Assassin's Creed Hidden Blade - Functional Prop!!

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In this Instructable I will be teaching you how to build a working replica of the Hidden Blade from the Assassin's Creed video game series. Don't be intimidated by the number of steps involved, this is a fun project that should only take you a few days in your workshop and should only cost you around 30 or 40 dollars. 

My Design Goals for this Project:
  • I wanted the Hidden Blade to be functional, (to either extend or retract by moving my hand or wrist).
  • I wanted it to look as nice as possible and as real as possible.
  • I wanted it to be easy to build.
  • I didn't want it to require a lot of special parts or tools.

The process of making the Hidden Blade can be broken down into two main parts:
  • Building the blade mechanism (Steps 2-6)
  • Making the Leather Bracer (Steps 7-13)


Hidden Blade Mechanism Materials List:
  • 16” Drawer Slide – This will be what holds the blade and allows it to extend and retract.  You can purchase this from home improvement stores like Lowes or Home Depot for about $6. It is important that you get exact same one that I used otherwise the measurements won't work out properly. examine the included picture for product details.
  • Replica Blade – I used a replica WWII dagger for this. the measurements of the blade are 10.5"long, 3/4" in width at the widest point, and 1/8" in thickness. These measurements, especially the 1/8" thickness, are important because there is not a lot of clearance between the moving parts of the hidden blade so be prepared to do some file work to make things fit. To get the blade, dismantle the dagger and discard the handle, pommel, and cross guard components. The blade I used came very dull with smooth rounded edges, if yours is sharp or pointy I highly advise that you sand away the edges so that they are nice and dull, this will make it safer to use and may keep you out of trouble. Cost $12, purchased at local flea market.
  • Small Coil Spring – This spring will be what retracts the blade when it is extended.  It needs to have very light pull strength and should be 3 to 4 inches in length and approximately 1/4" in diameter.  I purchased mine from Lowes home improvement store as part of a variety pack of springs for around 3 dollars.
  • Flat Spring – This will hold the blade in place when it is extended.  you can make this component out of an hacksaw blade, simply cut off a three inch piece of the blade and grind away the teeth.
  • Assorted small nuts, bolts, and washers – The size of the nuts, bolts, and washers doesn't really matter, anything around 1/8” will do fine.  You’ll just have to drill your holes based on the size of bolts you are using.
  • Small Nails – These will be cut and turned into rivets to attch the blade lock in step 5.
  • Rubber Washer – when the blade retracts it retracts with a lot of force, this will be used to dampen that force i.e. shock absorber. you can purchase rubber washers in various shapes and sizes at hardware stores, you do not need to have the exact one pictured, just something similar.

Leather Bracer Materials List:
  • 2 square feet of 5 or 6 oz. leather – This can be purchased at leather suppliers such as Tandy Leather, however you can also use leather from an old suitcase or coat to cut down on cost.
  • Leather Dye – For coloring and finishing your leather, if you use repurposed leather from an old suitcase or coat you won’t need this.
  • Button Snaps – These can be purchased from retailers such as Tandy Leather or Michaels Crafts.
  • Rapid Rivets – These are used to attach the blade mechanism to the bracer. They can be purchased from Tandy Leather or Michaels Crafts.
  • Ring – Pick something that fits either your middle or ring finger.
  • String/Cord – Pick something strong but light, kite string or the inner strands of paracord work very well.  You’ll need about 1 foot of this.

  • Dremel Tool and Metal Cutting Disks – You will use these for cutting and modifying the draw slide parts. If you don't have access to a Dremel, you can also use a metal hacksaw for the cuts.
  • Files and Sand paper – For removing sharp edges left by Dremel cutting disks.
  • Drill and Drill Bits – You can use a hand held drill or a drill press, both work well.
  • Wire Cutters – For cutting your spring to adjust its strength.
  • Screw Drivers – Installing screws.
  • Metal Center Punch - For marking where you are going to drill holes on the drawer slide and blade.
  • Hammer – for peening down rivets.
  • Xacto Knife/Utility Knife – For cutting your Leather.
  • Paper or Poster Board – For creating patterns for your bracer.
  • Leather Working Tool (Beveler) - This tool is used to create the Assassin's Creed symbol and designs on the leather bracer. The one I used is known as a B60 Craftool Beveler Stamp and is available from Tandy Leather for around 8 dollars. 
  • Awl/Drill/Leather Hole Punch – Some way of putting holes in leather.
  • Ruler – Creating patterns.
  • Pencil – Marking patterns on leather.
  • Permanent Marker - For making patterns and cut lines.
  • Safety Glasses - Always wear eye protection when drilling and cutting the metal parts of this project.

