Instructable tips? Answered

I am making an instructable on how to make a chicken coop, I already have lots of pictures.  Anyone have any tips on how to make a great instructable?  I am thirteen and this is my first  instrucable I intend to publish.

Question by furrysalamander   |  last reply


Autogyro construction tips, please!!!

Hey i would like to get some tips on my autogyro which i plan to build...    a) Rotor shape & size    b) Engine power (and power source) and engine propellor shape & size    c) Materials to be used in construction (durable, cheap)    d) Approximate size P.S. I weigh around 345 Newtons...

Question by hqdiyexplorer   |  last reply


Tip will not tin on new soldering iron?

I just got my first soldering iron, a pen style weller. It was a real cheapo at $20 from home depot. When I go to tin the tip all the solder just beads up on itself and won't touch the iron. The iron turns black almost instantly and will smoke even if nothing is touching it. I have tried two different solders, one that came with it and some electric solder I bought separately, both are lead free and rosin core. The iron is 25 watts and gets up to 750 degrees fahrenheit. Any ideas?

Question by DELETED_Fuogger   |  last reply


Wood working help?

To make this question as short as possible, I'll get straight to the point. I am making a replica of a weapon from a game from wood, however the blade is quite large. Its a kind of battleaxe (see picture below) however I'm having a hard time finding a way to get quite a big piece of wood to slope to a point like a blade would. So basically I want to make a large piece of wood into a long wedge shape but I cant figure out how to do it. As you can see in the picture, using the hand on the handle for size reference, it is quite a large blade. The tools I have in my workshop are: A table saw, a band saw, a scroll saw, mitre saw, drills, handsaws, and chisels. (these are the only tools I think would come in handy, I do not have any tools such as a belt sander, though I do have an orbital sander if that helps) Any help it appreciated! Thanks.

Question by Hiyadudez   |  last reply


My soldering iron tip keeps corroding.

I recently bought a new soldering iron and it works great. The only problem is: The tip keeps corroding down! It won't solder properly and it's a bit frustrating. What can i do to stop this?

Question by WerdnaN   |  last reply


Looking for tips on painting wood in mass amounts.? Answered

Big fencing project coming up and I need to pretreat all the wood (2000+ boards). I am looking for any tips.methods for covering all sides of every board quickly and efficiently. I'm using a penetrating oil and it seems to take a couple days to dry so I'm trying to figure out how to coat all sides and set them aside to dry without affecting the finish too much where it rests on the sides that are wet. I'll be needing to do around 40 boards per day to make any kind of real progress, and would like to do the whole surface in one go as opposed to doing half at a time, but I don't see how to do it without setting it down a side that's still wet.

