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Assassin's Creed Hidden Blade - Functional Prop!!

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In this Instructable I will be teaching you how to build a working replica of the Hidden Blade from the Assassin's Creed video game series. Don't be intimidated by the number of steps involved, this is a fun project that should only take you a few days in your workshop and should only cost you around 30 or 40 dollars. 

My Design Goals for this Project:
  • I wanted the Hidden Blade to be functional, (to either extend or retract by moving my hand or wrist).
  • I wanted it to look as nice as possible and as real as possible.
  • I wanted it to be easy to build.
  • I didn't want it to require a lot of special parts or tools.


The process of making the Hidden Blade can be broken down into two main parts:
  • Building the blade mechanism (Steps 2-6)
  • Making the Leather Bracer (Steps 7-13)

Materials:

Hidden Blade Mechanism Materials List:
  • 16” Drawer Slide – This will be what holds the blade and allows it to extend and retract.  You can purchase this from home improvement stores like Lowes or Home Depot for about $6. It is important that you get exact same one that I used otherwise the measurements won't work out properly. examine the included picture for product details.
  • Replica Blade – I used a replica WWII dagger for this. the measurements of the blade are 10.5"long, 3/4" in width at the widest point, and 1/8" in thickness. These measurements, especially the 1/8" thickness, are important because there is not a lot of clearance between the moving parts of the hidden blade so be prepared to do some file work to make things fit. To get the blade, dismantle the dagger and discard the handle, pommel, and cross guard components. The blade I used came very dull with smooth rounded edges, if yours is sharp or pointy I highly advise that you sand away the edges so that they are nice and dull, this will make it safer to use and may keep you out of trouble. Cost $12, purchased at local flea market.
  • Small Coil Spring – This spring will be what retracts the blade when it is extended.  It needs to have very light pull strength and should be 3 to 4 inches in length and approximately 1/4" in diameter.  I purchased mine from Lowes home improvement store as part of a variety pack of springs for around 3 dollars.
  • Flat Spring – This will hold the blade in place when it is extended.  you can make this component out of an hacksaw blade, simply cut off a three inch piece of the blade and grind away the teeth.
  • Assorted small nuts, bolts, and washers – The size of the nuts, bolts, and washers doesn't really matter, anything around 1/8” will do fine.  You’ll just have to drill your holes based on the size of bolts you are using.
  • Small Nails – These will be cut and turned into rivets to attch the blade lock in step 5.
  • Rubber Washer – when the blade retracts it retracts with a lot of force, this will be used to dampen that force i.e. shock absorber. you can purchase rubber washers in various shapes and sizes at hardware stores, you do not need to have the exact one pictured, just something similar.

Leather Bracer Materials List:
  • 2 square feet of 5 or 6 oz. leather – This can be purchased at leather suppliers such as Tandy Leather, however you can also use leather from an old suitcase or coat to cut down on cost.
  • Leather Dye – For coloring and finishing your leather, if you use repurposed leather from an old suitcase or coat you won’t need this.
  • Button Snaps – These can be purchased from retailers such as Tandy Leather or Michaels Crafts.
  • Rapid Rivets – These are used to attach the blade mechanism to the bracer. They can be purchased from Tandy Leather or Michaels Crafts.
  • Ring – Pick something that fits either your middle or ring finger.
  • String/Cord – Pick something strong but light, kite string or the inner strands of paracord work very well.  You’ll need about 1 foot of this.

Tools:
  • Dremel Tool and Metal Cutting Disks – You will use these for cutting and modifying the draw slide parts. If you don't have access to a Dremel, you can also use a metal hacksaw for the cuts.
  • Files and Sand paper – For removing sharp edges left by Dremel cutting disks.
  • Drill and Drill Bits – You can use a hand held drill or a drill press, both work well.
  • Wire Cutters – For cutting your spring to adjust its strength.
  • Screw Drivers – Installing screws.
  • Metal Center Punch - For marking where you are going to drill holes on the drawer slide and blade.
  • Hammer – for peening down rivets.
  • Xacto Knife/Utility Knife – For cutting your Leather.
  • Paper or Poster Board – For creating patterns for your bracer.
  • Leather Working Tool (Beveler) - This tool is used to create the Assassin's Creed symbol and designs on the leather bracer. The one I used is known as a B60 Craftool Beveler Stamp and is available from Tandy Leather for around 8 dollars. 
  • Awl/Drill/Leather Hole Punch – Some way of putting holes in leather.
  • Ruler – Creating patterns.
  • Pencil – Marking patterns on leather.
  • Permanent Marker - For making patterns and cut lines.
  • Safety Glasses - Always wear eye protection when drilling and cutting the metal parts of this project.

