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55Instructables1,635,768Views3,547CommentsEuropeJoined February 14th, 2009
I am a physician by trade. After a career in the pharmeceutical world I decided to take it a bit slower and do things I like. Other than my hobbies that involves grassroots medicine in S.E.&P Asia. I have built low income cow dung bio-reactors, solar lamps and family fish ponds as well as houses out of every kind of thinkable material. Instructables is an endless source of inspiration for my projects.

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  • Installing  MQTT Broker(Mosquitto) on Raspberry Pi

    Thank you. Fortunately it is a while ago and just apt-get install ended up working for me

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  • diy_bloke commented on sfrwmaker's instructable Water Meter Automation3 days ago
    Water Meter Automation

    indeed, new to me too

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino3 days ago
    AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino

    Alexander, the power of th lamps isnt really anything that determines safety, so i cant think of any changes on that aspext.A fuse can be put anywhere in the supply line, either in the AC line or t the DC line.I have not tried myself but supposedly people have put the optocoupler in series with the 100k resistor to reverse the action

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  • 3 Channel Dimmer/fader for Arduino or Other Microcontroller

    as afar as I know it makes no difference. after all it is in series with the load.I am happy you worked out the problem with the loose wire :-)Dimmable lEDs are not always that easy to dim without special dimmers. At least yours showed some response. Incandescents are still the best companion for TRIACS

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  • diy_bloke commented on sfrwmaker's instructable Water Meter Automation5 days ago
    Water Meter Automation

    Very interesting, but I lost you somehere in Step 1. You say the watermeter is no place for an ESP8266 because it is ofthen in dark remote places, so you come up with another device that you place 'near the water meter' like 'under the kitchen sink'.Is the cord from yr water meter going all the way to the kitchen sink?Perhaps I just have a complete wrong image about watermeter placement. Where I live in 99% of cases they are in a hole in the ground, usyally right behind the front door (indeed, the exact place where you'd want to have a hole)

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable Arduino Controlled Light Dimmer1 week ago
    Arduino Controlled Light Dimmer

    yes ofcourse that is possible, but if i were you I would not use the MOC3021 but the MOC3041. The difference is that the MOC3041 has a zerocross detection ad will always switch on on the zerocross. The effect is that you have less noise on the line and your load will always get the initial full wave.Something else you need to consider: when I designed this, everything was 5 volt and it was OK to use an LED in series with the optocoupler. The Raspi is 3.3Volt and you then do not want the voltage drop over the diode, so I would leave out the diode

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  • 3 Channel Dimmer/fader for Arduino or Other Microcontroller

    yes you can leave any of the channels off, or add a channel. The max number I tried was 6, that is gonna be a bit tricky to keep delay time, but it is possible.the LTV814 is a fine chip. used it on many occasions. Just remember it is not pin compatible to the il251, but I think it is fully compatibel with the EL814.I know the excitement :-)But realize that the programming is a bit demanding as you likely have to keep a separate timer (millis() is fine) for each channel, unless you are using steady ligthing patterns

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  • 3 Channel Dimmer/fader for Arduino or Other Microcontroller

    Sorry, BT131, typo

    apologies for my late reply. I was indisposed for a few days.I had chosen the M5F600 Triac mainly because small, cheap and a sensitive gate but I am not stuck on it. The BT136 u link to seems to have rather similar specs though I am not entirely sure abut the gate sensitivity, but I am quite sure it will work.Mind you though that a TO92 cant handle really big currents like the TO220.For full current you mey need some form of heatsink, which is always a bit trickier with a TO92

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable Arduino Controlled Light Dimmer1 week ago
    Arduino Controlled Light Dimmer

    I think you are now mixing up two things. The light dimmer here does not work with PWM, it works with phasecutting. PWM is a completely different thing

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  • Using 433MHz Remote Controlled Switches on Arduino

    Sorry, it is completely unclear to me what you are asking

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable Arduino Controlled Light Dimmer1 week ago
    Arduino Controlled Light Dimmer

    yes you could, but you only need the zero detection once. Have a look at my 3 way dimmer

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  • diy_bloke commented on BenAustin146's instructable DIY Air Raid Siren1 week ago
    DIY Air Raid Siren

    apologies, i must have missed that

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  • Installing  MQTT Broker(Mosquitto) on Raspberry Pi

    not sure what you are replying to

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  • Alarm PIR Movement to Home Automation

    ah ok, I see. thanks for your extensive explanation

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  • diy_bloke commented on BenAustin146's instructable DIY Air Raid Siren1 week ago
    DIY Air Raid Siren

    oh and that wasnt meant as criticism, just some extra info :-)

    cool. Matthias Wandell on youtube has made something similar. Pretty cool

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  • diy_bloke commented on videoschmideo's instructable Build an Audio Memory Chest!1 week ago
    Build an Audio Memory Chest!

