Introduction: ASPIR: Full-Size 3D-Printed Humanoid Robot

Picture of ASPIR: Full-Size 3D-Printed Humanoid Robot

Autonomous Support and Positive Inspiration Robot (ASPIR) is a full-size, 4.3-ft open-source 3D-printed humanoid robot that anyone can build with enough drive and determination.

Table of Contents
We've split this massive 80-step Instructable into 10 easy-to-read chapters linked below for your reading convenience:

  1. Intro
  2. Parts
  3. Arms
  4. Head
  5. Legs
  6. Chest
  7. Merging
  8. Wiring
  9. Shells
  10. Conclusion

Notes: This is a very advanced and large Instructables project! We recommend you have significant 3D-printing experience before attempting this project. Expected build time will be several months with an estimated build cost of roughly $2500 (this cost may be lower or higher depending on which suppliers you use and which parts you already have). Note that this Instructable only covers the hardware construction, and not the software (this is currently under development). With that being said, full speed ahead and good luck!

Step 1: About ASPIR

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ASPIR is the spiritual successor to Halley, the Ambassador Robot 001 (2015), a popular low-cost, open-source, 2.6-foot laser-cut humanoid robot. Over the course of showcasing the Halley Robot, we've found that humanoid robots are awesome at looking human and eliciting social-emotional responses from human viewers. There are plenty of humanoid robots out there for sale, but they all really fall into just two categories: affordable toy hobbyist robots that are less than 2-feet tall, and full-size, and research-grade humanoid robots that cost more than new sports cars. We wanted to bring the best of both worlds together with an affordable, open-source full-size humanoid robot. And thus the ASPIR project was born.

Step 2: About Us

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Choitek is an advanced educational technology company committed to preparing the students of today to become the artists, engineers, and entrepreneurs of tomorrow by building the biggest, boldest, and most incredibly awesome robots to teach and inspire. We are passionate members of the open-source community and believe that learning is maximized for the good of everyone when there are no proprietary black boxes that exist to conceal and obfuscate technology. With that being said, we hope you'll join us in this exciting adventure of building the future of robotics together.

(Note: our company is currently doing research in seeing how humanoid robots like ASPIR can be used to inspire more girls into STEM. If you are interested in collaborating with us, feel free to let us know!)

Step 3: Special Thanks

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The ASPIR Project is made possible with the generous support of the Frank-Ratchye STUDIO for Creative Inquiry of Carnegie Mellon University:

"The Frank-Ratchye STUDIO for Creative Inquiry is a flexible laboratory for new modes of arts research, production and presentation. Founded in 1989 within the College of Fine Arts at Carnegie Mellon University (CMU), the STUDIO serves as a locus for hybrid enterprises on the CMU campus, the Pittsburgh region, and internationally. Our current emphasis on new-media arts builds on more than two decades of experience hosting interdisciplinary artists in an environment enriched by world-class science and engineering departments. Through our residencies and outreach programs, the STUDIO provides opportunities for learning, dialogue and research that lead to innovative breakthroughs, new policies, and the redefinition of the role of artists in a quickly changing world."

Step 4: Servos, Servos, Servos

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With 6 super-size mega servos per each leg, 4 high-torque standard servos for each arm, 5 metal-gear micro servos for each hand, and 2 additional standard servos for the head's pan/tilt mechanism, the ASPIR robot's actuators move with a staggering total of 33 degrees of freedom. For your reference, we have included sample reference links to various servomotors you will need to build the ASPIR robot:

(Note: Servo cost and quality is highly variable depending on which supplier you use. We've provided some sample links to help you along your way.)

Step 5: Electronics, Electronics, Electronics

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In addition to 33 high-torque servomotors, you will also need a variety of other electronic components to control and power the ASPIR robot. For your reference, we have included sample reference links to other electronic and mechanical components you will need to build the ASPIR robot:

(Note: While these parts provided in the links above will be electronically compatible, keep in mind that the exact CAD dimensions needed to adapt certain electronic and mechanical parts may vary by component.)

Step 6: 300 Hours of 3D Printing!

