This concept is protected by US PAT 6545444, which means it would be illegal and also unethical to reproduce for personal financial gain.
That said however, you are allowed to make one for your personal use, which is what this instructable is all about.
This device is used to charge batteries, pretty much anything, but happiest with lead acid types.
Not LiPo cells which have very specific requirements, (LiPo being Lithium Polymer cells)
It can also recover dead NiCad cells, I acquired 2 Sanyo 1800 ma "C" sized cells, one was 0V the other 0.4V (considered dead and unable to be conventionally charged). Both cells are holding steady at 1.303V and 1.327V 3 days later.
Step 1: Preamble
I got it from the Bedini_Monopole3 forum.
I'm not a member of this forum or any other monopole forum, I have merely come across a thread and followed various sources and info from people who have given freely of their time and energy.
Some of whom are rick friedrich, dr peter lindemann, aaron murakami and tom bearden, thanks for their solid gold efforts.
Lastly the double platinum goes to John C Bedini for obvious reasons.
with the oscars out of the way lets get on with the build :)
Step 2: Disclaimers and Dangers
1 This circuit can put out 30 + volts DC at approx 14500 Hz in a no-load state in addition to drawing in radiant energy from the local environment.
Pictured below is a series of high voltage arcs in a neon bulb which was too close to the heatsink, input voltage is 12V DC. Usual color is a dull orange, it changed with high voltage to white core with a light pink fringe.
Needless to say the bulb was trashed, cracked glass etc.
In comparison Mains AC (from the wall) is 220V at 50 Hz, down my side of the globe anyway, which means that we're fiddling with some seriously shocking voltages here.
If you are careless you could very well be imitating one of the many rap artists around...you will be grabbing various body parts and jumping around with volumes of loud profanity.( there are better ways to fame Cyril ! )
2 Velocity Danger
The rotor, which is basically a trimmed down rollerblade/scooter wheel, has a diameter of 95mm. The magnets glued to the perimeter attain a velocity of approx 64 Kmh at 3600 rpm, doesnt sound very fast unless your body happens to be in the way if said magnets decide to let go.
Therefore this instructable is informative of nature only, I'm not saying you should build this device nor will I be held liable for injuries or damages resulting from its use.
If you are unable to accept anything outside the box, the box being our present rather old electrical engineering models which forbid a COP greater than 1 , or if the words free energy and overunity annoy the heck out of you, then proceed no further.
Step 3: The Wheel and Parts :Part1
Bearings are standard 608Z metal shield and NOT the rubber shield which creates some drag. The bearings are washed out with auto carb cleaner to get rid of the OEM grease. I then put in 3 drops of very light fridge compressor oil into each bearing, its a petro Canada product called Reflo68A.
It is important that the nut doesn't touch the bearings, even the slightest bit will cause binding/drag which will render the contraption pretty much useless. I tried using teflon tape on the bolt to take up shaft slack.
Possibly it would be better to mount the wheel in a vertical manner, then if something lets go it will go through the ceiling or wall and not soft body parts.
The SS screws and nuts are to add mass to the wheel, according to prevalent thought regarding pulsed systems ( Lawrence Tseung's "Lead-out" energy theory), its considered very beneficial to a pulsed system which incidentally this is.
The Wheel is mounted on an adjustable base to adjust the gap between coil and magnet for best response/rpm's, it pivots at the other end.
Since we're dealing with magnetic forces, absolutely all hardware in the wheel center should be Stainless Steel. Plain old steel would most likely absorb some of the magnetism and lower efficiency
Step 4: The Wheel and Parts :Part 2
I got these out of an old SCSI drive, they are epoxy coated and most likely grade 8 jobbies. There were 4 in the drive, 2 on top of the platter arm coil and 2 on the bottom.
I measured around the outer diameter and marked off the 4 magnet locations, then traced around the magnet to create a cozy little pocket to super glue them in.
A pic below of medium thick CA glue.
Finally fibre filament tape is wound around the magnets 2 or 3 times to prevent them getting lodged in the ceiling roof stomach...etc
We dont use NiB's because the coil core becomes magnetically saturated thereby losing the plot. Also the larger single curved variety has both north and south pole on the same side...ie useless for our purpose
Pics below of NiB magnet, with shiny nickel coating (the give away)
The Plot being to create very short and sharp voltage spike to draw in additional radiant energy from the local enviroment.
