Looking at cordless drill I noticed one which stated on it that it produced 32Nm of torque at 2000RPM. This seems a lot are they being optimistic. None of my drills have it marked on them.
Question by rickharris | last reply
Hi; I have a DC Servo motor. I want to increase its torque. It has 12volt and max 900mamp current gives 15kgcm torque. I want to remove the tiny DC motor and fix a 5amp 12volt big motor with metal gears. I want to ask " How can I give more current without burning the main SMD circuit board". If I place a battery in parallel to the motor terminals it can burn the circuit. Any ideas ?
Question by MohitJindal | last reply
Hi,I am trying to figure out maximum linear force I can produce with an electric motor through use of lead screw and nut. I have come up with an equation which seems correct but resulting forces are way higher than my intuition believes is correct.I tackled the problem from the perspective of energies:F' * p = M/r * 2*π*rlinear force * thread pitch = torque / radius [M/r = force at radius] * circumference of lead screwF = 2*π*M/p * (1-k) //k stands for coefficient of friction between lead screw and nut)Radius falls out of equation, which seems fine as force is provided by torque, which is radius agnostic. I used a 7€ stepper for source of torque which can provide 0.42 Nm of torque and a lead screw with 8 mm pitch and 4 mm radius, I assumed 15% losses. My equation tells me that such system can provide 280 N of force, which seems wayyy too much for a cheap motor.I have attached a python code that calculates linear force in case it helpsCan someone tell me if my equation is either correct or flawed?
Topic by ptkrf | last reply
So, I'm fairly new to electric motors. I salvaged a motor from a vacuum. I know that they have high torque. I'm just wondering what kind of weight they could move. For example, if I weigh 225, would it be able to pull me on a go kart? Thank you!
Topic by jmeservy | last reply
So recently I've been wanting to to build some kind of electric mini car/gocart but I have no idea about battery and motor requirements. Basically what I want to know is what would be some battery and motor requirements for such a vehicle, I need to know how many volts, amps, rpm, amp hours, kg per sq cm, motor type etc. I know I'm asking a lot , probably way too much but I'd be really greatful if I could obtain even some of this information.:-)
Question by DIYWEAPONS | last reply
Designed and Built by Emile Cole Range of Motion Video (profile).... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P_vF3...layer_embedded Range of Motion Video (front).... http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v;=E7CEwnOFnCk Hello all.... I've been working on this (hobby status) on and off over the last fifteen years or so.... a mechanism that immediately begins to rotate in either direction with an imbalancing displacement of as little as one degree. With repeated periodic displacements of as little as five to seven degrees its rate of rotation rapidly approaches about a 100 to a 150 rotations per minute over the course of just eight to ten repetitions, all while overcoming only negligible frictional resistance from the main axel (equipped with bearings). It may have some applications for extracting rotational motion more efficiently from wind and wave and maybe a couple of other things too.... or it may just be a work of art.
Topic by EmileCole | last reply
I modified small DC motors, like used in toys and such but now I have one that requires to do it properly.Motor in question runs on 24V and uses about 3.5A under full load.Drives a high pressure water pump on either side of the shaft.The rotor is basically empty with just a few turns of wire and lots of empty space.I assume the same model is used for multiple power configurations by the manufacturer.For the toys my basic approach was to just calculated the number of turns or to count them when removing.From there I get the voltage per turn and can rewind accordingly.So in theory and by blissfully ignoring all higher things involved I could do this motor the same way.Right now I see 10 windings per coil, so with thicker wire I would use 5 to run it on 12V at roughly the same speed.Only problem is that thing then would use around 7.5 to 8A when running under full load and get quite hot.I need the speed to keep the flowrate at the same 7.5L per minute but I also need the power to be able to still get the 120PSI from just 12V.Isn't there any winding trickery that would allow me to reduce the required current a bit without sacrificing on speed or torque?
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply
The studs that bolt the exhaust manifold onto the engine on my dads nissan navara (year 1990) with a td27 engine have broken. The engine is un turbed. What are the stud torque settings for these bolts? Thanks.
Question by David97 | last reply
I have an old go kart I'm fixing up and decided I want to make it run on compressed air. My question is whats the best way to achieve this? I've been debating between having an air motor drive the wheels directly, or having the air motor turn an alternator/generator to power an electric motor. I figured having the compressed air doing the work would require more torque, and therefor more air, whereas if the air motor just had to turn an alternator/generator it would need less torque and more speed. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Question by thealeks | last reply
Hi I need DC motor with 30nm torque and more than 3000 RPM how to build this or form where I can buy this in India please guide me on this also tell me what should be battery specifications to run this for 100km with the total load of 250kg?
Question by BhuvanS6 | last reply
Dear Sir/Madam, I want to make an electric car like as shown in figure below., with a DC motor. assume no inclination, road is plain surface. please explain all calculation with formulas.THANK YOU following is the basic known parameters: Total mass of car(including rider and everything) = 250kg initial velocity of car = 0 (still car stop) max velocity = 60 km per hour time to reach max velocity = 1 minute = 60 seconds radius of tyre = 8 inch please tell me how could i find the following parameters to find accurate DC motor for my car: how to calculate force needed by my car? how to calculate torque needed by my car? how to calculate speed RPM of a motor needed by my car? how to calculate power (watt) of motor needed by my car? how to calculate battery needed by my car to travel 10 km in one charge?
Question by fawad_pappi | last reply
Im looking to improve the appearance, performance, handleing, horsepower, torque and the "get up and go" factor. I cannot make a permenent modification (or one that cant be removed without showing little signs of it) because that would void my dealer bumper to bumper and/or powertrain warranties. I do know things can be done without voiding the warranties that would give me some results, however I dont know what they are. I also cant afford major upgrades due to lack of money. please tell me what, if anything, I can do to put the "street car" edge on my own car
Question by fastcar123 | last reply
Hailed as the arrival of the motorcycle of the future the MotoCzysz E1PC electric motorcycle is burning up the track. With a 100 horsepower (continuous) and 250 pound-feet or torque, it's no slouch. Check it out via Wired's Autopia http://www.wired.com/autopia/2010/06/motoczysz-e1pc/
Topic by Culturespy | last reply
Is the 8kg-cm and 250 rpm dc motor is good for electric bike?? hi i have a 12v dc geared motor 250 : rpm 8 km-cm : torque is this good for build ebike ??
