Does anyone know a place local (Target, Walmart, Home Depot) where I can buy this, or a water balloon slingshot? Please help and fast, I need this by tomorrow!
Question by KnexFreak360 | last reply
I was makeing some speakers and the cut i was doing turned out wrong so i managed to adjust the cut and came out with these funky shapes i dont really want to make speaker tubes out of them.. iv got glass, coloured strip lights, led`s,strobe, mirror ball motor,wood,and speakers but you know that already there 315mm dia x 2foot... twist 1`s are abit longer
Question by andybuda | last reply
Hello, I'm looking to make a prototype and I need to have a thick ( 1/8 of in) glass tube threaded at one end about a 1/4-1/2 in. up so I can screw on a cap. How would I go about getting that done or have one custom made for me? Can anyone help?
Question by haz630 | last reply
Can i fit a 700x28-35 inner tube on a 700x45 tyre. my common sense says no its first tyre ive needed to change tho so i went halfords got told a 700x45 sounds more like a motor bike tyre and was sold 700x 28-35. just checking before open them and cant get a refund.
Topic by adonoghue | last reply
So, i'd like to take the idea of a vortex tube and make it larger. much much larger. If i were to use a 3-4 inch pipe, how long would it have to be, and would i be able to supply it with a high power blower (centrifugal), or would i have to find some way to provide 80-120psi at a huge volume? i leave my question to the community!
Question by kretzlord | last reply
Does anyone know of any good steel tubing suppliers. I need a few different sizes, all of which cannot be found at any local hardware store, in square and rectangular shapes. Also, I found one supplier already and they had so many sizes to choose from. But they only ship large quanities to companies, not to the individual. So if anyone knows of any suppliers that can supply the following sizes for a decent price, your help would be very much appreciated. The sizes I need are 40mm square with 2.5mm wall, 25.4mm square with 2.5mm wall, 20mm square with 2mm wall, 40X20mm with 2mm wall, 35X16mm with 1.5mm wall.
Question by bombmaker2 | last reply
I am looking to brand my own products for my store. The products are small tube batteries about the size of a sharpie's body. They come in two materials, a plastic/rubber material that is difficult to scratch/dent but has a soft feel and the other is a stainless or anodized metal. I see two possibilities for branding but need help figuring out how to accomplish the desired effect. 2) I transfer my logo onto the tube by rolling it over a stamp with an ink/epoxy of some sort ( *magic ink* product unknown)\ 3) I get decals printed/made and transfer them onto the material. I don't know much about decals or permanent printing liquids, and would like to hear from you what you think! Please check out the attached picture as well
Question by jordanbork | last reply
I am in serious NEED of information on HOW TO TURN PLASTIC WATER BOTTLES INTO SMALL BRICKS, BLOCKS, TUBES. I am moving to a very poor island where I need to bring this process to the islanders. The horrible poverty is now compounded even worse by all the plastic on the island that that has NO WHERE to go (the government does nothing). If I can find a way to do the above, in a very small, rough manner (IE: men using machetes' to chop up bottles) it will IMPROVE THE LIVES OF THOUSANDS OF HURTING PEOPLE. Thank you in advance for helping me to help them....I will take ALL I CAN GET. Selling my lake home in Wisconsin this summer and will be gone for good by Fall 2009. Give me something to take with me by then....OK? Ma Barley
Topic by scubagal | last reply
So there's this project I'm working on, and I need to be able to taper (or round off) some 1/4 inch clear vinyl tubing (figure 1). I tried using heat to taper the tubing, but all that did was make it the opposite and be enlarged (figure 2). What I'm trying to do is round it off (figure 3), I already tried sanding the tubing, and I tried shaping it with heat, but to little success. Does anyone know an easy and effective way to achieve something like what figure 3 shows? Preferably using (more or less) household items/tools.
Question by techno guy | last reply
What do you think about making a bike out of polypropylene tubes? Yes, that ones that you use for water in your home. Here is a picture if you don''t know what I'm talking about: http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSlt1l1TJBvDnuc8kboERt8aULrcyFnvraA9b28m7Aii4rsIpqqhQ Obviously the design won't be like normal bikes. It will be more reforced. My questions are: 1-How wide the tube needs to be? 2-How I joint them? I want to do the frame for an electric bike. It will be a lot lighter than welded steel. Thank you. Regards.