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As mentioned in the introduction previously, the ASPIR is a supermassive 3D printing endeavor. With over 90 parts to print, total estimated print time using standard 3D filament extrusion, infill and layer height settings is expected to be somewhere in the ballpark of 300 hours. This will likely consume 5 rolls of 1 kg (2.2lb) filament, not including printing failures and retries (We used Robo3D PLA rolls for all our 3D printing needs). Also note that you will need a large 3D printer with a minimum build plate size of 10x10x10in (250x250x250mm), such as the Lulzbot TAZ 6 for some of the larger 3D printed pieces of the ASPIR robot. Here are all of the files you will need to 3D print:

Once you've got all the parts, let's begin!

Step 7: Arms 1

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To begin, we'll start with our 3D printed hands. These hands are specially designed to be flexible even when printing with PLA. Attach 5 micro servos, one for each finger on the 3D printed hand.

Step 8: Arms 2

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Now, attach the wrist piece to the hand with two screws. Then slot the 100mm aluminum hex rod into the wrist piece.

Step 9: Arms 3

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If you have not done so already, go ahead and route string onto the micro servo's horns with the forward-leading edge nubs on each of the fingers. Be sure to tie a firm knot on each of the fingers, and minimize string slop by making a tight connection between the micro servo horn, the string and the leading-edge nub on each finger.

Step 10: Arms 4

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Continue the construction of the arms by attaching the lower arm piece to the end of the hex rod. Attach a standard servo to the lower arm piece and secure it with 4 screws and washers.

Step 11: Arms 5

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Continue the assembly of the arm by attaching the servo horn hinge part to the lower arm and fasten it with 4 screws.

Step 12: Arms 6

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Now, extend the upper arm by slotting another 100mm aluminum hex rod into the hinge joint, and fasten another 3d printed hinge joint on the other end of the 100mm aluminum hex rod.

Step 13: Arms 7

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We are now assembling the shoulder joint. Begin by grabbing another standard servo and secure it to the first shoulder piece using 4 screws and 4 washers.

Step 14: Arms 8

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Slot and fasten the shoulder assembly to the rest of the shoulder pieces. The bottom circular piece should be able to pivot on the servo's gear axis.

Step 15: Arms 9

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Connect the shoulder assembly to the upper arm servo motor with the last shoulder piece with 4 additional screws.

Step 16: Arms 10

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Combine the shoulder assembly with the lower/upper arm assembly at the swivel point at the top of the arm assembly. The parts should join at the upper arm's hinge joint. This concludes the assembly of ASPIR's arm.

(Note: you will need to repeat all ten steps for the arm assembly for the other arm, as ASPIR has two arms, left and right.)

Step 17: Head 1

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We are now assembling ASPIR's head. Begin by attaching a standard servo to the robot's neck piece with 4 screws and 4 washers.

Step 18: Head 2

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Like the pivoting shoulder assembly earlier, attach a pivoting circular head to the standard servo horn, and secure it with the circular head holder.

Step 19: Head 3

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Now attach the base platform of the robot's head onto the circular neck pivot mechanism from the previous step with four screws.

Step 20: Head 4

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Attach another standard servo to the base platform with 4 screws and 4 washers. Attach head tilt linkages to the servo's horn. Make sure the head tilt linkages are able to spin freely.

Step 21: Head 5

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Attach the phone face plate holder onto the front of the base platform. Connect the back of the phone face plate holder onto the servo tilt linkages. Make sure the head can rotate back and forth 60 degrees.

Step 22: Head 6

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Slide the 5.5-inch Android phone into the phone face holder. (A slim iPhone with the same dimensions should do the trick as well. Phones with other dimensions have not been tested.)

Step 23: Head 7

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Secure the phone's position by fastening the laser rangefinder on the left side of the robot's face with 2 screws.

Step 24: Head 8

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Slot in a 60mm aluminum hex rod into the bottom of the robot's neck. This concludes the assembly of the robot's head.

Step 25: Legs 1

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We are now beginning assembly of ASPIR's legs. To start, fasten the robot's forward and hind foot pieces together with two large screws. Make sure the forefoot is able to spin freely.