    That is a great idea and done very well too

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  • diy_bloke commented on OnyxEpoch's instructable Bluetooth Cedar Speaker Box1 week ago
    Bluetooth Cedar Speaker Box

    Great woodwork.

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  • Retro Art Deco Radiogram Surround Sound Cinema Speaker

    I think you have done a great job. great idea, great technique in making itif I am allowed just a tiny bit of constructive criticism, I think it would gain a lot by giving it a more high end glossy surface. I can see it has a glossy surface and maybe it loses a bit in the picture and maybe it is just a matter of my personal taste.nevertheless, great job

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  • diy_bloke commented on Katod's instructable Hand Crafted Guitar From Recycled Wood1 week ago
    Hand Crafted Guitar From Recycled Wood

    looks fantastic, sounds good tooAre those things called Toss rods or Truss rods?

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  • diy_bloke commented on Andrew Park's instructable Make Your Own Bluetooth Speaker1 week ago
  • Surround Sound With Drive-In Movie Speakers

    What you are missing is the back seat of an old chevy to listen to it

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  • diy_bloke commented on ThomasVDD's instructable Hard Drive Speaker1 week ago
    Hard Drive Speaker

    Fantastic. Totally useless but nevertheless fantastic ;-)

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  • diy_bloke commented on chimeranzl's instructable Alarm PIR Movement to Home Automation2 weeks ago
    Alarm PIR Movement to Home Automation

    looks great but I am a bit confused by the PIR's and the LM339. Don't the Pirs just give off a high or a low signal? so what are the comparators for then, or do i miss something?

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  • Realtek RTL8710 Alternative to ESP8266....

    "could be" True, but it isnt, at least the available ports are far from complete and their install is already tedious

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  • How to Cook the Ultimate Steak Sandwich

    This looks so good that I am sure it is illegal somewhere

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  • diy_bloke commented on rabbitcreek's instructable Weather Portal2 weeks ago
    Weather Portal

    I never realized that the hardest part of this project was to get an even coating on the pvc pipe. Even with a primer ;-)Well maybe I have to upload less than perfect pics

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  • Receiving and Sending Data Between Attiny85 (Arduino IDE 1.06) UPDATED Nov 2015

    if you are now using that same module and LCD then you know it is working.The program+library that I sent you works with this configurationaddr, en,rw,rs,d4,d5,d6,d7,bl,blpol *0x27, 2, 1, 0, 4, 5, 6, 7, 3, POSITIVE)That is the same that you are usingthe TinywireM version I am using is version 1.0.0

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  • Using 433MHz Remote Controlled Switches on Arduino

    dos not matter which pin you useIt isnot per se the library that uses A0 or D2, but the various scanning programs.With regard to your last question I am not sure what you are asking: You want to sniff a code and then alter it. Why then sniff it to begin with

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  • Receiving and Sending Data Between Attiny85 (Arduino IDE 1.06) UPDATED Nov 2015

    Well apparently we are advancing.With regard to 'not showing anything' are you using the right I2C address? Is the contrast potentiometer set right?

    no problem, but extra messages just make it more colluded.And indeed you are right, the comment section does get very unclear after a whileDid my compiling advice help?

    what LCD do you have? Did it come with an i2C module attached? Did you try it on an Arduino?

    I am a bit puzzled, I never felt the need to alter any frequencies in the TinyWireM library. What is more, my USI_TWI files dont even have the definitions you say you have changed. Are you sure you use the right library?Ofcourse the resistors are needed, nobody is disputing that, in fact, I was telling you they were needed.To avoid talking about two different things again: ALL I2C lines need pull up but as I said, the i2C to LCD adapter may already have pullups in which case you do not need to add extra, but if it doesnt ofcourse you need to add pullups yourselfWhy would you be using 'part of the broHogan library' If you start using "parts" of a library you can expect problemsJudging from the compilation errors, It seems you are calling the library more than once.To make sure ...