Question by ShocoM | last reply
Dear All Please help me to know : Between 2 type model gearbox reduction ratio by worm gear and other by spur gear ( please see photo ). If gear ratio and motor power is same equal what kind of type gearbox for more power torque .Many thank you in advance for your time.
Question by lam | last reply
The studs on my dads nivara have broken, they connect the exhaust manifold to the engine and we need the torque settings to replace them. The truck is 1990 with a td27 engine does anyone have a link to a online manual. Thanks.
Question by David97 | last reply
I have been experimenting with compressed air. Currently I am working on a compressed air turbine. So far it so promise. I'm running a 18" x12" casing. It turns about 10,500 rpm and runs through a gear reducer to provide torque that I need to run a generator. I have a small screw compressor to refill the tank.
Question by alvin9861 | last reply
Anybody tried machining strong magnets into the armature of say 10 or 20 hp 3 phase motor. do not know the output if any but if so then running through a transformer that might have output of 220 that is actually useable for living, working in a garage. i understand it would have to be overdriven possibly by multiple blades for torque to reach the ness speed. just curious if you think it might work or not be worth the effort. this is a new field for me.
Question by builditbigger | last reply
Hi Is there somekind of guide how to choose catecory for the instructable? Like this: https://www.instructables.com/id/Broken-Angle-Grinder-to-High-Torque-Drill-Press-Sa/ Its mostly made from metal.. so its "Metalworking", but its also a "tool" and can be used for "woodworking" too. So, if i make woodworking tool from metal. Wich catecory i should choose? I know its not a big issue, but should i catecore instructable from the making process or from the final use? I have been wondering this for a while and decided to ask if there is some guidelines for that. Thanks Tuomas Soikkeli
Question by The other Finnish guy
Does anyone know how to motorize a bike, when the motor is from an old drill? I have been trying to do this for weeks, and I couldn't figure it out. This is what I have so far:I am trying to put the motor on the frame of the bike, and attach a sprocket to the end of it. The sprocket will be linked with the bike chain, coming from the rear wheel and leading to the petals (actually, the axle where the pedals used to connect). I will most certainly need a bike chain extension, so I would also like links to sites where I can get some.Also, I would like my bike to go fast AND have moderate torque, so I need a gearbox assembly.I know this is a lot of requests, so take your time. Thanks.
Topic by YummyPancakes | last reply
I had an idea for a camera stabilizer a while ago which involves some basic rules of physics. I've done some thinking on it and I can't seem to figure out if it would really work or not. It involves two principles: 1.) Torque (t=f*d) 2.) Inertia (p=m*v) ---- The idea is to combine a gimbal design found on camera "gliders" like these: -Commercial product: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/521721-REG/Steadicam_MERLIN_Merlin_Camera_Stabilizing_System.html -Homemade design: http://www.diycamera.com/stabiliser/index.html ...with some sort of see-saw to counter the effects of up-and-down motion. Ignoring the fact that this might be somewhat hard to hold such a thing, I just want to know if this would work. ---- Any balanced see-saw will have an equal amount of torque on either side of the pivot point. Therefore, a balanced see-saw will work with 500g hung 10cm from either side of the pivot point, OR 750g 5cm from one side and 250g 15cm from the other side (750*5=3750; 250*15=3750). With this concept, I thought of designing this part of the stabilizer like a small camera jib (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jib_(camera)). That is, the camera on one end with a counterweight on the other. The pivot point would have a handle or some kind of vehicle mount on it. The stabilization occurs (or so I'm thinking) because of inertia. Inertia=mass*velocity. So, when the pivot point (the handle) moves up or down, one of the sides of the see saw should move up faster than the other. The side that moves up slower (the longer side of the see saw, I'm thinking) should have the camera mounted to it. ---- Is there a flaw somewhere in my thinking? THE QUESTION: Would both sides of an uneven length, balanced see-saw move up at the same time when the pivot point is moved up or down? I'm not really sure and I'd like to hear your input.
Topic by John Smith | last reply
I got some threaded rods today. They look straight. 16 threads per inch. The tag on one of the shorter ones says 3/8" - 16x36", course threads, zinc plated 1700lb. I was planning to use these for the x,y,z control for a 3d miller/printer. I realize it may be slow. Someone mentioned that the McWire repstrap uses a 4 1/20 (the only part I understand is 20 threads per inch) was really slow, but someone made it work with 2 1/16. I did not really have plans to attempt position verification because I think the resistance vs torque should be minimal for a threaded rod setup. I figure I could get away with just sending it specific pulses for a specific amount of time. Could I have some feedback on this?
Topic by nstenzel | last reply
I have been wanting to build my own potters wheel. It would need to be cheap to build. Very cheap.... I have looked at kick wheels and Leach wheels. They will not work in my situation. They are either too big or too heavy. I rent my home and these would not be good. I started looking at banding wheels. They are small enough that I could use them on a table etc. I have seen videos of them being successfully used as wheels. I will definately try the banding wheel, but I am also interested in a potters wheel. I had an idea tonight, and that was to use a record player/turntable, but I am not sure of the torque or the RPMs. I am interested in making small pieces. like mugs and small vases, etc. Please let me know what you think. Thank you.
Question by nwerts | last reply
I'd like to add a small motor to a hand cranked coffee grinder (Hario Skerton Coffee Grinder). It's conical burr style grinder that produces a consistent particle size (much more so than the mini blender, whirlly style grinder). I'll expand on why that's important when I build the thing. My problem is that is takes 10 minutes or so to grind enough coffee for two people. I'd like to put a motor on it. I tried spinning it with a battery powered drill, but the RPMs were too high. The burr spun faster than coffee beans could feed. I'd like a motor in the 60 to 120 rpm range. I still need to determine the torque required. Additionally, I'd like to plug this right in to a 110 outlet. Does anyone have a suggestion on an appliance I could scavenge or the type of motor I should look to buy? Thanks, Mike
Topic by MikeM50 | last reply
Here's the title and abstract of a preprint that was posted to arXiv yesterday. I have no certain idea of what it all mean, and I'm a practicing physicist! I just find the ratio of unintelligible jargon to English really amusing.Monopole and Topological Electron Dynamics in Adiabatic Spintronic and Graphene SystemsAuthors: S. G. Tan, M. B. A. Jalil, Takashi FujitaComments: 21 pagesSubjects: Quantum Physics (quant-ph)A unified theoretical treatment is presented to describe the physics of electron dynamics in semiconductor and graphene systems. Electron spin fast alignment with the Zeeman magnetic field (physical or effective) is treated as a form of adiabatic spin evolution which necessarily generates a monopole in magnetic space. One could transform this monopole into the physical and intuitive topological magnetic fields in the useful momentum (K) or real spaces (R). The physics of electron dynamics related to spin Hall, torque, oscillations and other technologically useful spinor effects can be inferred from the topological magnetic fields in spintronic, graphene and other SU(2) systems.
