Please let us begin by thanking you for taking the time to view this instructable. We have created this to give you (the customer) the confidence and know how to make your vehicle a one of a kind light show.

If you are viewing this you have either already purchased a set of our Color Change Halo Pod lights, or you are trying to decide if you want to take on this task. Whatever the case is SeaToughLED is wants you to feel comfortable knowing that we are here every step of the way for you. If you feel that you still have questions about the install, confused on a specific step or just have a question in general you can always contact us at our website

www.SeaToughLED.com

click on the contact us page, fill out the info and we will get back to you as soon as possible.

****Disclaimer ****

this intractable is intended as a reference guide for your installation. with all the different pods out there it is very common that the one shown here will not be the same as yours so slight modifications are required. In this install we are using a generic 12watt CREE LED POD purchased from Ebay. We did this so that customers know that these rings are not limited to SeaToughLED pods. (Although it is a much easier install with our pods). SeaToughLED is not responsible for any damage that occurs during install. There is no warranty on our Halos as this can be an advanced install for some.

Installation can take 20 min to 1hr depending on level of experience.

Okay well enough of the formalities lets get on to the build.

Step 1: What You'll Receive in the Mail.

When you purchase the SeaToughLED Halo Kit there will be 3 items included

1) x2 3" color change Halo rings with 4 pin connector ends

2) 1 SeaToughLED Die Cut sticker (Default is white) other options are black, green or red.

Please specify a different color in comments section when checking out

3) SeaToughLED Koozie.

You are going to want to keep your beverage of choice cold while doing this install.

All Halos are shipped in a flat rate Priority mail box guaranteed 1-3 business days

Step 2: Tools Needed

1) Fine Tooth Saw

Typically you will need to trim your Lens in your pod down a bit so the halo will fit under the seal. You can use anything from a pvc cutter, dremel, chop saw(slight overkill), We use a bandsaw and a metal cutting blade with very fine teeth this prevents chipping of the lens. You can use whatever your favorite cutting device is. We do not recommend a cutting torch

2) Wire strippers

Standard wire strippers are fine. You will want ones that can cut at least 20awg stranded. You can always use your teeth worst case scenario.

3) Heat Source

You will need something to shrink your shrink wrap i.e Lighter, blow torch, hair dryer, Heat Gun

4) Shrink Wrap

3/16" shrink wrap works perfect preferably 2"- 2.5"

5) Allen key

Typically the screws on the face of pods are a 2.5mm hex head. You can buy these individually from any hardware store.Your screws might vary in size.

6) 3/16" Drill bit

7) Loctite Super Glue ** IMPORTANT**

*** It must be Loctite brand**** They are the only glue that actually breaks down the first layer of plastic to properly bond the ring to the lens. No others we found will work. you can use the slow set or gel but we have found the red bottle to be most successful

8) Cutting pliers (Dykes)

You're going to need to cut the screw that holds the lens we have found these to make quick cuts. Again you can grind it off dremel it or whatever you like but it will need to be shortened

9) Ruler (Optional)

10) Screw driver

In this particular install the screw holding the lens is a phillips head. This is not the case for all some our hex head, some our star, and some are flat.

11) Drill

Preferably something with adjustable speed and torque

12) Beverage of choice...

Do not forget your Koozie

13) Silicon / Sealant

Step 3: Remove Pod Face

Take your Allen key and remove the 6 screws on the face of the light.

Tip* we cut a Allen key to fit in our drill and set the speed on 2 with a torque on 7

Why?

A lot of the screws used in these pods are a very soft metal. Sometimes the screws will bind with the housing and if not enough torque is applied you will strip the head of the screw right out and you will end up drilling them out.

Our recommendation

If you cannot get the allen key into the drill. Make sure your allen key is brand new and when you go to remove the screw give it a swift turn as to apply as much torque as possible in the event the screw is stuck.

Your friends might judge you for manhandling such a tiny screw but it is well worth it. You do not want to have to drill these out.

Step 4: Disassemble the Pod

Typically there are 5 parts to a pod

1) Housing

2) Face Plate

3) Plexiglass

4) Seal

5) Lens

pull them all apart and set to the side. You will be working on the housing first.

The screw holding the lens in place may vary. This one had a phillips head.

Step 5: Drill the Hole

You will need a place for the wires to run through the housing.

Take your drill and 3/16" drill bit and measure in 1/2" to 5/8" from the face of the pod

Use your best judgement here. If it looks like when you drill through you're going to hit something do not drill there just adjust your dimensions.

Tip: set your drill to speed one for lower speed with higher torque. This will help cut through the housing better and all avoid you going in to fast and potentially damaging something. Let the bit cut this aluminum cuts real nice no need to put a lot of pressure on the bit.

Step 6: Cut Your Lens

Typically with most pods you will need to shorten the height of your lens so that the halo is not obstructing the seal of the pod. As mentioned in the tools needed page we used a band saw to cut our lens, Anything that cuts plastic will work the same. You will want to knock off 1/4"-3/8" from the whole lens

This is where the Ruler comes in handy.