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    I am a bit puzzled, I never felt the need to alter any frequencies in the TinyWireM library. What is more, my USI_TWI files dont even have the definitions you say you have changed. Are you sure you use the right library?Ofcourse the resistors are needed, nobody is disputing that, in fact, I was telling you they were needed.To avoid talking about two different things again: ALL I2C lines need pull up but as I said, the i2C to LCD adapter may already have pullups in which case you do not need to add extra, but if it doesnt ofcourse you need to add pullups yourselfWhy would you be using 'part of the broHogan library' If you start using "parts" of a library you can expect problemsJudging from the compilation errors, It seems you are calling the library more than once.To make sure I downloaded the link myself again and just compiled it. As you see, compiles without any problems. I think that what might be happening is that somehow your system picks up on two libraries, so pls check if you are indeed using: #include "LiquidCrystal_I2C.h"and not #include <LiquidCrystal_I2C.h>if that is the case it should be OK, but in practice it isnt always. Check if your main LCD library (the one in your libraries folder) is perhaps called "LiquidCrystal_I2C.h" too. The Arduino IDE should be able to differentiate but it doesnt always. I suggest you temporarily rename those library files and try again.

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  • diy_bloke commented on planetleak's instructable ESP8266 TV Remote for Homekit2 weeks ago
    ESP8266 TV Remote for Homekit

    I presume you already found your answer, but in case you didnt, the answer is "NO".

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  • diy_bloke followed Ralph S Bacon2 weeks ago
      • #13 Matrix Membrane Switch (12-key 4x3) an Arduino PLUS a LED MAX7219 Display
      • #11 Arduino and LED 7-segment Displays Using a MAX7219 - Part 3
      • #10 Arduino and LED 7-segment Displays Using a MAX7219 - Part 2
  • Receiving and Sending Data Between Attiny85 (Arduino IDE 1.06) UPDATED Nov 2015

    wait a minuet, let me check, I might have sent the wrong link

    George indeed you are missing something, in the published code in this instructable, I am using an LCD that is driven by a Shiftregister, hence the code is that for a shiftregister.However, you asked if I could help you with code for an I2C LCD, so that is what I sent you in the link

    https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B6c8mGbetkOUYWJD...

    so what error messages do you get

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  • diy_bloke commented on eamonwalshdiy's instructable DIY Log Cabin Bird House2 weeks ago
  • Working With the Funduino W5100 Ethernet Module.

    My pleasure. Glad to help

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  • Adding an MCP23017 I/O Extender to Arduino or ESP8266

    Mosix, please read my caveat at the top

    Next to my earlier reply to yr question, pls also read my caveat at the top of the article

    Generally you would use bitwise operators for that, but can also do with setbit or bitWrite(). I suggest you best use the library. That Library however uses the bitWrite() method.Here is some general info on setting/clearing specific bits: https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=421029.0As you cannot directly alter 1 bit over the I2C port leaving the others untouched, obviously you need to know the current state of the specific Port (all 8 bits), do your operation on that one and then write the 8 bits back, something like this:regValue = readRegister(regAddr); // set the value for the particular bit bitWrite(regValue,bit,pValue); writeRegister(regAddr,regValue);

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  • diy_bloke commented on Kuzmanic's instructable Sonoff Garage Door Opener3 weeks ago
    Sonoff Garage Door Opener

    thanx, I thought so but just wanted to make sure

    Well done. Just a question though. It is not clear to me why you cut the relay from the mains power. Is that because your garage door opener trigger contact is Low Voltage?