Step 26: Legs 2

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Attach 2 RC shock absorbers on the forward and back foot pieces as shown. The foot piece should now flex around roughly 30 degrees and bounce back.

Step 27: Legs 3

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Begin assembling the ankle with two extra large servos, and fasten them together with 4 screws and 4 washers.

Step 28: Legs 4

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Complete the connection with the other ankle piece and fasten the connection with 4 more screws and washers.

Step 29: Legs 5

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Attach the foot connector piece with one large screw on the back and 4 small screws on the servo horn.

Step 30: Legs 6

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Attach the top ankle connector to the rest of the ankle assembly on the other large servo with 4 small screws and one large screw.

Step 31: Legs 7

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Slot two 210mm hex rods to the ankle assembly. On the other end of the hex rods, slot the lower knee piece.

Step 32: Legs 8

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Fasten an extra large servo onto the knee piece with 4 screws and 4 washers.

Step 33: Legs 9

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Connect the upper knee piece onto the knee's large servo motor horn with 4 small screws and 1 large screw.

Step 34: Legs 10

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Slot two more 210mm hex rods onto the knee assembly.

Step 35: Legs 11

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Begin construction of the thigh by slotting a 5V10A power adapter into the two power adapter holder pieces.

Step 36: Legs 12

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Slide the thigh assembly into the 2 hex rods on the robot's upper leg.

Step 37: Legs 13

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Lock the thigh into place by slotting a hinge joint part onto the 2 hex rods on the upper leg.

Step 38: Legs 14

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Begin the hip joint assembly by connecting the large circular head onto a large servo motor's horn.

Step 39: Legs 15

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Slide the hip servo holder onto the large servo motor and fasten 4 screws with 4 washers.

Step 40: Legs 16

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Slide the hip servo assembly into the other hip piece so that the pivot joint can spin. Fasten this piece into place with 4 screws.

Step 41: Legs 17

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Attach another large servo onto the hip assembly with 4 screws and 4 washers.

Step 42: Legs 18

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Fasten an upper leg servo holder part with 4 screws, on the circular pivot joint.

Step 43: Legs 19

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Fasten an extra large servo onto the large part upper leg servo holder from the previous step with 4 screws and 4 washers.

Step 44: Legs 20

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Connect the completed hip assembly onto the rest of the leg assembly at the upper leg hinge joint part. Fasten it with 4 small screws and one large screw.

Step 45: Legs 21

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Connect the foot assembly onto the bottom end of the rest of the leg assembly and secure it with 6 screws. You are now done with the leg assembly for now. Repeat steps 25-45 to create the other leg so that you have both right and left legs for the ASPIR robot.

Step 46: Chest 1

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Begin the chest assembly by fastening large circular servo horns on the left and right sides of the large pelvis piece.

Step 47: Chest 2

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Slot four 120mm hex rods onto the pelvis part.

Step 48: Chest 3

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Slide an Arduino holder plate onto the back two hex rods. Slot the lower torso piece onto the four hex rods.

Step 49: Chest 4

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Attach an extra large servo onto the lower torso piece and fasten it into place with 4 screws and 4 washers.

Step 50: Chest 5

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Connect an extra large circular servo horn onto the upper torso piece with 4 screws.

Step 51: Chest 6

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On the back of the upper torso piece, attach the back switch guard piece with 5 screws.

Step 52: Chest 7

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Fasten the webcam holder on the front of the upper torso assembly with 3 screws.

Step 53: Chest 8

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Slot a USB webcam into the webcam holder.

Step 54: Chest 9

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Connect the upper torso assembly with the lower torso assembly at the extra large servo horn.

Step 55: Chest 10

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Attach an Arduino Mega 2560 onto the back Arduino plate with 4 screws and 4 spacers.

Step 56: Chest 11

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Connect the Arduino Mega Servo Shield directly on top of the Arduino Mega 2560.

Step 57: Merging 1

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Connect the head assembly with the torso assembly between the neck hex rod and the upper torso piece.

Step 58: Merging 2

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Merge the left and right and left arm assemblies with the rest of the torso assembly at the shoulder's hex rods.