You will also need to cut a groove out for the wire to go. We just take out the bottom section of the lens. view the photo with the red marks as a reference. you only need to take out the bottom section

Step 7: Cut Your Screw

Now that you have shortened your lens you will also need to shorten the screw as the housing is not threaded deep enough to sink all the way in. Mark a 1/4" and use whatever cutting device you fine fit.

Step 8: Attach the Halo to the Plexiglass Lens

This is the most crucial step and can be the most difficult

Remember you must use LOCTITE********

Apply glue in any of the 2 opposite corners of the halo ring, on the light itself.

It is better to use as little as possible you do not need much. You will notice in the 2 pictures the difference between using a lot and a little. the 3rd picture shows what happens if you use to much. The glass can get hazy and look bad.

Once you put your dab of loctite on . apply the lens on to the halo.

* If the glass is not centered or even when you apply DO NOT PICK UP AND RE ADJUST. you will introduce air and will create the hazy looking effect.

simply just keep pressure on lens and slide around until centered and even on all 4 sides.

you will have about 7-10 seconds to make perfect before guess starts to set. once you have it where you want it hold for an additional 30 seconds to 1 minute to assure a good bond.

If you are not in a rush let this lens sit for 10 minutes to get a proper cure and strongest bond possible.

Step 9: Remove Excess Wire and Apply Shrink Wrap

1) Once you have let your halo set up. you will then want to get rid of the excess wire. unwind the wire and leave about a 7-10" pig tail this will be more than enough.

You do not need to cut it is just easier to install. You will have to cut the 4 pin adaptor off in order to make the wire fit through the hole.

If you plan on using this 4 pin plug be sure not to cut so close to the end that you will not be able to splice the wires back together

2) After the end has been removed split the 4 wires in half as shown in the images and split them all th way up until you hit the front of the halo.

3) Next slide on the shrink wrap you may need to stack the wires on top of each other so that all 4 will fit in the shrink wrap.

run the shrink wrap all the way up to the connection point.

The shrink wrap is there for 2 reasons

1. It conceals the white wire and gives for a cleaner look

2. You will create a better watertight seal with one piece of shrink wrap instead of loose wires floating around

Heat the shrink wrap up to finish this step. start from one end and work your way to the other.

*BE CAREFUL NOT TO APPLY TO MUCH HEAT AROUND THE HALO as this can damage the circuit board

Step 10: Test Fit

Before applying your sealant. lets make sure everything fits

run your wires through the hole you drilled.

Take your time and do not pul to hard on the wires as they could snap or rip the halo off the plexiglass.

once you have verified it fits and looks good it is time to start the reassembly process...

Step 11: Sealing the Hole

Review the images.

Notice how there is about 3/4" to 1" of white wire showing before applying sealant?

We do this so once you put the sealant on and pull the wire to set the halo the shrink wrap will grab the sealant and push it through the hole with it completely filling the gaps in.

having that much extra cord out also allows for an easier install of the lens.

Getting back to the sealant. We use a 100%black silicon to seal our holes however you can use epoxy or any other waterproof sealant.

Epoxy is nice because it flows better but if you ever had to take it apart forget about it.

We recommend the silicon as it is easy to deal with. it DOES NOT have to be an adhesive silicon.

Step 12: Install Lens and Seal

Move the halo to the side and slide the lens in... There is no technique here. Once in place screw it down.

*Tip- make sure that the lens does not wobble around and is tight. also make sure it is straight and not crooked.

If the screw stops turning and the lens is still loose do not force it. Take it back out and trim off a bit more. The aluminum is really soft and can be easily stripped out.

Once the lens is in place carefully start pulling the wire though until the Halo is nearly all the way to the lens.

slide the seal over the halo and plexiglass making sure it goes back in the same way it came out.

finishing pulling the wire through until the plexiglass is seated back into the seal like it was originally during the disassembly process.

If you've made it this far you are home FREE...

Step 13: Optional* Add Silicon

You can add a ring of silicon around the housing if you like.

You might as well. it is already apart and it will only help against the intrusion of water.

Step 14: Reattach the Cover

As important as not stripping the heads out when disassembling it is as equally important to not strip the housing out while reassembling. The screws provided are typically short and easy to strip.

start with 2 center holes. If using a drill set your speed to high and your torque to 3.

Tip apply a lot of downward pressure pon face plate to help in screwing down this will prevent the screw from having to squeeze the faceplate to the housing. just put the palm of your hand on it while screwing in. once you get the first 2 set it is no longer needed to kee pushing down.

finish up the otherr 4 screws in any order you please.

If doing by hand tighten just enough to stop the screw.

Step 15: Optional* More Sealant

If you chose to silicon the inside of your pod. now is the time to clean up all the excess that oozed out. you can also add a little silicon to the backside of the hole where your wires exit. if you feel like it