Bees are having a tough time world-wide.  We need bees for our agriculture. 

This bee hive is not designed for harvesting honey.  This is just a home for bees.  Not only the bucket is habitable, but the hollow pipe that supports it in the air can also be colonized. 

In past years, bees have been getting scarcer around here.  I have had two volunteer bee colonies establish themselves along my ridge this year -- in inconvenient locations.   I hope they will find their way to this hive when the time comes for the volunteer hives to divide.  

This is just an experiment.  The hive was put up today near one of the volunteer hives, and has not yet been colonized. 

Step 1: Background

Bees have colonized an overturned cut-off drum used to support a supply of rebar off the ground. 

Local friends said that just drilling a hole in a bucket and leaving it around would attract bees.  In designing this hive, I wanted the entrance high enough off the ground that toads would not be able to leap up and gobble bees at the entrance. 

I put the entrance hole in the pipe, a little below the bucket.  That way, the bucket protects the entrance from rain. 

I think you were onto something and its a shame you got discouraged. My first thought about bees not moving into the bucket was that bees don't stick very well to the inside of buckets, a fact I make good use of when I use buckets to do bee removals. The smooth sides and bottom of a bucket make it easy to shake the bees out of one and into a hive. <br>So, why not simply texturize the bucket?<br>Line the inside with a layer of chicken wire, swirl a layer of plaster, cement, clay, or cob onto the wire, let it dry and bobs your uncle! :)<br>Ima give it a try.
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<p>Ummmm...well, I think that &quot;local friends&quot; must not include beekeepers. Don't get me wrong, I'm all for experimentation but, when your dealing with living things, probably good to do a little research if you have an investment in succeeding. You know how birdhouses have to have a particular size hole, internal dimension, etc., to attract certain birds? Bees have particular requirements as well. For example, where is your vent hole on the top? Moisture is death to a hive. Promotes disease almost immediately. Sun goes down and that cools-instant moisture on the walls. Also, bees require a particular range of tempreture to live in. They thermo-regulate by clustering in tighter or more open balls and vibrating to generate heat to keep the colony warm, and actually leaving the hive when it gets too warm. Thats why beehives are constructed out of material with decent insulating qualities-like wood. The problem with your bucket is that thin plastic would change temp almost instantly, and the bees couldn't adjust the temp inside fast enough. Also, the home needs to be expandable because if they run out of room, they have to leave-that's what &quot;swarming&quot; is. Etc., etc.-more research, pal. Lot's of great info available, and check-bet there are local beekeeping clubs that you can check out for education. Good luck</p>
<p>I like this - helps my garden. Any updates on how it is working?</p><p>RE: Heat problems. Would reflective (shiny) paint help at all?</p>
<p>Bees never voluntarily colonized it. The materials were used for other things. </p>
<p>Next thing to do is a Beehive in a nut shell :D</p>
I saw the beehive in a jar idea and thought it'd be cool to marry your idea with theirs. Get a square pipe like a rain gutter. <br>Drill holes for the bees. <br>Set it in the ground. <br>Drill holes for jars on all 4 sides staggered all the way up. <br>Cap the top (possibly with another jar). <br>Screw jars in all the jar holes (wax a stripe inside the top of the jar). <br>Now you have a Jar Beehive Tree...
A little hard for me to get the picture, but it sounds like a nice idea. I no longer keep bees.
I like it and I think I will try it. I I've in Oregon and even if it's illegal we need bees. So as long as some move in and if some one asks I'll say it's a spider house and the bees just moved it. Lol
Good luck. I like the idea but I never did get a volunteer colony to move in.
PLEASE NOTE: THIS TYPE OF BEEHIVE IS ILLEGAL IN MOST STATES!!! In almost all states, it is illegal to own a beehive with non-removable frames. This is due to diseases, mites and hive beetle infestations. All frames must be able to be removed for inspection. Exemptions may exist if you have no intent to harvest or manipulate the bees, but I think even those are very rare. Please check local agriculture regulations prior to setting this up. Even though you are trying to help the honey bees (a VERY noble cause), you could be doing more harm if the bees in your hive have a disease that can't be observed and they transfer it to other bees during contact or &quot;robbing&quot;, etc. <br> <br>The idea is VERY ingenious, though. Notes on making it more attractive: on the bottom of the bucket (the inside roof once inverted), screw in some small strips of wood about 1/2&quot; x 1/2&quot; x desired length. What this will do is give them an easier start at drawing comb (similar to a top bar hive). Then, find a lemongrass scent, or purchase some cheap &quot;swarm lure&quot; and you'll have success during swarm season. Bees will not just &quot;up and leave&quot; their home for no reason; you will only get new residents if they are swarming or if their old hive becomes uninhabitable. <br> <br>- Mike, an experienced beekeeper inNevada