Topic by faacuunndoo | last reply
I've bought and cut some lengths of mild steel tube to make chimes for a doorbell. Mild steel has a nice ring to it, which is why I bought it instead of aluminium, but it has already started rusting, so I was thinking of tinning the tube before I build the whole thing. My question is mainly how to clean it properly before I tin it. The outside I can do with wire wool but not the inside. I was thinking of just using vinegar to etch away the rust and then give it a good wash before putting it in the tinning solution. Is this likely to work ok? Also any tips on the actual tinning process would be useful. As far as I know you just make up the solution and then put the tube in it for a set amount of time, but I've never done it before, so it would be good to hear from someone who's tried this.
Question by ganglion | last reply
I am trying to make a DIY CNC machine, using linear rails and the expert advice in the many awesome instructables out there on this topic. I hit my first roadblock, and I need some help/advice please... The 16mm steel tubes I ordered for the sliding rails wouldn't fit in the 16mm linear slide bearings SCS16LUU that I ordered, they are ever so slightly too big. With a lot of force I could get the rail in the bearing, but it wouldn't slide without extreme force - certainly not the smooth sliding motion it's supposed to be! I've probably ruined the bearings by forcing it in, but I'm not worried about that so much right now (I have spare bearings). I broke out the digital callipers, and the rail diameter measured 16.3mm - that's .3mm more than expected, and more than can fit in the 16.0mm bearings. So now I need to reduce the steel rails by 0.3mm. I have only hand tools at my disposal, and no experience accurately reducing steel rod diameter. I guess another alternative is increasing the slide bearing diameter, but these are sealed bearing units and difficult to get at. Does anyone have any ideas ? Would it be easier to order new steel? Please let me know any thoughts on this, I'm desperate here. Thanks in advance,
Question by srah1 | last reply
Assuming the wattage is the same. I have some 15" fluorescent tubes. Will they work in fixtures made for longer tubes if the wattage is the same?
Question by conrad141 | last reply
I need to make a small inner tube for a project. I cannot get a custom one made at a smaller size. The length of the tubing should be just 110 mm. i have to use a valve that is made of rubber, plastic or stainless steel ( last option) . The tube goes into a magnet, so i have to be careful that the valve i use must not be iron or any attracting materials. Is there a possibility to make it at home.
Question by Solidwrks | last reply
Hi, I'm building a wind tunnel, and want to achieve a more laminar flow. I've tried drinking straws but they seem to stop the air flow too much. So I made a much larger bore honeycomb with toilet roll tubes. That worked a lot better, so now I'm after something a little better looking. Does anyone have any ideas for where to source a few meters of thin wall plastic tubing? About 25mm -> 35mm diameter. Transparent would be ideal. Thanks!
Question by matthewvenn | last reply
I guess this question has two parts. I'm prototyping a solar energy device, part of which is a light pipe to transport the collected solar energy, about 300 - 2500 nM. I'm planning on making this from a flexible tube filled with a highly refractive liquid, stoppered at each end with clear plugs. It looks like the materials I should be using are: Tube: Teflon (PTFE, FEP, AF 1600, AF 2400) in that order of desireablitity, lowest to highest. The AF 2400 has a refractive index of 1.29, which is the lowest of any polymer. Apparently. Core: Mineral oil / liquid paraffin. Plugs: Acrylic or normal glass. Thoughts? Also, where would you suggest I try to find these? (I have the mineral oil already) Keeping in mind that I'm in Madrid, Spain. Getting this to work would make a huge difference to solar microgeneration, as transporting the energy is currently a bit of a nightmare. Thanks heaps, Daniel.
Topic by SolarFlower_org | last reply
Can I get a 700x25 tire and tube and put it on a bike wheel that has a 700x38c tire and tube in it?
Topic by Bikeshoe | last reply
I'm trying to build a "on body" harness rig and I need to find some sort of joint connector that allows the steel tube to rotate up and down. It should rotate like a beach chair or the lid on a laptop, but I need it to lock in place where ever I stop rotating it. The circumference of the steel tubing is about the circumference of a finger. The steel is also lightweight and almost feels like aluminum. Does anyone know where would I find a steel tube joint connector that would do the trick?
