The BOOGIE BOX is an interactive reprogrammable thing that can make almost anything dance and is fun to play with! You can build your own dancers and choreograph them to dance to your favourite tunes. You can create anything! Just add the magnetic feet and the possibilities are limitless.

Fancy building one? Stick around and read this instructables to the end! I have made sure all steps are well documented and easy to follow and reproduce!

Step 1: Electromagnetism Explained

Wonder how it works?

The basic principle that makes the Bogie Box an interactive dance floor is the grid of coils underneath its surface. There are 4 rows of 5 coils all individually actuated by an Arduino. It runs on 12V DC so it is a safe machine to play with.

Watch this video where I test the system while it is being built:

Principle of Electromagnetism

A coil that we run current through turns into a magnet. Now, if we wind a lot of wire on an iron core and put current through it, the magnet will be stronger because the iron core is a good conductor for the magnetic flux.

If we now put a permanent magnet next to the coil we will notice that the two magnets interact with each other. Based on this simple principle of electromagnetics I have built the Boogie Box by arranging lots of electromagnets in a grid. Then all we need is a permanent magnet which we can make move in any direction alongside the grid.

<p>What r the demensions for the wood platforms, why u no list them or make a pdf? I can't afford to use or rent a lazer cutter. :/</p>
<p>how to buy it.<br>i want to buy it for my son.</p>
<p>Hi Zack, please drop me a personal message about this :)</p>
<p>I already send</p>
<p>here's a silly question:</p><p>i only now realised that, if you use magnets on the dancer's feet, aren't they already being drawn to the bolts on the eletromagnets?</p>
<p>Hi, Yes, the magnets stick to the bolt ends but when you apply current the force is much stronger so the dancer's legs move.</p>
<p>I didn't get the part where you wire the electromagnets: you put 20cm of wire around the nail, then more 18 layers of wire around the 3d printed part?</p>
<p>Oh, wait! Sorry hahah you used the nail only to hold the 3d printed part in place, right? The electromagnet is made by winding the wire around the reels. Do you know how many cm goes into those 18 layers?</p>
<p>That's right - the nail holds the 3D printed part. You grab the nail on the drill chuck and then turn the 3D printed part. And about the length of wire used - no idea really. I think for the whole project the 0.5 kg farnell reel was just enough (order code from Farnell 1230975).</p>
<p>Do you think it's possible for me to use the l239d for the h-bridge? I'm having trouble to find the ic you used around here..</p>
<p>Hi, yes I think it should work just fine :)</p>
<p>Even with the output current being 600mA per channel? <a href="http://pdf.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheet/texasinstruments/l293d.pdf" rel="nofollow">http://pdf.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheet/texasins...</a></p><p>That's just really the only one I've found for sale around here. The L239 has an output current of 1A but I can't find it. </p>
<p>Huh, I'd guess a lot, a meter or more (I live in america so I'm stuck with the stupid us continental form of measurement :P ; I really don't know).</p>
<p>I can't find the same capacitors you used, I think I found it here*, but it doesn't look like yours. Thank you for all your help, this is a really cool project!</p><p>*http://www.newark.com/panasonic-electronic-components/eee-1har47sr/aluminum-electrolytic-capacitor/dp/96K9434?ost=0.47+uF&amp;selectedCategoryId=&amp;categoryId=800000005279</p>
<p>I think he wrote .47uF on the materials list but actually used 68uF, see step 9</p>
<p>oh thanks! got it all ordered!</p>
<p>Could I use a breadboard instead of a circut board? I don't really have much cash. Thanks!</p>
Sure, you can! Be warned though that coils might draw up to an ampere or two so it may overheat because of bad breadboard connections.
<p>I have a Raspberry Pi Zero, not an Arduino, will the program still work? Is there a way I can edit the format?</p>
I haven't had a go with it but I imagine if you tweak the code it would work. Let me know if you have more specific questions once you start going. Make sure there are enough digital/analogue I/O pins to be able to power up all the coils. 1 per coil is what you need if you don't use some external driver IC. :)
