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In my 433 MHz projects I have been using a cheap (0.70 cnts) pair of Tx/Rx
modules. I have mostly used the transmitter and that is actually pretty good: if used to trigger comercially available remote switches, it reaches very far with just a simple 1/4 lambda antenna.

The receiver however is a bit crappy: without antenna the reach is maybe no further than a meter, but even with a 1/4 lambda antenna it is marginally more, even with free Line of Sight.

For any serious project that involved receiving data it seemed I needed the much better (and more expensive) RXB8 receiver.

However, when mining the internet for a coil antenna (trying to improve on the lengthy 17.2 cm stick antenna) I came across a design of Ben Schueler, apparently once published in elektor magazine. A reference to Ben's pdf would suffice to build it, but so is my picture and I can add my experience with it as well.

It is a so called coil loaded design consisting of 0.6mm wire wrapped around a 2.5mm core.
The picture gives a clear description: a length of 25 cm wire should be enough. At the base it is 17 mm long. Then goes into 16 turns over a 2.5 mm core (Ben advises to use black installation wire for this. I just used a screwdriver)

The results with this antenna are very good. The distance (with the cheap receiver) that can be covered easily goes to 25 m with line of sight, but also in-house the distance will be increased reaching other rooms with concrete walls in between, were earlier 3 meters with line of sight would be pushing the limits already.

I am not the only one with this experience. I have at least 2 people confirm to me that it dramatically increased the range of the cheap Tx/Rx pair