Step 59: Merging 3

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Fasten RC shock absorbers beneath both arm hex rod connections. Make sure the shoulder assembly can flex about 30 degrees outwards.

Step 60: Merging 4

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Merge the left and right legs together to the rest of the torso assembly at the large hip servos. Use large screws to secure the pivot joints.

Step 61: Wiring 1

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On the back of the robot, attach a 4-port USB hub directly above the Arduino Mega Servo Shield.

Step 62: Wiring 2

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Begin wiring all 33 servos to the Arduino Mega Servo Shield using the servo extension cables. Also hookup the laser distance rangefinder from the robot's head onto the Arduino Mega Servo Shield. We recommend using standard cable ties to help organize the wires.

Step 63: Wiring 3

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Finally, complete the wiring by connecting the Arduino Mega, the Android phone, and the webcam onto the 4-port USB Hub using standard USB cables. Attach a USB extension cable to extend the length of the 4-port USB Hub source.

Step 64: Shells 1

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Begin getting the shells of the head by fastening connector plates on the inside of the robot's back head shell piece.

Step 65: Shells 2

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Attach the robot's front face shell piece onto the phone plate holder. Fasten it with 4 screws.

Step 66: Shells 3

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Screw on the robot's back head shell piece onto the robot's front face shell piece.

Step 67: Shells 4

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Connect the back shell piece of the neck onto the robot's neck assembly. Make sure the neck wires are fit snugly inside.

Step 68: Shells 5

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Connect the front shell piece of the neck onto the robot's neck assembly. Make sure the neck wires are fit snugly inside.

Step 69: Shells 6

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For each of the left and right lower arms, screw on a back lower arm shell piece.

Step 70: Shells 7

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For each of the left and right lower arms, screw on a front lower arm shell piece. Make sure the arm wires are snugly fit.

Step 71: Shells 8

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For each of the left and right upper arms, screw on a back upper arm shell piece. Make sure the arm wires are snugly fit.

Step 72: Shells 9

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For each of the left and right lower arms, screw on a front upper arm shell piece. Make sure the arm wires are snugly fit.

Step 73: Shells 10

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For each of the left and right lower legs, screw on a back lower leg shell piece. Make sure the leg wires are snugly fit.

Step 74: Shells 11

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For each of the left and right lower legs, screw on a front lower leg shell piece. Make sure the leg wires are snugly fit.

Step 75: Shells 12

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For each of the left and right upper legs, screw on a front upper leg shell piece on the power adapter holder thighs. Make sure the leg wires are snugly fit.

Step 76: Shells 13

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For each of the left and right upper legs, screw on a back upper leg shell piece on the power adapter holder thighs. Make sure the leg wires are snugly fit.

Step 77: Shells 14

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For the front and back of the ASPIR robot's lower torso, attach a front shell piece. When you are done, screw on a back lower torso piece as well.

Step 78: Shells 15

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Attach the front upper torso shell piece onto the front of the ASPIR robot's chest so that the webcam pokes out in the center of the torso. When you are done, screw on the back upper torso shell piece onto the back of the ASPIR robot's chest.

Step 79: Finishing Touches

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Make sure that the screws are nice and tight and the wires are snugly fit inside all of the shell pieces. If everything looks to be hooked up correctly, test each of the servo's using Arduino's Servo Sweep example on each of the pins. (Note: Pay close attention to each of the servo ranges, as not all servos have the capability to rotate the full 0-180 degrees due to their arrangement.)

Step 80: Conclusion

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And there you have it! Your very own full-size 3D-printed humanoid robot, built with several months of your good, hard work. (Go ahead and pat yourself on the pack a couple thousand times. You've earned it.)

You are now free to to do whatever forward-thinking engineers, inventors, and innovators like you do with humanoid robots. Perhaps you want ASPIR to be a robotic friend to keep you company? Maybe you want a robotic study-buddy? Or perhaps you want to try to build an army of these machines to conquer the world like the dystopian evil mad scientist you know you are? (It's going to need quite a few improvements before being ready for military field deployments...)