Topic by kelseymh | last reply
I want to build a micro kart with a range of 10 miles at an average speed of about 5mph, with a reverse function. Iv been looking at blogs and Instructables for micro karts and DIY electric longboards hoping to directly copy the basic components of another project however all the projects iv found are for high speed machines that often need a bump/kick start and i need something that will happily run at consistently low speeds without an assisted start. I don't have the electronics knowhow to work out what combination of motor, battery and ESC i need but from what iv read it sounds like i might need an outrunner (?) type motor which is apparently good for low speeds and high torque. Iv been looking at the Turnigy motors on the Hobbyking website as they were recommended by a few blogs, i tried posting this question on their forums a week ago but got zero response. Could you take a look at their motor selection and recommend the appropriate combination of parts? Thanks
Topic by ambientvoid | last reply
I'm barely schooled in robotics and RC. Seems I'm searching for a needle in a haystack without the precise terminology. I'd like to turn a knob on a remote chassis. The knob presently turns manually from stop to stop approximately six times. It meters L/min of air. Low torque equivalent to about average for volume/bass/treble controls on a stereo. I'd like to be enabled to turn this knob at an indexible 1:1 ratio with a handheld remote transmitter that utilizes a likewise rotary knob. Once the servo/stepper or other is mounted axially to the chassis mounted knob and powered by a wall transformer, the hand held remote need not be indexed to match it precisely. 1/4 ID hose attaches to the unit and a L/min flow meter is attached to the remote. Rf would be highly desirable. If necessary, or practical, I'd go with a wired rotary encoder/controller to accomplish the same. I'm unable to find either option after a day of searching online. Fully willing to cannibalize existing products as well. It's sometimes much easier and cheaper way to go. Thanks
Question by brad.williamson.3110 | last reply
Right. Still hung up on this whole solar energy thing I've been looking into steam but it all seems: complicated, dangerous, expensive, and all kinds of freakin hassle. I think this is largely because people working in this field now are just trying to plug solar energy into where the fire would normally go, but in many ways light is a lot more versatile, and this might take a complete rethink. So, after twenty minutes of ill-informed and distracted thought, how about this: Two or more pistons, each with a little bit of water or other fluid. Base is thick glass, both attached to a shaft or gear to generate rotation. Concentrated light (like 6 kW worth, or whatever) is shone in through the base of one piston. The fluid vaporises and the piston expands. When it's fully extended the light beam flips over to the other piston. That one starts expanding while the first one starts contracting. you might have some sort of heat sink which is oly applied during the contraction bit. This would be fairly low speed, but should generate a fair bit of torque and would be really really simple. Someone just stole my patent, didn't they?
Topic by SolarFlower_org | last reply
Hi I wants to make arduino controlled lawn mower as my Mechanical Engineering final year project while doing so I’m facing problems such as which dc motor will be suitable for wheels and cutting blades and driving unit for these motors.,which sensors are necessary for complete automation as well as coding required while implementing all these components. It is difficult for me to finding formulae to calculate torque and power.I want to make it process automated so that bot automatically move in rectangular area and if in between it’s battery gets down it should automatically go to charging point and come back to place where it stopped cutting when battery was down. For this which coding as well as interruption required is also a doubt for me.For all these operation which battery will be useful? And its capacity Also it will be helpful if all the components required for this project will be available from any single platform. For all these it will be helpful for me if I get some Ideas from here and move ahead in my project Any other links or suggestions wil be also helpful.If kit for above mentioned specs are available please contact on my mail id firstname.lastname@example.org Thank u
Topic by pratiksarvankar | last reply
I was wondering, who would like to see a detailed instructable with step by step instructions, lots of pictures, and parts lists for how to make this powerful motorized bicycle from scratch (without a kit)? The motor is a heavily modified 79cc horizontal stroke predator engine from harbor freight. The bike has a top sustainable speed of about 40mph. It also has enough torque to accelerate uphill, take off from a standing start with no pedal assist, leave Lance Armstrong in the dust, and do wheelies even with my 29" tires. Gearing can be adjusted for higher top speed at the expense of having less acceleration and hill climbing power. (Although in all honesty, I wouldn't gear it to go much more than about 45). Other features include an automatic clutch, the ability to get 170 miles per gallon, allowing you be cooler than all your friends, and costing a fraction of what you'd pay for a vespa. If you want me to make an instructable, comment below! Also tell me whether you might actually build one, or whether you just want to see how I did it.
Topic by TheNecromancer13 | last reply
How do I replace worn out front MacPherson struts on a 98 Honda Accord; and how much would it cost me?Note; it seems I can use pre-assembled Monroe "Quick Struts"; would I still need the spring clamps if I us a quick-strut? I've heard this could be potentially dangerous; how would I minimize danger? Other things; would I need to bleed the brakes after? ( I assume yes) What's the basic idea behind that? I would need an alignment I'm going to assume, from what I hear, I can't do that at home - but can I get it "semi-right" to drive it to the shop? I have most of the tools available aside from a torque wrench. If I get a Monroe quick-strut, what other things would I replace? Any bushings/bearings/stuff that would be good to change at the same time? Personal experience, Changing oil/fixing radiator leaks/doing basic maintenance on cars (brake pads/rotors, spark plugs/ distributor cap etc) The easy stuff basically. Honda quoted me at 800, and independent quoted me at 600. I can buy those quick-struts for 180 a pop.