Question by steelofreeka | last reply
You could tack/spot weld a small size of tube steal a (1/2" or 1") underneath the bottom side of the angle iron @ the 90 degree bend. This would make the Lathe rails/bed a lot stronger. Tube Steel would be the best option because it wouldn't bend or Flex like Roll Steel might. You can hold a long say a 10' piece of roll steal up and you can see it bow some. Then hold a 10' piece of Tube Steel up and compare the difference of bow in the two. Angle iron would be a second choice. PK
Question by Paul King
Is it possible to build a cathode ray tube and observe the path of electrons in a combined (or linked) cloud chamber? I would want to apply a uniform magnetic field to the cloud chamber but not the CRT so that electrons travel in a straight line into the chamber and are subsequently deflected. Oh, and ideally using materials that were available in 1917! Thanks in advance.
Topic by boroman | last reply
I have a new idea about a new type of positive displacement vacuum pump. Its of the piston variety, but instead of a one way valve which doesn't work when the pressure gets low enough, another piston is used to act as a valve switching between the vessel to be evacuated (when the main piston is pulling a vaccum) and the atmosphere (when the piston pushes the air evacuated out). This solves the one way valve problem. Could this pull a much lower vacuum? I need a fairly strong vacuum, but I don't want to have to build/buy a turbomolecular pump. Also, i have a metal lathe, that's why i'm going with the piston variety.
Topic by guyfrom7up | last reply
I'm looking for skinny brass tubing that fits inside 1/2 in CPVC. It needs to be air tight but still slide without too much force. (and where to get it)
Question by DBMods | last reply
What material, size and thickness of tubing (pvc, abs, copper) would be necessary to fit a 40 mm airsoft grenade inside of. It would need to be either 40mm exactly or slightly larger, although I'm not sure how much larger it could be.
Question by travisttt | last reply
I am looking at moving some Antifreeze around in some tubing. http://www.homedepot.ca/product/svge10-3-8-inches-od/925278 is the one i have. Would i be able to put something like Prestone thru it with out damaging it or causing it to leak? Also, part of the system is going to be made out of copper tubing if that can be an issue also.
Question by andreblue | last reply
I have a bunch of F15T8 fluorescent tubes, and I want to make my own light fixture with something like 4-8 of them running at the same time. Doing some research has shown me that I need a ballast. Nearly all of the ballasts I found online for f15t8 were only for 1 or 2 lamps, and I don't really want to buy more than one. Is there any way I can use a ballast rated for a higher watt bulb or something? What happens if you put a F15T8 in a F32T8 ballast?
Question by conrad141
I want step by step instructions on how to do a 12ax7 Tube mod to a Big Muff Pi. I also want a wiring diagram, supplies, things you'll need, and anything that will help for the project. Thanks
Question by andrewc9
Had it for 5 years, never could figure out the best thing to do with it, but it is too cool to pitch. It's the thing you put your money in and watch WHOOSH away. I've attached a pic of someone who turned it into a handbag.
Question by blorgggg | last reply
My headphones' mic is flexible like this: http://i.imgur.com/wv4Jq.jpg You can bend it anyway you like and it (sort of) keeps its shape. What is this thing (the pipe/tube) called? Also, where can I get something like that of a larger size, or, are there instructables on how to make your own?