It is interesting that in my early years here in the forest, I would hear many swarms of bees go by each year. In the past few years I may have possibly heard one. Whatever it is that we are doing with our established, legal behavior, it appears to need some tweaking. <br> <br>I tried. It never got colonized. I pulled it up out of the ground.
Thanks for following up on the progress. You might try baiting it like this fellow did. If you do, please let us know how it works as I have at least 40 reclaimed PVC pipes suited just for this purpose. http://www.instructables.com/id/Baithive/?ALLSTEPS
As I said, I pulled it up out of the ground. My experiment is over, but if you want to carry on and get it working, go for it!
Hi, <br> <br>Those buckets also come in a half size to the ones you have. <br> <br>Have you noticed that multiple buckets slid together create a openable stack with spaces? <br> <br>Maybe drilling of small holes in the bottoms for transit and sides <br> <br>Mod the bucket a knife some small tubes/pvc and some glue or caulking and you could make entrace ways <br> <br>Just thinking.
You should make a skep and hang it on a tree. It is easy and cheap as it gets. Bees will love it. Instructions here, its on Serbian Cyrillic but you can understand almost everything from the pictures only. <br><br>http://spos.info/forum/index.php?topic=839.msg10469#msg10469<br><br>Bees like some kind of grases, so you can rub it into your beehive to lure them. Ask some local beekeeper which one are used in your area. Enjoy!
Hi Sasham, <br><br>I'm glad you liked the bee hive idea. It's a nice concept, but the bees are still ignoring it. <br><br>Thanks for the link. I never heard of that grass rubbing trick.
here's a similar design that allows you to take honey: <a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-your-own-Honey-Cow-Top-Bar-Bee-Hive/">http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-your-own-Honey-Cow-Top-Bar-Bee-Hive/</a>
A few comments. First, I applaud your efforts, and I think it silly that people who know nothing about beekeeping are criticizing the design. This looks like a good experiment. As with most experiments, you try something and see if it works. Uninformed people saying &quot;no, that won't work because of x, y, and z&quot; is silly.<br><br>I'm a beekeeper, and while wood might be better, you've already found out that feral bees will inhabit most anything. A large open container with a small hole like that seems about right for bees.<br><br>As for the hive being colonized, spring time is perfect, as that is when swarms happen.
Thanks. There is a feral colony in an old half-drum about 20 ft. from it. Maybe they will find the welcome mat on the bucket hive eventually.
could you put the bucket right side up, and put removable shelves in it? i saw this instructable, hoping that there would be a way to extract the honey
My idea was to get bees started and leave them in peace, like a wild hive, not to steal their honey I see no way to do removable shelves. It's probably better to do a standard hive. Go for it! The main idea is to get more bees going. Cultivated hives are better than none at all.
any bees yet? interesting design...i'd love to put these up around all my honey suckle if they work
Nope. No bees yet. I think it would have to be seeded with a young colony to get it started.
i've heard and read that using sugar or syrup can attract them and goad them into establishing a hive, dont use honey though there can be spores in honey that can transmit diseases, would the fact that hive is made of plastic be a factor? <br>Maybe if you use a wooden container, btw with a similar set up you can even get a wooden post with a few holes drilled into it, and bumble bees will set up shop there. Good luck!
Wondering about the bright white plastic...has anyone ever seen a plastic bee hive in use before?&nbsp; I have seen wood used.....don't know how bee friendly plastic is to them.&nbsp; it would get hot, and plastics emit gasses...even if unnoticed by us. i would opt for chemical free wood instead.&nbsp; why add more plastics to the How hard is it for the bees to climb up and also to store honey to feed young in such a slick surfaces container?&nbsp; <br /> <br /> Just wondering...
Today they are making hive body parts from polystyrene.
I have seen those textured plastic sheets inside the wooden hives at the nature center where i used to work. However the frame was always wood. The idea of bees living in plastic pipes and buckets bothers me. there are so many other frugal and Natural ways to entice them .
