$2 Motorcycle Wheel Bearing Puller





Introduction: $2 Motorcycle Wheel Bearing Puller

The shop wanted $50 a wheel to change out the bearings. 

The internet wanted $60 for the tool to do it.

I knew there had to be a better way.

The official name for this tool is a 'mandrel bearing puller.'

Step 1: Materials and Tools

1/2" Button head machine screw, at least 1 1/2" long, available at any hardware store
Flat head screwdriver with a somewhat large head and an impact resistant handle (this may get destroyed)

-Hammer (any type, even a rock will do)
-File or belt sander to speed things up
-Hack saw, or band saw to speed things up
-Some sort of clamping device (vice)
-Safety goggles for power tools and hammering

Step 2: Shape the Head

Mount the bolt in the drill chuck.

While the drill is spinning, use the belt sander or file to shape the head until it just fits through the inside of the bearing . Profile it to  have a narrow edge, like an umbrella. The edge allows the tool to fit into the chamfer (space between the bearing and spacer) to grip the bearing.

Step 3: Cut

Now cut the bolt lengthwise, through the head and down most of the shaft, leaving about 1/4" uncut.
I used a horizontal bandsaw, but a hacksaw and some elbow grease should do the trick.

Bend the two sides away from each other just SLIGHTLY by pressing the screw driver into the slot.

Step 4: Make a Handle

This probably wasnt necessary, but I made a handle with a bolt, a lot of washers, and a nut. The tool threads into the other side of the nut.

Step 5: Using the Tool

To use the tool, insert the bolt head side of the tool into the bearing until you feel it reach the indentation on the other side of the bearing.

Next, press the screw driver from the other side of the wheel into the slot in the bolt head. Tap the back of the screw driver lightly with a hammer, and then harder to drive the bearing out.

Repeat for the other bearings.


Destroying the old bearings doesn't matter as the whole reason to remove bearings is to replace them.



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    Worked a treat. A coach bolt and 10 minutes with an angle grinder. I didn't have room for a drift or screwdriver.

    Been using these for years on Bike Wheels and they work Fine!! Also good to have in your Tool Bag if you have to work on your Bike on the side of the Road!!

    I dunno about that, I see what you are saying but anyone who is smart enough to change out their own bearings ought to be smart enough not to need to ever pull a bearing road side. That would be a hell of a job - and I once had to replace my reg/rec & wiring roadside.

    I get along just fine using a drift and a small lump hammer, you have to be careful and patient but otherwise no problem. Looks good though - I'll probably give it a go some time just because I like making

    Better Idea: Make a clinch-style tool (the kind that grabs the inner side of the race), and then tap it out. Just go to your local DIY shop and pick up some concrete anchors in the fastener section. They are designed just for that purpose, only with concrete. Get the right size for the hub, tighten it down, and tap it out. Works for just a few bucks.

    I guess, I would have to way the balance of time vs money. Seems like alot of work to make one of the most janky looking tools I have ever seen. Not to mention you should never strike the end of a screw driver with a hammer, screw drivers are for screwing screws, they are not punches or pry bars. Not to beat this up but this is not a good idea and a huge waste of time. Oh and did i mention dangerous. Get the right tool for the job or don't do it. This is a perfect example of how you can break things, cause an extra headache for yourself and make a job way harder than it should be. If your lucky you won't be angry and injured at the end of this. Pay the 50 dollars and let the mechanic do his job or get yourself a nice new tool. After all this is your motorcycle wheels (or maybe some other part) here how cheap do you want to be with such an important area of the vehicle. I'm just trying to give some good advice here for the more inexperienced people out there, sorry if I seem to stern.

    Depends on what you mean by "janky"...by that definition, a collet to you probably looks "janky." This works on the same principle as most machine tool holders, using a lever to translate force from linear (the wedge in the mandrel) to angular (outward grabbing force on the bearing). You speak of the balance of time and money; most of the people here are here because they have the former and not the latter. Personally, to quell your issues with a screwdriver I might substitute a similarly beveled cold chisel with some length but the principle does not change and the idea is to avoid owning a $60 tool with a singular purpose when the same can be had for a bit of labor and more than likely less than $1.00. It doesn't matter whether you use an expensive tool or a cheap tool, the mechanical forces exerted on the rim are roughly identical. Any interference fit bearing is going to require significant impact or other force to remove. The bearing will be completely ruined, but it should come out as a complete unit and not damage the wheel. The device he has made is one of the oldest clamping tools devised for machining; you may not like it, but it's mechanically sound in the ways that count.

    OP: Nice instructable! I was looking for a way to pull/install bearings in a different scenario and came across this one. Won't work for this instance but loved the creative use of a homemade mandrel.

    Ok you used your big words here I get the principal but you obviously are showing your lack of mechanical experience. It's one thing to talk in theory but honestly how many hours have you actually spent turning wrenches? I was not trying to cause trouble but I have thousands of hours logged in the technical aspects of power sports and it does matter if you use a cheap or expensive tool or procedure for that matter. Just trying to point people in the right direction.