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  • Ultimate Portable Power Source: Axim, PSP, and USB All-in-one Charger

    This is an approach I had been considering, but basically everybody is advising against putting 2 LM7805 regulators in parallel because the current draw might not be the same and each LM7805 in principle is also backfed by this circuit.It probably will work safely as long as you stay at lower currents, but It is not something I think could safely deliver 2 or 3 Amps and thus one might as well stick to one LM7805.Also a 9 Volt battery to produce 5 volt might not be the most efficient choice.I realise this is a rather 'old' instructable. Nowadays there are fairly cheap LM2596 based buck regulators that can deliver 2-3 amps with minimal loss

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  • Increasing Current on 78xx Series Regulators

    Interesting. I was considering a similar approach, but read just about everywhere it was a bad idea as both chips were not balanced. I see someone else brought up the same concern and got a reply that spoke of balancing by the developed heat. Not sure if that would work..As this is from 2006, would be interesting to hear the experience of the Author.Having said that, there are now (11 years later) cheap LM2596 buck converters that can deliver 3 amps (if cooled), so that might be a better option

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  • diy_bloke commented on SayantanM4's instructable Digital Dustbin4 weeks ago
    Digital Dustbin

    then I need another one to bring me my drinks ;-)Actually I have seen someone who build an outside trashcan that would put itself out on trash day and come back to the house after it was emptied.. But that had a rail from the house over the driveway to the curb.Currently I am making a shopping trolley that follows me (actually it follows my phone), have the concept working but you know how it is... many projects

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable 433 MHz Coil Loaded Antenna4 weeks ago
    433 MHz Coil Loaded Antenna

    yes you are fully correct. I am sending. Though I have done projects that involved receiving, my main use is sending. The receivers are commercial wall switches.Indeed, with interrupts and one pin it is a whole different ballgame.Yes had seen the pilight MQTT433gateway. You also may want to check github for a guy called "1technophile" he has an IR/433/MQTT/RFM69 hub

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  • diy_bloke commented on SayantanM4's instructable Digital Dustbin1 month ago
    Digital Dustbin

    Definitely a conversation piece

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino1 month ago
    AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino

    OK, just to make sure I tried again with the STP10NK60 and a 500 Watt lamp, works well, yes gets fairly warm after say 20 min but nothing serious.Then I tried again with a 730, works well too, gets hotter but nothing to worry about

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  • WifiManager + Emoncms (OEM) With ESP8266 (Temperature) #1

    Great. Emoncms is a very versatile StorageCloud, bit of a steel learning curve but very useful

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  • diy_bloke commented on SayantanM4's instructable Digital Dustbin1 month ago
    Digital Dustbin

    Great work, but I got to admit it looks like a part of an abandoned Soyuz space craft ;-)Not the proverbial "Wife friendly" designBut pls dont take that as an insult, I do think it looks great

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino1 month ago
    AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino

    ok, so just to get it staright. When you removed the optocoupler and put in a 500 Watt lamp the IRF730 burned out? Even though the gate was at 15 Volt.Honestly I cant really wrap my head around it The IRF 730 when fully open should be able to get 5.5 amps. Even if it is hot it still can deliver 3.5 amps and in short bursts even 22 amp.When you use a 500 Watt lamp the current is around 2 amps (when on 230 Volt). There shouldnt be a problem at all.When fully open the RDSon is 1 ohm so it would develop 2 Watt in warmth and that should not be a problem, definitely not instantaneous.There are several (remote) possibilities:There is a fault in yr circuit. Not the circuit as drawn, but as you built it, but I think you already checked an double checked it.The IRF730 has a max Gate voltage ...

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    ok, so just to get it staright. When you removed the optocoupler and put in a 500 Watt lamp the IRF730 burned out? Even though the gate was at 15 Volt.Honestly I cant really wrap my head around it The IRF 730 when fully open should be able to get 5.5 amps. Even if it is hot it still can deliver 3.5 amps and in short bursts even 22 amp.When you use a 500 Watt lamp the current is around 2 amps (when on 230 Volt). There shouldnt be a problem at all.When fully open the RDSon is 1 ohm so it would develop 2 Watt in warmth and that should not be a problem, definitely not instantaneous.There are several (remote) possibilities:There is a fault in yr circuit. Not the circuit as drawn, but as you built it, but I think you already checked an double checked it.The IRF730 has a max Gate voltage of 20 Volt, so 15 Volt is getting close but still shld be room enough. Also, then I wouldnt expect only the 500 watt to be a problem.Please do the following: check if the resistors of your voltage divider have the proper value and are connected properly.Also, did you use the version with a zener diode?

