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55Instructables1,576,083Views3,376CommentsEuropeJoined February 14th, 2009
I am a physician by trade. After a career in the pharmeceutical world I decided to take it a bit slower and do things I like. Other than my hobbies that involves grassroots medicine in S.E.&P Asia. I have built low income cow dung bio-reactors, solar lamps and family fish ponds as well as houses out of every kind of thinkable material. Instructables is an endless source of inspiration for my projects.

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  • 3 Channel Dimmer/fader for Arduino or Other Microcontroller

    The EL817 is a single phase optocoupler and the IL251 a double phase. You can use the EL817 but then you have to ad a bridge rectifier

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  • diy_bloke commented on jschrempp's instructable Internet Connected Water Leak Detector3 hours ago
    Internet Connected Water Leak Detector

    tried download too. Corrupted

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  • diy_bloke commented on jschrempp's instructable Internet Connected Water Leak Detector23 hours ago
    Internet Connected Water Leak Detector

    I was wondering what your sensor looks like. cant find it anywhere. Your Github pdf seems corrupted

    ah yes, I saw it. One of the commercial pcb based ones.

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  • diy_bloke commented on 陳亮's instructable ESP-03 Testing Board2 days ago
  • Arduino Controlled RGB LED Strip for the Living Room

    ah I see tnx, but i guess one wouldnt need both :-)

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  • diy_bloke commented on billm950's instructable ESP8266 Soil Moisture Sensor for $72 days ago
    ESP8266 Soil Moisture Sensor for $7

    Wel done. As your instructable is a year old, I presume you have a growing season behind you and i was wondering what your expereince with the plaster of paris sensor is.I hear very mixed stories abt the plaster of paris sensor. I made one myself and I was not entirely happy with it, but maybe what the one sees as an issue, the other sees as an advantage.My 'issues' with it were that it is kinda slow to react because it first needs to soak up water, also, when the soil gets a bit drier, it takes long for the sensor to follow that.I understand that the biggest argument pro plaster of paris sensor is that it supposedly is less prone to electrolysis. That might be, but there are easier ways to combat that.Anyway, I am no judge on the matter, but I am always interested to hear other peop...

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    Wel done. As your instructable is a year old, I presume you have a growing season behind you and i was wondering what your expereince with the plaster of paris sensor is.I hear very mixed stories abt the plaster of paris sensor. I made one myself and I was not entirely happy with it, but maybe what the one sees as an issue, the other sees as an advantage.My 'issues' with it were that it is kinda slow to react because it first needs to soak up water, also, when the soil gets a bit drier, it takes long for the sensor to follow that.I understand that the biggest argument pro plaster of paris sensor is that it supposedly is less prone to electrolysis. That might be, but there are easier ways to combat that.Anyway, I am no judge on the matter, but I am always interested to hear other peoples experience with various sensors

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  • 3 Channel Dimmer/fader for Arduino or Other Microcontroller

    I understand you are anxious to make this project but really no need to ask the same question several times in a row

    Your Arduino has in and output pins referred to as D0-D13D3, D4, D5 are the ones you need, not 1-3. They are on your Arduino board.There is no need to send you a program, the program is in the instructable in step 2 where it says 'Software'Attached an image of the arduino with a great big red arrow pointing to digital I/O D3-D5D2 is where you connect your interrupt.This is really very very basic arduino informationHmm seems I cannot upload an immage right now.here is the link: https://d1dr2mxwsd2nqe.cloudfront.net/media/catalo...Go to the lower right hand side of the board where its says 'Digital pins' There you see 0-13

    There is really no need to repeat your question 4-5 times

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  • Arduino Controlled RGB LED Strip for the Living Room

    Looks great. Can I just remark that rather than using an arduino and RFM69, just the one ESP8266-12 (say a Wemos D1 mini) is a serious option as well for those interested to make it. All depends on the rest of the smarthome system ofcourse

    something not clear to me. you use FETs and you use the LED amplifier, what purpose? isnt the one enough?

