaner and more robust. I'd like to find a solution that does not involve welding. Any ideas are really appreciated! Thanks!
Question by BillyZac | last reply
I am looking for thin stainless steel sheets to use as the electrodes for an oxyHydrogen producing "dry cell" set up to power a welding / cutting torch. It should be in sheets that can be evenly devided into 6 inch squares. I am not sure what alloy it has to be so if you know about stainless steel alloys I would love advice. The electrolyte will be NaOH, and it will probably run at 120V AC at as many amps as it will draw but I might put in one of those light dimmer knobs to control it a little.
Question by Jaycub | last reply
I have 2 pieces of aluminum that make up a kind of finger hinge. The two sections are each 3/4" wide pipe each ending in finger joints with a hole drilled through the fingers. A cotter pin has been used as the hinge pin during the mock up, but now a permanent hinge pin is required and due to space regulations it must be very flush and end on either side with a flat round, similar to a nails head (striking surface). I was going to merely insert a nail, then put a tightly fitting washer over the other end, and briefly mig weld the end of the nail protruding through the washer too the washer. The opposite end will have a small thin piece of cardboard as a temporary spacer to ensure a snug but not too tight of fit. Of course the rest of the aluminum will be shielded from weld spatter. The weld would then be ground flush. There will not be a lot of tension put on this weld, but some minor vibration. There will 5 of these pipe section with 3 joints per section each, they will be very close together and require the ability to move independently from each other, so no shared pins. Will a very brief weld cause the pin/nail to heat up to a point that it causes the surrounding aluminum to melt and "horribly" cause the 2 joints to fuse? The 3/4 span is much to wide for a pop rivet and would have to much of a bump on the sides. Bolt and nut would also have to much of a bump, and introduces the destructive effects of a steel thread running through an aluminum body. Philadelphia screws are just too wide for this application Actually peening a real rivet will put to much stress on the aluminum pieces. No I do not have the means to weld aluminum, as this is a solder core wire feed welder, not a true mig. Any suggestions? I have done similar welds before, but all pieces were steel, not mixed.
Question by iminthebathroom | last reply
Question by unominame | last reply
I need to bend a steel wire that's about a little less than a half of a centimeter thick. The bend needs to be very clean, and I don't have a heat source. How can I do it?
Question by Cowburger43 | last reply
I'm looking to solder the flat ends of nails together to create a crown of nails (headpiece) is solder capable of holding together steel nails in that fashion? If so will they be stuck together well enough to create a relatively heavy headpiece meant to be worn? (approximately 1000 nails)
Question by phichi | last reply
Gas pipe (steel bought in plumbing with threaded ends) is pretty commonly used for shelving because you can get threaded pieces, joints, flanges, etc easily and it's incredibly strong....but it is too expensive and way stronger than I need. I haven't been able to find good fittings for EMT conduit, and I'm considering ordering a custom made batch of them from a manufacturer but I wanted to check if anyone here knows of a place I can't find.
Question by moonismyhome | last reply
I'm wanting to make a forge, and i have 20 extra bricks, so i was thiknking of making a forge out of brick, following this idea i had in this image. If i made it it would be about 35in by 35in and i havn'e decided on the height. It would use a poured concrete base, I chose brick over making the whole thing out of concrete because i thought it would be stronger. But idk
Question by snowluck2345 | last reply
Im considering buying a cold saw or band saw but im just wondering what is better in terms of cutting quality,speed,noise and ease of use.
Question by legend4930 | last reply
I would like to drill a hole into he bottom of a 3 quart stainless steel mixing bowl in order to insert a 1/2" brass needle drain cock (and then secure the valve to hold liquid). How do I measure the diameter of the valve so I use the correct drill bit? How do I get the hole centered.? How do I keep the pot stationary? The bowl is thin, how do i keep the bit from ripping the metal?
Question by angelikaengel | last reply
I'm working on a ice cream churn and I've hit a wall with the cylinder construction. How thick should the steel be if I want it to be thin enough to bend easily without kinks yet thick enough do that it's sturdy? I don't have many tools, so how could I bend it to the right shape and diameter could I braze the steel together using a soldering torch and brazing compond? I'm planning on making it about 16 inches diameter by 2 1/2 feet. Any help would be welcome. Thank you!
Question by sugarworm | last reply
Does the wire gauge (20,24,28,30,34,36 wire gauge) make a difference is the strength of the magnet? Does the voltage I supply to the coil effect the Electromagnet??? Shall i use 304 grade steel rectangular bar for this process ? if any other materiel please suggest me?