Disclaimer:  Please use common sense when making and wearing this prop.  If you have any concerns about the blade material feel free to replace the steel blade with a wooden or acrylic analog.  If you're planning to tackle this project then you most likely already have all the skills necessary to make whatever changes you deem necessary to make this prop suitable for your specific situation and needs. Be safe and be smart!
 
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ARCER5 days ago
Don't sorry
ARCER5 days ago
Don't sorry
ARCER5 days ago
I reckon its awesome but I think if he put just a tiny bit more effort he can make it spring-loaded the other way as well.so instead of going in it comes out because that's closer to the real thing....just do t come and assassinate me...please.
This is it so far just outside slide and ball bearing track
IMG_20150319_201257.jpg
MatamoriJon10 days ago
Will send you photo of slide so you can give me tips BTW.
MatamoriJon10 days ago
Will send you photo of slide so you can give me tips BTW.
MatamoriJon10 days ago
Hi nice hidden blade I have a question

I'm making a HB out of a different drawer slide, and I'm making it 9 inches.
If I'm correct through the image outside slide arms length, ball bearing slide half of that, inner slide half of that and blade arms length. BTW I can't really copy your instruct able because lack of bracket in my type of slide but I'll just improvise.
Also can't find spring any ideas? P.S. live in Asia so no Walmart and stuff like that here.
Can the blade be acrylic analog ? cus metal kinda like dangerous.
pje826815 days ago
Sorry, I didn't make this clear in my last comment. If it hit the watermelon, would the bracer slide sideways or would I break the slide? This is important because I'm wondering if this is a prop (as stated in the title) or if it could be used to cut things like a watermelon (stated in my last comment). If I could get a reply soon that would be great. Thanks!
pje826815 days ago
I'm wondering about the "combat readiness" of this blade before making it myself. Could it slice through, say, a watermelon? That would look really cool in a slo-mo video.
Kapuyah2419 days ago

This thing is amazingly well described and built. I have one concern though as I read through it, once u have the blade and ready to be one with the creed I would have to swing my arm and let gravity do its work. Is that true or can I just flick my wrist and the blade will shoot out like in the game? For example " You are in a tree and suddenly see you're target I try to air assassinate him but before I do that I either A.) swing my arm across and gravity pulls the blade out, or B.)flick my wrist and let the blade come out " Which way would it work?

Matt2 Silver (author)  Kapuyah2419 days ago
It's gravity out and flick to retract. Thanks for your compliments and comment!
JackJ519 days ago

I was thinking the same thing about it being covered but more importantly the spring, because it shows out a lot and if the blade was covered by the leather brace or the spring by some piece of metal I think it would look better but it's my opinion other then that amazing!!!

Also could u give me the link of te exact same model of drawer slides you used? I believe mone is a slightly different model and might not have a bracket. This worries me since im very interested in making this.

I'm not asking why the spring bends out, I'm asking why it STAYS bent out. U mean what force is keeping the blade in? I thought it was the spring's tension keeping the blade in, but if the spring bent, why doesn't it just push the blade back out in order to straighten it out?

peppajack1 month ago
Hey man great Hidden Blade. I just failed my attempt at it how would I buy one from you?
Raptr1171 month ago

Looks awesome! Will definitely be making one in the near future, maybe make it look futuristic. Will add pictures.

-Raptr117

I'm just wondering, do you sell these? If so how much? If not can you send me the pdf for this?

im selling them for fourty bucks if you want one

Hey didn't you hear the man? It's licensed. You're not supposed to sell them and that's damn expensive.