Question by siamonsez   |  last reply


Tips and tricks for UV curing glue, resin and coatings

Only a few years ago your only option to repair certain plastics, glass or even a broken crystal was epoxy based resin or the good old superglue.You might have already tried one of the 5-seconds-repair pens or tried your own UV curing nail polish art at home.For the later you might be lucky as the resins used here are optimised for the purpose and lights you get with them.Sadly even the best nail polish is no substitude for a glue as the material properties need to be different.One of the most common complaints when it comes to using some UV glue, like Kafuter or similar is that it never comes with instructions.Sould be straight forward but it is not free of problems.For example almost all commercail UV curing glues that you can buy require quite stirct procedures and for the light the right wavelenth(s).Resins and coatings can be even more painful here as they might also require you to stick to the correct temperature.Let's start with one thing you might have encountered already...The glue is definately cured and rock hard but the surface tacky and smeary.Quite annoying if you want to fix a piece of jewellery and can't prevent it from collecting dirt and dust...The next thing you might have encountered is that despite having transparent materials it seems to be impossible to cure the clue.Both problems come down to wavelenght and exposure.UV curing glue is prevented from curing in the presence of oxygen - a factor utilised for example in resin based 3D printers.Uncovered glue is exposed to the oxygen in the air and won't cure easy.The glue or resin below this layer however with fully cure with ease in the absence of oxygen.For the second problem consider that not all materials that you can see through will let UVC light pass through ;)Bonding strenght is another complaint I hear a lot...Be aware that certain things just are no good for UV curing glues or resins.Take the molds you get for that purpose: on the material the glue won't bond!Teflon is another prime candidate here.But in a lot of cases it comes down to surface preparation.Don't be afriad to sand the surface!Not only will the surface area increase but the scratch marks will be invisible once filled anyways.Use sandpaper on your fingernails, then go over with clear nail polish -mirror finish ;)With curing often a problem consider to fully cover the glue.A bit of clear sticky tape, food wrapping foil....If that is not an option then eliminate the oxygen.You can use a container filled with inert (for the glue) gas like CO2 or just place a burning candle in it until it goes out....Either way the amount of oxygen should then be low enough to cure the surface of your glue.Not always is any of the above an option.Then you can still try more power and a lover wavelength.Mercury based lamps for example provide a very broad and powerful light that in most cases will cure within seconds.For a proper surface cure you need a wavelength of 265nm or lower.LED's offering this exist but at prices well out of range for the hobby user.A mercury lamp under high pressure is nothing for short term use and the limited lifespan does not always justify the costs of buying them.Like with most things in life certain inventions can have a dual purpose.Quality germicidal lamp systems for examples often state to go as low or even lower than 265nm.And they come at a fraction of the cost you have with a broadband mercury lamp.Even cheaper is the fre weather forecast.If the sun is siad to be strong enough so you need protection than even the worst glue will fully cure in seconds outside in the sun - tackfree!Don't be fooled and protect yourself!!These tiny LED lamps for your glue stick, the curing thingies for your nailpolish and everything else using UV light comes with warnings.For very good reasons!It might be hidden in the fineprint but you can not really see UV light.The blueish-purple glow you see is on the high end of what comes out and by that in the visible range of your eye.Just because a LED only gives a faint glow you see does not mean the UV light wouldn blind you if you could see it!Even worse for fluoroscent lamps or open cruning systems like those for your nailpolish.Reflected UV light is still UV light and you can still NOT see it!Stories of people getting sunburnt from germicidal lamps in a butcher shop or other people going blind from checking money as their living have a true base...In most cases lamps used well past their lifespan or simply the wrong type of lamp but still: the damage came from UVC light...If you just love creating your own artwork or jewellery with UV curing resins and glues than protect yourself.Proper sunglasses with a stated UV protection for example or just black nitrile gloves for your hands...

Topic by Downunder35m 


Soldering Iron tip is turning black and will not take a tinning ?

I have a brand new soldering iron and tips. I turned the iron on and waited for it to heat up, and immediately the tip turned black. I was told to clean it with a WET sponge and re-tin it. I did. or tried to, but it keeps turning black. I bought that tip-tinning stuff in the little tin and tried using that, but the tip still is black. It's as if the black tip will not accept the tin now...and it is brand new, although it sat in a box and a zip lock baggy for two years before I am working with it now. I tried to clean the tip by wiping it on a brass wire sponge thingy and then on the WET sponge. The tip looks like it would start to get shinny silver again but only in small places not the whole tip that should be all shiny silver. But then the whole tip just turns black immediately again even before I get to do any soldering at all. I tried to re-tin my other tip that did the same thing when I first tried to use this iron ( about 2 weeks ago) and the solder melted fast, but it just sort of built up on that tip like a big glob on the top of the tip. This soldering iron and solder I am using is for stained glass jewelry making not for electronics or plumbing. I am using all the correct materials for the job and have followed all directions and what I was told to try do, to fix it by the seller I bought it from, so I think I am doing everything right (?). I am using a lead free solder that is used for stained glass soldering jewelry. I am using the copper foil "tape" and copper metal and wire. But I can't get very far since this iron is giving me such problems. Am I doing something wrong or do you think the soldering iron is faulty? This iron is an Inland brand soldering iron. Can anyone out there please help me fix this? Or do I have to buy a new iron. I have so much work to do but can not do anything now until my iron will work properly. Help!!??? Oh another question I saw an Indestructible on how to make my own soldering iron tips from 6 awg copper wire...would this work for the job I need to do ? Because if it is the tips that are the problem I could make my own tips with pure copper but the all the irons I read about that are good always are made of a layer of iron and not just pure copper...will the self-made copper tips stick to my project or the solder since I am working with pure copper sheet and wire and I am using a lead free solder made up of Tin and Silver and one made of Tin and Copper. Its a bright shinny silver color since I want the silver look in the end... not the copper look in my hand made jewelry and sculptures I'm making. 