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  • 3 Channel Dimmer/fader for Arduino or Other Microcontroller

    Mayur tha is actually all stated in the program:Connect the 0-x-ing with Pin D2 (interrupt 0)and the R G B inputs to pin D3 D4 and D5

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable Arduino Controlled Light Dimmer5 days ago
    Arduino Controlled Light Dimmer

    I am 99.9% sure it would. Most PID constructs produce a variable that can be converted. Not saying it will always be easy to do, it could be that the software/firmware comes with a PWM and then ofcourse you would need to conver the dutycycle to a the dimTime Variable

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable Arduino Controlled Light Dimmer1 week ago
    Arduino Controlled Light Dimmer

    Yes, in the text you will find reference to changes you need to make in circuit to make it work with 120 Volt (2 different resistors)as well as changes you need to make in the program if it happens to be 60Hz rather than 50 Hz

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable Arduino Controlled Light Dimmer1 week ago
    Arduino Controlled Light Dimmer

    1. that would not work.Even if you could pick up such a signal, you would eventually run out of sync. The grid frequency is fairly constant over a longer period, but there is vasriation per cycle2, yes if you run a phase and neutral that would work, but the switches are usually already connected to a live wire so you would only need to pull a neutral. Not sure what you mean with yr question abt wall sockets and lights in phase: They come from the same source as long asin the same group sosure they have the same phase

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  • diy_bloke commented on goks_lf's instructable Arduino Soil Moisture Sensor1 week ago
    Arduino Soil Moisture Sensor

    Hmm sounds like unstable connection. check all yr connections and check what the voltage is on the bin you are using

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable 433 MHz Coil Loaded Antenna1 week ago
    433 MHz Coil Loaded Antenna

    Not sure what you mean with 'temper bare copper'

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  • diy_bloke commented on goks_lf's instructable Arduino Soil Moisture Sensor1 week ago
  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable Arduino Controlled Light Dimmer1 week ago
    Arduino Controlled Light Dimmer

    when your lightswitch socket only has 2 wires those would be the Live and the switch wire. As a triac is in fact an in series device you could put it in place of the switch, but ther is also a phase detection part that needs the live and the neutral. If you connect the negative input to the Load bottom wire you would probably blow yr bridge, but should you mean to connect the one AC lead of the bridge to the bottom load wire.... I expect you could detect the sinus but you would be picking it off the triac, meaning you would get a zerocross signal that depends on the very device you are regulating. Once the lamp/load is at full brihjtness you would no longer have a signal to regulate with

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable Arduino Controlled Light Dimmer2 weeks ago
    Arduino Controlled Light Dimmer

    yes you shld be able to. may need to adapt the gate resistor a bit

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino2 weeks ago
    AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino

    ok so you are saying it works now?

    the lamp should go off when the optocoupler shorts the gate to ground.When the lamp does not go off there are in fact two possibilities:1- the optocoupler does NOT short the gate to ground2-your mosfet/igbt is burned throughwith regard to the MOC3021... that is an optocoupler with a DIAC rather than a transistor, so it is not suitable. The PC817 should in principle be OK.So if you used 2 different optocouplers and 3 different transistors, that is 6 combinations and is a recipe for wrong connections, so if you checked that all in all 10 times, that is 1.5 times per combo. If you checked the MOC3021 10 times or 100 times makes no difference as it is the wrong component.So i suggest the following. Throw yr MOC3021 in a corner, you have no need for it.Concentrate on the 817 and the IRF830...

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    the lamp should go off when the optocoupler shorts the gate to ground.When the lamp does not go off there are in fact two possibilities:1- the optocoupler does NOT short the gate to ground2-your mosfet/igbt is burned throughwith regard to the MOC3021... that is an optocoupler with a DIAC rather than a transistor, so it is not suitable. The PC817 should in principle be OK.So if you used 2 different optocouplers and 3 different transistors, that is 6 combinations and is a recipe for wrong connections, so if you checked that all in all 10 times, that is 1.5 times per combo. If you checked the MOC3021 10 times or 100 times makes no difference as it is the wrong component.So i suggest the following. Throw yr MOC3021 in a corner, you have no need for it.Concentrate on the 817 and the IRF830 and try again.If you then still have the same problem, disconnect from the grid, remove the PC870 from its socket and connect a wire between pin 3 and 4 of the socket and plug in again. Is the lamp off now?