Ghooper181 month ago

Hey what type of drill bit did you use? And did you drill all the way through it the first time, or was it start and stop?

JoelAssassin16 months ago

hi would you make one for 50$? i love this!!! i have searched for this for months!

im actually selling them for forty bucks if you want one

Matt2 Silver (author)  skyrimplaier1 month ago

hi skyrim plaier, I'm not sure what you're offering to sell but this isn't the place to do it. First off, my project is licensed in such a way that you cannot make it to sell, secondly, if you're offering to sell the blade for $40 a pop then you're really ripping people off in a big way, as they can but it online for around $15 shipped.

Pilot2Cool1 month ago

Do you have to hold you arm at a certain angle to get the blade to go in and out or do you simaly have to put to go out and pull to go in.

Matt2 Silver (author)  Pilot2Cool1 month ago

just give your arm a good firm flick to gravity extend the blade, and then pull your wrist back to retract it. (the ammount of "flick" required to extend the blade will be dependant on the tension of the spring you use.)

watchman1071 month ago

Hey, that is super cool! Will make one myself as soon as I have the time, and I have a Dremel to boot), though mine will mirror Altair's hidden blade in the design of his vambrances. Though your idea about using the WWII blade was absolutely brilliant, I'm going to have to use a plastic blade, as we have a concealed carry permit in my state, and this would definitely violate that. Your blade would be more authentic, but I cannot justify what could happen if I used it around other people and something went wrong. Also, I'm a female (yes, there are those of us that like this stuff just as much as you guys do), so I'll have to adjust the measurements to 10 1/2". Easy enough (went to college in architecture). But, just to let you know--yours is the 3rd one I've looked at and by far the nicest and only one where you could both extend and pull the blade back without using gravity.

Matt2 Silver (author)  watchman1071 month ago

Thanks watchman107,

All of you're modifications would be very easy to do and I'm sure you'd have no trouble making a more people/law friend blade for this project. Thanks for your awesome compliments and praise, it's always nice to hear that someone enjoys my work. Best of luck on your build!

There's just one thing I don't fully understand about the blade mechanism: The spring. When the blade is retracted, why does the blade bend outward instead of simply using it's force to straighten itself outward?

Matt2 Silver (author)  geneticcheatah.1 month ago

I think you're asking why the spring bends outward right? it's simply because there isn't enough room for the coil spring to sit in a straight line. A coil spring that is short enough to sit in a straight line when the blade is retracted would not have enough travel to extend without being deformed when the blade is deployed.

There's just one thing I don't fully understand about the blade mechanism: The spring. When the blade is retracted, why does the blade bend outward instead of simply using it's force to straighten itself outward?

The sell??
The sell??
Hey I really like the blade. Give me link to buy? :s
nichg4 months ago

can you be more clear on attaching the blade to the slider and can i make the sliding rail shorter i'm younger and dont have as long arms

i have actually made an 9in. style where everything is smaller and slightly different but still operational

Hey I'm really interested in this project, could you please give me a link to the WWII dagger you're using? I have OCD with projects such as this, and I want everything to be just perfect. Would you please give me the link to the dagger you buy? My email is geneticcheatah@gmail.com

Spot1321 month ago
Hi. This is fantastic. But i still cant find this blade. I dont think i can find. Any help. Or can i make this with wood. Is it going to work. My gmail is stivenkerthi@gmail.com
JakeS62 months ago

Could you give a little more information on what kind of rapid rivets you used? Like, what is the length, cap, and base? Tandy Leather sells four sizes,

X-Small: length 3/16", cap 1/4", base 1/4".

Small: length 1/4", cap 1/4", base 1/4".

Medium: length 3/8", cap 3/8", base 5/16".
Large: length 1/2", 3/8" cap, base 3/8".

An answer would be greatly appreciated!

khoalaboi2 months ago

can someone send me the download link and pdf please? I would very much appreciate the AC fans out there, thank you!

my email is seekwah1@yahoo.com

skyrimplaier2 months ago

if you could be so kind and send me some measurements of the whole thing if you made the first slide 8 inches instead of ll.5

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