would there be enough pins leftover on the uno to add and Arduino touch pad or joystick to control the dancer?
<p>Hi AbeV. The Uno does not have spare pins, but a Mega will!</p>
<p>Hi great job, I tried to download the file for the origami wood top and mid but it just comes up as garbled text the other one worked fine. Thanks Tim</p>
<p>Congrats!</p><p>Ever since seeing the original one where folks used origami figures to do this I thought that this would both make a killer 'ible and be an otherwise fun thing to make. :)</p>
<p>Thank you! :)</p>
<p>I would love to put an LED color organ in the side or dance floor. (Sorry if you already mentioned that!) Great Job!!!</p>
<p>Sounds interesting but I have no idea what a LED color organ is. What is it?</p>
<p>A circuit listens to music and makes LEDs respond to it. Usually by dividing the music into high-tones, mid-tones and low-tones. Kind of like a VU Meter. Heres how to make one:</p><p>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ubQC839Pvqk</p>
<p>Thanks for sharing! That will go in v2 of the Boogie Box!</p>
<p>That's quite an ingenious project! Very cool!</p>
<p>I love it! I might make one for my sisters birthday. So cool.</p>
<p>Thanks FredO2, I'll be happy to help if you have questions along the way!</p>
<p>This is a ridiculous question, but I have read this instructable twice and I don't understand how your control system synchronizes the dancing to the beat of the music playing. Can you explain that part -- and imagine I'm extremely stupid. :-)</p>
<p>Hi TheFtankTurk,</p><br style="font-family: Arial , Helvetica , sans-serif;font-size: 16.0px;line-height: 20.8px;">Thanks for the question (there are no ridiculous questns)!<br style="font-family: Arial , Helvetica , sans-serif;font-size: 16.0px;line-height: 20.8px;"><br style="font-family: Arial , Helvetica , sans-serif;font-size: 16.0px;line-height: 20.8px;">To ur question: Please take a look at step 28 where I explain the programming bit. Basically the Arduino is in the heart of making the dancers move. I have written functions that move a magnet from a position forwars/sideways/backward and by mixing those functions and some delays between them I can create a choreography to my own taste. I could revise this step if it seems unclear.
<p>Thanks for that - I did see step 28. What I understand there is that you are programming movements based on the program's timing, not an external cue. What I am looking for is a way to make the program &quot;listen&quot; to a mic and advance to the next dance move based on the music it &quot;hears&quot;. Your video is obviously timed to the music you played in the video. I'm curious as to whether you are a clever editor or if your program is detecting beats in the music to make the puppets dance?</p>
<p>Yes, you are totally correct. The movements are timed by the Arduino and it does not &quot;listen&quot; to the music but just executes my commands. These features will be targeted in v.2 of the Boogie Box as while programming it I saw that it will be more entertaining to automate the dancers. I also plan to integrate RGB LEDs maybe individual per every coil because it will be more interesting to watch. For this I need to replace the Arduino Uno with a Mega or Due as currently there are no free I/Os to use.</p>
<p>That's a path I'm tracking because I am working on a dancing Baby Groot puppet/statue. I thought you might have solved the holy grail of that project here. :-) <br><br>I'll race you to the finish line for that. (-:</p>
<p>Awesome!! Loved the way you made your video too :)</p>
Thank you Tarn! The video was very time consuming...
<p>Cool project. </p><p>About how much wire is on each of those coils?</p>
Thanks gdsmit1,<br><br>The answer to this question is not precise, but I'll try: 1/2 kg of the 0.224mm enamelled copper wire (this is one spool as you'd buy it from Farnell for example) is used for the whole project. That's 20 windings. Because the winding was by eye I tried to maintain 18 layers of copper throughout all winnings.
<p>Very clever and even more quirky and artistic! Nice job! </p>
Thank you!
<p>Awesome. </p>
<p>this is so cute and fun</p><p>I wish i could have one</p><p>like!</p>
Thanks Cher, I might consider making some for sale one day haha

About This Instructable




Bio: I am a University of Edinburgh electronics engineering student.
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