Disclaimer:  Please use common sense when making and wearing this prop.  If you have any concerns about the blade material feel free to replace the steel blade with a wooden or acrylic analog.  If you're planning to tackle this project then you most likely already have all the skills necessary to make whatever changes you deem necessary to make this prop suitable for your specific situation and needs. Be safe and be smart!
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LarryM12 days ago

If I may, I would like to see the PDF files for this instractable as I would not like to pay to be able to see them. I am in the progress in making a AC4 cosplay costume, and all I need to know is the hidden blades. I do not want to waste my money on a toy object that could break in less than a few uses; I would like to make something durable that is worth my money to be spent. Thank you for reading this, just send me the files if able to me. Again, Thank you.

I've been assembling my prop but find when I fit the blade into the bearing section, the assembly no longer slides easily. Is there any way around this?

JustinP56 days ago

what kind of leather did you use?

What kind of dagger did you use

Bvbbuh9 days ago
Awesome you can just run around slicing stuff but not people be careful kiddies
jamiepittas13 days ago

Hey Matt, please could I buy one of these from you for $100? As I do not have the tools to make myself.

Can you post clear and close up pictures of the blade itself? Not the mechanism. The guy who I might commission to make the blade is asking for more pictures. Thanks.

My main problem now is trying to find the right blade. Do you know what the dagger you used is called? I'm thinking of getting the blade custom made, but I'm not sure about the prices.

Velvetkey18 days ago

So, looking at this...what's to keep the flat spring from wearing a groove all the way down the length of the blade until the recess? It looks like every time the blade is deployed, the flat spring would scratch that one side of the blade...?

Matt2 Silver (author)  Velvetkey18 days ago
It's true that the flat spring does ride against the underside of the blade but considering that both the blade and the spring are hardened steel you will never have a problem with the two wearing grooves into each other (maybe after thousands of blade deployments but realistically it shouldn't be an issue.)
manolisk21 days ago

Hi, is this fully functional? I mean do you flick your wrist and the blade pops out or do you have to push a button or something? I watched the video but I only saw the blade being retracted by the flick of the wrist...

Ghooper1822 days ago

would you make me two of them for me name ur price i will pay for it or do u have a lead on where to get the blades.

Ghooper1822 days ago

would you make me two of them for me name ur price i will pay for it or do u have a lead on where to get the blades.

BrenBrix26 days ago

Hi Matt,

I'm wondering where you found the leather you used. You mentioned tandy leather, but most of their stuff is woefully expensive. Also, since I don't know much about leather, I'm not sure what to look for other than "5 or 6 oz" leather.

Awesome prop by the way! Super cool.


Matt2 Silver (author)  BrenBrix26 days ago
Helol Brennan,

Finding leather inexpensively can be a little tricky. I suggest you check out local tailors or local saddle shops (custom leather goods shops). all you need for this project is a small piece which would probably be a scrap piece for most professional leather workers, so you might be able to pick it up inexpensively from one of these sources. As for the leather you looking for something 5 or 6 ounces and you what vegetable tanned leather as it's easier to dye.

Hey Matt why aren't you replying to my PM?

hi would you make one for 50$? i love this!!! i have searched for this for months!

I've been having trouble drilling holes in the replica blades. Is there any kind of drill bit or technique you specifically recommend? I originally started with a regular blade I cut from one of those Japanese cane swords, but it took be two hours to make a dent and I've had roughly the same problem with the replica.

Matt2 Silver (author)  Jacob.R.Summers1 month ago
Hello jake. There is a trick you can use. Your blade is probably tempered. What you have to do is remove the temper to soften the mrtal. To do that head the metal up to cherry red where you want to drill the holes and then allow it to cool VERY slowly. This is called annealing. Pro tip, you can wrap the cutting end of the blade in a damp cloth to stop heat from moving up and ruining the temper so that your cutting edge stays strong. You can also slow down the speed of your drill and use a lot of 3 in one oil to keep the bit cool and lubricated. Hope this helps. Let me know how it goes for you.

I collect swords/knives of all different kinds, but this really caught my eye. Ever since Assassin's Creed came out, I wanted a hidden blade, but none of the designs I saw elsewhere looked anywhere near as good as this. Would you consider making one for me? I am willing to pay $150 USD.

robert_101 month ago

could the hidden blade be covered by the leather brace

If you buy extra leather, you can connect a second leather flap around the outer portion of the blade receiver using rivets placed just below the upper quicksnaps. You would have to bear in mind that this would make any repairs or fine tuning on the mechanism more difficult and also make the entire piece slightly more bulky (though, as it would just be a cover, you could use much thinner leather or canvas material).

