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Assassin's Creed Hidden Blade - Functional Prop!!

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In this Instructable I will be teaching you how to build a working replica of the Hidden Blade from the Assassin's Creed video game series. Don't be intimidated by the number of steps involved, this is a fun project that should only take you a few days in your workshop and should only cost you around 30 or 40 dollars. 

My Design Goals for this Project:
  • I wanted the Hidden Blade to be functional, (to either extend or retract by moving my hand or wrist).
  • I wanted it to look as nice as possible and as real as possible.
  • I wanted it to be easy to build.
  • I didn't want it to require a lot of special parts or tools.


The process of making the Hidden Blade can be broken down into two main parts:
  • Building the blade mechanism (Steps 2-6)
  • Making the Leather Bracer (Steps 7-13)

Materials:

Hidden Blade Mechanism Materials List:
  • 16” Drawer Slide – This will be what holds the blade and allows it to extend and retract.  You can purchase this from home improvement stores like Lowes or Home Depot for about $6. It is important that you get exact same one that I used otherwise the measurements won't work out properly. examine the included picture for product details.
  • Replica Blade – I used a replica WWII dagger for this. the measurements of the blade are 10.5"long, 3/4" in width at the widest point, and 1/8" in thickness. These measurements, especially the 1/8" thickness, are important because there is not a lot of clearance between the moving parts of the hidden blade so be prepared to do some file work to make things fit. To get the blade, dismantle the dagger and discard the handle, pommel, and cross guard components. The blade I used came very dull with smooth rounded edges, if yours is sharp or pointy I highly advise that you sand away the edges so that they are nice and dull, this will make it safer to use and may keep you out of trouble. Cost $12, purchased at local flea market.
  • Small Coil Spring – This spring will be what retracts the blade when it is extended.  It needs to have very light pull strength and should be 3 to 4 inches in length and approximately 1/4" in diameter.  I purchased mine from Lowes home improvement store as part of a variety pack of springs for around 3 dollars.
  • Flat Spring – This will hold the blade in place when it is extended.  you can make this component out of an hacksaw blade, simply cut off a three inch piece of the blade and grind away the teeth.
  • Assorted small nuts, bolts, and washers – The size of the nuts, bolts, and washers doesn't really matter, anything around 1/8” will do fine.  You’ll just have to drill your holes based on the size of bolts you are using.
  • Small Nails – These will be cut and turned into rivets to attch the blade lock in step 5.
  • Rubber Washer – when the blade retracts it retracts with a lot of force, this will be used to dampen that force i.e. shock absorber. you can purchase rubber washers in various shapes and sizes at hardware stores, you do not need to have the exact one pictured, just something similar.

Leather Bracer Materials List:
  • 2 square feet of 5 or 6 oz. leather – This can be purchased at leather suppliers such as Tandy Leather, however you can also use leather from an old suitcase or coat to cut down on cost.
  • Leather Dye – For coloring and finishing your leather, if you use repurposed leather from an old suitcase or coat you won’t need this.
  • Button Snaps – These can be purchased from retailers such as Tandy Leather or Michaels Crafts.
  • Rapid Rivets – These are used to attach the blade mechanism to the bracer. They can be purchased from Tandy Leather or Michaels Crafts.
  • Ring – Pick something that fits either your middle or ring finger.
  • String/Cord – Pick something strong but light, kite string or the inner strands of paracord work very well.  You’ll need about 1 foot of this.

Tools:
  • Dremel Tool and Metal Cutting Disks – You will use these for cutting and modifying the draw slide parts. If you don't have access to a Dremel, you can also use a metal hacksaw for the cuts.
  • Files and Sand paper – For removing sharp edges left by Dremel cutting disks.
  • Drill and Drill Bits – You can use a hand held drill or a drill press, both work well.
  • Wire Cutters – For cutting your spring to adjust its strength.
  • Screw Drivers – Installing screws.
  • Metal Center Punch - For marking where you are going to drill holes on the drawer slide and blade.
  • Hammer – for peening down rivets.
  • Xacto Knife/Utility Knife – For cutting your Leather.
  • Paper or Poster Board – For creating patterns for your bracer.
  • Leather Working Tool (Beveler) - This tool is used to create the Assassin's Creed symbol and designs on the leather bracer. The one I used is known as a B60 Craftool Beveler Stamp and is available from Tandy Leather for around 8 dollars. 
  • Awl/Drill/Leather Hole Punch – Some way of putting holes in leather.
  • Ruler – Creating patterns.
  • Pencil – Marking patterns on leather.
  • Permanent Marker - For making patterns and cut lines.
  • Safety Glasses - Always wear eye protection when drilling and cutting the metal parts of this project.