Question by evolvingsoap | last reply
I'm thinking about a new design for a cloth wringer like function. A product that will squeeze your cloth from water. Not pointing out any imperfections from a generic cloth wringer shown in the first picture but its just a thought of designing a new one since some say that the current mechanism of a cloth wringer doesn't do the job effectively or there is a separate need for a bucket for it to be attached. Anyway, the design I'm thinking of is to solve any problems that is experienced by a normal cloth wringer.I'm thinking of a new design that would include a tube that would let you insert your desired cloth and a separate cloth absorber that would absorb the water when you squeeze the tube. A picture of a tube would look like the second picture (taken from the internet, youtube aa product called "Easy Squeezy" by Vitility). However its mechanism isn't the same as the idea I have but its physical appearance is kind of the same. I can't make a new one since I still don't know how it would look like based on the mechanism I have in mind.The Easy Squeezer's mechanism includes two separate tubes and you'll need to insert your cloth inside the inner tube and close it by another tube. Then you'll need to apply a force directly into the tube so you'll be able to squeeze out the water from your cloth. As shown from the youtube demonstration video (Link:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=--tHZRMjk3Q)Thus, an idea came up and the mechanism I have in mind is you'll need the tubes just like from the "Easy Squeezer" and a separate absorbing cloth (preferrably a microfiber one). Then, you'll need to roll your wet cloth along with the microfiber cloth and insert it into the tube. After you've inserted the two rolled clothes into the tubes the mechanism would allow you to create a twisting force into the tubes and ultimately squeeze most of the water from the wet cloth while preserving an uncreased cloth. Which is illustrated from the fourtth picture. Generally, you can do the twisting yourself even without the tubes but it would take a great effort to squeeze and make it a tedious job when you're going to do it for a large amount of wet clothes. The mechanism I have in mind is for the tubes' ability to translate a larger torque (or twisting moment) into the tubes while only having to exert little force. However, the problem is I don't know how to start in the design. Any ideas and suggestions on how to improve?
Question by CzarLuc123145 | last reply
Hi,I need some very large pipe, between 45 cm and say 90 cm. I just need about 150 cm length- again, fairly flexible here. either thin metal or even better probably, fairly thin plastic (say 2-4mm walls if in plastic.) NOT CORROGATED. And, ideally (pretty vital really but looking a bit bleak to find this) made in the same way as a loo roll: with one or two pieces of material that twist around each other so that the pipe has curving spiral joint along its length. Any ideas much appreciated, I don't know where to begin really. What industry should I phone up and annoy with enquiries? I 'll try builders surplus yards I guess, and I thought people who dig up roads and replace water pipes might have stuff.. Or direct from manufacturers, although so far everything I look at is just straight tube, not made in the spiralled way I'm after. CLUES PLEASE !!! Thanks, Georgie
Question by georgiemaker | last reply
So i have this idea, my car came stock with cold air intake, but i want to take it a little farther and do a Ram air intake (the air gets shoved in the car as you drive) what kind of tubing should i use? i have this plastic kind of dryer tubing and some pipe rings (adjustable) would that work? or should i use metal dryer tubing?
Topic by Yerboogieman | last reply
Hi everyone! Someone gave me a small electric project and one of the part is now broken:( Its part of a heart beat monitor... there was 2 tubes like like plug into the machine. How the machine worked ; When you were touching the 2 tubes with your hands, its automatically started to pulse light (in the 2 tubes) It then synchronise with your heart beat. Now, I cant figue out How a kind of neon like this could DETECT AND GLOW at the same time?!?!?! The two output connector ARE SHORTED TOGETHER! And the big question is: WHAT IS THIS part!! i would like to replace it. It doesnt look like a neon, not even a lamp! so...??? I think its a kind of laser diode inside. You dont see very well on the picture, but inside the white ring on the top of what i think maybe is a laser diode, is empty, theres a hole the rest of the white glass tube is empty. Its the top part of the tube (dont see in the picture) is broken.
Topic by johnybody | last reply
How would you go about titling and registering a scratch built (Like, from tubing and such) electric vehicle? Since it would be made from scratch, it wouldn't have any VINs. Thanks.
Question by Zem | last reply
Fluorecent light wiring diagram:Could anyone help me with a wiring diagram for a fluorescent light, double tube, tube have 2 ins each side, two starters a capacitor and a ballast with two wires. I have all the parts but don't know how to join them together?
Question by Sa Wolf | last reply
I am creating a vacuum chamber with an acrylic tube that is 4 inches in diameter and 1/4 of an inch thick. How would I determine the pressure limits of my pipe? Is there a formula for pipes of arbitrary size and materials? Much thanks.
Question by TheIronHobo | last reply
I am making a shoe drying rack and I need something that can pump a decent amount of air through a 1/2 inch tube. Does anyone have suggestions on what I can use and how I can hook this up?