My current software to get the robot doing these things is currently in the works, and it's certainly going to be a while before it becomes fully ready to go. Due to it's prototypical nature, note that the current design of ASPIR is highly limited in its capabilities; it's certainly not perfect as it is now and it probably never will be. But this is ultimately a good thing - this leaves plenty of room to improve, make modifications, and develop advancements in the field of robotics with research you may truly call your own.

If you choose to further develop this project, please let me know! I would absolutely love to see what you can make out of this project. If you have any other questions, concerns, or comments about this project or how I could improve, I would love to hear your thoughts. In any case, I hope you enjoyed following this Instructable as much as I had writing it. Now go forth and do great things!

Excelsior, -John Choi


IgorF2 (author)2017-11-18

Fantastic! Congratulations! :D

You're using the smarphone only as an eye display only? I liked the idea for the eyes!

It doesn't run on batteries, right?

I embedded a smartphone on the chest of my robot as well. I use it for broadcasting audio and video, and developed some games which interact with robot's body and face.

John Choi (author)IgorF22017-11-20

Hi Igor,

Yes, for now we are only using the phone as an eye display. It is plugged into the USB hub, so it'll keep going without running out of batteries. (P.S. Cool project! Thanks for the link!)


John Choi

rocketsmith (author)John Choi2017-11-22

I'm thinking of this project as a logical progression from the MobBob smartphone robot to an eventually full-sized robot peripheral an intelligent smartphone AI aide could be plugged into to operate, or even operate wirelessly. Eventually we will have the option of buying AI equipped devices like a self-driving car or a robot butler/maid (expensive) or buying cheaper "dumb" devices as accessories for the phone to drive. Aspire seems like a device a few notches beyond MobBob, skipping past things like a servo frame like the Kondo for a phone, 18" to 20" in height, but not quite the size of Inmoov. I'll be sculpting heads (I have no CAD skills yet) for both horizontal and vertical phone mounts to suit differing esthetic tastes, and then possibly building a smartphone scanner to create files to share.

IgorF2 (author)John Choi2017-11-21

Hi John,

Thanks! As a suggestion, you would use the smartphone as a video/audio server as well. I used that in one of my robots, and it works fine.

John Choi (author)IgorF22017-11-21

Intriguing... The WiFi serial receiver on your Arduino is clever. I do suppose one disadvantage of that is that is must have a WiFi internet access wherever it is stationed?

IgorF2 (author)John Choi2017-11-21

Yes. This works only on a local network. All the devices (smarphone, Arduino, and notebook) have to be on the same wi-fi network.

rocketsmith (author)2017-11-22

Non-printed parts are arriving, including the arduino servo shield. Do you have a specific wiring system for the servo leads to work with an existing sketch? I'm using the same servo shield as in the photos.

rocketsmith (author)2017-11-08

I would like to add greater range of motion, ie; head roll, neck flex and wrist articulation- how many servos can be driven by the mega shield board? Does it support the i2c protocol? Also, is there a hole missing in the robot's face for the phone's selfie camera?

John Choi (author)rocketsmith2017-11-08

In theory, the Arduino Mega 2560 can control up to 48 servos simultaneously. I say in theory because in my actual tests thus far, the Arduino Mega begins to glitch out in really strange ways beginning at 24 servos (Yes, Arduino Mega also supports I2C, if that's they way you want to to do it.) I actually wasn't planning to use the phone camera, only the chest camera (You can certainly add a hole on the face if you want ;)). Hope this helps!

BhavaniS8 (author)2017-11-04

Hi sir I am Bhasha, a CS student from India, you did an impressive job, I also want to build it but I have no prior experience of 3D Printing, can I still do it ? do you recommend to me doing it? what's your suggestion?

John Choi (author)BhavaniS82017-11-05

It's going to be really tough, but not impossible ;).

I highly encourage you to to try out a few smaller projects like this one first:

That way, once you get into the ASPIR project, you'll know all about the little details and intricacies of 3D printing.

Hope this helps!
-John C.

Kenstruct (author)2017-11-01

OMG, 80 steps to make John Choi the maker of the year, this is truly awesome!