<p>Thank you for the article! I've been trying basically any idea I find on the internet to increase the range of my 433 MHz modules, but so far I haven't succeeded. I've made two of these coil loaded antennas. I measured everything very precisely, the coils also have the correct turn count - I've checked it repeatedly. But unfortunately attaching the antennas has effectively halved the already very poor (2-3 m) range of my modules compared to the straight ones.</p>
<p>Ok, I've since tried something else. I soldered the antennas to another pair of modules and - magically - the range improved significantly and the error rate dropped to zero. I don't have any time left today to measure the range and experiment further but it seems that the original modules were defective. So it really works! I highly recommend everyone to try it.</p>
<p>I believe these are the same rx/tx devices you have used. Can you tell me if you have removed the existing antenna and replaced with the coiled ones? My transmitter seems to have two coils connected together if I'm following the traces correctly.</p>
<p>no i didnt remove anything. just added the antenna to where it says &quot;ANT&quot;</p>
<p>Used a screw to nicely loop the wire, worked like a charm.</p>
<p>good idea. Thanks for the pics</p>
Thanks so much for a clear, well laid out explanation. I have some old 433mHz sockets with poor antenna and my transmitter (3.3v supply from an ESP8266) works fine with my newer 433mHz units around the house 10-15m away from the transmitter (walls, stairs etc) but my old STATUS brand units would work most of the time but some of the more distant ones (3m away) would not always work. I think the remote for the STATUS sockets takes a 12v battery so the antenna on these old units is not great. This is compounded by the fact I'm using them to power up / off active speakers 10 in the same room, and AV Kit sub etc all mounted on metal wall stands. I did have everything working but if the transmitter moved away from its sweet spot (e.g. when I reprogrammed the ESP8266 and had to connect it to my computer).<br><br>I followed you instructions using some wire that the local telco guy had left in our street and just soldering your design to the ANT via on the PCB means the transmitter can be positioned casually without any problems. The same transmitter also controls lights and other appliances around the house. <br><br>Thanks so much :)
<p>my pleasure. I am happy it works well for you, just as it did for me.</p>
<p>These things are awesome! Just the right size for what I need. By the way, 25cm is just a little short, I would suggest using about 25.5cm of wire and cutting off the extra.</p>
<p>Thanks for yr feedback. I am actually still very happy with them. Brought Rf communication with 433 Mhz on a serious level.<br>Yes, always good to use some extra wire. If you use a core to wind them on is only a fraction thicker that could easily grab some extra material.<br>I really encourage anybody using RF433MHz to give these a try</p>
<p>I put it on my 433mHz receiver (for my driveway gate remotes), and increased the range by approximately 10 meters. It used to have a helical before, the receiver came with that one by default.<br>I used a single strand from a Cat5 LAN cable, solid core.<br>So I'd say this was a success :)</p>
<p>Well that is good to hear. The single strand of a CAT 5 is rather thin I think. Try with slightly thicker wire and see what that does if you have some free time :-)</p>
<p>great work! first antenna I tried, and works great. Improve distance from 5m to 45m or maybe more!</p>
<p>Thanks, I am glad it helped you</p>
<p>This worked exceedingly well! I tested indoors line of site up to 35 feet. Was getting 5 to 10 feet without an antennae.</p><p>For me I disliked the overall length of the antennae, I was wanting something more compact. I seen somebody commented that the $5 Helical antennae on e-bay worked well too. I took a look and they're much cheaper than $5. Still... who wants to wait for it to be shipped from China? What I did see was a helical antennae that stopped at the turns and did not rise above past it. (rubber duck type antennae as they call it, without the rubber covering). That's more ideal for me!</p><p>For 433Mhz the length was 32mm, had 23 turns with a gap in each turn that was about the width of the wire (exactly like a spring), I do not know what gauge wire it was . I went to Home Depot and bough the smallest solid core wire I could find. Turned out to be 20 AWG (bell wire). Cut off approx. 42mm of wire, stripped off the coating so the wire would be bare copper. Left a straight length of 3mm long (+ 1mm or more for the bend that would go into the module's antennae hole), then tightly wound it around a small screwdriver of the remaining wire. This came out to be 27 turns and was shorter than 32mm in length. I stretched out the &quot;springiness&quot; of the coiled wires to obtain 32mm of length. It worked just great! Got a confirmed 35 feet of solid communication. Plus.... instead of sticking up perpendicular to the receiving module I was able to bend it parallel behind the receiving module which is about 3 to 5 mm shorter than the module itself without any loss in distance from my simple test.</p><p>Thank you for sharing this information with us!</p>
<p>Thanks Robert for sharing yr experience. Indeed there are several different antenna designs. The one I made just worked great for me so I didnt have the need to make another. It also works if I put it perpendicular to my board as you van see in one of my pics. Mine has a good reach as well, goes about 10 meters through my house, throug a solid glass window and then well into the garden. Certainly 35 feet if not more. Also reaches one story up.<br>But should I need a shorter antenna I will surely try the design you described </p>