    when in my reply i say PC870, i mean the PC817 optocoupler

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable 433 MHz Coil Loaded Antenna2 weeks ago
    433 MHz Coil Loaded Antenna

    Sorry, cant help you there

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino2 weeks ago
    AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino

    regarding the 1st circuit, that is not my circuit. I used it as example of a circuit that I think does not work correctly and you just confirmed that.As with the 2nd one, i am not sure which one that is as the link gets truncated, but if it is this one https://arduinodiy.files.wordpress.com/2015/07/mos...then it means that either the 4n35 is not working or not connecting properly or there is no signal coming from yr microcontroller, or yr FET is brokenSo please check the connections around the optocoupler and make sure your micro provides proper input.If that is all ok suspicion falls on your FET

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino3 weeks ago
    AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino

    it is ok.the component list is in the circuit: for the diode use a 1N4001 or something,the bridge depends on the load u want to regulate

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  • Hacking a Sonoff Touch Panel to Work With MQTT and Homeassistant

    Pin 1 is connected to groundPin 5 has to be temporarily connected to groundIf you make a solder connection from pin 5 to pin 1 you will be able to program the device but afterthat u cannot use it as it will always be in program mode,so the solution is really very simple: connect gpio0 to ground on power up for programming and when you are done programming remove that connection.How you do that is mainly your choice but if you use an ftdi module, a small breadboard seems the easiest

    thanks, yes, in the mean time I saw it on some other pics. It was just that the way you mentioned it I initially thoughtit was going to play a role somewhere :-)

    Nicely done.I was wondering, you keep mentioning the 2x2 header, but i understand correctly that plays no role in this?

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable Installing Attiny13 Core Files3 weeks ago
    Installing Attiny13 Core Files

    that is odd, I can use it normally.Anyway, nowadays i would just use the microcore https://github.com/MCUdude/MicroCoreas the smeezekitty core has major flaws

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino3 weeks ago
    AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino

    there are in fact several possibilities, I apologize if that was not clear. I suggest this circuit :https://arduinodiy.files.wordpress.com/2015/07/mos...

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  • diy_bloke commented on goks_lf's instructable Arduino Soil Moisture Sensor3 weeks ago
    Arduino Soil Moisture Sensor

    good, depending on yr circumstances you may consider having the arduinopin switch a transistor that feeds the sensor: https://arduinodiy.wordpress.com/2017/08/19/switch...

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  • diy_bloke commented on braserito66's instructable ESP8266 Wifi Thermostat for Freezer1 month ago
    ESP8266 Wifi Thermostat for Freezer

    currently just monitoring, bu if it comes to replacing my thermostat i will

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  • Arduino Controlled Robot Lawnmower - Ultrasonic and RGB Sensors - Howard Taylor Robot Lawnmower - YouTube

    Great, now all it needs is an Ardupilot to make it follow a pattern :-)

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  • diy_bloke commented on braserito66's instructable ESP8266 Wifi Thermostat for Freezer1 month ago
    ESP8266 Wifi Thermostat for Freezer

    It just reported as 'Faulty' in my download list. However just tried again (after a couple of restarts of my browser) and now it seems to work so the error was probably on my side. Sorry about that.With that out of the way: nicely done. I have a DS18B20 in my Freezer and fridge, but that is just to monitor, doesnt regulate anything, but now I know it could

    Seems downloading of yr program keeps failing

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  • diy_bloke commented on kinasmith's instructable Compost Sensor1 month ago
    Compost Sensor

    Excellent. I made something similar with a DS18b20 and an ESP8266, but I guess for larger distances you need the RFM69 as you have.I have chosen the DS18B20 coz I had a few, but a good ntc is probably just as accurate enough and certainly for compost.Though there are 'waterproof' NTC's and DS19B20 (basically the said element in a tiny metal tube) I made an insulated casing myself as I didnt want to run the risc that the commercial ones wouldnt last long enough.Data goes to Openhab and Thingspeak, the latter mainly for storage and graphs