Question by donnadidit   |  last reply


Got any tips on replacing an exhaust flex pipe? Answered

So, the flex pipe on my good old Mercury Mystique is almost fully cracked on one end.  The place where the flex pipe and braiding are connected to the solid exhaust pipe is only about 25% intact.  The result is that my car sounds like a hot rod when it's running, has about as much power as a scooter, and is likely leaking carbon monoxide and other nastiness into the cabin. Obviously, this needs to be fixed. Normally, I'd take my car to an exhaust shop to have it fixed.  This time, I have neither the cash (likely at least $600, but probably more like $800) nor the inclination (spend 800 bucks on a car that would sell for 500? no thanks!) to have a pro fix it for me.  So, I want to do it myself. I've already purchased the proper length of flex pipe with the intention of grafting it in.  I have a saw to cut out the old pipe, ramps to get under the car, and flux-core wire welder.  So, mechanically-inclined friends, have you got any tips for me?  Can I weld in the new pipe while everything is attached to the car, or do I have to remove the exhaust system and weld in the new flex pipe on the bench? Can I save myself the hassle of welding the pipe and simply clamp it in place?

Question by jeff-o   |  last reply


Spare tip for MAPLIN soldering iron N78AR ??? How to find it ??? Answered

Hi ... would someone be so kind and give me advice, how to find spare tips for the MAPLIN N78AR soldering iron ??? I know, that I can buy a set in MAPLIN ... but I would like to buy 3x fine tips - preferably on EBAY - but I don't know how can I find it ??? Thank you in advance. Zholy

Question by zholy   |  last reply


How does one with no experience learn to work on and fix up cars? Where to start?

I am a girl and I have been interested in fixing cars for a while. Quite a few guys at my school seem to know how to fix cars up, but they had to start somewhere, right? Often, I think peoples' fathers help them out, but my own father knows nothing about cars, nor shows any interest in helping me. If anyone has tips on where I could start, perhaps I could find a shop where people would help me? Or do any car co-ops exist? I know there is such a place for bicycles where I live. Any tips would be great! I am enthusiastic and have some background with fixing bicycles and doing wood and metal projects, so I'm not mechanically clueless. I am mostly interested in old cars, but anything to start would be alright. I have browsed Craigslist for cars and found a few I could afford. On that note, I have a teen's level of funding, so I could find something, but tips on making the best of my money when going about fixing up an old car would also be appreciated (especially considering the cost for parts and such). Any tips on where and how to start are what I am looking fore. Thank you!