Newdals1 month ago

I am a collector of pieces such as this, I'm a Huge fan of Gaming, I have the Lich Kings sword, the Zelda Sword so on and so forth. Would you perhaps consider making one of these and selling it to me? I'm willing to pay you about $150 In american money of course. I understand you cant sell it branded as a ASSASSINS CREED replica blade due to trademark issues but we can call it Matt's Retractable blade

Matt2 Silver (author)  Newdals1 month ago
Hello Newdals,

I would be happy to put a blade together for you. It would take me some time to get the parts pulled together but I could have it done in 2-3 weeks. I'll need some measurements for your forearm and wrist so that I can custom build it to your specs. as for the price, 150 usd sounds reasonable, I have sold a few others for right around that mark. send me your info and I'll get to work.
Gonlaren made it!1 month ago

Hello again,

I was able to recreate your hidden blade mechanism to some degree, I'm working on a second go before I make the bracer but as I'm gathering the materials again I have a few questions. How does the blade assembly stay in the bearing track?

I had some hiccups along the way in recreating mine and I wanted to make sure I understood this portion clearly before trying again, in mine I ended up having to manually attach the bearing track to the assembly. Mine is functional and I've had a lot of fun with it I just think it will have a longer life if I am able to recreate mine close to yours.... also I had to use a different blade. That might have also caused some issues. I tried to stay as close as possible to your measurements but it was unclear if the blade length was with or without being trimmed down as in your pictures.

The sites below that have copies of the blade you have used seem to no longer have it. If you have come across any others I would very much like to know.

Anyway, thanks for the design. Hope to hear back soon.

Matt2 Silver (author)  Gonlaren1 month ago

Hello Gonlaren,

First off let me say that your hidden blade looks great! A lot of people have been trying to tackle this project and your the first person who has shared a picture, so thank you for that. As for your questions, I'll try my best to explain how mine worked. So for my version of the blade, I mounted the blade directly onto the inside slide via 2 countersunk screws as shown in step 3. Once the blade was mounted to the inside slide the modified bearing track was loaded into the outside slide and then the inside slide was mounted into the bearing track, (so the blade and inside slide assembly is not connected to the bearing track but instead it just rides inside it similar to how the slide would function if it were used on a drawer. as for the question about blade length, I didn't take an exact measurement when I made my hidden blade, but I know that I cut it to roughly an inch shorter than the length that I cut the outside slide to. I hope that helps, If you have any questions, please feel free to post here or PM me and I'll help you out as best I can.

Best Regards,


This actually helps a lot. I think I'll start on 2.0 and then tackle the bracer.


HunterG2 months ago

would it be fine if the blade was 1 to 1.1 inches wide ?

Matt2 Silver (author)  HunterG1 month ago

I think that would be okay, you would have to narrow the section that installs into the inner drawer slide, but otherwise the 1" width wouldn't cause to many issues.

How much is the overall cost?

Matt2 Silver (author)  Duplicateyeti861 month ago

it's been a while since I purchased everything for this build but I would figure that the blade mechanism was roughly 30 dollars and the bracer was probably 10 to 15 dollars.

kxsargeantx4 months ago

hey, just a quick question, do you think that this technique could be used for a wolverine co splay?

watch the Abonude in YouTube he made one.

yes. I would recommend snaps to mount the claws, so they could be detachable.

nmckinley3 months ago
Hi, how does the blade engage? My buddy and myself want to make one but haven't figured that part out yet.
You make thrust with your arm, then the coil spring allows it to release,yet coil springs are made to retract.
Dakota Joel982 months ago


How did you get your bracer to have that 'bumpy' texture did you do something to it or has it just lone like that naturally

Good question Ezio (great name by the way). The texture was actually created with the blunt handle end of a butter knife. I moistened the leather to make it accepting of the tool marks, and then I used a rapid jack hammer motion to repeated stamp the rounded end of the handle into the leather creating the texture. anything with a nice smooth rounded end would work to create the texture, even something like the end of a pen would probably work. Hope that helps!
MightisWhale3 months ago

Is it possible to not have the shock absorber? I noticed while building that the back of the mechanism is a bit long and run past the elbow. Without the shock absorber it might fit? Thanks in advance!

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