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  • diy_bloke commented on Reichenstein7's instructable Arduino Modules - Flame Sensor1 month ago
    Arduino Modules - Flame Sensor

    a bit late, but maybe someone else is helped with it. Look here under wiring diagram http://learn.linksprite.com/arduino/advanced-learning-kit-for-arduino/experiment-13-detect-fire/

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  • Omnik Inverter Off It's Cloud and on My MQTT

    All in all looks like a great device

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable Arduino Controlled Light Dimmer1 month ago
    Arduino Controlled Light Dimmer

    Well... I am not saying that per se. There are some advantages of a 3Q triac, especially if you are using inductive loads: ringing caused by sudden turn-off could possibly turn on a 4-quadrant triac, necessitating snubbers and other protection means to prevent spurious conduction. A 3Q TRIAC would make that unnecessary. But I actually never tested a 3Q. You will find many BTA200 series (BTA200,201-212) to be 3Q, but I never used those. But they may work very well with conductive loads

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  • Omnik Inverter Off It's Cloud and on My MQTT

    I like MQTT Dash, but have not really seen much graphics on it yet. Ideas are never lacking, it is time that is lacking ;-)

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  • Simple and Cheap Fuse Doctor for Attiny

    Let me add that I built it also for an attiny that wouldnt flash without me having the foggiest why. Turned out to be a fuse i had no idea I had set

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  • Omnik Inverter Off It's Cloud and on My MQTT

    Pretty good. Quite some work figuring that all out.I don't like those proprietary services either. For one you don't know what is happening with your data and secondly what to do when the manufacturer (and its Cloud) go belly up.Itead I think does the best of both worlds: for the people who just want an easy solution, they have their cloud and for everyone else they make reflashing easier.Omnik and other manufacturers should take that as example.Great graph by the way is that a private application/dashboard or is it OpenEnergyMonitor?

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable 433 MHz Coil Loaded Antenna1 month ago
    433 MHz Coil Loaded Antenna

    Ben, Thanks. That design changed my 433 world. When i was just using the 1/4 wave whip antenna, I couldnt do anything serious with those cheap transmitters and then I found your design: BIG difference and I mean BIG!!!!.I trust I gave you enough credit :-).I am slowly moving away from 433 in favour of the Wemos... but I just seamlessly shifted my existing 433 infrastructure into Openhab with a simple MQTT-433 Gateway, again with your antenna. Even at 3 Volt there is considerable reach with the el cheapo transmitters, yet I use it at 5Volt, but may try 9Volt.Thanks again for your design

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  • Smart Home - Arduino Trash Indicator With BLE

    Nice. One could argue that it is crazy to do this as you will just see how much is in the bin every time you open it, but I just smartalized a simple moustrap so i get a mail when a mouse is cought ;-).Now the only thing left is to signal a robot to take the trash out ;-)Anyway, seriously, I have seen a system once in which the Trashbin (the big ones outside that get collected) take themselves from the house to the street on collection day via a railsystem.As there are usually costs connected to the pick up, it would pay to have this type of device included to prevent the trash taking itself out if the bin wasnt optimally full

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable 433 MHz Coil Loaded Antenna1 month ago
    433 MHz Coil Loaded Antenna

    That is good to hear. Thank you for the feedback

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  • diy_bloke commented on ensarlevent's instructable SMART MINI GREENHOUSE1 month ago
    SMART MINI GREENHOUSE

    Have fun. :-)"Airquality"as such might not be so important in a green house, but if that is what you were looking for, the 135 is a good sensor.Should you want to extract CO2 from your measurements... various sites describe that http://davidegironi.blogspot.nl/2014/01/cheap-co2-...