<p>I have a question, as I'm planning to make those. Does it matter if the wire is insulated or not? Is a single cable from an UTP cable good for this? Should I make two antennas? One for TX and one for Rx? Thanks alot, great instructable!</p>
<p>I am not an antenna specialist, but I have mine with the insulation on and the antenna worked much better than a whip. I am not sure how it would work without the insulation, simply because I never tried and had no need for it as it would reach all over my house.<br>I am not sure if UTP cable is the proper material. Too flexible. I use some semi-rigid connection wires. The sort you would normally solder on a PCB or a connector.<br><br>yes, you need to make two, one for the Tx and one for the Rx.<br>i am sure the design can be improved but I already went from a few with a whip, to all over my 2 story house and garden. I do admit my whip did not have a groundplane</p>
<p>Hmm, I just made those, but it seems like the modules work even worse than before soldering the antennas, I don't get correct commands at distances greater than 15, maybe 20 centimeters. </p><p>Here is a picture of them, maybe I got something wrong. </p><p>Thanks for the reply! </p>
<p>I must say that surprises me greatly, because til now I only heard people having great improvement.<br>Your antennaś look OK in the picture, so I start to wonder if maybe it is the wrong wire. The first thing I think of is that maybe you have used stranded wire?<br>Really needs to be solidcore.<br>Anther possibility is the insulation. Try one without the plastic insulation</p>
<p>Worked perfectly. I slightly changed mine though. Used a wooden cocktail stick ( that has the proper diameter) to turn the wire. Left the stick in place, cut it at the proper length and shrink tubed it. I epoxied the base of the stick to the board, making the antenna somewhat idiot proof... </p>
that is actually a pretty good idea. no doubt a wooden core will have different properties than an air core, but i guess it makes no difference
<p>Hi,</p><p>I've tried multiple tips and trick regarding 433 Mhz Antenna Desgins and this is the only one which really makes a difference ! I am very happy with that.. One question though. Receiving the radio waves is one thing, but it starts with transmitting... Does this design also improves things at the transmitter side, or just use the 17 cm wire there ?</p><p>Thanks again..</p>
<p>Tnx for your kind words. I use it at both sides</p>
<p>Just as a note, the cheap 'Helical antenna 433MHz' for 5 a dollar on ebay actually work quite well too (not surprising, their very similar in design, 21 ish turns of 5mm ish diameter, so that's about 33 cm in them, + 1 cm at the straight end) :)</p>
<p>thanks. I have seen similar designs being sold, but I found the prices (e.g. 5 USD) always a bit steep for what is basically a piece of wire. I am sure that 'my' design (factually it isnt my design, I just came across it),, might not be the one and only best, maybe an extra winding or a bigger airgap or slightly longer may give great results as well, but let me put it like this: when I was still using the straight wire antenna, I was convinced the 433 Mhz projects were useless. More than 2-3 meters were already a problem while with the helical antenna I reach all over my house (2 stories and from the front of my house well into the back yard (about 25 meters, + 1 wall)</p>
<p>Oh, I quite agree! And I'm quite thankful for your design, it's what made me try the ebay ones ;) Jus thought I'd mention those, since I couldn't find anywhere mentioning if their good or not, turns out they are! :) And their 5 for 1 dollar, so pretty cheap! In fact I chose them cause it was cheaper to get them then to order some bendy wire XD (Not much of a DIY scene in this country, and seems solid core wire isn't as common on ebay).</p>
<p>yes I got that. I saw thy sell for 75 cts us pr 20 at aliexpress. Your comment actually prompted me to dig in some more 433 MHz antenna designs and you can find from very simple to extremely complicated :-)<br>this one seems one of the simplest but get much better range than the straight wire. I think placing the antennas such that they have the same orientation, may also make a few decibels difference</p>
<p>Hello, I'm a complete newbie when it comes to such things, but I wanted to get a helical antenna for it's directional properties. I want it to be very limited (About 40~60 degrees) does this help? From what I've read online it should be fairly directional, but does this particular setup add that directionality factor? Also, I would love to know from which side I would best receive a signal in case it is indeed directional. Thanks a lot for this amazing write up though.</p>
<p>Sorry Amoor but it is not directional. It may look a bit like a helical antenna but it isnt. As far as I understand the directional helical antennas have a base plate that reflects the signal. In that case the directionality is lengthwise from the helix.<br>Thanks for your kind words</p>
<p>You left a comment on my instructable so I clicked on your profile. I had read this instructable a couple of months ago (before I officially joined). Now that I can comment let me tell you the antenna design made a HUGE difference for my project - which was making essentially a wireless joystick. Thanks for putting the information out there </p>
<p>Sorry for my late reply, i must have missed your comment. I am happy it helped. Thanks for the photo. looks great</p>
<p>My wife thanks you! Now my wireless rain sensor can move from the kitchen table to the office, a room away. There was no usable signal before the antenna was added.</p>
<p>great setup.</p><p>happy wife, hapy husband :-)</p>
<p>muy bueno</p>
<p>Thank you</p>
<p>wow damn. this is so cool! Nice write up.</p>