Question by toolgal29   |  last reply


Linear magnetmotor - the basics for a beginner

Designing what is said to be impossible can be tricky, so I will try to give you some tips to reach your goal a bit quicker.A lot of people these days try to start with a wheel.Makes sense in one way as the final goal obviously is something that would rotate.However, considering angles in a rotating system is far easier with a usable baseline!We developed the liear motor well after any rotating electric motor.But only because someone already invented it for us.Making it flat was then more or less about finding a need for it first, like the modern highspeed trains on a maglev principle.If you want to make something move then it makes no big difference if you do it in flat or round.Flat however leaves you more options and much easier adjustments.And you will need a lot of the later...IMHO the best size and option for linear is the N0 model railway system.Tracks are only 3CM wide and second hand carriages to salvage the wheels is cheap.Either way, how would you start?We have multiple choices, like single row of magnets or double, maybe even tripple.Same for the actual magnet orientation.Flat, angled, attracting or repulsing...They all work if you understand how they actually work.Not the principle, the magnets ;)You see, a magnet always has two poles and without trickery both poles will be of even strenght, size, angle to each other and so on.Playing on a small and flat track with little resistance allows to use tiny magnets, like 5mm disc ones.If you follow the common concept of two magnet rows either side at a slight angle then you are half way there.People spent a lot of time trying not only to let the cart being attracted by the first magnets but also to let them pass out at the other end.In case you wonder why:Being able to be "sucked" in means you will have some force pulling on your cart from the next stage.Being able to fully pass through and preferably gain speed, means the cart would go from one set of magnets to the next - motion is accomplished.Let me give you my personal favourites for 5mm disc magnets:1. The rows are at an angle of 4-5° like a slim V-shape.2. Same as above by with the orientation changed by 90°The first basically means you have the magnets facing up while in the second you would have them mounted vertically.Both have good and bad sides and I think it is easiest to start with the first option.Here you would have a row of magnets at a slight angle either side of the track.Lets say it is all pointing away from you, then the north row would be left, south row on the right of the track.If you start narrow or wide depends if you want attraction or repulsion forces to work with.Again, it makes no big difference really, just a different way of operation, most seem to prefer repulsion though thinking the forces are greater - this is not true though ;)A very often copied way of mounting the working magnet (s) on the cart is by placing a magnet with south facing down on the left and one with north facing down on the right of the cart.Here you have the big problem of manipulating fields.The forces are quite strong and it seems the obvious choice but should be left for the advanced classes.Let me try to explain:No matter the site of your work magnet it has a very narrow acting field.Means you have a lot of attraction forces going only downwards and not providing any energy to move your system ;)If you orientate a magnet (stack) so north faces to the right and south to the left on either side of the cart you have more options.If the stack or single magnet has the correct length to match the angle of the magnet rows then a funny thing happens.Assume the outer most magnet is at about the same distance from center as the first magnet in the row.Means the inner most and opposing one is further away and the attraction forces gain the upper hand.While moving along though it moves away from the magnet row and whie still gaining force the last magnet in the row stops the cart dead center.This is the common scenario you see on the web when people try and fail.Now if you change the length of your working magnet and position in relation to the magnets in the row you can use the changes to your advantage.You can add slim disc magnets either side of your stack and observe the change in behaviour and where the cart starts to be repelled or gets stuck.In a bad case it starts fast but then stops with a big wobble back and forth.The perfect balance and size means the cart is attracted once it comes close to the magnet rows.There should only be a tiny sopt of very little repulsion right before the cart takes off.Like a hair trigger on a good gun if you know what I mean.It should then see some accelleration till about magnet 5-7 in a row of 14.From there it should level out and roll trough and keep rolling.I assume your first attempts now get you to the point where you cart start really nice, slows down a bit and seems just to miss a tiny extra push to make it out.It it shoots to the last magnet in the rows and then settles back to one or two before the end you are close!We have now two basic ways of manipulating the magnetic fields in our favour, or to "cheat" phsyics.Closing the gap.You will have realised by now that you need at least two stages for your system to be tested properly.Preferably 3 to get a 120° angle in a rotary conversion, but 5 would make sure there is hickups.This also means distance is now something to play with.Remember the pull before get at the same level with the first magnet in the rows?This is the first force we utilise by bringing the second stage at a distance CLOSE to take over the pull.Close because we don't want it to pull the cart out just like that.It would create a big "bump" and in a rotary system massive and unwanted vibrations.Instead we weaken the last magnet in either row.We still want to keep its pull but not so much the holding force that makes our cart go stuck here.Placing a magnet orientated in the same direction as your rows at the end of the row will change how and where the field of the last magnet in the row goes ;)Just to be precise: If the magnet in the row is north up and south down then the added magnet should have the poles 90° to that and in the same direction as the row.Depending how high, how close and with wich pole you place it the fields will change.You want to lower the locking force by at least 50% here - that will be suffient to overcome the holding force and gives the next stage a good chance to take over.It can also help to provide a sacrificial pole below the last magnet in the row.Again if north would be facing up then the lower magnet would also face north up but with a small distance to the upper manget.Ok, what happens here exactly?If I would want to be precise here you would need to read an awful lot, so make it simple...The lower magnet provides a way for the upper magnets south pole to get somewhere else instead of back to its original north pole.It also means there is another north pole "pushing" the north of the upper magnet more flat at the bottom half.This weakens the field strenght.Distance is key.The added magnet at the end does a similar thing.It provides attraction or repulsion forces that affect the field shape of the last magnet in the row.Imagine you have north facing towards the last magnet:You would push the last bit of the field up while also providing a very sharp end instead of a big round shape.The south pole of the last magnet also gets attracted by this added magnet, even more with one magnet below it.With those two added magnets you should be able to fully overcome the binding effect stopping your cart.It won't start and keep going when you let go of it half way down the track though, you need to start with the first magnet or give it a push to overcome the first binding effect.After that momentum takes over.If it really is that simple then where are all the successful videos about it?They are out there, you just need to look quite long for them.Most people still literally think only linear.A magnet has north and south and we can't change it - but we can...With field manipulations as above and shielding we get so much more than what physics currently dictates.Keep in mind that adding shielding under your rows of magnets will also affect how all works together ;)Some people forget this when using ferromagnetic things way too close to their testing area.Distance is also vital to keep in mind when experimenting.The closer two magnets are greater their forces to each other.You can utilise this for example by lowering magnets that seem to be far too strong in your configuration and cause a binding effect ;)And as said, shielding is nice thing for triack too - imagine what would happen with sielding on the sides of your magnet rows... ;)Make a negative into a positive!Extremly strong binding forces at a certain point in your track design can mean you might be able to utilise it instead of trying to waste it.Added magnets can divert the field to quite some extend.Shielding however can also direct them somewhere else - like in the core of a transformer where it all goes in a great circle.Even strips of shielding connecting magnets from one row to the one on the other side of the track can be utilised.Like that you turn two small magnets into one long one with twisted poles at the end.Provides more field strenght too and makes it good for areas with little to no attracting force to the cart.Then there is bigger design...Some people add a center magnet.With one on the cart and one in the center of the track you can create a cancellation field.The rows bind while the center magnet wants to push.If place where there is still enough forward momentum or even acceleration but close enough to the binding magnets it is possible to greatly lower the binding effect.But keep in mind you need to consider the added repulsion or compensated the field so it is most active towards the moving direction and less strong to where the cart is coming from.Advanced manipulations.You can machine magnets, sandpaper, file, grinder, CNC....Imagine you cut a square dice magnet from one corner to the other.Depending on how you have the field orientation you can end up several variations.But if north faced up in your dice then it will still face up in the cut pieces!Cut a pyramid and you end with a big flat south pole and a pointy north pole - and with extreme field strenth in this pointy bit.Similar story with half moon shapes.Imagine you machine a flat block magnet so you have a half moon with its pointy bits facing down and big round bit up.If north was up in the block and you shape the moon correctly then you end with two strong south pole points and a north pole that is strongest right between those points.Why is this so interesting you might wonder?Imagine you already know a magnets pole does not care if gos back to its own opposite or that of a different magnet.Then you also know you can machine and shape magnets to your will.Now imagine that for a change:Precisely machined pyramids that have the top chopped off.All tops in this example facing being the north poles and big bottom south.If you then machine a precise iron core block you make a nice cube.With magnets we need really good glue and a good press to make it happen.But if the center core is of proper size then we end with a block magnet that has a south pole on all sides.Of course to be 100% perfect we would need a zero tolerance gap but good glue and high forces can come quite close.Works as a sphere too but would even have clue where to start to machine the magnets LOL