I think the &quot;textured plastic sheets&quot; may have been sheets of stamped beeswax that are sometimes attached to the wooden frames to give the bees a head start in the right direction. I am thinking that, in a vertical pipe hive, drilling holes in the pipe for pieces of rebar, or thinner rod material to go through would at least give a lot of horizontal supports for bees to begin hive building on. Probably, a method for hanging starter sheets of wax from those rods could be devised, also. To clean out a dead hive, for example, the rods could be pulled back out the holes and a cylindrical knife could be pushed through to cut the comb from the pipe, and perhaps remove it with the same cylindrical knife in the same process. If it didn't come out too damaged, it could be mined for honey, perhaps. Plastic is often longer-lasting than wood for hives here, where it rains a lot. One is not supposed to use treated lumber for the boxes. Plastics may out-gas, but I think the rate is slow enough that hive ventilation should keep the problem within healthy limits.
Thinkenstein - I applaud your attempt, but would agree W8ZNX - go with a top bar hive. I will provide links and plans if you like. I have some KTBH's here in North Carolina. If you have the tools, and access to some old pallets, I am guessing less that $30. Also, to try to catch the swarm, here it is between April and Jun 30th, but mount the hive about 8 ft off the ground. I have never done it that way, but some people swear by it. Also, if you treat the wood, please treat it with a 20:1 mixture of Linseed Oil and melted Beeswax. It easy, and natural. Leaves a nice colored wood. I probably should do an 'ible on building one, but that would not be anytime soon. No need to build more right now. Good luck!
Hi, I am getting into honey bees and would love to get so plans on the hive with the old pallets. The company that I work for had thrown away all the wooden pallets until I found someone local that would pick them up weekly. Anyway I have plenty of pallets and time. I live in Knightdale N.C. and my email is closetosky@yahoo.com Thanks
Nope they were a polystyrene. I know what beesway is. :-)
I know nothing about bee keeping, but google knows all and plastic bee keeping equipment does exist, and is sold online. The only issue I see with plastic is bees don't take to it as they do natural material. i saw a site saying keepers should spray the plastic down with sugar water to acclimate them to the plastic. I'm curious, have any bees moved in since you've posted this?
Nope, no volunteers yet. -- The two volunteer hives that got started on the ridge this year have died out. One, in a half 55-gallon drum apparently got wiped out by hungry toads that just parked at the entrance and ate the bees as they came and went. -- The other one appears to have died out, too, for some other reason, because I gave it toad protection with a wire mesh fence around the entrance. Both had low entrances, so a high entrance appears to be favorable. -- I can note the relative absence of bees around my garden, and I don't like it. I may just go for a standard hive, although the honey doesn't interest me, and I don't really want to get into intervention bee keeping again.
Many years ago I kept bees.&nbsp; I used wooden boxes and also plastic boxes.&nbsp; The bees didn't seem to object to the plastic and the plastic boxes had better longevity than the wooden ones.&nbsp; I live in a tropical climate with lots of humidity.&nbsp; Maybe in a drier climate the wood boxes would be more attractive to me.&nbsp;&nbsp; Anyway the plastic boxes seemed to work just fine.&nbsp; <br />
Good to know....I can understand that.
nice idea, love pickel bucket projects, but sry it will not work, as stated by others, not enought room for a strong hive that can store enought honey to winter over also a weak hive can be wiped out by a strong hive that steals all its honey no provision for ventilation bees need ventilation to control inside temp of the hive no way to inspect the brood which would make this style hive ilegal in some parts of the United States reason is not mites, but &quot; Paenibacillus larvae larvae &quot; better known as american foul brood AFB nasty stuff that kills a hive can spread to other hives most of all if strong hive steals honey from weak infected hive in the end causing more than one hive to fail for cheap/simple hive see &quot; top bar hives &quot; your truly
Thanks for the thoughts. I pretty much go along with everything you say. I was hoping to install a wild hive that never needed attention. Maybe I'll just get a standard hive, but even so I really don't want to get back into opening hives again. I'm not interested in the honey.
If you're interested in pollinators, rather than honey collection, try orchard mason bees. They reproduce anywhere with holes and mud (look em up and you'll see what I mean)
Thanks for the idea. It would be nice to play around with them, too.
It is great that you are trying. If it works, great! <br /> and if it doesn't,<br /> well too bad, but we have not lost anything.&nbsp; <br /> I leave some of my sprouting broccoli to go to flower just for the bees and humming birds every year.<br /> I would just like to remind people that there are lots of other types of bees and wasps too.&nbsp; Many of them live in burrows in the ground or in holes in wood.&nbsp; This year I have bumble bees that took over a wren box.&nbsp;&nbsp; I think they had the runs because there was brown fluid dripping out but now it has stopped.&nbsp;<br /> &nbsp; I also drill holes in wood for orchard mason bees and others.&nbsp; 6 inch deep holes or more and different sizes for different types of bees and wasps.&nbsp; A new thing this year is holes in cob.&nbsp; Cob is a mucky&nbsp; mix of clay sand and straw that gets really hard when it dries out.&nbsp; I made the holes with random pieces of round bar and old pieces of clothes hanger and old knitting needles.<br /> Leave them stuck straight down in a piece of cob for a couple of days, twist them out and you have a bunch of holes in a cob B-block!&nbsp;&nbsp; It might work, it might not.<br /> But what have I lost if it doesn't?&nbsp;&nbsp; Bees are getting scarcer and the more ideas to help them, the better.&nbsp; You might not need cob, maybe ordinary soil will work. <br /> Depends on your soil and your local bees.&nbsp; Leaf cutter bees are amazing fliers!<br /> They ride that curved up leaf through the air&nbsp; like it is a surfboard!<br /> And in my area, they need 10 to 12 mm holes in wood or in the ground.&nbsp; ( Up to half inch)<br /> Brian<br />
This is great! Love the Cob idea~~~!
Great idea!!! I am going to suggest and make some for my dad who is a beekeeper. Should be great for catching swarms from his hives.
So, did the bees ever move into the bucket?<br />
Not yet.&nbsp; It hasn't been up long.&nbsp; Fingers crossed.&nbsp; <br />
have you tried puting some honey or sweet suripe at the entrance to the hive to mabey attract them faster?? just a suggestion(may not work)
not sure if this would work but you could put a bee atractant inside to get the bees to go in there??, nice instructlble 5/5 i might start mine soon, as soon as i get a big bucket :)
Hello, glad to see you are taking interest in keeping bee's, but I have something that may need to be pointed out. It is illegal in all states to intentionally keep bee's in a container that does not allow removable frames.&nbsp; Any Top Bar Hive, or Langstroth Hive will suffice. A bucket does not,. any container that does not allow the colony to be inspected by being able to remove the comb without destroying it is illegal. The law can be bent though, for example, if bees decide to move into an old toolbox in your yard, and you do nothing with them, it is perfectly legal. If you took bees from one location and placed them in the box it is illegal. If you enticed them to swarm into the box using lures, it is illegal. In other words, if you entice bees into this container you are breaking the law, and possibly could get into a little trouble with your local bee inspector. If the bee's decide all by themselves to move into it, you are not required to do anything about it, and are not in violation.<br /> <br /> Why? It's actually for protection of bees, and for other bees in the area. if a foul brood outbreak happens in your area, the inspector will need to inspect all colonies and destroy all those found to be Foul Brood positive. A contyainer that does not allow easy inspection could prolong an outbreak etc. If interested in keeping bees, but letting them be to their own devices, look at TBH (top bar hives) as they are simpler and cheaper to get started than a typical Langstroth setup.<br />
On another note, the bees would probably like it a little better if the pvc pipe did not protrude nearly as deep into the bucket, give it a couple inches at best they will like the open space better. I would also paint or otherwise make the bucket more opaque. make a few small holes in the top to allow moisture to ventilate better. As far as being plastic, with a top hole for better ventilation, it shouldn't be a problem. maybe give it a wrap or two with a blanket if your winters are cold. Insulation isn't nearly as inportant for the bees as it is for reducing condensation. If you have had bee's in the past you probably know they cluster to avoid low temps, but condensation can cause water to drop on them from above and chill the cluster. over all nice idea, and neat looking, just call it a birdhouse that got taken over by bees to avoid the bee inspector making you remove it.<br /> <br />
I put a second bucket over the first bucket recently.&nbsp; That traps a little air between them, which should provide some insulation.&nbsp; The top bucket also should provide some UV protection for the core bucket.&nbsp; If the top bucket goes, one could always just slip it off and replace it.&nbsp; <br />

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Bio: I'm a refugee from Los Angeles, living in backwoods Puerto Rico for about 35 years now and loving it. I built my own home ... More »
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