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  • Simple and Cheap Fuse Doctor for Attiny

    Happy I/my instructable could be of help :-)

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  • diy_bloke commented on rabbitcreek's instructable Weather Portal1 month ago
    Weather Portal

    Like this:

    For ZWM code: Use"http://autocomplete.wunderground.com/aq?query=yourtown"and then check the resulting json under 'l'

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  • diy_bloke commented on zposner's instructable Mechanical Iris Door1 month ago
    Mechanical Iris Door

    yes, has become much clearer

    "No chickens were hurt in the making of this video"Prize for originality and execution.I will need to go through yr description a few times though coz not all very clear yet how you put things together, but I will probably be able to work it out

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  • diy_bloke commented on rabbitcreek's instructable Weather Portal1 month ago
    Weather Portal

    Awesome. Some all weather cover for the tubes would be a great addition so I can place it outside to impress the neighbours

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  • diy_bloke commented on goks_lf's instructable Arduino Soil Moisture Sensor1 month ago
    Arduino Soil Moisture Sensor

    I hope you do not mind me making a few remarks on your project:1. the sensor. The sensor is a resistance sensor, not a capacitive. so it does not measure the dielectric constant but simply the resistance of the soil between the two 'legs'If it were a capacitive sensor it would need to be isolated from the soil and you could not simply measure it with an analog port.2. As you are reading it with an analog port, the module itself (the module in between the sensor and your arduino) becomes redundant and just uses power for nothing.The Analog pin on the module, is directly connected to the sensor, bypassing the electronics on that module. better connect the sensor directly to the analog port on your arduino.3. As the sensor will be fed current oon a continous bas, it will corrode due...

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    I hope you do not mind me making a few remarks on your project:1. the sensor. The sensor is a resistance sensor, not a capacitive. so it does not measure the dielectric constant but simply the resistance of the soil between the two 'legs'If it were a capacitive sensor it would need to be isolated from the soil and you could not simply measure it with an analog port.2. As you are reading it with an analog port, the module itself (the module in between the sensor and your arduino) becomes redundant and just uses power for nothing.The Analog pin on the module, is directly connected to the sensor, bypassing the electronics on that module. better connect the sensor directly to the analog port on your arduino.3. As the sensor will be fed current oon a continous bas, it will corrode due to electrolysis very rapidly. One can use an Arduinopin rather than a continous 5Volt to feed the sensor and switch it off in between readings. That will seriously enhance the time your sensor will last.I hope you do not mind me making these essential remarks

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  • diy_bloke commented on ensarlevent's instructable SMART MINI GREENHOUSE1 month ago
    SMART MINI GREENHOUSE

    I have made quite a few plant irrigation projects and growbox/greenhouse projects myself, but I am always interested to see how other people do it.I hope you do not mind a few remarks?I think for the average reader it might be unclear what you do with the moisture sensor and in fact it is a bit unclearto me too. Do you hang it in the water reservoir to indicate if that is still full or not? Or do you stick it in the soil of your plants to see if the soil is moist enough.The latter doesnt really give much added info as your irrigation is automatic (on a time trigger as I understand).You seem to use a Sparkfun moisture sensor, that I am afraid will not really look good anymore in a short time.You feed the sensor constantly with a current. Through electrolysis it will corrode and disso...