Topic by Downunder35m 


Shop Organization Tips and Practices from 03/17/2019

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Question by GLBTS   |  last reply


Does anyone know any tips for recycling tires at home.? ? Answered

I was   just curious if anyone  had   any tips for recycling tires  at  home on the farm? Also any  uses?  Seems such a   terrible  thing   on  te  enviroment with so many tires   and not   nthing to do wih them.

Question by andy1917   |  last reply


I´m building skateboard and I need some tips, anyone?

I am doing a sophomore project which is building a skateboard and I need some tips on how to and how long will it take and I need a certain paint anyone know what it´s called? 

Question by Daijsa-VeauF   |  last reply


anyone got any tips on making tuned flutes out of bamboo?

I have made flutes before out of bamboo and thet turned out ok but i had the hole size and position draw on the bamboo by a professanil flute maker so i was wondering if anyone had any tips on making a bamboo flute i understand scales and tunig and such i play alot of instruments its just making a good one thats the trick

Question by bamboolover   |  last reply



Soldering Help? Answered

So i recently got a 40 watt weller soldering iron. This is my first soldering iron ever, and i have watched many instructional videos and tips on how to use it. I had a bit of trouble tinning the tip but i got the hang of it. I am using Rosin Core Solder btw. Today i went to go practice my soldering a bit, so i plugged in my soldering iron and waited for it to heat up. Once i heated it up i got a damp sponge and i wiped off the old solder. IIRC i wiped it off and then tryed to tin the tip again, but i saw my tip has turned black. I tried to tin it, but the solder just turned into a ball and rolled off the tip, as if the tip was oil and the solder was water. I tried taking off what i presumed was oxidation by cleaning it with the sponge, mr. cleans magic eraser, and my last resort was a nail filer. MR cleans magic eraser turned the oxidation a grayish blue, but the nail filer was the only thing that took off all the oxidation. (i know that any sort of abrasive thing shouldn't be used, but i was angry and confused). I felt pretty happy, but as soon as i put solder on the tip, the tip immediately turned black and the solder rolled off again, making tinning impossible. I tried re tinning my spare chisel tip too and it wasnt so bad, but the solder just rolled off too. Now all i have left is a tinned "mini chisel" tip that im scared to use because i dont want to mess up what i have left. Is there something im doing wrong? I could really use some help.