Question by babureddy | last reply
Hi, I'm into knifemaking. There are some carbon fiber knives on the market, but they all have very poor edge retention. (because the edge is made of carbon fiber as well) I was wondering if it would be possible to add a thick metal coating of a hard metal to a carbon structural center, as to coat the blade in a thin layer of metal. This metal would then be serving as the cutting edge, hopefully with better edge retention. Is this at all possible? What types of metal could be used? Thanks in advance!
Question by jelte1234 | last reply
So I used some of the copper etchant in aqueous solution stuff (instructables example) and a couple drips got onto my sink. I was thinking there might be two ways to minimize the appearance of these stains: 1. Could I just dremel the very surface off with a fine sandpaper/stone? 2. Could I use electrolysis in a small area to try to at least pull the copper off the sink? There is some dark staining which I assume is some acid that ate through some of the steel, but the copper is the most obvious problem. I doubt there's a good method to remove what I assume is the acid staining other than trying the dremel.
Question by shmolky | last reply
I want to do a panel with "hills" and "valleys," making indentations the size of soup bowls, maybe a bit bigger. Can I "push" or "pull" metal lath that much? I know I cant do this with hardware cloth, and chicken wire is not robust enough.
Question by hardlec | last reply
You could tack/spot weld a small size of tube steal a (1/2" or 1") underneath the bottom side of the angle iron @ the 90 degree bend. This would make the Lathe rails/bed a lot stronger. Tube Steel would be the best option because it wouldn't bend or Flex like Roll Steel might. You can hold a long say a 10' piece of roll steal up and you can see it bow some. Then hold a 10' piece of Tube Steel up and compare the difference of bow in the two. Angle iron would be a second choice. PK
Question by Paul King
Okay, I've spark-tested the toes from my old boots;strong white spray, fair amount of secondary sparking...so I'm guessing a mid-range carbon steel. I'm looking to weld up blade stock with them but without a specific composition, I'm at a loss for what would be the best steel to shim into it. Tried looking up the call-codes stamped into the toes...got nothing so guessing they're just stock-control numbers. Does anyone have any more information on alloys used in steel toes?
Question by Dark Solar | last reply
For the conversion I would need information on installing an entry door, windows, insulation, electricity, heating, wall board, plumbing ~~ sink, toilet, shower ect. Any information would be helpfull. Thank you.
Question by garrison111 | last reply
I know how to make potassium chlorate using electrolysis but I've seen on YouTube that you can use NaCl (table salt) in a mixture with water and that i can electrolyze it with platinum and titanium (or steel) electrodes. i need to get around shipping stuff to myself (because my parents) so i wanted to know if i should just make KClO3 or if i can use two stainless steel electrodes or if there are other easy accessible metals i can use
Question by hopekiller30 | last reply
I was thinking about 3d printing aluminum and was wondering if you could do something like this. You have a stainless steel air tight cylinder, surrounded with some refreactory, then nichrome wire, then insulating refreactory. The first layer of refractory is to prevent an electric short between the wire and the stainless steel cylinder. Stainless steel so it will take longer to oxidize. You would fill the cylinder with aluminum, close it, turn on the heater, t would heat up the stainelss steel and aluminum and melt the aluminum. Temperature could be regulated. Air would go to a hole in the top of it, the air would be regulated by a solenoid valve and a a pressure release valve. A needle with come out of the bottom, however it would be bent into a upside down U shape and one side would poke out the bottom, this would preven the aluminum from running out when there wasn't pressure. When the solenoid is open, aluminum comes out, when the solenoid is closed the release valve is opened to get rid of any excess pressure and stop the aluminum flow. This would be put in the place of the the traditional extruder, would this work?
Question by snowluck2345 | last reply
I have a hydrogen generator and use the gas as i make it at the moment. I want to try compressing it, the issue is the gas is really a combination of pure oxygen and hydrogen in the perfect explosive mix. If i have flame aresters on all my pipes and have it well earthed as well as not using steel parts in the compressor so there is no chance of static or sparks from steel, will it be relatively safe to try compressing this into a cylinder? or am i insane to try this???
Question by benmurton | last reply
Which is better for removing rust from the inside of a motorcycle gas tank using the electrolysis method? Steel anode or carbon graphite anode? I have tried both. I like the carbon graphite better. It seems to be a cleaner process and to work just as good as the steel anode. Should I use 12 volts or 3 volts? Does a pulsating DC work better than a continuous DC? What is the best amperage?
Question by Goldwingracer | last reply