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20 Gallon Long Tank
24" Fluorescent Fixture (2)
Black Foam Board
Power Strip
Light Timer
1" Chair End Caps (4 pack) (2)
36" x 14" Wire Shelving Unit
Glass Table Top
100W Heater
20G Internal Filter
Glass Vase Marbles / Beads - 12 oz (10)
2 Prong, 3 Way Power Splitter
10 Gallon Alternate Parts:
23"x14" Shelving unit
10 Gallon Standard Tank
1/2" Chair End Caps
18" Fluorescent Fixtures
50W Heater
10G Filter
Tools Needed:
Mallet
Bolt Cutter
Zip Ties
If you have none of the parts already, I've estimated the costs of the 10 Gallon and 20 Gallon models at $115 and $180 respectively. However, this is where an old glass top coffee table, spare wire shelving or extra aquarium equipment can dramatically reduce the cost. Even if you go out and buy every item you need for the project, note that ready-made coffee table aquariums appear to start at $500 before shipping.
Disclaimer: I'm not an engineer, but the shelving used is rated for more weight than what would be added by a full aquarium of the sizes discussed, so I feel quite safe with the choices made for this project. Do read the packaging on the shelving you buy to ensure your structure will support the approximate 10 lbs / gallon guideline.









































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i definitely have to follow you!!!!!!!!!
how much does this cost altogether
how do you keep the Aquarium attached to the coffee table
BTW, AMAZING INSTRUCTABLE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
5*
The aquarium lies on a frame base which avoids both having to support the massive weight and scaring the fish setting things on the table. I removed the corners where the boards meet on the base to be able to run power under the tank, then back and out up the legs. Also one side is removable so I can get to the electronics later. The coffee table part is pretty much just a shell over the aquarium/base. The lights on the base under the glass substrate really makes this thing. Thank you!
FO
http://picasaweb.google.com/ShinglyElm/FishTankCoffeeTable#
...which you can eyeball spaces and lengths. Its pretty much measure, cut, glue, nail, sand, stain, and seal. If you want a specific measurement of something just message me back. I'll help if I can!
Shingles
Keep in mind that the tank should be well insulated from the frame as, if it is not, every time you place an object on the table, it will sound like a sonic boom to the fish. Similar to tapping the side of the tank with a finger nail.
I still need to buy rubber end stoppers for the ends of the table and the legs are a bit wobbly so I might cement it with epoxy.
The two lovely fish inside are two fantail goldfish which are easy to take care of and beautiful to look at :]
so any help i would be very grateful for. sorry about my spelling
cheers.
Thank you =)
A completely different approach: look for restaurant supply stores in your area, they usually stock a lot of wire shelving components, and some carry used equipment, which would be cheaper.
Best of luck!
Thank you ^_^
-its a bad view to see your fish
-you might disturb them be settin stuff on top of it
As for disturbing the fish while placing a glass or other object on the table, the top glass does not touch the aquarium... it rests on rubber end caps on the tops of the wire shelving posts, which rest on the floor... the bottom shelf, connected to these posts, does support the aquarium's bottom plastic rim, but by the time the vibration from an impact on the top glass would reach the aquarium, it has been dampened very well. This is by design. I've never noticed the fish react when I place something on the table top.
Always good to be mindful about tapping on the water-facing glass of any aquarium, as that does disturb most species; the sound created transmits directly from the glass to the water and can be painfully loud to those in the water.
A couple of suggestions though...
First, an aquarium really needs a LEVEL base! Any imperfections in the shelf will cause a 'rise' or 'hollow' where the tank meets the support, and eventually cause a crack in the (loaded) tank! I'd strongly recommend a piece of styrofoam sheet, thick felt, or foam rubber under the tank to 'absorb' any discrepancies in level-ness. You can probably find clear or translucent padding material to use the tank in the manner the author has done.
Second;
I would strongly suggest against corn syrup - between splashes from the bubbles bursting and sugar "creep" (Like salt does in marine aquariums!) This sounds like an ant/cockroach-attracting mess of biblical proportions! Not to mention the inevitable bacteria bloom! (Think petri dish!)
With a rubber gasket on the aquarium's top rim and the top resting on the rim, (With support from the shelving posts,) Mineral oil should work. A couple of drops per gallon of clove oil should prevent it from turning rancid, and it can be dyed with oil-based universal colourants, or even made into a giant lava lamp using 1/2 oil, 1/2 alcohol with a suitable, (READ SAFE!) heat source!
Just my $0.02...