    OK I see you used the zener. Please check something else as well, can you measure if your diode bridge is connected correctly and that indeed you have DC on your lamp!

    then i must say i am getting at the end of my rope, did you measure if indeed you are feeding the lamp with DC?, not presume but actually measure?

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  • diy_bloke commented on DIYmechanics's instructable GLO: IoT Smart Light1 month ago
    GLO: IoT Smart Light

    Thanks. I have not had any problems as I didnt combine the two yet, but it is something i hear from various sources, so i was just wondering what your experience was

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  • Arduino Controlled RGB LED Strip for the Living Room

    Thanks, but maybe i amstill missing some basic info. Openhab sends an MQTT, but if i do that it goes to my mqtt broker, who resends it via the wifi/ethernet network.How in your case does the MQTT info get on an rfm69 transmitter.

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  • diy_bloke commented on Libahunt's instructable Automated Greenhouse Ventilation1 month ago
    Automated Greenhouse Ventilation

    Well done!!

    and not just the heat. Especially with tomatoes it shouldnt get too humid either

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable 433 MHz Coil Loaded Antenna1 month ago
    433 MHz Coil Loaded Antenna

    using a Wemos board (D1 mini). I am not sure how the witty cloud board exposes 5V to the pins. It has a 3v3 adapter and one can use the voltage from that.Though the 433MHz Transmitter works better on 5V vcc, it is no problem (as I experienced) to have the signal come from a 5V pin.yes, antenna makes a big difference. Before I made this one, only using a 17 cm wire, 433 Mhz wasnt a serious option

    Good luck :-)

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  • diy_bloke commented on rabbitcreek's instructable Weather Portal1 month ago
  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino1 month ago
    AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino

    dont overlook my earlier reply to your comment, just adding something here: Somehow I start to suspect the triggering of the 4N35. To get it into saturation, ideally one needs 10mA. The NodeMCU can deliver that. However with a forward voltage of 1.2 Volts there is 2 volts left over the 330 ohm resistor which comes to 6mA. Perhaps that is just a tadd too little, eventhough I have seen other people use a nodeMCU with 330 ohm and it is working for me as well.What value are you using for that series resistor?When you are ready/willing to try, I would propose the following:Totally remove your 4n35 from the circuit, add a 500 Watt lamp and plug it in. If my suspicion is right, it should just be on without problems. If that is the case, I suggest plugging the 4n35 back in again and try wit...

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    dont overlook my earlier reply to your comment, just adding something here: Somehow I start to suspect the triggering of the 4N35. To get it into saturation, ideally one needs 10mA. The NodeMCU can deliver that. However with a forward voltage of 1.2 Volts there is 2 volts left over the 330 ohm resistor which comes to 6mA. Perhaps that is just a tadd too little, eventhough I have seen other people use a nodeMCU with 330 ohm and it is working for me as well.What value are you using for that series resistor?When you are ready/willing to try, I would propose the following:Totally remove your 4n35 from the circuit, add a 500 Watt lamp and plug it in. If my suspicion is right, it should just be on without problems. If that is the case, I suggest plugging the 4n35 back in again and try with a 5 Volt arduinoIf that goes well: use a 270 ohm resistor or maybe a 220 ohm, although that is pushing it very close to the max of 12mA the GPIO pin can deliver

    checking yr code right now. Did you actually fully read my previous 2 comments?

    correct, the modified Giesberts circuit was just an intermediate (theoretical) step towards my simpeler circuit. One of the reasons I have chosen for the position of the optocoupler is that the switching would be faster, thus minimizing the time the mosfet would be in resistive mode. Same reason why I had chosen the capacitor to be over the High voltage supply line, rather than a capacitor over the gate (RC time and stuff like that)I didnt add cascade amp. the link you give is from Colomitchi.When I was reading up on IGBT's vs MOSFETS, it seemed that the demands of my circuit were more or less at the cross section of using a MOSFET or an IGBT. Both should be OK. Pricewise the MOSFET was a better choice and though I forgot what IGBT I tested, I didnt see much difference. Howe...