Question by DELETED_Phill | last reply
Can I wire 7000 lithium ion battery cells (about 75kwh) in parallel, and then use a lightweight bike engine hooked to a DC generator and connected in series to the batteries to boost voltage? Are there any flows in this design concept, for use in a hybrid race vehicle to increase the longevity of the batteries?I am trying to develop a race track car which is hybrid, thus utilizing electric motors immense torque.We build original race cars with common petrol engines but now I’m seriously thinking of developing a next generation race car. I know batteries don’t last long in high drain situations and thus any race car I sell will need a battery replacement after a race season. I’m sure this will be bad for business. Thus this is why I’m thinking of ideas to prolong the battery life by reducing current drainage. That’s why I want to have an engine generator with its sole purpose is just to boost voltage, and about 20,000ah worth of batteries connected in parallel so I reduce current demand per battery cell to well under 1C. Giving a Tesla p100d as an example I would require about 1200 amps and 400 volts to produce 480kw of power. If wire all 7000 battery cells in parallel to produce the same amount of current then each cell will need to provide about 0.18amps that’s very low to sustain longevity of the batteries. The generator is then connected in series to help boost the system voltage to 400vIn extrem simple terms, (the batteries provide the current, and the engine generator provides the voltage)I hope you understand why I’m looking at it this way. I know it might not be the most efficient way, but is it a practical doable way? Thanks
Topic by SamA196 | last reply
Using a transistor to boost the output from a quartz clock to drive a larger motor in steps. Is the idea sound what would I need? Having read a couple of instructables on equitorial drives, I found myself wondering why you couldn't just use a quartz clock movement to drive one? They don't produce much torque is the answer to that one. Why not? I took one appart to find out. The gear chain is very flimsy moulded polyethylene, or maybe nylon. the power comes from a tiny armature that makes 1 turn a second in 2 pulses the magnetic pulses are provided by a little cuircit board with the quartz ossilator on it. Here endeth my actual knowledge. My knowledge of electronics is minimal give me a good set of instructions and I can build it (unless its a joule thief but thats a different matter) but don't ask me how it works. My limited understanding of a transistor is if you put a small current or voltage across 2 pins you can get a bigger current or voltage to flow across one of them and the third, something like a relay. I was thinking if I took the out put from the quartz cuircuit that provides the magnetic pulses and used it to trigger a transistor to pulse a higher voltage and current through a small 3 pole motor kicking it around 1 pole per pulse. The motor I have a salvaged and rebuilt in an earlier instructable runs on 3V and draws 0.2A when not under load. the largest motor I have to hand is a big 7 pole one designed to power model planes or cars draws up to 15A on 7.2V the timer cuircuit for that one needed 3 Mosfet's in parralle so I'm guessing thats not possible.
Topic by Stan1y
I have an old Etch-A-Sketch Animator from 1986. The rubber membrane buttons barely work now. I would love to take this apart and clean out the buttons but the security screws in this are very weird - a funky kind of three bladed thing for which I have never been able to find a bit/driver. It's not Tri-Lobe, Tri-Wing or Tri-Groove. It's a standard pan top screw with three slots, separated in the center by a tiny "triangle". The slots come together much more closely than Tri-Groove. The ends of the slots closest to the center of the screw are more shallow than the edges closest to the diameter of the screw. A Tri-Groove might work, but I don't think the driver is going to clear the outer plastic housing. If anyone knows where I can find a bit to remove these, I'd appreciate the help! As far as advice on improvised removal techniques: Dremel techniques or any kind of "use a pair of dikes" technique won't work here because the screw is recessed by about 1.5cm in a channel that is maybe 1mm wider than the screw head. I'd like to avoid "Melt a pen" techniques to avoid damage to the casing and/or getting a pen permanently melted into the shaft. Besides, with the size of these screws (1/4 inch head?) and the age of the device, I doubt a Bic pen will have the torque necessary to pop the screws. (Keeping that under my belt as a last resort, though.) Links to a recommended Tri-Groove set with plenty of differently sized bits would be awesome as a second to last resort. There's so many and I'm a bit out of my element.
Question by inanis | last reply
Forromagnetic meterials are not just called that for no reason.It comes from ferrous - iron.Iron has the highest permeability at normal temperatures.That means a magnet is attracted to it very strongly.We utilise this for transformer cores, the stuff inside a relay and the moving latch of the relay itself.Like current from an electrical system magnetic fields like to take the easiest route possible.Air is a very bad medium, so any iron close by will be prefered even if it is at a slight distance.You can check with a magnet, a steel bar and some iron shavings - please cover the are with plate first ;)Slightly less known is the option to also guide and extend the magnetic field this way.If you check how far the magnetic field of a magnet reaches and note that distance,then you can add some steel bars or rods at the poles - the field will extend through the metal.The most powerful example of this are the shielded magnets used for hooks or speakers.Except for a tiny area the entire magnetic flux goes through the metal.So in this lefover area the magnetic flux density will my many times greater than what the magnet alone would be able to.What most people don't know is that magnets also interact with other magnets in terms of their fields changing and distorting.The Halbach Array is a good example of this.Seen as a single magnet the array would have one weak and one strong side instead of even strenght for both.Wherever magnetic fields change a conductor can produce electricity or current.This in return causes an electromagnetic field that opposes the one from the magnets.Just drop a magnet through a copper or aluminium pipe ;)Since these distortions are widely unknow to the hobby tinkerer mistakes can happen ;)In the early days of exploring science some people already knew about shielding.And they also knew that certain metals have certain properties.Where it is quite hard to create a good coil from steel wire, copper works fine as it is not magnetic.What would then a copper shielding do?If you have two moving magnets with only a tiny gap then the resulting field distortions are quite huge.A copper shield around the magnet like a pipe would then react to these changes and also create a megnetic field that works in relation to the enclosed magnet.In simple terms it means the shield would let the magnet appear weaker or stronger depending on the field change.A quite old document I found gave some hints on how people thought in different directions back then.It was in regards to the design of a magnet motor by the way.Here various magnets were shielded in tube made of a copper-bismuth-alumium alloy.These tubes were then electrically connected so it created a single loop conductor.The claim was that the resulting electromagnetic field of this ring would drive the fields of the enclosed magnets sideways out of alignment.Like bending straight pastic tubes sideways.This "pulsating" would always happen when the magnetic binding forces reach max and so basically drastically weaken this binding effect.Another document talks about a "magnetised brass rod".A holes of the rod diameter is drilled through a block magnet.Not from north to south but through the middle where the flux is greatest.The claim here was that if that rod rotates fast enough a very low voltage with a very high current will be generated.Sounds easy and interesting enough that I might have to test one myself one day.The best one however is what I consider a hoax or being as good as Starlite.Someone back in 1908 claimed to have created a material the reflects magnetic fields.In lame man's terms it would be like an insulator around some electrical wire.The claim and some pics showed it, was that no magnetic field can pass the material.Or to be correct only a tiny fraction of what would be possible through air.A small magnet inside a longer tube of this material