Question by jaguilar16   |  last reply


How thick is a katanas blade closest to the handle and how thick is it 1.5 inches from the tip?

How thick is a katanas blade closest to the habaki and how thick is it 1.5 inches from the tip?

Question by the_burrito_master   |  last reply


Shock from soldering gun? Answered

I tried a bit of soldering a few hours ago and as soon as I touched the hot tip with the solder wire,I got a shock!!(huge enough to be detected by a tester).....what shall I do?and could water touching the metal tip be a cause?

Question by Adarsh_tronix   |  last reply


Can anyone help me out with some fiberglass mold making techniques or tips?

I am wanting to do a custom center console and door panels for my Honda Civic out of fiber glass and or carbon fiber, but I am not sure how to go about getting started with making the mold. If anyone could give some advice, tips or techniques I would greatly appreciate it.

Question by dseries16   |  last reply


what do i do about leaking model paints? Answered

I have two midel paint jars, they dont have holes in them, but when they are tipped over, they leak. im putting them in a thing were all paints are tipped, so can anyone help me, to stop them from leaking.

Question by the poodleo   |  last reply


DIY scanning tunnelling microscope

I caught this on the MAKE blog; the full article is at ChemHacker. Sacha De'Angeli has announced the release of "version 0.1" (proof of concept) for a do-it-yourself scanning tunnelling microscope. If you already know what an STM is, my work here is done. For the rest of you, a scanning tunnelling microscope moves a very fine ("single atom sharp") tip across a surface.Electrons can jump between the surface and tip, leading to a varying electric current which can be amplified and measured. How well the electrons can jump depends exponentially on the width of the gap. Near an atom is closer than between atoms, so by moving the tip in very small (nanometer) increments, you can image the atomic structure of the surface. With a less sharp tip, or coarser position control, you can still image surface structure, steps, defects, etc. UPDATE: Instructables user Fabio M had posted a different STM project last December.

Topic by kelseymh   |  last reply


tips on buying a microscope, looking for aa good used deal. ecoli, parasitesl, arva eggs,

I want to buy a compound microscope, i want to be able to check for ecoli and parasite eggs. i figure 2000 power may work, correct me if not. would really like to be able to monitor or take pics via pc, but may be out of  price range.  looking at $300 us tops ,unless a super good used deal for around $500 comes by. i never took biology ,well since high school, so am out of ouch of what i want. ebay has new ones of a chinese brand, have to look up the name, but prefer used for better deal unless people know that the new ebay scopes A??? are a good deal. are scopes up-gradable , meaning, could i get a scope and add the camera attachment later? thanks, pure noob here, i know i dony want clips, and i know certain lights = cheaper from my research.

Topic by escapefromyonkers   |  last reply


How do I get compost to release methane?

I am hoping to produce some natural gas this year from compost, any tips/experience? 

Question by quagss   |  last reply


In depth preventative car maintenance....?

I've recently got a 1996 Dodge Neon. Sat untouched in the winter for a year or two. After using it; things have been failing left and right in the vehicle... What are some things i can do to clean out or revamp my car to make it in tip-top "like new" shape?? I'm not at all shy to do anything under the hood. I'm just unsure of which direction i should go. I'd very much like to complete this before winter. Some tips and details would be GREATLY appreciated.

Question by lutziepv08   |  last reply


how to clean antique bronze lamp?

I bought an antique bronze and coper lamp.  I have cleaned it somewhaat, yet, i havent been succedssful cleaning it all the way.  Any tips?

Question by jhidalgo   |  last reply


I need a really fast pinewood derby car! Answered

I am entering the pinewood derby and I am looking for fast ideas that could get me a winning car! Thank you!

Question by DELETED_tayrazz:D   |  last reply


Landing jumps

Does anyone have some useful tips on landing a jump on a dirtbike? How about landing onto a rough, washboard track, any different? I've become very good at landing... on my face...