Question by sblaptopman | last reply
I want to create a two layer coffee table. I've got the idea in my head, but haven't found the right materials. The fiberglass layers both have 4 holes (approximately 3/8" diameter - I can be more exact if necessary) drilled in each corners. The two layers would be separated by 4 metal tubes/pipes (~ 18"?) made of stainless steel or brushed nickel or the like. The top layer is held onto the 4 tubes by some sort of screw with a flat head that's bigger than the hole diameter. The bottom layer is held on by some sort of furniture "feet" that screw into the tube from the opposite side. Any ideas on what I can use for the top screw, the tube, and the foot? One such assembly for each corner, of course. The more exact the answer the better. Thank you, Chris
Question by caj9064 | last reply
This is my first real foray into DIY so help me out here. My original design, which didn't work very well, was to fill some coiled-up tubing with the gel from that blue ice stuff you use to keep lunchboxes cool, then mount that near the top of a bucket and keep a fan running over it to blow moist air onto the cold tubing and, theoretically, it would condense out. When I left in the morning it was definitely getting lots of condensation, and I even saw a bit dripping off into the bucket, but by the time I got back in the afternoon the whole thing was bone dry. Is there any way to make this freezer-gel-tubing idea work? I think part of the problem was that I used rubber tubing, not thinking about how it acts as an insulator, and I also suspect that keeping a fan on it did as much harm as good what with the whole evaporation thing, but I thought real dehumidifiers used fans too... Ideas?
Question by TheJenx | last reply
Alright need some help. im wanting to fill a bunch of test tubes with the fluid from glow sticks for my halloween costume this year. but for some reason after removing the fluid from the glow sticks and putting it in the tubes it does not stay lit for very long at all. im talking anywhere from 3-4 mins to 60 seconds. i have tried breaking the inner container before and after putting it into the test tube, and for some reason mixing the two after seems to have a longer life. moving and shaking the test tubes does cause the mix to glow for less time and im going to be wearing them so i cant have this. does any one have any kind of knowledge if this area? i could really use your help. any ideas on how to fix the life span?
Topic by pearce606 | last reply
Bicycle front fork cracked on the steering tube from overtightenting. Its just a plain old fork that is all steel with no shock and not bicycle specific, I just use on my daily rider. Should I get it welded? Brazed?
Question by anthonyfsoos | last reply
Picture a threaded rod, with a hex nut on it. The rod is inside a hollow tube. You move the nut down the rod by inserting an outside hex wrench into the hollow tube from the top. But what if you only have access to the rod from the side, through a hole in the tube (which is fixed and can't rotate around the rod)? Is there a way to tighten a nut down a threaded rod from the side through a hole in a tube? Context: the application would be a grip for a fencing weapon. The base of the blade of a fencing weapon turns into a threaded rod (the tang). The bell guard (metal disc to protect your hand) has a hole in the middle, and is inserted onto the tang. The standard grip is a straight tube-ish thing (usually solid except for a hole the diameter of the tang). You stick the tang through the central hole in the grip. Then you stick a nut on the end of the tang (which just extends beyond the end of the grip) and tighten the whole assembly down. Some special grips are curved, which means that you have to bend the tang in a curve to match the grip first in order to fit it onto the tang. Another kind of grip is straight and hollow, with a plate with a central hole over the end butting against the bell guard, to give the nut a surface to press against, and the tang is cut much shorter than the grip, and you tighten the grip with an outside hex wrench from the back end of it, as I described initially. The advantage is that a shorter tang weighs a lot less, and the weight savings can be really good in fencing. I want to combine the advantages of these two types of grips- a curved grip, which is hollow and lightweight, with a tang that is shorter than the grip itself. Obviously, it would be impossible to tighten the hex nut through a curved grip, hence my question.
Question by KattB5 | last reply
I stay in the northern area of India and have been using different types of heaters for warming a room. The one i feel s the most effective is halogen heater since they don't dehydrate the room like the others, but commercial heaters are ... how should I put this ??? SISSY ... they have only 2 - 3 halogen tubes and they don't heat the room fast enough. I planning to make one with 6 tubes. Any inputs ? any things i need to be careful about ??
Question by justdeepankar | last reply