Disclaimer:  Please use common sense when making and wearing this prop.  If you have any concerns about the blade material feel free to replace the steel blade with a wooden or acrylic analog.  If you're planning to tackle this project then you most likely already have all the skills necessary to make whatever changes you deem necessary to make this prop suitable for your specific situation and needs. Be safe and be smart!
 
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Dakota Joel9817 hours ago

AWESOME!!!!!

How did you get your bracer to have that 'bumpy' texture did you do something to it or has it just lone like that naturally

Good question Ezio (great name by the way). The texture was actually created with the blunt handle end of a butter knife. I moistened the leather to make it accepting of the tool marks, and then I used a rapid jack hammer motion to repeated stamp the rounded end of the handle into the leather creating the texture. anything with a nice smooth rounded end would work to create the texture, even something like the end of a pen would probably work. Hope that helps!

Is it possible to not have the shock absorber? I noticed while building that the back of the mechanism is a bit long and run past the elbow. Without the shock absorber it might fit? Thanks in advance!

nmckinley23 days ago
Hi, how does the blade engage? My buddy and myself want to make one but haven't figured that part out yet.

Dude I am very much inspired with ur instructable. I wanted to make a laser glove but I am making this first ( i am a fan of AC ). I am a 17 year kid and my wrist ain't so big. So can you suggest me the slider size and the blade sizes. I really love ur make.

Gonlaren1 month ago

Hello,

I must say this is the best hidden blade I have found online. I would love to know if you would be willing to sell one?

Thank you!

kxsargeantx1 month ago

hey, just a quick question, do you think that this technique could be used for a wolverine co splay?

yes. I would recommend snaps to mount the claws, so they could be detachable.

Templar831 month ago

How did you grind off the hacksaw teeth? Will a belt grinder suffice?

I have found most, if not all the components to make this spectacular blade. The only thing is that I am reluctant to use an actual metal piece (even if only a replica) to use as a blade simply because I am planning on using it as part of a convention costume. Do you think a dense, heavy wood could be substituted in it's place? I have some decently sized pieces of oak, purpleheart, and rosewood I could use if they could withstand the force.

This is the first instructable that I am actually gathering needed items for. I'm a BIG AC fan, and seeing this made so simply has me all giddy with excitement! :)

Matt2 Silver (author)  DraconicPinions1 month ago

Hi DraconicPinions,

Sorry for the delay, I'm in the process of moving and my life is a bit hectic at the moment. I completely understand your hesitation about the metal blade and I'm happy to report that a wooden replica will work perfectly ( I have actually made a wooden replica for my hidden blade for the very reasons you stated.

I'm really excited that you are going to attempt the build! please share pictures by posting them to the comments section here when you are done!

Can the blade be plastic? and will this be cheaper than buying a liscensed replica?

I have the bracer completely finished so far. The problem I am running into now is that the assembly will be too long for my forearms and that the steel is pretty difficult to cut through with a hacksaw. I am shortening both the bearings rail and the longer piece for comfort purposes. :)

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nleung41 month ago

Do you sell any? I dont have the time or tools to build one unfortunately

Can you climb walls with that thing?

Matt2 Silver (author)  TugaUcraniano1 month ago
I don't see why not, the string that connects the locking mechanism to the ring is fairly long and can be adjusted so that it takes a significant upright movement of the wrist to active the lock, or for the it to get in the way of the hand motions that would be necessary for an activity like climbing.
lwindragger1 month ago

someone who could send me the pdf file?

MightisWhale2 months ago

Did your blade come with those designs, or did you put the design in yourself?

Templar832 months ago
Thank you so much for the advice. I have started with 300 grit sandpaper, because my drawer slide was already fairly shiny. Also the circumference around my wrists is a little under 7.5 inches.

I want to make a set of these for a custom Ezio costume to take my daughter trick or treating in. I cannot find the blades anywhere. Could someone please help me out on this?

Matt2 Silver (author)  JohnHoskinsonII3 months ago

Hi John HoskinsonII,

I did a bit of Googling this morning and came up with these two sites. Both sell the exact dagger I used for this build and both places are fairly reasonable in terms of price (roughly $10 per dagger, I didn't check shipping though). Best of luck with this project, make sure you post some pictures of your finished hidden blades when you're done!

http://www.wildbillwholesale.com/gewowariired.html

http://www.extremely-sharp.com/world-war-ii-german...

Best Regards,

Matt

Wow, in the "customers that bought this also bought" section, all it shows are Swastikas on flags. Still, nice dagger.

Matt2 Silver (author)  Templar832 months ago

ha yea, the blades are great looking but the nazi influences in their design and associated content are a bit of a downer.

JacksAtack2 months ago
Your work is amazing thank you so much
Matt2 Silver (author)  JacksAtack2 months ago

My pleasure JacksAtack, thanks for your kind words!