Topic by Rishnai   |  last reply


Charge and use spare cellphone batteries

Ok, hopefully I'm posting this in the right forum. I got LOTS of broken cell phones at home and even some spare batteries from said phones. So what to do? I'm going to use them in some wearable projects. The problem that I'm having is that I'm not sure how to connect the wires so that I can charge it and how to connect the battery to the circuit. There are lots of instructables here but hell if I can find the right keywords to actually find what I'm looking for.  Any ideas? Tips for suitable instructables? Tips for better keywords? Keyphrases?  Best regards! Osquar

Topic by Osquar   |  last reply


hexagonal box design?

Looking for tips for efficient design of wooden hexagonal boxes, bottoms, and lids.  Jewelry boxes, canisters, etc.  How to clamp for glue or air brads - I'm thinking a hexagonal jig, but that's potentially a lot of jigs for different-size boxes.

Question by rjvoyerjr   |  last reply


Archery question: What are the pros/cons to having static limbs Vs Ordinary limbs on an English longbow?

I am looking to build, from scratch, (not even a pre-cut board to start), a 6 foot longbow from Osage Orange wood, and I am looking at different designs. People say that a static tip versus a working tip will improve the speed and silence of the bow. However, different people say that it does not increase the performance of the bow, and will make the possibility of twisting the limbs when stringing it that much higher. Below is a pretty accurate basic shape model of what I want it to look like, but without the scrollwork/external artistic detailing. (Copyright to this image goes to Medieval Collectibles. I do not own this picture.) I love the look of it, and the idea of having a completely silent bow is attractive. But I want a bow that lasts my entire life. Does anyone have info on pros and cons? Also, if ANYONE knows where to get schematics/instructions for building a bow like this, it would be awesome if you could show me where to get them. (Pay close attention to the shape of the tips!)

Question by zelback1   |  last reply


Putting a mini jack in your car

I have a 1991 Ford Explorer, i want to put in a mini jack so i can plug in any mp3 player to play music over the main sound system. Anyone have any tips on this?

Topic by frenzy   |  last reply


how do I design a log truss ?

Need to design and build a log truss to span 25 ft using logs with 14inch buts 12in tips snow load for se minnasota with 8  12 pitch white pine logs thanks alot

Question by logbuilder   |  last reply


4stroke mower overfilled with oil

My masport 4 stroke filled to top with oil,its in muffler as well, how can i fix it,can i just tip it on it side an drain it,how do i get compression back,it had none since being overfilled.

Question by glorz69   |  last reply


I cannot embed YouTube? Answered

I am preparing Instructables, but I cannot embed YouTube. In accordance with Step by Step Authoring Tips, I copied and pasted my embed code on YouTube to Embed Video Dialog. Then press OK, but no proceeding. Kindly advise me.  

Question by Kaeru no Ojisan   |  last reply


Any of you more seasoned build-o-philes have tips, mods, or tricks for an 8"(or any size) drill press? Answered

I was recently given a very well taken care of 8" Craftsman 1/3hp 5 speed drill press. It works fine, but it's a little grimy. So I'm currently cleaning it. Actually I wanted to ask someone if it's okay to clean that gunky layer of grease off of it because the grime has mixed in and it's essentially "sanding" the post. If it IS okay to clean off, do I replace it with different or newer grease once it's been cleaned? Also, ever since I was a kid, I was captivated by the swirling grinder or polisher pattern on the drill press table. Mine has a thin layer of rust on the table. Is there any way to remove the rust without ruining my beloved swirly pattern? So to wrap up here is the list of questions... 1. What are some modifications, tips, tricks, jigs, etc. for an 8" Benchtop Drill Press? 2. Is it okay to clean the grease off of the entire machine? If so, do I regrease it afterwards? What's the best product to use? 3. Is there a way to remove small layer of rust off the table without compromising the original swirl pattern? ANY and ALL help or suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thank you Instructables community!!(That made me think of a town whose entire population was comprised of Instructables members. Ha! Got a question about robots? Go to Ted's three doors down. Building a welder from car batteries? Oh Tom two streets over would be more than happy to help! I know...ridiculous.)

Question by Mister Wolf   |  last reply


My chemistry textbook was right all along!

As reported in Physics World today, a team of Swiss and Dutch physicists have developed a novel tip for an atomic force microscope (AFM) using a single carbon monoxide molecule. The tip is stable enough to image individual atoms and bonds within molecules.The first image below is from the group's AFM of a single pentacene (C22H14) molecule on a copper (Cu(111)) substrate. The second picture shows the conventional chemical structure diagram (the vertices are carbon, and one hydrogen hangs off of each exterior corner), and the third is a "ball" model, with carbon atoms in black and hydrogen in white. As discussed in the article, the whole molecule is just 1.4 nm long, with a spacing of 0.14 nm between adjacent carbon atoms.The paper is out in today's Science, but it's pay-per-view.

