Simple UV curing station for SLA printed things for less than $25 (not including filament). Can fit objects up to 6 inches in height and 6 inches diameter.

Can be powered by a simple 12V power supply. I actually use the power supply that came with the Elegoo Mars since it's 12V. No power supply needed for the turntable as it has solar panels and will work when the lights are on.

BE CAREFUL with UV lights! Don't look at the beam for too long or too close as it can burn your cornea! If you feel like sandpaper in your eyes, it's too late. You've been warned.

Supplies

UV LED strip — https://amzn.to/3SdgL97

Turntable — https://amzn.to/2Z2P34P (no batteries required, the UV light powers it)

Barrel plug — https://amzn.to/2PtM4iJ (optional)

CFPLA (my favorite filament for practical prints) — https://amzn.to/3yVdLHx

Step 1: Print the Parts

I recommend a sturdier filament since it's a practical print. I used Carbon Fiber reinforced PLA (https://amzn.to/2tkkbkq) but you can use ABS or PETG too.

No supports needed, just lay the bottom, top and door flat on the bed. The walls need to be printed in it's intended upright position with plenty of perimeters (probably best if it's all perimeters). You can cut down print time using a 0.6 nozzle.

Step 2: Attach UV LED Strips

The LED strips come with a sticky backing and it sticks to the PLA super easy. I cut up the roll of LEDs into strips that go from side to side, interrupted by the door's opening. But you can also do any other configuration also. As long as you cram the whole length of the roll in there you should be fine. The turntable will make sure the light hits the curable object from all sides so even if the light is on a single side it still works.

Next, you want to make sure the strips are connected. I soldered wires that connect the strips in a serial fashion. Just make sure that + is soldered to + and - to -. Check for continuity as you go along.

Step 3: Assembly

All there is left is to attach the bottom, door, and top to the walls section (in that order). The bottom part is a hexagon and can be oriented in a couple different ways - the intended orientation is so that the square in the middle is facing the door opening parallel (see pic).

The turntable needs to be dropped into the rectangle on the bottom part, no need for fastening.

Caution is advised with the door hinges as they can break off under too much force. Can be easily modded to replace them with metal rods later on (mine still holding up fine though).

Step 4: Use Tips

I usually add a piece of aluminum foil on the top of the turntable so that I don't have to worry about the resin sticking to the top of the turntable. I haven't figured out the least amount of curing time needed, but as a good measure I leave my prints in there for at least 30 mins to an hour and they come out all nice and cured.

Have fun curing your creations!