John Choi (author)Kenstruct2017-11-01

Aww, you are too kind! ;)

rocketsmith (author)2017-11-01

An intriguing design I _will_ be building. Could you list the minimum requirements for the smart phone to use for this project, and the optimum features for future development of the operating system? With the lead-time for printing the parts, we may want to hit the black-Friday sales for bargains on brains. Also, would the Benewake TFMINI Micro Lidar Module IP65 (12m) be an acceptable substitution for the Lidar in the BOM? I can't seem to post the link to ebay here. It is shorter range, but I don't think my bot will be spending much time outside or in large spaces anyway. Thanks for the design!

John Choi (author)rocketsmith2017-11-01

I wish you the best of luck with your build! Although I tried really hard to make the Instructables as detailed as possible, this will still be an arduous journey nonetheless...

The minimum requirements for the phone are that it fits the face (Our phone has a 5in screen). We plan to stick a Windows laptop somewhere with a Kinect V2 attached in the future, so it should be a Windows 8.1/10 machine.

The Benewake might do (I've personally never used it before). The main reason why I stuck the LIDAR sensor on the head is so that it can find people's faces that when it is talking to them. If you don't care too much about the robot's ability to find people's faces, you may be able to get away with removing the sensor entirely.

rocketsmith (author)John Choi2017-11-01

Thanks for the reasoning behind the range finder- of course a polite robot should look at a person it is talking to, but that means a much shorter range is necessary, and so a much cheaper sensor can be used. You do not plan to use actual software facial recognition? Also, if the phone has to fit the face opening and the phone holder, can you make available the cad files for these parts so people can adjust them to fit other phones? I'm thinking of making a more human shaped head with a visor/headset that looks like a VR rig with earphones, and incorporating the phone. Cooling vent "hair" on the back of the head would allow light from a neopixel array to shine out. All in the silver metal finish the R2 builders use on painted domes for a Sorayama-like effect. That's after everything else works... Can you make it possible for builders to use their own images on the phone instead of the eyes in the pics?

John Choi (author)rocketsmith2017-11-01

Hi Rocket Smith,

Thanks for the feedback! I'll probably end up using a mixture of the two (laser + camera facial recognition) to track people and gauge distances (again, everything is really experimental at this stage, so many options are on the table.) I've sent you a PM regarding your request to make a unique head for the robot ;)

Happy building!

-John Choi

rocketsmith (author)2017-11-01

The BOM lists 4 R/C rock-crawler shocks for the robot, but the photos show 6 being used (that I can see, anyway)- There are 2 on each foot and one in each shoulder. If the 4 BOM shocks are used in the feet, what size do we need for the shoulders?

rocketsmith (author)rocketsmith2017-11-01

Whoops! Make that 8 shocks used, 2 more in the chest above the Arduino board- best view is step 70 but also visible in 60 and 61, and some others. Maybe the 90mm shocks are in the chest and shoulders and the foot shocks are smaller?

John Choi (author)rocketsmith2017-11-01

Whoops! You are right, there are 8 shock absorbers. I've edited the Instructable :)

J.E1 (author)2017-10-31

Good job!

You mentioned she is full size; what is the height?

John Choi (author)J.E12017-11-01

The robot stands 4.3 feet tall at full height :)

electricaveman (author)2017-10-29

Excellent work, but the head needs some work, it creeps me out a little haha

John Choi (author)electricaveman2017-10-29

Thanks for the feedback! I'm actually intrigued - what about the head creeps you out a little?

electricaveman (author)John Choi2017-10-30

Well, there is no mouth. That's the only thing that bothers me. This could have to do with the mori uncanny valley type of thing. Still, I must say excellent work and it definitely got my vote.

John Choi (author)electricaveman2017-10-30

Thanks! ASPIR actually does have a mouth, but it is a little hard to see. I'll make more visible on my next iteration ;)

electricaveman (author)John Choi2017-10-30

I saw that after I posted that haha

frarugi87 (author)2017-10-30

First of all, this is impressive... O_O

I just have a couple of questions, because here you showed a list of steps to assemble it, but there are a lot of unanswered mechanical, electrical, electronical and informatics questions (of course you could not write here a massive amount of steps, this instructable is already long on its own) ;)

Mechanics: what are those springs under the shoulder? Why are they needed?

