Introduction: Bent Lamination Form (How To)

In this intractable, you will learn how to create a bending form for bent lamination. I made it at TechShop

http://www.techshop.ws

What you will need:

1. Metal ruler (3ft)
2. Heavy objects
3. French curves
4. Drafting & design fade-out vellum (drafting paper)
5. Blue painters tape
6. Number 2 pencil
7. Bandsaw
8. Drill (with Philips tip)
9. Drillbit for pilot holes
10. Drywall screws (2in)
11. Wood clamps
12. MDF board (3/4in) - With and height depend on your project
13. Birch plywood (thickness - 3/4in) (width - 2ft) (length - 2ft)
14. Wood router (Flush trim bit with bearing on top)

Step 1: Drawing the Shape

Draw you shape with your number 2 pencil using the french curves for small curves, your metal ruler and heavy objects for your big curves, and your metal ruler for straight lines.

Step 2: Accurate Measurements

It's important to first create a series of points with your ruler so that you shape lines flow smoothly, as illustrated below.

Step 3: Cutting the Shape

After taping your drawing to the MDF board, rough cut your shape on the bandsaw.

Step 4: Using Your Template

After using an oscillating sander to clean up the inner curves and a disc sander to clean the outer curves, trace your shape to another MDF board using your sanded shape and then rough cut the same shape only this time leave at least 1/16 of an inch between your cut and your pencil line. Next clamp both shapes together making sure the bottom of the boards are flush and that the new shape sticks out at least 1/16 of an inch past your template shape. Its also, helpful to use screws to make sure the two pieces of MDF board don't shift.

Step 5: Flush Trim Routering

Next attach your flush trim bit to your router and run the router along your template shape. Make sure to keep your router flat and level to your template piece. It make take multiple passes to get your shapes flush. The key is to take your time and don't rush.

Step 6: Inside Cutout

Using your ruler or tape measure, create a series of marks 4 inches from the shaped edge of your board. Then using your french curves and metal rules add in the curves as best your can. It's not important that the pencil line match your shape exactly unless your a perfectionist like me.

Step 7: Matching the Pieces

Cut the pencil line using a bandsaw, and then trace and cut the same shape on your other piece like so.

Step 8: Attaching the Inner Blocks

Next, rough cut block to fit between your shapes. It's better to cut them too big and sand them down with the disc sander or oscillating sander. Then clam your blocks to your first piece and screw them together. Be sure to drill a pilot hole first for each screw. It also helps to counter sink each hole to keep your screws flush with the MDF board.

Step 9: Final Step

Next attach your second piece in the same way. I like to use a carpenter's square to make sure the pieces match up. Once both pieces are screwed together, it's a good idea to clean the whole piece up with the disc sander and oscillating sander. This insures the piece is as flush as possible. I also like to cover the shape with cellophane tape so that my laminates don't stick to the shape.

And that's it your all done.