Im not going to describe what radiant energy is, Im very sure Tom Bearden or John Bedini are far better qualified to do that.
link to site here of tom bearden
Step 5: The Coil and Parts
I arrived at the width/thickness of the coil by waving one of the magnets above a paperclip on a table till the magnet affected the clip, and then measured the height between the magnet and table. It was about 25mm, works for me :)
The width is usually about 1.5 x the height .
Not much else to say about the coil form except that I made a slight flat to steady it and screwed it down on a ply base using plain old copper earth strap.
First wrapped insulation tape around the coil to protect the wire from shorting out by the strap.
Ply base was to raise the coil core height to the same level as the magnets.
The coil core is copper covered gas welding rod also known as R60 welding rod. I used plain old automotive shellac on each rod piece to reduce eddy currents in the core (reduces heating effect too )
Others have used galvanised iron tie wire ( building trade ) but the R60 copper covered mild steel is the stuff recommended by the inventor himself.
The magnet wire used is clear coated 0,3 mm, 90 metres long. I then cut them in half and twisted all 6 by 45m pieces together, this is know as Litz Wire or Litzing .
Litzing the wires improves the voltage characteristics a bit BUT !!!
It is not necessary to use Litzed wire
2 strands run next to each other bifilar style will work just as well. It will also save you time and hassle. The reason I litzed the wire was because, no Cyril I do have a life, there were 6 strands and the litz way was neater, a little bonus is the better voltage characteristics.
the pic below is taken from the wheel side with the holes for the wire on the other side
Step 6: Who's Cyril?
Just in case the Cyril's of the world are takin an ache, its a figure of speech.
To be exact a figure of speech of local motoring journalist Dave Abrahams'
"and followed Route 62 past Ronnie's Sex Shop (no Cyril, it's just a pub with a provocative name)"
from the article FIRST RIDE: Five passes on BMW's new full-dress tourer
"the LCD tells you the fuel level, coolant temperature, the time and what gear you're in (no, not your clothes, Cyril!)."
from the article K1200 R - riding BMW's naked wild child
You can store waypoints; even select one of hundreds of points of
interest by its phone number .... and no, Cyril, Charlize Theron is not a
point of interest. But if you have her phone number...
from the article Toyota's clean green machine gets a special extra
and I thought it sounded kinda funny....ok ok 3million unemployed and "Im an out of work clown"
anyways, on with the build and perhaps Cyril will make another guest appearance :)
Step 7: Coil Winding and Litz Wire
This is the backyard way of doing it.... across the freeway there, is an industrial area..very ghetto, like my coil winder :)
the distance to the back wall was 23.9m from inside the garage and I needed 22.5m...very very nice peter, close but nice.
So one of the ends was tied to a garage beam and the other chucked into the drill...no Cyril I didnt throw the wire in, it really is called a chuck .... :)
If you hold the drill perfectly in relation to the wire coming out then no flexing will occur and therefore no breakages,
I didnt want to wait while a rechargeable drill chugged along at 150rpm ...no way, ...2800rpm's 760watts and 3min later the one half was finished. As you twist the wire shortens, so you need to move forward slightly to prevent breakages.
Do the same to the other half and Bob's yer auntie, yer done.
Wires from the bike speedo trigger on the fork are soldered to a plain old calculator on the pcb under the = key, then all you do is press 1+ and its triggered by a magnet on a spoke of the rim and used to count the turns.
Simple math does the circumference on the rim times the number of turns and walla you arrive by the length of said wrapped wire
Step 8: The Electronics
I used 3 1N4007 diodes 1amp 1000v
1 12 ohm 5watt resistor (cos it worked and I had plenty )
1 TO3 style 2N3055 high power NPN transistor
1 wire wound variable pot 1K ohm (standard carbon track pots last about 1 hour )
1 12V dc 3 or 4 watt auto bulb ( auto as in car )
1 standard 95v neon bulb ( better get a few, they protect the collector emitter junction of the transistor )
connection blocks as needed
I first had 3 strands for trigger and 3 for power driving, however I measured the current flowing in the trigger cct and it was 'bout 10-15 milliamps, 0.3mm is good for 200ma, so I configured it as 1 trigger and 5 power. Now revs are up and charging current is up as well at about 500-600 ma.