Electric: this robot is a wired one, right? I mean, the power supply comes from the mains. Why did you use two power supplies?

Electronic/informatic: so on the robot you have one arduino and one mobile phone. Are they linked (I mean, the mobile is used for "high level" control and the arduino for the "low level", i.e. the direct control of the servos) or the mobile is only used for displaying the face and the high level control is done through an external PC or something else?

Mechatronic: what are its (or his/her, I don't want to offend if he/she is already sentient) capabilities? Optical recognition through the webcam, interaction, grabbing objects, walking, ...? Did you already program he/she/it or this is "just" the mechanical part (note the "just".. I feel a bit silly by referring to this work with a "just").

And... Thank you for sharing. You really made this look very simple :)

John Choi (author)frarugi872017-10-30

Hi frarugi87,

Here are the responses to your questions:

1. Those are RC shock absorbers. They are needed to support additional weight and lighten the load for the associated servos.

2. Through my previous experiments, each 10A power supply can reliably power 10-12 heavy duty servos. There are 33 servos on the robot total. (A single heavier duty 20A-30A power supply should do the trick as well.)

3. The initial plan was to have a tethered laptop computer that controls both the phone and the Arduino. (Still working on the software for this! :D)

4. She has a webcam, mic, and gyro/accelerometer on the phone in addition to the webcam on the chest. Her hands were designed to be expressive rather than functional, and cannot really grab things well. I haven't coded the walking motion yet, but its a part of the plan. Right now, the Instructable just covers the hardware, as I'm still working on the software.

Hope this helps! :D


John Choi

TURBOTECHNOLOGY (author)2017-10-27

Really Nice work..

Can you post a video of working it???

Eventually - still working on the software bit. I'll post it when its ready ;)

Send me a private message when you upload...

vishnumaiea (author)2017-10-27

Wow! We really need a video of this. It's so cool ;)

John Choi (author)vishnumaiea2017-10-28

Working on it! :D

cap_med (author)2017-10-28

This what i call a very hard work , with some genius poepfle like you sir , future will be so close , and some day Robot will no more so expensive like today ..this was a dream project , i wich some day built some think like this ..wait to see video in action .

John Choi (author)cap_med2017-10-28

Thank you for the feedback! You got it Cap_med, we'll see what we can do ;)

JeremySCook (author)2017-10-27

Wow, nice work! I'd definitely love to see video of it in action.

John Choi (author)JeremySCook2017-10-27

Of course! We'll post an update when the video is ready ;)

Antzy Carmasaic (author)2017-10-26

Just need to connect it wirelessly to a supercomputer running a variant of alphaGo or openAI and we'll be able to reach singularity in no time. Just kidding. :)
Awesome Instructable. Very detailed Instructable and the robot looks great. Looking forward to the video.

Thanks for the feedback! I was planning on sticking it to Google Home's SDK at some point. We'll see how close we get to singularity then...

kksjunior (author)2017-10-26

OMG! That's beautiful! <3 I would love to see that in action! Please post a video soon!

John Choi (author)kksjunior2017-10-27

Will do - I'll post an update when it's ready! ;)

FernandoC25 (author)2017-10-26


John Choi (author)FernandoC252017-10-27

Working on it!

misterxp (author)2017-10-26

This is great! I would love to make it but my wife would divorce me.! P.s. can it cook?

whiskymonster (author)misterxp2017-10-26

I was thinking just about the same! I wonder if they would take a kid as trade for him...

John Choi (author)misterxp2017-10-26

This one can't cook, but one of my earlier designs can:

DaniloB1 (author)2017-10-26

S U P E R !!!!!!

John Choi (author)DaniloB12017-10-26


WiseSageBum (author)2017-10-26

How much did this cost to build?

About This Instructable




Bio: Just a guy that likes building robots and videogames.
More by John Choi:ASPIR: Full-Size 3D-Printed Humanoid RobotPolyurethane Foam Soft RobotMultipurpose Mobile Manipulator MkII
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