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    I have made quite a few plant irrigation projects and growbox/greenhouse projects myself, but I am always interested to see how other people do it.I hope you do not mind a few remarks?I think for the average reader it might be unclear what you do with the moisture sensor and in fact it is a bit unclearto me too. Do you hang it in the water reservoir to indicate if that is still full or not? Or do you stick it in the soil of your plants to see if the soil is moist enough.The latter doesnt really give much added info as your irrigation is automatic (on a time trigger as I understand).You seem to use a Sparkfun moisture sensor, that I am afraid will not really look good anymore in a short time.You feed the sensor constantly with a current. Through electrolysis it will corrode and dissolve fairly fast. Also, it is not really necessary to feed such a sensor with 3 leads (Voltage, Ground, Signal). You could do with 2 leads: Signal and Ground and switch the internal pull up resistor on.Can I suggest that anyone building this just uses 2 nails for a probe? Could consider only switching on the power to the probe for a very short moment to take a reading and have it off the rest of the time. That will seriously lenthen the time that sensor will lastI am a bit confused by your code, as you declare the sensorvalues in the loop, so they get declared time and time again.I would suggest to declare them outside that loop.The MQ-135 is a nice sensor that measures a lot of gasses and with that it becomes rather 'useless' I am sorry to say. The most important info to know about the airquality in your greenhouse is the CO2 level. You can use the MQ-135 to show CO2 levels with a bit more programmingIt seems you switch your light on and off every 30 min for 30 min, although that can be used to maintain the heat in your greenhouse, most plants will not like that cycle. For temperature control it is unpredictable because much depends on the size of yr greenhouse and the wattage of your lamp.As you still have pens a plenty left, I would suggest to add some sort of temperature sensor, if only an ntc, but a DHT would be great too as that also tells you the humidity.You use an L298 H bridge for the Pump and the Fan. That seems to be a complicated solution for a small problem.You now need 4 pins to control 2 actuators, which is unnecessary, unless you want the pump and the fan to turn backwards from time to time.With regard to the fan it is even complete overkill because you switch it on in your setup and it then stays on forever. Obviously you already have built your greenhouse but for anyone else building the project can I just suggest a relay or a transistor for the pump and the same for the fan, though the latter could also be fed directly from the PSU, given the fact it is constantly on.You use very long delays in your project. I get that, it is easy to do and it will work, but it is not really nice.Basically it puts your micro at a halt for 1 hour, with an interruption halfway to switch the light off.Should any of the sensors register something important in the mean time (say a leak), your processor will not know about it for possibly the next hour. Can I suggest to use Millis() instead of delays.I realize my comment has become longer than I wanted and I come with a lot ofrecommendations, please do not take that negatively. It is a good project, but could easily be further improved

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  • diy_bloke commented on zposner's instructable Planter Box1 month ago
    Planter Box

    In order to not let the soil out in between the twigs/sticks, you could line the inside with anti root cloth/landscaping cloth.High is great, especially if you get a bit older

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  • DIY UV Meter With Arduino and a Nokia 5110 Display

    @Arduinomster, my guess would be yes. Can make it with attiny85. probably even an attiny25

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  • diy_bloke commented on How-ToDo's instructable DIY Arduino Mood Lamp1 month ago
    DIY Arduino Mood Lamp

    ah ok... i had the impression it was 4 'walls' but your idea makes more sense. tnx

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  • Arduino Uno Wireless Weather Station   (Wunderground.com)

    Looks really great. Although I am quite sure that the ESP8266 alone would have been enough for the program, the lack of ADC ports (you need minimally 2) makes even the Wemos D1 unsuitable.Anyway, Love your shield

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  • diy_bloke commented on The Soldering Station's instructable ESP8266 Basement Monitor2 months ago
    ESP8266 Basement Monitor

    Thanks, Frankly speaking I have had quite a few DHT11's die on me as well. Ironically they cant really stand moisture. Up to 95% is ok. I had some outside in a heavy fog (98%RH) and they died. Oh well, may go for DHT22... or maybe BMP280

    Thanks, Frankly speaking I have had quite a few DHT11's die on me as well. Ironically they cant really stand moisture. Up to 95% is ok. I had some outside in a heavy fog (98%RH) and they died. Oh well, may go for DHT22... or maybe BMP280

    Thanks, Frankly speaking I have had quite a few DHT11's die on me as well. Ironically they cant really stand moisture. Up to 95% is ok. I had some outside in a heavy fog (98%RH) and they died. Oh well, may go for DHT22... or maybe BMP280

    Looks great.I usually stick to a DHT11 As I am more interested in an indication of humidity rather than the exact degree, plus I hear that the life expectancy of a DHT22 is less than the DHT11.What is your experience with that uptil now?

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  • diy_bloke commented on How-ToDo's instructable DIY Arduino Mood Lamp2 months ago
    DIY Arduino Mood Lamp

    I see a lot about the woodworking but not much about the acrylic rim. How did you do that?