<p>thanks, it really changed my projects as with this antenna i can basically cover my entire house, all floors and a bit outside. The transmitter of those el cheapo transceiverpairs is pretty good. The receiver is crap, but as I mainly use it to switch commercial 220V switches, it covers my needs</p>
<p>Yes I completely agree. I have been testing the 433MHz TX/RX arrangement and have concluded that the RX that comes with those very cheap TX/RX pair is completely useless for anything above a few metres.</p><p>For use with anything realistic, for example a sensor outside and the receiver inside via a few walls then either an Aurel receiver or as you mention the RXB8 gives good results with just a quarter wave antenna (168-170mm). However there is indeed a marked improvement with the antenna you describe.</p>
<p>tnx jimeer.</p><p>you are right abt the rxb8, but i remember a while back when i wanted to get one, it was labelled as &quot;315-433MHz&quot; When i asked the shop which frequency it factually was, the polite answer I received was &quot;yes&quot; :-) thats when I grabbed for this antenna design.<br>currently it serves my purposes with the el cheapo receivers, but i acquired some better receivers as well</p>
<p>what kind of wire did you use? where can i buy it?</p>
<p>i just used regular semi-rigid montage wire that you can get in electronic shops</p>
<p>Hello Mr,</p><p>I'm from Brazil.</p><p>I'm using google translator.</p><p>I'm sorry if you can not understand some information.</p><p>I read your article:</p><p>433 MHz Coil loaded antenna</p><p>I have an example: A device in the frequency 433 MHz sends a signal to up to 3 meters. In your example could increase to up to 25 meters.</p><p>I want to do a collinear 433 mhz that I have at least 6 radiant and 5 loading coils.</p><p>I want to understand what the calculation which I shall use to be able to follow this process:</p><p>1st radiant and 1 coil, radiant 2nd and 2nd coil, radiant 3rd and 3rd reel, 4 radiant and 4th reel, 5 radiant and 5th reel, now finally the 6th radiant.</p><p>Do something similar to what happens in the wireless antennas.</p>
<p>WilsonJ8 - Two ideas for you to evaluate. Consider a Yagi antenna (looks like TV antenna) or if you have room, build a parabolic dish. Very directive but has big time gain. For antenna designs free design demo can be downloaded at EZNEC.com. Once you learn EZNEC program you can design many antenna types.</p>
<p>I do not touch this kind of program.<br><br> I understand well:https://www.google.com.br/imgres?imgurl=http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lTB5r4qe2V0/U2196LqgaQI/AAAAAAAAAZo/SdzxQI5cf6g/s1600/digitalizar0008.jpg&amp;imgrefurl=http://py3pz.blogspot.com/2014/05/projeto-de-antena-para-vhf-3x-58-de-onda.html&amp;h=1600&amp;w=1087&amp;tbnid=hAjXcxlM_eK21M:&amp;docid=GTljPBvKs33TsM&amp;ei=CrBqVtnHGoizwATOj4-gBQ&amp;tbm=isch&amp;ved=0ahUKEwjZ9Kzl1tPJAhWIGZAKHc7HA1QQMwgfKAAwAA<br><br>If you're doing this type of antenna as I put well in google images: antenna 3x5 / 8<br><br> So as my case is UHF, VHF antenna coil is not compatible to the UHF antenna and vice versa.<br><br> I recommend that the Lord conduct a UHF antenna design of a 3x5 / 8 UHF 462 MHz. The frequency of GMRS / FRS. So with EZNEC design made, I can copy it was done and do for other antenna. Because I used the MMANA GAL. But I know not to mess with this program as well.<br><br> I know operate the calculator, paper, pen and paper.</p>
<p>ok</p>
<p>tnx JB I am sorry but google did a bad job. b i understand you need the calculations for a collinear antenna. sadly I am no antenna specialist so i cannot help you with that but maybe some of the readers can.</p>
<p>This post came in very handy when I was trying to get my 433 MHz RF Tx/RX to work over the required distances. Just stopped by to say thank you for this accurate description of the RF antenna. Its very early days for me in the world of Arduino but I know today's successful completion of the Rx/Tx project opens a whole new world of opportunities. </p>
<p>My pleasure. I am happy it helped you. Thanks for the pictures. I always enjoy seeing what other people build</p>
<p>This is a helical antenna in normal mode, with straight wire extensions. For FM radio (100 MHz), I tried over 20 similar designs and found the wider diameter, the better. So I think a wider core will work better. The best design I found was 7 cm diameter loops with 4 cm &quot;pitch&quot; (space between the wire for 1 helical turn) with 7 turns and a 3 foot straight wire extension on the end. I found it convenient to just hang it from the existing rod antenna in the collapsed position, with the helical at top and straight section at bottom. The 3 foot wire is &quot;bonus&quot;. It can be shorter or not there at all with a relatively small cost to reception. As an alternative to the straight wire, doubling the number of turns to the helix seemed to work. Added straight wire to 14 turns did not seem to help. They generally say beyond 15 turns is not worth it, and you need at least 5. 10 turns seemed to not work as good as 7, which is not supposed to be the case according to the basic helical equations. I used 14 gauge wire for strength.</p><p>Applying my best design for FM radio to your wavelength gives the following:</p><p>diameter: 1.5 cm</p><p>turn spacing: 1 cm</p><p>14 turns, no straight section.</p><p>Bit this is 14 cm long. So 7 turns going one length of the box then letting the straight wire come off 90 degrees down the other side of the box might work good. Receivers should have the same antenna as transmitter, if possible.</p><p> You can start out with 0.5 cm spacing between the loops, and slowly stretching it out while observing changes to reception. Usually, the spacing of the loops is 1 to 1.5 times 1/2 the diameter. </p><p>You can use any gauge wire.</p>

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