would create almost the same attraction to steel at the tubes ends as on the magnet itself.Measurements showed the field strength would be almost equal to a long mangnet of the same field strength.Imagine guiding the field of a big and powerful magnet through a tube around some corners or other magnets and then end in just a tiny hole for the entire flux...Too bad he never shared his secret formula to anyone knows to mankind.Isolation...Imagine you have an array of changing magnetic fields and quite strong magnets.Then you might face the problem that your focus on the "working" end neglected the other end of the magnet (stack).Providing some iron core material will keep thes field lines contained and away from interfering with your setup ;)But it also allows to use te otherwise unused end of your magnets more directly.For example by guiding to another magnet to affect its field strenght ;)Placing a sheet or steel between two magnets in a setup provides a "shared pole" so to say.If you have a north and south pole on a rotor at a distance of 5mm then a sheet of steel between will drastically weaken the strenght and reach of this combined field.It is like pulling the arch between the magnets down to make it more flat.And at and an angle the resulting field will also be slightly angled ;)Capping...When I first encounter this many years ago I couldn't really make sense of it.Quite complex..If you check the magnetic field lines with iron filings or similar then you notice how they go in a rounded manner from pole to pole.This is because the single field lines are of equal polarity and will dirve apart like opposing magnets.By capping the ends of a magnet you provide a short.Instead of diverting out like mad they will follow the cap and create very intersting magnetic field in return.If both poles are capped it is like pressing the magnet flat but without having a field on top of the oles - only aorund the center part.For this the thickness much must match what is required for the flux density.As a rule of thumb: if the end is still very magnetic then it is not enough material tickness ;)Interacting fields in a tube...This one is quite old too and seemed to have found no usable inventions apart from simple magnetic spring replacement systems.But it gave me some clues about Tesla "earthquake machine" ;)If you place a magnet in a tube and at it's ends magnets with opposing fields to the one inside then you can fix this magnet in place.Push one magnet deeper and the distance from the inner magnet to the other end will shrink the same amount.In this old paper two coils were around the pipe with the inner magnet between them.In this gap and at about the same width as the magnets length another coil was placed.Violent shaking would then create electrical energy at much higher level then modern shaker torches.In return an AC current on the outer coils would cause the inner magnet to move back and forth to create electricity in the center coil.According to the paper possible uses include: core less transformer, measuring minute changes in AC voltages, providing free power from a running motor...The last one had me stumbled for a very long time.Until I considered a different configuration.The whole thing is basically a linear DC motor - with correct timing of course.And in some motors we use permanent magnets.I am starting to wonder what would happen if we would design a rotor magnet like this?The running motor would be subject to constant field changes that affect the rotor.And a normal motor is always "even".By using four magnets instead of one we can push the field really flat.This means the area where the coil would operate (about 1/5 of the magnets area) will have a much stronger field.The resulting torque should be higher by about 25% !!Even a simple two coil model setup should show a significant increase in performance here.Timing is critical here but I tried some calculations based on 8 poles and the required "on times" for the coils.In a standard motor configuration with a single rotor magnet the coil is active for about 12° of the rotation.With a 4 magnet configuration this "on time" can be reduced to under 8° of the rotation to get the same amount of torque.An energy reduction of about 4% if you neglect losses and only think in time.If you think in terms like impulse energy then we are talking of about 15% !Shorter on time but still much higher flux density overall than for the long standard timings.Going the long run now:If you check how most DC motors work then you realise soon that for most one rule seems to followed.Only use one coild pair at a time.This is quite contradictive if you consider the geometry and options.A dual commutator would allow to use a second coil pair with a field OPPOSING the magnets instead of being attracted to it.After all: on you bike you pedal with both legs and not just one...And if you do it professionally then yu do the same as I suggested for the motor - you use the up pull of your legs as well.Doing it brushless only requires amodified h-bridge desing to drive the second coil pair at the right timing.Some will now say that it requires twice the energy, I say that for the same motor size your get twice the torque!Just imagine what that means in possible weight reduction for a motor - or its size to deliver the same torque at the same power levels when a normal motor is used ;)The more poles the more complicate the precise timing but no big deal really with modern electronics.Can it be improved even further?I though long and hard about that one until I considered EMF.A DC motor produces a lot of it when the elecromagnetic field collapses in the the coils.We do not utilise this energy...There is a tiny delay until the released energy levels are at max.My theory is that it should be possible to divert this energy into another coil set.If that coil is not the next active but still within a strong enough field area then the EMF would actually add to the drive of the motor.Only downside is that according to my calculations at least 16 poles would be required to get an optimum result.Way above of what I can create in my little garage :(In theory it should then be possible to reach about 98% efficiency for the motor....
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply
I'm thinking about a new design for a cloth wringer like function. A product that will squeeze your cloth from water. Not pointing out any imperfections from a generic cloth wringer shown in the first picture but its just a thought of designing a new one since some say that the current mechanism of a cloth wringer doesn't do the job effectively or there is a separate need for a bucket for it to be attached. Anyway, the design I'm thinking of is to solve any problems that is experienced by a normal cloth wringer.I'm thinking of a new design that would include a tube that would let you insert your desired cloth and a separate cloth absorber that would absorb the water when you squeeze the tube. A picture of a tube would look like the second picture (taken from the internet, youtube aa product called "Easy Squeezy" by Vitility). However its mechanism isn't the same as the idea I have but its physical appearance is kind of the same. I can't make a new one since I still don't know how it would look like based on the mechanism I have in mind.The Easy Squeezer's mechanism includes two separate tubes and you'll need to insert your cloth inside the inner tube and close it by another tube. Then you'll need to apply a force directly into the tube so you'll be able to squeeze out the water from your cloth. As shown from the youtube demonstration video (Link:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=--tHZRMjk3Q)Thus, an idea came up and the mechanism I have in mind is you'll need the tubes just like from the "Easy Squeezer" and a separate absorbing cloth (preferrably a microfiber one). Then, you'll need to roll your wet cloth along with the microfiber cloth and insert it into the tube. After you've inserted the two rolled clothes into the tubes the mechanism would allow you to create a twisting force into the tubes and ultimately squeeze most of the water from the wet cloth while preserving an uncreased cloth. Which is illustrated from the fourtth picture. Generally, you can do the twisting yourself even without the tubes but it would take a great effort to squeeze and make it a tedious job when you're going to do it for a large amount of wet clothes. The mechanism I have in mind is for the tubes' ability to translate a larger torque (or twisting moment) into the tubes while only having to exert little force. However, the problem is I don't know how to start in the design. Any ideas and suggestions on how to improve?