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable Arduino Controlled Light Dimmer2 months ago
    Arduino Controlled Light Dimmer

    The output voltage is basically the same as the grid voltage you put in. So if you connect it to 220V it will be 220...... when the triac is open

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino2 months ago
    AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino

    I understand.The reversed logic was something I did because I aimed for optimal timing around the Mosfet so it would switch fast and the reversed logic suited me.If you want it reversed can use the Optocoupler in series with the 100k

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino2 months ago
    AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino

    I can only state that I didnt see any flickering with the standardarduino that uses that uses the mentioned frequencies.the flickering is very much depending on the time it takes to open the MOSFET and that again depends on the available voltage for the gate.I ahve constructed my circuit such that there is a fast rise and drop of the available gate voltage.Sir O's circuit is different, you might have seen the discussion on the two antiparrallel diodes that nor I nor acolomichi understood and that SirO could not explain other than 'it works and if repalced by a wirelink it doesnot'In general a higher frequency would probably give more trouble in Switching the FET. In that aspect it is surprising that SirO finds that 62kHz didnt cause any flickering and 32kHz did.As he changed his cir...

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    I can only state that I didnt see any flickering with the standardarduino that uses that uses the mentioned frequencies.the flickering is very much depending on the time it takes to open the MOSFET and that again depends on the available voltage for the gate.I ahve constructed my circuit such that there is a fast rise and drop of the available gate voltage.Sir O's circuit is different, you might have seen the discussion on the two antiparrallel diodes that nor I nor acolomichi understood and that SirO could not explain other than 'it works and if repalced by a wirelink it doesnot'In general a higher frequency would probably give more trouble in Switching the FET. In that aspect it is surprising that SirO finds that 62kHz didnt cause any flickering and 32kHz did.As he changed his circuit a few times and he himself says he does not fully understand how it works, I feel a bit hesitant to make any further comment on his 32kHz vs 62kHz experience

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  • Programming P89V51RD2 (8051 Microcontroller) on Breadboard

    That good old 8051!My firstt steps in microcontroller progarmming with the 8052AH basic, 80C32, 80C31. Assembly programmingoh well, nostalgia

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  • diy_bloke commented on yoh-there's instructable MQTT and Wifi Powered Mailbox Flag2 months ago
    MQTT and Wifi Powered Mailbox Flag

    Well done. A mailbox that actually sends you mail upon receiving mail :-)I have seen various diy smart mailbox projects and many people had trouble with the switch: reed switches, LDR's, Opto. Yours is of utmost simplicity, but seems the best solution, eventhough you said you preferred a reed switch. I have seen people complain the reed switch got magnetized and got 'sticky'.We'll see how yr match will do in humid weather, but then there are always plastic lollipop sticks :-)

    With regard to a an Android dashboard app triggering an OS alert... one would think that would be simple but I havent found one either. Always comes down to 'signing up for a notification service', which i do not want

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  • A Simple MQTT Pub/Sub Node With Arduino UNO and W5100 Ethernetshield

    thank you for your kind words. Relays shld not just go on and off. Can you try and paste yr code?

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino2 months ago
    AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino

    thank you for yr kind words.You may want to check here before you decide on what to build: https://www.instructables.com/id/A-PWM-Dimmer-Revi...

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable Using an I2C LCD on Attiny852 months ago
     Using an I2C LCD on Attiny85

    I agree withThijx, could be loose connection I think i did not use any pull-ups as in my case the i2c module had pull ups.Anyway, I am happy you got it working

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable Using an I2C LCD on Attiny852 months ago
     Using an I2C LCD on Attiny85

    I am happy you got it working :-)

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  • diy_bloke commented on adriaanb's instructable Battery Operated Drip System2 months ago
    Battery Operated Drip System

    Thanks. well that is still fairly decent, especially since the UNO is not really powerfriendly :-)Just wondering.... 2 years later.... would you have done things different? change things?

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  • Send Sensor Data (DHT11 & BMP180) to ThingSpeak With an Arduino, Using Cable or WiFi (ESP8266) or Use ESP8266 Alone (UPDATED AUGUST 2016)

    thanks for sharing. I see you use a bare esp-12. From a battery point of view that is a good choice

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable Arduino Controlled Light Dimmer2 months ago
    Arduino Controlled Light Dimmer

    can just attach the two bulbs in parallel. if you want them o dim them seperately have a look at my 3 channel dimmerhttps://www.instructables.com/id/3-channel-Dimmerf...