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    correct, the modified Giesberts circuit was just an intermediate (theoretical) step towards my simpeler circuit. One of the reasons I have chosen for the position of the optocoupler is that the switching would be faster, thus minimizing the time the mosfet would be in resistive mode. Same reason why I had chosen the capacitor to be over the High voltage supply line, rather than a capacitor over the gate (RC time and stuff like that)I didnt add cascade amp. the link you give is from Colomitchi.When I was reading up on IGBT's vs MOSFETS, it seemed that the demands of my circuit were more or less at the cross section of using a MOSFET or an IGBT. Both should be OK. Pricewise the MOSFET was a better choice and though I forgot what IGBT I tested, I didnt see much difference. However, I didnt do a durability test with the IGBT. I am sure it performs well also.Anyway, thanks for your feedback. I am happy that it is working for you

    ok thanks. In that case I am rather puzzled why your IRF730 would fry at 500 Watt. For a moment I thought maybe the nodeMCU pin wasnt fully opening the optocoupler, and thus driving the FET in resistive mode, but apparently that is not it. The NodeMCU pin doesnt supply the full 3.3 Volt, thats why I asked to put 3 Volt on it, but I dont think that really makes a difference. I styated the series resistor as 330-470 ohm... but for the nodeMCU I would certainly choose the 330 Ohm value.Honestly I am a bit baffled, I have had my recent breadboard version, with IRF730 running at 500 Watt for maybe 10 minutes (which is longer than your immediate burnout) and it gets a bit warm but nowhere near anything worrysome. Did have a small heatsink attached but I do not think that made the difference...

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    ok thanks. In that case I am rather puzzled why your IRF730 would fry at 500 Watt. For a moment I thought maybe the nodeMCU pin wasnt fully opening the optocoupler, and thus driving the FET in resistive mode, but apparently that is not it. The NodeMCU pin doesnt supply the full 3.3 Volt, thats why I asked to put 3 Volt on it, but I dont think that really makes a difference. I styated the series resistor as 330-470 ohm... but for the nodeMCU I would certainly choose the 330 Ohm value.Honestly I am a bit baffled, I have had my recent breadboard version, with IRF730 running at 500 Watt for maybe 10 minutes (which is longer than your immediate burnout) and it gets a bit warm but nowhere near anything worrysome. Did have a small heatsink attached but I do not think that made the difference.As a last resort, can you send me your program? just wanna make sure there are no unexpected issues there

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino1 month ago
    AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino

    ah ok, somehow I had in my head you were using Arduino. I think pin 5 and 6 of the arduino do not always go to full zero on PWM and I was thinking maybe your optocoupler stays open.As said, I put a new circuit together with a 730 and that happily does dim 500 Watt steered by an Arduino. I will try that on an ESP.The only reason I can think of when it is working on 100 and it burns on 500 Watt that somehow your IRF730 is driven into resistive mode

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino1 month ago
    AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino

    for this circuit?analogWrite(pin, value)

    "How to change the brightness without the changing of the gate voltage?"With PWM. The gate voltage is only 15 Volt or O Volt, nothing in betweenThe regulation is not with voltage but with PWM: That causes an ON or OFF.I already explained in previous comment that the ON/OFF when done fast translates to different brightness.The 7 Volt that you measure is not 7 volt, it is the average of 0 and 15 Volt, Your meter is too slow to hop between 0 and 15 voltSo you control the brightness with a PWM signal with varying dutycycle. It is the variation in the dutycycle (with a high enough frequency) that makes the lamp brighter or dimmer.If the frequency of your dutycycle is low, you will see the individual ON and OFF but if you increase the frequency (just the frequency, not the duty...

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    "How to change the brightness without the changing of the gate voltage?"With PWM. The gate voltage is only 15 Volt or O Volt, nothing in betweenThe regulation is not with voltage but with PWM: That causes an ON or OFF.I already explained in previous comment that the ON/OFF when done fast translates to different brightness.The 7 Volt that you measure is not 7 volt, it is the average of 0 and 15 Volt, Your meter is too slow to hop between 0 and 15 voltSo you control the brightness with a PWM signal with varying dutycycle. It is the variation in the dutycycle (with a high enough frequency) that makes the lamp brighter or dimmer.If the frequency of your dutycycle is low, you will see the individual ON and OFF but if you increase the frequency (just the frequency, not the dutycycle) you will see that that ON/OFF pattern suddenly becomes one brightness.Same as with any lamp on AC: because of the sinewave the intensity of the lamp varies, but because of the 50Hz frequency you do not see the change but rather just one light level.So if the frequency of your dutycycle (again, just the frequency, nit the dutycycle itself) is high enough (the Arduino is I think at 500Hz or something) the ON/OFF changes into one brightness level.If you then start changing the PWM that one brighnesslevel will vary between off and full on