Question by CzarLuc123145 | last reply
I was recently approached by someone claiming the old Newman Motor wouldn't be good for anything.Well, I was a little bit offended by this as I already had my little toy version of it as kid.At that time though it really was just a toy for me.Critics still say the Newman Motor is nothing more than some interesting machine.And even the biggest followers will admit it is not a free energy machine, just a very efficient one.I experimented with, what some call fringe science, now for about 30 years.And it all started with math and my interest in unusual ways of dealing with problems.So what's behind the challenge?The original design was suprisingly simple as you can see in the above Wiki link.Just a spinning magnet in a (split) coil.What you don't find anywhere though is real details on the how to.Sure, you need to have some sort of contact linked to the rotation and timing is critical but what does it all do?You can build a drt simple model in a few hours with stuff you might have around already.Quite a few Youtubers are happy to share their creations.The actual challenge is to come up with what Newman really did inside his drum.And also why I think it is not the full potential his machine had.Build a simple Newman motor and check for how long you can let it run on a charge super capacitor.Then sit back and read some of the other magnet stuff I wrote.After that come up with a better design ;)I started to create some 3D models that need testing once I find more free time - should take some leave one day..But for those with little patience and an interest in the Newman Motor I decided to share my current idea:For some it might be really confusing although they know motors and magnetic fields.Those just playing with magnets might have it easier for once as they can pretend they followed my thoughts ;)The original design used two coils and a rotating magnet.If you consider how the magnet creates an electromagntic field in the coils then you have to wonder right away how it can spin.And most designs will indeed need a push start to get going!You can't have electricity produced without the magnet spinning and you can't make it spin without electricity!The current from the battery or capacitor can only flow at the short moment of contact on the axle.This moment needs to be timed "mechanical" as we don't want to waste any power on not required electronics.If you ever bothered to check the timing of a Newman Motor then you realised the collapsing electromagnetic field at the moment of contact actually is in reverse to what the manget has in that position.Unlike any normal motor it means the magnet produces most of the power the coil needs to make the rotor spin!So far for the well known facts, now for my fiction:I would like to call my version the Aussie Newman Motor as all things downunder are just different ;)Here are my current desing mods, that I freely share so everyone can benefit form many years of experimenting to save a lot of time.1. Instead of two coils a not-really-bifilar coil is centered on the axle.The coil is created like two stacked relay coild that have no bobbin and a "dint" to allow the axle to pass through.Without the big gap of the original less of the magnetic field strenght is lost and the coil is far closer to a homogenous magnet.2. The timing done by salvaging a simple DC motor's contacts and brushes.This allows for far higher currents and if the salvaged motor had enough poles also for a very short "burst".3. The axle contact is made with a cleaned steel bearing.After cleaning very conductive copper based lubricant is used in tiny amounts to prevent corrosion and provide a lower resistance.The clear benefit is that with the new timing system a lot more current can flow.Initial tests with a mock up model showed an increase in run time from the capacitor of about 15% already.With proper bearings and a salvaged DC motor I hope to reach 18 to 20% more than the original design.Now why the DC motor if a reed contact or hall effect sensor would be even faster and with less resistence?Neither can handle really high currents without additional electronics ;)Plus of course I wanted to leave the door open for the Aussie Newman Motor 2020.You might now say "Why bother if the above improvements are already so great?".If you followed my elsewhere for a while then you know the Newman Motor is only 2D but I prefer 3D or more harmony if you like.Right now the imagination of people re-inventing Newman's machine is limited.They try to get on the horse from behind - literally.Fancy electronics, machined parts and so on.But they never go 3D ;)You got it? :)There is only two coils!!The magnet rotates, same as the contact on the axle.One set of coils for each contact the salvaged DC motor has.Each set aligend to the corresponding contact.And now you will ask "How do you plan to connect that to a single DC power source?Well, that is why it will be the 2020 model - my time for tinkering is sadly limited because I still need to work to support myself.But if you consider that the original as a good model can run for over 10 minutes on a supercapcitor then ask yourself how long it could run on 4 or even 8 coil sets.And although there is no such thing as "free energy": There will be still space for more coils.Or other coils to just provide electricity that does not power the motor.Critics will now see their chance and state that if we add a load to these additional coils then this will cause a strain on the system.Of course they are correct here.If, however, the load is mechanical then the motor needs to supply basically the same additional energy.Plus all mechanical losses.The question is: How much mechanical load can we add before the motor is down to the same efficiency of a very efficient DC motor? ;)And what if our Aussie Newman 2020 would actually violate the laws of physics?We can calculate how much electrical energy would be required so a given motor produces a fixed amount of torque.Or we can just measure it, the beauty of science...We can do the same in reverse of course.Let's say a mechanical pump would require 500RPM and 100Nm of torque to pump 100 liters per minute.Then we could calculate what sized motor we need to drive the thing and how much power the motor would need.So again: What if the Aussie Newman 2020 would require far less than what science makes us think and still does this job on a simple 12V lead acid batty of 4Ah?Just saying... ;)I hope to have a presentable and working 2 coil system by May, so stay tuned!In case you are faster or even beter then of course feel free to show off your results or to post a link to your Instructable so everyone can verify it.