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino2 months ago
    AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino

    yes, bt indeed a heatsink is always advisable

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable Installing Attiny13 Core Files2 months ago
    Installing Attiny13 Core Files

    It seems you are using a library that makes calls that are not supported in the microcore, so depending on what you exactly want to do, you need to do some prgramming around that

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable Arduino Controlled Light Dimmer2 months ago
    Arduino Controlled Light Dimmer

    I am nut sure if i understand your question. The MOC3021 should be connected as in the circuit. In that, pin 2 is connected to 0 Volt/ground and pin 1 to an arduino pin via a resistor. 4 and 6 are the secundary ones and 3 and 5 should not be connected

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable Using an I2C LCD on Attiny852 months ago
     Using an I2C LCD on Attiny85

    if working noneed to change. As far as iknow the i2c lcd module has pull ups47k is by theway an unusual value for i2c. I presume you mean 4k7

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino3 months ago
    AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino

    it depends what you want it to do

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable Arduino Controlled Light Dimmer3 months ago
    Arduino Controlled Light Dimmer

    Good. Still a bit surprising as I have used the TIC206 with no problem

    well it is not much different from using an Arduino. there are several ways to communicate with the ESP8266, but you could have it serve a webpage with a box on it in which you can enter a dimming level. Probably could make that a slider too. That dimming level you then use to determine the phase cut of the TRIAC

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable 433 MHz Coil Loaded Antenna3 months ago
    433 MHz Coil Loaded Antenna

    no i didnt remove anything. just added the antenna to where it says "ANT"

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  • diy_bloke commented on acolomitchi's instructable A PWM Dimmer Revisited3 months ago
    A PWM Dimmer Revisited

    "3 smaller caps in parallel will reduce the ESR (whatever value that ESR would be)."Presuming that the ESR does not vary much with the actual capacity of a single capacitor (meaning that say a 100uF has a comparable ESR to a 10uF), this would ideally divide your ESR by 3 (I know, simplification)

    I admit, at my age I may stick in a wire at one end, and already forget where it is supposed to go when I get to the other end

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable 433 MHz Coil Loaded Antenna3 months ago
    433 MHz Coil Loaded Antenna

    good idea. Thanks for the pics

    my pleasure. I am happy it works well for you, just as it did for me.

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  • diy_bloke commented on acolomitchi's instructable A PWM Dimmer Revisited3 months ago
    A PWM Dimmer Revisited

    Just a remark about the breadboard issue. I fully agree. I had used the breadboard only as a quick test, but even with low voltage i never use breadboard for a final setup. Mainly because wires can become loose and then after a few months one may think Hmmmm, where did that yellow wire plug in again :-)

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  • diy_bloke commented on acolomitchi's instructable A PWM Dimmer Revisited3 months ago
    A PWM Dimmer Revisited

    If my eyes dont cheat me you have a 66kOhm (5x330) in the voltage divider, so with 30uF, and say 300 Volt you'd be around a 15 Volt charge in 100mS. But as you do not short out the full charge, I think you will not really have a problem there

    thats true, i kinda used it loosely in analogy to the original design

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  • diy_bloke commented on acolomitchi's instructable A PWM Dimmer Revisited3 months ago
    A PWM Dimmer Revisited

    Looks great. Very tidy.Regarding the high voltage capacitor in my earlier design, that was to avoid any heating issues caused by RC delay on the gate voltage.However, by now I can confirm that a 50uF low voltage cap on the low side of the voltage divider works just as well, without noticeabe heating of the FET. The 22uF in your design probably does too, but I just did not try that yet :-)

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable Arduino Controlled Light Dimmer3 months ago
    Arduino Controlled Light Dimmer

    Thejo, in the comments this issue is addressed several times, Triacs are just not the most suitable to regulate motors. They can but humming, usually caused by harmonic distortion of the wave pattern is often a byproduct. Reduction measures are particular the type of motor used in the fan, but I would start with a snubber network

    Thejo, in the comments this issue is addressed several times, Triacs are just not the most suitable to regulate motors. They can but humming, usually caused by harmonic distortion of the wave pattern is often a byproduct

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