The trick to getting everything working right is impedance matching, which means that unless your trigger coil is 13,4 ohms and power coil 3.7 ohms then you might need to swop component values till things work right. If your wire length is shorter than 45m you might need a bigger base resistor, the cct diag from the Bedini_monopole3 forum had a 100 ohms base resistor.
The carbon track variable pots dont hold up for very long, especially when twiddling with the pot, some folk have reported spikes up to 400V.
While I was tweaking in the beginning I saw some very bright light and crackling noise coming out from the 1K pot, looked like arc welding, it wrecked it so I guess thats essentially what it was.
Its really cool to pull the batt charge leads off to make it open circuit and watch tiny ball lightning hopping around in the neon bulb, however they dont last very long so at least have a camera ready :)
not much else to say here 'cept join it up as in the cct diagram in step 1
Step 9: Tuning and Timing
In practice the best performance is highest revs with lowest current draw, in my setup usually within the 1st quarter turn of the pot and thats at 12V, other voltages may work with different resistance and coil gaps.
Timing involves connecting 330ohm resistor in series with a led to the charging coil output and lighting up the wheel, after sticking on a strip at each magnet. Its only for pondering really and not necessary to get the circuit working. You will observe the magnet is already past the core when the led is pulsed, this pulse possibly is the one charging the batteries.
Lastly the wheel is not self-starting, a gentle flick with the finger does the trick.
Step 10: Odds 'n' the End
My device works well in the 8V- 18V dc range, at 12v its turning at +- 2300 rpm's and is fairly quiet.
This level of the Bedini monopole charger could be termed Learning to Crawl.
It can charge 4 batteries with 1 battery driving the circuit, and in other more advanced versions using timing circuits ( not a timing light ) a pulse can be sent to the driving battery to charge it in between the drive pulses to the coil.
It would compose of a change-over switch NC (norm closed) on the drive circuit which briefly flicks over to disconnect the batt from the drive coil and connect it to a seperate generator coil.
In practise the additional gen coil has to be out of phase with the drive coil. Say the drive coil is at 0deg then the gen coil would be positioned at either 135deg or 225deg.
In other words the circuit can charge itself... kinda sweet huh!...but dont take my word for it, rather look for yourself here :)
I have now connected a variable power supply because it has a built-in amp/volt meter, this enables me to watch the current draw while increasing the resistance of the 1K pot.
When the resistance is increased the current draw goes down till a point can be found where increasing the resistance further causes the current to jump back up again. This is termed the sweet spot and something which I have read about in the forums.
Now when running in the sweet spot and you put a load on the wheel the current will be seen to decrease till the slowing of the rpm's causes the wheel rotation to fall outside the "sweet spot", whereupon the current draw jumps back up to its former state.
I lightly just touched my finger under the wheel to create the drag but some kind of fan would be better. The next question will be finding the correct size blade of fan to not overdo things and yet load the wheel sufficiently.
Some approximate numbers are: startup =300mA sweet spot= 210mA and loaded sweet spot=180mA.
Now the less current that I need to put into this device, the greater COP will become because my 12V 7A/h batteries are still being charged, but now by progressively less input.
I dont have any motors DC or AC that exhibit this sort of characteristic where you load the shaft and current draw goes down...something else to ponder.
Something else is that when you charge a capacitor with a 12V batt all you get is 12V on the cap however, when you use the same 12V batt to power the bedini device and then charge the cap, said cap is charged to its max in a very short time. It took 30seconds to charge my 9800MFD 40V DC electrolytic cap to 55V. If you decide to discharge this cap without a resistor then you most likely will need hearing and eye protection, its very loud indeed.
Some video of a fairly silent run, at 6 seconds a ball collision inside the bearing can be heard, sounds like rough grinding.
A rather blurred version of what happens when the charge leads are pulled off the battery