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply
When someone starts talking about a so called magnetmotor than most people judge right away.Laws of physics, perpetuum mobile is impossible, magnets are static....We all know the limitations nature puts on us... That however did not stop quite a few people since the 1950's to build working magnet motors. Or, to be precise: To make the claim, show them and then somehow disappear. A few though seem to have survived and even claim to make good business. Securely closed machine, stellite tracking and 24/7 online monitoring. Either just a bad and long running hoax or a real attempt to keep a secret secret. Even the somewhat famous Yildiz motor showed off around the world only to disappear.Some like them, some don't. Either way all this sounds like the perfect conspirary theory LOL So lets take a look on what is fake and what might be real but missing some vital clues. You can find several good Youtube channels created by people trying to build a working magnet motor. Some of them have no problems to admit failure and still keep trying and updating their projects. Did long enough and you see two outcomes. The first is giving up or "realising" that it will never work. The second often seems like a user is getting some relly good results and is really close to keep the magnetmotor running. Both disappear without and updates or traces. Now of course this is just confirmation that it will never work, but then again: What if it did already quite a few times? Even Tesla had patents for a magnetmotor and so far none of his patents were a hoax. Although none of his patents allow to actually build a working devices without some additional info and knowledge. And that is the key that I am trying to get: The lost knowledge.How can a magnetmotor never work? That one is quite simple from the start. If a linear model won't work no matter where you start then a rotary version will fail as well. And if a linear version works, it has to do so far at least 5 segments and with preferably increasing or at least constant speed. Having said that and assuming you know a little bit about magnetism: Ever wondered about shapes of magnets?? The common types are block, round like a bar and those disk like ones, some even with holes. A less well known version is the ring magnet. You can look them up as well as their corresponding magnetic field geometry - or what is assumed to be the right geometry. To give you a clue: All those floating spinning toys use a ring magnet in the base and onother one in the spinner. In the center is a dead zone for the magnetic field that is far lower than further out on the ring. And the strnger outer fields also reach further - giving the entire spinner a bowl like area to float on, the spinning just stabilises it like a gyroscope. A similar flat disk magnet wouldn't have this indentation in the field but rather a dome like sphere. The ring just kicks a dint into this sphere if you don't mind the simpification. Similar changes in the field structure happen when you combine two or more magnets. One example we all know is stacking identical smaller magnets. And often we are suprised how much stronger two thin disk magnets are compared to a single. Distance however sets a certain limit. And take those hook magnets... Just a small ring magnet in a metal pot with core. Remove the magnet and just by itself it is far weaker. Why? Quite simple.... The same way a transformer core directs the magnetic flow, the metal part of the hook magnet provides a shortcut for the magnetic field - and in return all is much stronger ;) Now you have some more clues, but still there are tons of options for failure... The most common is the sticking effect. No matter how well you planned and designed in most cases you linear or rotary prototype will stall sooner or later. Even if started manually at high speeds some seem to run very long but once they slow down and stop it is obvious they always stop where the magnetic field won't allow the binding effect to be overcome.Wouldn't dare to say that I have a working magnetmotor, but I might have some clues you want to try if you decide to give it a try yourself. So how COULD a magnetmotor actually work? Like in the Perendiv examples all over the web, you could aloow a moving responder to the rotor. Like a piston the responder will be lifted in areas it would otherwise limit or reduce the speed of the system. Well designed only a few mm would b required but it also means wasted energy to move the responder. Then there is the nice way of modifying fields by adding magnets in different angles and polarities. Lets say towards the end of your stages on the linear model it is hard to overcome the binding effect from the end of the previous stage. The perendiv model would now somehow change the distances. But you can also add magnets to lower the binding effect ;) Like a ring or hook magnet you can shape the field and offer a stronger repulsin field or a lower binding force. Last but certainly not least is the option of adding magnetic metals like iron or somehow weirder ones like bismuth. So, do we have any examples of something very common utilising any of this? We sure do :) Take a speaker apart and you end with the cage, the membrane, the actual work coil and the magnet. We don't need anything but the magnet so take a good and very close look. What in the audio world is called a shield to prevent the magnet from messing with things close by is exactly the same as on a hook magnet ;) Only difference is the tiny gap for the coil. The magnetic field is directed into two paths, one by the metal core, the other by the inner enclosure of the magnet or the magnet itself. The coil operates in the area of maximum flux.Last hints... If you take two identical and strong magnets with north or south facing up then it is quite hard to push them very close together. But check what happens if you try the same wen both soth poles (or both north poles) are placed on a magnetic surface - if in doubt your standard fridge door. Suddenly you can move much closer together with the same amout of force (not considering the added friction!). And similar story for opposing configurations. Where in free air or on a table the magnets would just jump together, on a metal plated you can move them much, much closer before this happens. Copper pipe and magnet fun :) Ideally you would have a straight copper pipe and a cylindrical magnet that has a loose fit in the pipe. Aluminium pipe work too or even a roll of aluminium foil if you have nothing else. A magnet in the pipe will travel very slow down the pipe, friction is not an issue here. So what is slowing it down? The magnet creates a field in the pipe and through that the pipe generates electicity. And funny enough this electricity creates an opposing magnetic field in the pipe - the magnet slows down. Even if you glue it onto a wooden stick it won't rush through it. Trying to push it by hand and you feel the created resistance. The faster you push, the harder it is to push! If you made it all the way down here with the reading then I have to assume you fit into one of three of my categories. a) You are a total sceptic and just read it for your amusement. If so, then please don't post a reply with usual negative feedback, instead see it as the same fun you had reading it ;) b) You are at least curious and like to play with magnets. In this case take the above as inspiration to explore more ways to have fun with your magnets! c) You are more or less frustated because you wasted a lot of time and some money to build a magnet motor that just won't work. A and B might go on and enjoy the fun, C however might want to read very attentive now ;) If you take some indicator sheet for magnetic fields, like these funny green ones, and play with moving magnets then you see a very interesting effect on the "screen". The otherwise static field lines change chape and sometimes even seem to disappear or shrink. With a small rotor assembly it almost looks like flashes when the magnets move past each other. This effect is often totally neglected and to be honest I overlooked it for a long time as well. Being able to see how the magnetic field changes gives the thing an whole new dimension so to speak. Creating a magnet with a complex shape is difficult to say the least. Only ferrite or ceramic ones can be used and you would cut of machine them according to your desired shape and with regards to the orginal center of the magnetic field. So most people revert to the classic way of shaping by adding magnets of various types, sizes and amounts. Modern neodymium magnets make this trial and error process easier as there are many sizes and strengths available. Add a detector shield of suitable size and you have hours of fun time ahead of you. But doing so in any rotary assembly is next to impossible. So what did Yildiz differently and what was missed so many times? Yildiz took it a step further and not only provided "shunts" to create very strong magnetic field from the generated electricity but also a second rotor. Since we all start small lets focus on the basics first. Remember the hook magnet and speaker or the copper pipe? Some examples for shape shifting your otherwise static magnetic fields: 1. A magnetic metal "connection" from one (low in the armature) pole to an opposing (high in the amature) pole with cause the field from the "high" pole to "bend" towards the connected magnet. 