Templar832 months ago

Hello, I made my own hidden blade following a Youtuber named PropsWhizzard, and he made one with a detachable and swiveling blade, like Connor's from AC3. It worked quite well, but it is hard to strap to your arm. I am trying to make the vambrace, but can't find the right size of leather. Will 1 square foot of leather work? Also, I think you are an amazing craftsperson, and I really liked the blade.

Matt2 Silver (author)  Templar832 months ago

Hi Templar83,

It's hard for me to judge how much leather you will need as I don't know how big your arms are. For me personally I would need more than that as I have bigger forearms, the best way to know is to take a measurement and then move forward from there. Additionally, you could also redesign the bracer so that it laces up instead of the snap system I used, this would mean that you would only need the one large section of leather for the bracer and not the smaller section for the snap closure which would make it easier for your to get the bracer out of 1 square foot of leather.

P.S. Thanks for your kind words, I work hard on my projects and it is great when nice people such as yourself appreciate the time and effort I put in : ).

Make sure to post a picture of your work as I would enjoy seeing the finished project!

Templar832 months ago

also, I had to make my own blade out of a piece of steel. I am having some time getting it shiny, as well as etching a pattern into it. I could really use some advice. Also, I do not have a Dremel, and had to use a hacksaw.

Matt2 Silver (author)  Templar832 months ago

I can help you with those issues templar83, first lets address the shininess issue. To make the blade you created shiny you have to sand it using continually finer grits of sand paper eventually finishing off with a polishing wheel and rouge buffing compound. You want to start the sanding process with something like 220 grit and move up through the grits until you reach 600 or 800 grit. Next you want to charge a buffing wheel with rouge polish and thoroughly polish the blade, be careful of your fingers while doing this, and make sure the blade is not sharp as the buffing wheel can quickly grab the piece potentially damaging you or your hand. tip, when sanding through the grits sand in different directions each time you move up a grit, this will allow your to see the marks from the previous grit easier, also don't move up a grit until all the scratches from the previous grit have been removed.

As for the etching, a very simple technique is to use something like finger nail polish as a resist and simple white vinegar as your etching acid. The nail polish will keep the acid from making contact with the steel underneath it which will keep all those areas you just worked so hard to sand looking nice, and the exposed still will be what is etched. tip heating the vinegar will accelerate the etching process. tip number 2, the longer you leave the blade in the acid the deeper the etch.

Hope that helps, if you have any other questions please feel free to ask.

ultimatshadow2 months ago

Hey, Matt. I have a very quick question, I decide on making one, and there's a small problem I ran into: What is the type/brand/ of the drawer slide that you have?

Matt2 Silver (author)  ultimatshadow2 months ago

Hello ultimatshadow,

The drawer slide I used was a 16" center drawer slide from the manufacturer Richelieu. Lowes sells them for about 6 dollars and I think Home Depot sells something very similar, although the manufacturer might be different. Check out the extra pictures on the first step, I included some pictures of the draw slight packaging there to help people such as yourself to find the right one for this build. Best regards and I hope you post a finished picture when you're done with the build!

Okay, thank you so much!

I have one more question Matt. I noticed that the coil spring has slack in it when the blade is "sheathed". When your arm is down, does the blade slide down any?

Matt2 Silver (author)  JohnHoskinsonII2 months ago

Hi John,

That's a great question, the blade actually stays up despite the slack in the coil spring because the bar spring that holds the blade in place when extended has a slight curve bent in it. The blade may slide down slightly but it won't slide pas the bar spring until you pull you hand back to pull the bar spring out of the way. I hope that makes sense : ). Also, for your leather question, finding leather cheap can be tricky, Tandy Leather is a great place to look as they have stores all over the country and sell online, however they can be a bit pricey. What I would do would be to look for a custom leather working shop in your area (someone who makes saddles, or furniture or something like that.) Often times they will have scraps that are big enough for a project like the hidden blade and they will be happy to sell them to you at a fraction of the price a retailer like Tandy would want. Hope that helps, if you have any more questions feel free to ask!

Also, do you know of a cheap place to get leather?

nikolojedison6 months ago

Question: What are the dimensions of your blade? I'm planning on making this but w/ a wood or plastic blade. Other than that, sweet build!

Matt2 Silver (author)  nikolojedison6 months ago

Hello nikolojedison.

The blade dimensions are:

10.5 inches in length

3/4 of an inch in width at the widest part of the blade

1/8 of an inch in thickness

The 1/8" thickness is very important as there isn't a lot of clearance between the moving parts of the drawer slide. Good luck on your build please post pictures as I would enjoy seeing your finished project.

I finally got around to starting, I'm going to use some plastic cutting boards from Ikea as material for the blade. I'll post a full Ible once I'm done.

ewells43 months ago
Is there another store to find a coil spring about the size you used I tried lowes and Home Depot? thanks
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