    "How to change the brightness without the changing of the gate voltage?"With PWM. The gate voltage is only 15 Volt or 0 Volt, nothing in betweenThe regulation is not with voltage but with PWM: That causes an ON or OFF.I already explained in previous comment that the ON/OFF when done fast translates to different brightness.The 7 Volt that you measure is not 7 volt, it is the average of 0 and 15 Volt, Your meter is too slow to hop between 0 and 15 voltSo you control the brightness with a PWM signal with varying dutycycle. It is the variation in the dutycycle (with a high enough frequency) that makes the lamp brighter or dimmer.If the frequency of your dutycycle is low, you will see the individual ON and OFF but if you increase the frequency (just the frequency, not the duty...

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    "How to change the brightness without the changing of the gate voltage?"With PWM. The gate voltage is only 15 Volt or 0 Volt, nothing in betweenThe regulation is not with voltage but with PWM: That causes an ON or OFF.I already explained in previous comment that the ON/OFF when done fast translates to different brightness.The 7 Volt that you measure is not 7 volt, it is the average of 0 and 15 Volt, Your meter is too slow to hop between 0 and 15 voltSo you control the brightness with a PWM signal with varying dutycycle. It is the variation in the dutycycle (with a high enough frequency) that makes the lamp brighter or dimmer.If the frequency of your dutycycle is low, you will see the individual ON and OFF but if you increase the frequency (just the frequency, not the dutycycle) you will see that that ON/OFF pattern suddenly becomes one brightness.Same as with any lamp on AC: because of the sinewave the intensity of the lamp varies, but because of the 50Hz frequency you do not see the change but rather just one light level.So if the frequency of your dutycycle (again, just the frequency, nit the dutycycle itself) is high enough (the Arduino is I think at 500Hz or something) the ON/OFF changes into one brightness level.If you then start changing the PWM that one brighnesslevel will vary between off and full on

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino1 month ago
    AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino

    well that is basically what I have been telling you: The gate voltage should either be 15 volts or 0 volts. it should not and never be 7 volts.I am not sure where you get your 7 volts but your gate should be at 15 or 0. ON or OFF.I understand your purpose, you want to dim and thats what this is a dimmer, but it should be regulated with a PWM signal, not with a 7 Volt signal."If the IRF 730 must be open or closed at all times, it can not be seen as a dimmer."Obviously you have no idea how this dimmer works or what PWM is.The intention is that your lamp is OFF or ON, but at such a high speed that your eyes see it as more or less brightness of the lamp. A proper PWM signal fully opens or closes the OptocouplerIt makes no difference in the workings if you use an IRF730 or an STP1...

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    well that is basically what I have been telling you: The gate voltage should either be 15 volts or 0 volts. it should not and never be 7 volts.I am not sure where you get your 7 volts but your gate should be at 15 or 0. ON or OFF.I understand your purpose, you want to dim and thats what this is a dimmer, but it should be regulated with a PWM signal, not with a 7 Volt signal."If the IRF 730 must be open or closed at all times, it can not be seen as a dimmer."Obviously you have no idea how this dimmer works or what PWM is.The intention is that your lamp is OFF or ON, but at such a high speed that your eyes see it as more or less brightness of the lamp. A proper PWM signal fully opens or closes the OptocouplerIt makes no difference in the workings if you use an IRF730 or an STP10NK60Z, they are both MOSFETS, they work the same. The only difference is the load. 1000 Watt might be pushing it a bit for the 730, but the STP should be able to handle 4.5AMPSI still have no idea how you manage to put 7 volts on the gate, are you sure that is not an average voltage?I just made this dimmer again quickly on breadboard, with an IRF730 and it just works as it should, So before you blow up more MOSFETS, please check the gate voltage when your arduino sends a constant 5 Volt to the input of this circuit

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  • Reverse Flow Offset Smoker From an Old Water Boiler

    "All that work just to make two lips red' is ofcourse a reply one could give but then again sometimes it is best to just say nothing ;-)Anyway, it look sfantastic

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  • diy_bloke commented on rabbitcreek's instructable Solar Tide Clock1 month ago
    Solar Tide Clock

    pretty good. at first I thought it might just be a copy of what LukeMiller did, but you turned a program into a practical application. The servo gear is impressive on its own

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  • Turn a Water Bottle Into a Wine Glass

    I would say that this is an almost biblical instructable

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  • diy_bloke commented on mikeasaurus's instructable 10 Woodworking Tricks the Pros Use1 month ago
    10 Woodworking Tricks the Pros Use

    the set is the deviation of the tooth/teeth from the middle line of the blade. The left and right set +the thickness of the blade, make the kerf.At the same time 'kerf' is also a notch made by a knife

    the set is the deviation of the tooth/teeth from the middle line of the blade. The left and right set +the thickness of the blade, make the kerf

    I use a similar method for drawing straigth lines on pvc pipe

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino1 month ago
    AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino

    before you start burning up more MOSFETS you better first meticulously check the connections because an IRF730 should not blow up on a less than 2 amp current.Also, check the values of your resistors because the first thing I think about here is that the gate voltage somehow is way too high. If you are carefull, maybe you can try and measure that gatevoltage... but remember you are working on a live circuit then. If you do not feel comfortable doing that or if you are not sure about what you are doing then dontIf you cant find an 8 amp, take a 10 amp like the STP10NK60..... but first check your circuit. It is no use putting in mosfet after mosfet hoping that one will miraculously survive

    don't overlook my extensive reply from a few minutes ago, just wanted to say I understand what you are driving at with your 'I need an amplifier?'However... you don't. The circuit of colomitchi is a different circuit, he is dealing with an RC time that is defined bu the input capacity as well as his R8. My circuit is especially built for fast switching. When the optocoupler closes the RC time is practically zero thus the input capacitor is discharged practically directly.

    if it works with a 100 Watt Lamp I really cant see that a 500 Watt lamp would immediately blow up a mosfet that is capable of handling 5.5 ampere.I am not sure about your gate voltage. do you mean that it sort of varies? it should be either say 15 volts or zero, depending whether you measure in off or on state. So remove your arduino and please measure the Gate voltage. should be a constant voltage of around 15 VoltIf your Gate voltage is varying that would be a big strain on your mosfet that then can get into resistive state and yes that would be bad for a mosfet.The STP10NK60 has an input capacity of 1370pF which is more than twice that of the IRF730.although the 600pF of the IRG730 is better, its RDSon is 1 ohm whereas the STP has a lower RDSonI am not sure why you think you w...

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    if it works with a 100 Watt Lamp I really cant see that a 500 Watt lamp would immediately blow up a mosfet that is capable of handling 5.5 ampere.I am not sure about your gate voltage. do you mean that it sort of varies? it should be either say 15 volts or zero, depending whether you measure in off or on state. So remove your arduino and please measure the Gate voltage. should be a constant voltage of around 15 VoltIf your Gate voltage is varying that would be a big strain on your mosfet that then can get into resistive state and yes that would be bad for a mosfet.The STP10NK60 has an input capacity of 1370pF which is more than twice that of the IRF730.although the 600pF of the IRG730 is better, its RDSon is 1 ohm whereas the STP has a lower RDSonI am not sure why you think you would need an amplifier. I know colomitchi's instructable quite well but I am not sure what yr link wants to point out.Mosfets operate like switches, if they get proper gate voltage they open and if the dont get gate voltage they close. The resistance of that switch (the RDSon) in a good mosfet is small.The problem is when the MOSFET does not get a proper gate voltage but something half half. At that moment the MOSFET does not work like a switch anymore but like some sort of resistor. Obviously when acting like a resistor the current will develop a lot of heat. When the temperature of the mosfet goes up... so does the resistance, leading to even more heat development.therefore it is important to have a the mosfet fully opened or closed and hence the proper gate voltage is important. So if you say it is 1-15 volt that sounds a lot of alarmbells.If the Gatevoltage is at say 4 Volts, the IRF730 can only handle 200mA

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  • diy_bloke commented on nerdyKat's instructable Wooden Bird Feeder1 month ago
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