2. A magnet with an orientation of 90° to the last magnet is the sequence will severely influence the field of this last magnet! This goes for either orientations! 3. Adding a non-magnetic "shield" around a magnet, like a piece of copper pipe, will not affect the static field of the magnet. However it will severely alter the field of the enclosed magnet when another magnet passes it! It will also affect the overal field during the passing as the moving magnet will also induce a field in the copper by affecting the field of the enclosed magnet! Thickness and lenght of the shield influence the strength of these effects. 4. In a simple perendiv motor design the bar that creates the attraction for the spinning part is a magnet too. Either a long bar type or two small ones with an iron or nickel rod between them. There is no need for a piston or something that drives the bar up or out of the way ;) Just use the right magnet at the right spot on your rotor to repell the bar ;) Mount the ar with suitable springs and you suddenly can have multiple stages on your rotor instead of just the usual one! Don't forget the moving magnet on the opposing side of the segment in question though as otherwise you still will get stuck. (Hint: You can place a small but powerful magnet in the center of the opposing bar ;) Just make sure you limit the springs movement so the bar won't be pulled closer)Ok, hold on now! Does a magnet motor actually work or not? I can only give hints and say the laws of physics as we know them apply to magnetmotors the same way as everything else. Unlimeted motion without supplying energy is not possible. Limited motion with adding or using energy however is still possible and real. The same is true for being able to machine, 3D print or otherwise manufacture at very tight tolerence and accuracy levels. This includes bearings or bearing systems with very little friction losses. Just check these floting and rotating magnet toys that look like a spindle. Only a tiny needle like pin makes contact with a glass surface - next to no friction loss. A proper and supposedly working magnet motor should provide more energy than what it uses - one way or the other. No law of physics lets us get around the fact that such a motor could only keep spinning if the produced power or motion energy is at least the same as what is required to make it move. Magnets lose their strenght over time, they are like a very slowly depleting battery. So, isn't it funny that all magnet motors so far that claimed to work also had the requirement to replace the magnets once the things fails to work or start? And if you leave a very strong neodymium magnet shielded from outside fields or magnetic stuff than your grandkids will still find a quite strong magnet. Do a little performance test with your new magnets, like how much force is required is required to lift them off a steel plate. Make the same test with the magnets once you played around extensively with them in your motor. Now take a spare magnet that was never used from the orginal batch and compare both against each other ;) If the motor would not use energy then why are the magnets depleted to a certain degree, realted to runtime and usage time? Wait a minute! Does that now mean it actually works? Lets just say energy is certainly used. We only know similar effects from electromagnetic systems. But did anyone ever really check how much actual energy is in magnetic field generated by a non electric magnet? Get a good sized N52 neodymium magnet and check how much force is required to pull it off a steel surface. Now try to get the smallest sized electromagnet capable of that force and check how much energy it consumes at the level that equals the pulling force of the N52 magnet ;) Makes no sense to even try to compare these you will say now. I just say energy is energy and we were formed to only think in certain ways and don't even try silly things like this ;) To keep the fun up let us imagine we would actually have a similar energy available than what our electro magnet would require. In reality more because we wouldn't have electrical or flux related losses in the metal around the coil. Or is the imagined reality, no clue ;) If true it would mean even a motor with very bad efficiency would be able to create huge amounts of torque. Well, torque is basically acceleration. Which would mean our motor would not just be happy to spin, it would speed up until the bearing fail or the thing is ripped apart. Imagine a dental drill of that size and weight suddenly falling apart at full speed... Every example of motors claimed to be working, that are not fakes, seem to be happy no matter what the load is. It the thing turns a generator than it would have to slow down a bit with the increased load but they don't. With no limited factors otherwise this makes them a fake. Even a perfect motor would have to react to load changes.... Don't we agree that the stronger the magnetic force or field in a conductor the stronger the resulting magnetic and opposing field of the conductor? We use the difference to either drive a motor or take out electricity... But if you take the "open" shielding of a magnet in a changing field than the influence of the shield on the overall field gets stronger with stronger field changes. And properly desinged and orientated they would actually double as a natural limiter for the rotation speed. Once the electrical energy in the shield becomes too strong it will be able to cancel out the field of the enclosed magnet...If we assume a magnet motor is really possible and works with the intended output to keep it spinning or even take energy out: Then what would be possible downfalls that stop this thing happening in everyones garage? We can explore the stars but so far no one bothered to invent anything to visualise magnetic field in a 3 dimensional way other than by simulation. No realtime and true observation like this. The few working technologies that exist rely on sensors, interpretaion and filling in gaps. But imagine something like a detector shield as cloud! And then even better with selctive spacing to get a realtime view of where exactly the field lines go. All we can do is forget our teaching and try it out anyway ;) If by some mistake a magnet motor would really work right away, then chances are high the inventor would wonder why that thing takes off like mad and how to stop it. Unless well prepared it would certainly end in the destrution of the motor. But the inventor would know what to look for in the next prototype. The logical conclusion would be to the couple the energy taken to the speed while physically limittin the free load speed. The other one would be the design the electrical generator around the and within the motor. To even get close to this point you would have to spend endless days and nights working on finding a solution. The closer you get the more disappointment when the final model still fails to keep spinning for more than a few hours. Most people will then accept defeat and move on... Still not saying it actually works but if you made it to this point in time where it could be easier to move on and do other things:Ever wondered what would happen if you "shield" a magnet with a coil? Of course nothing would happen as we know. But try this in some fixed assembly that allows you move another magnet through the field of the shielded one. Perferably witha force gauge or some option to read out the energy required to move it through the various stages of the field. See what happens if you short the coil or add a resistor to it ;) Now if this coild is able to produce electricity then the more we use the more the effects on the required force would change. What do you think would happen if you combine common coil relations of electric motors to a "coil shielded" magnet motor? Right, all these coils would interact with the magnetic fields of the coils they are connected to... And through that with the overall field surrounding the enclosed magnet..... I leave up to you to imagine how these interacting coils could provide "resistance" or "acceleration"/"surplus electricity"...Like they say: You can only find out if you try ;) To keep up the positive thinking: A permanent magnet just sticks to any magnetic surface and does so with the same force. But the real energy loss in terms of getting weaker can almost be neglected. Any electromagnet capable of the same holding force woul require ongoing energy supplies to keep it up. It is using energy the same way the permanent magnet does! The difference is the permanent magnet is not seen as anything that would provide us with energy.... And if it can't provide energy other than passing through coils then why the heck does it keep sticking to the fridge year after year? It does require energy to keep this weight up doesn't it, even if you add a thin teflon disk and oil to reduce friction? ;) No magic, no "free energy" bogus, just plain physics viewed from a slightly different angle than what we learn in school ;) Have a good laugh and a good beer, then read it again and just consider some of the things here that are not mentioned in any literature about magnetism that we commonly use. Now I got you thinking, didn't I ? ;)
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply