I came across a discarded electric wheelchair (Quantum 6000) some years ago and converted it to radio control. Seat and most everything was removed leaving just the motors and wheels. After driving it around, it was like a solution without a problem. What do I do with it? Casket Rider! Be sure to also view the end as I made another version.

Supplies

Scrap Wood

Drill, Bits, Saw, Paint brush, Wire, Solder, Table saw, Misc.

Total cost is hard to say as I use lots of found materials. I spent more then $300.

Step 1: Wheelchair Base

There are a few Instructables about converting an electric wheelchair to radio control. My approach was to be as simple as possible. This one is a Quantum 6000 I found trashed. Over the years I have used it on other projects. It is powered with a single car battery from walmart 12 volts. The motors are designed for 24 volts. I found that 24 volts was too dangerous, as it is way too wild and scary. There is no steering servo, the speed controller is a dual motor skid steering type from Dimension Engineering. They have instructions on how to set it up properly. It is connected to the car battery through a 50 amp fuse that also serves as the on/off switch. It was extended up and out for easy access. I simply unplug it to turn everything off. The speed controller produces 5v to power the radio receiver so it doesn't need an additional battery.

I also included a picture of a Jet 7 chair I had gotten working. It is smaller and probably easier to work with but I gave that one away to a friend for his project.

Step 2: The Box

The wheelchair has 4 bolts on the top of the frame that used to be the chair support. 2x4's were bolted there giving a solid place to screw our project to. This setup is very strong. The casket design has to be based on the width of the wheels. I tried to make it as narrow as possible while still giving the wheels clearance. Exact dimensions are not critical, just as long as it looks good and has wheel clearance. I cut long strips from scrap lumber on the table saw. The house next door had thrown out some shelving and that was the source of the framework. Yes, it was orange! Specific dimensions here are not super important as whatever type chair you might use will be different. The idea is to build a box frame with 2 cross pieces that firmly secure the box frame to the 4 seat posts. My framework was all screws so no glue. The holes are piloted with a small drill bit and countersunk to get the screw head flush. Always be wary of screw ends protruding out as they are very sharp. Dimensions ended up at 79" long, 30" wide and 20" tall. It sits 3" off the ground rolling clearance. Once the box was built, it was simply sheeted over with 1/4" plywood. I did have some scrap wall trim for around the edges on mine, but i don't think it is vital. after sheeting, it is just a box. I did put square trim around the outside to make it look more authentic. I did Google image search for inspiration.

Step 3: The Switch

I added a hinged lid to help with access to the internals. It doesn't have to have this. a simple removable panel on top would work easier. I kind of wanted to do some kind of motorized door gag, but decided against too much complication. In this step i included the picture of the fuse switch, it extends up through a hole in the top hidden in the flowers. To turn everything on, just plug in the fuse. It's safe as the fuse will blow if there is a problem, and it's easy to grab it and pull to turn it off. The connector type is the "Deans T" type connector soldered onto the fuse.

Step 4: Paint

I painted the horrible orange over with Kilz primer. Do this out doors as it's a bit smelly. I did 2 coats, it covers well. It takes a day to cure so be patient, follow directions on the can. After it dries, you can use spray paint or whatever over it.

Step 5: Hand Rails

It just didn't look right without hand rails. These were simple 3/4" pvc pipes cut into 4 lengths 30" long. I cut some scrap wood as standoffs for the hand rails, 8 total. The stand away 2" about 4" long and 1" thick. I ended up holding them in a channel on the table saw to screw the standoff onto the rails. A hole on ones side of the pipe allows the screws to go through the pipe and tightened inside.

Step 6: The Rider and Lights

The rider needed support. So a conduit was placed into a hole drilled along the edge making sure there was thick enough material below. The hole doesn't go all the way through. Conduit pipe was friction fit tight, add tape if it's too loose. The rider's arm is zip tied and or taped to his conduit walking stick. His feet were screwed down too. Tighten his joints as needed to lock in his pose. I had to add a screw to his neck and one on each shoulder to keep them from moving. The legs and hips seemed ok.

Last, I added the peel and stick Led lights on the inside to give the spooky hovering effect. Access is through the hinged lid. They are 12 volt but I chose to power them with an old drone battery so there are no wire conflicts. Keeping things simple.

Step 7: Another Version

A few years ago I did another version as a coffin surfer. The wood was finished by burning it with a torch, then spraying Krylon clear over it. This one is spookier but also worked well. Just giving more ideas and possible options.