Topic by kelseymh   |  last reply


Taser/Shock wand from Car Antenna

I have an old ball-tipped car antenna lying around and I want to turn it into a shock-wand. Any ideas on how to do so? It's still has the hex and threading at the base. Any help is welcome.

Topic by DSJesterXII   |  last reply


Removing an almost completely stripped screw? Answered

Pretty much what the title says, its quick a small screw too (in length) and I've tried quite a few methods online, such as placing a rubberband in the screw head and using a larger screw bit and a hammer. The head is almost completely stripped and the screwdriver gets like 5% grip. Any tips? D:

Question by Hiyadudez   |  last reply


What is this?

Does anybody know what the object in this photo is?  The thing was in a box of stuff I got at an auction and neither myself or several friends know what it is for. It is 6" long and made of metal (I think it is brass) and is kind of heavy in my hand. The tip on the smaller end of it unscrews at the narrowest point and reveals a hollow shaft. Thx for your input!

Question by vjpcat   |  last reply


A neon with an a/c that just doesn't work, Now what can this girl do to fix?

I have a 05' dodge neon with an a/c that just doesn't work. I bought on of those R-134a kits and checked the PSi like the instructions say to and low and behold the gauge is reading 200 PSi. Now what can this girl do to fix the problem...any helpful tips?

Question by AmberD5   |  last reply


hey does any one know a good tutorial on how to make a nice tobacco pipe?

Im looking for a relatively easy tutorial on how to create an all wood pipe like gandalf the greys from the lord of the rings if anyone knows a good one or just any tips on making it look good id appreciate the help, thank you.

Question by riguy98   |  last reply


Caster/Crazy Wheel on a car?

So I have this great idea, at least I think its great essentially you buy a very cheap front wheel drive car, take off the rear wheels and put two giant casters on it.  I think it would be a blast, the amount of G forces you could pull with a 1 cylinder engine would be insane.  What are your opinions, tips, ideas? Have you heard of this before?

Question by jj.inc   |  last reply


Ideas for my black walnut table?

I cut down 2 huge black walnut trees in my backyard and I have decided to make some tables but I need some tips and ideas for the table.. The thing stumping me the most (haha) is how should I make the legs for a table that small probably 2 feet in across?

Question by Don,t try this at home   |  last reply


DIY Mini Drill Machine

Hi everybody! I have bought a mini drill chuck from banggoog.com. But unfortunately it's hole is smalle than my DC motor. i don't even know the motor I have is 12v or 6v but i have ran this motor on 12v but i didnt burnt. its tip is bigger than my drill chuck. Any ideas how I can fix this?

Topic by NajabatK   |  last reply


how much concrete do i need? Answered

Ok folks im building a bushfire bunker and i need to know how much concrete i need to make 4 walls 10cm thick 2m high and 4m long what kind of concrete i need and what kind of mix it should be how i should mix it etc i have had almost no prior experiance concreting so any tips would be appreciated

Question by milamber   |  last reply


How can I make to arms move towards each other with high precision and a single motor? Answered

What I would like to do is have two "arms" side by side both starting at 90 degrees (Figure A), and then have them pivot inward until they touch at the tip (Figure B), but I need to be able to precisely control their angles, use a single motor, and the base of the "arms" cannot move. Does anyone know of a way this can be done?

Question by geekman2   |  last reply


Methane Oxidation Catalysts? Answered

I've been helping to come up with a small engine that runs on methane extracted from compost. One issue that I've run into is the fact that completely utilizing the gas isn't very easy, and some can escape the exhaust. I've heard of catalysts that help to completely burn the stuff, but I'm completely unsure of how to get them for such a small project, what price they'd be, or how to make them. Does anybody have any tips?

Question by DIY Emilio   |  last reply


Making a mini branding iron? Answered

I am considering making a mini branding iron (about 3/4" square) out of brass with my initial to brand my work.  I have some brass which I hope to transfer my initial on and then cut with a rotary tool. First I have to transfer the pattern,and thinking of using my ink jet printer and some acetone, and then proceeding to cut away with my rotary tool. Do anyone have any suggestions or tips?   Thanks

Question by WazIt   |  last reply