After seeing this bike on a bicycle design blog I was inspired to build my own. It was made by someone named John Hobson. The concept is the same, but mine is fairly different.
Also I had some left over epoxy and fiberglass from a kayak I built and was just itching to find a project I could use it on (or maybe I was just itchy from all the fiberglass). Anyway, since I wasn't thrilled with my current bike that was a cheapo 15 year old big box store bike, I thought it would be great to replace the old frame with a wood composite frame and have something unique.
The part of the design I liked was that the top and bottom parts of the frame are like leaf springs separated by the seat tube. I thought that having a suspension system integrated into the frame was a really cool idea. Ideally vibrations and bumps would be absorbed into the frame and returned back to the wheels, without making the frame too bouncy. The frame I built consists of plywood, fiberglass, epoxy, and even paper, so there is no welding required.
Before I get started here's some bike terminology I had to learn:
Head Tube - short tube for the handle bars, and front fork assembly.
Top Tube - horizontal section that connects the seat tube to the head tube.
Down Tube - diagonal section that connect the head tube to the bottom bracket.
Bottom Bracket - This is where the pedals and crank attach.
Seat Tube - longer tube that the seat post slides into.
Chain Stays - Two sections that connect the bottom bracket to the rear wheel.
Seat Stays - Two sections that lead from the seat to the rear wheel.
Dropouts - brackets to connect the rear wheel.
Caution: Riding a bike is dangerous, riding a home built bike is even more so. If you decide to build a bike, take it slow, wear a helmet and other protective equipment, reinspect your work, and be prepared for it to break at any moment.
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Signing UpStep 1: Get The Materials
I bought a bottom bracket, bottom bracket shell, and crank from Amazon for about $50. The rest of the parts I plan to take from a junk bike I had lying around.
The fiberglass, epoxy, and spar varnish were left over from a kayak build. I bought these online from a boat building supplier. It is 6 oz glass cloth and the epoxy is clear, non-blushing that takes about 24 hours or more to fully cure.
Tools needed: Saw, sandpaper, rasp, a couple of pliers, drill, power sander, power jig saw, some solid wire, natural fiber rope or twine, a vise, and several disposable brushes, cups, and latex gloves. When needed be sure to wear eye protection and a mask to keep gunk out of your lungs. I also had to buy some specialty bike tools, a chain tool and crank arm remover.
For removing parts off the old bike I used a hack saw, locking pliers, bench grinder, and a Dremel.
















































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Is this springy to ride ?
How would it work if the seat tube passed through a sleeve set into the top tube/seat stay arc, rigidly attached only at the bottom bracket?
Dave
from a stress stand point would it be better to have the pedals mounted inside the frame rather than outside? that way the force you put onto the pedals (downward) would be pushing against the frame rather than pulling.
I also have built ply and epoxy boats taking the construction to bikes makes sense.
If you used west system epoxy let http://www.epoxyworks.com/ know and they could make an article out of it, in fact they have an article about epoxy and wood bikes in it this issue.
Have you seen the Pashley Tuberider? It is a great looker. I fitted mine out with a motor system driving the chainwheel. Pashleys all have hub brakes, so motorising them is a challenge. Photos as www.mr-motorvator.co.uk
Does it still go?
Thnxx for sharing.
That is the seat tube is welded to the bottom bracket - to make a "T".
you then have 2 holes in the bike frame for the seat tube to go through (from the bottom to the top) yeah?
the seat tube and bottom bracket are metal and covered in the veneer once inserted into the bike frame.
it would give the bottom bracket strength and you wouldn't have to have the stuff around it to hold it in place.
I see that you posted this a couple of years ago. Have you made another since then? I'd love to see an update.
If it were the other way around, if for some odd reason bikes were made out of plywood and someone suggested a STRONGER, BETTER frame from metal tubing I would applaud but this kind of suggestion that puts people at risk is very irresponsible. I propose some industry standards and laws that hold bicycle frames to standards for durability a bit like car crash tests and road-worthy regulations.
You only have one body and one life kids, please think before endangering it.
To try to equate general inventions and artists? You really don't get it.
Furthermore, my level of intelligence has nothing to do with how well parents watch their children or the fact that through the fault of no one, incidents happen. Safe to say everyone is thankful you were not Mr. Wright with sons named Orville and Wilbur.
News flash, people: LIFE is risky no matter what you do. You can choose to live it or to spend your time on this earth in complete misery worrying constantly about the countless ways you might get hurt.
Life IS NOT very risky if you use common sense. No worrying required. If. You. Use. Common. Sense. Do you notice a trend here?
I would rather take my chances on this bike than drive to work- statistically I would be safer on the bike. I'll bet you don't realize that driving is the highest risk activity you have ever engaged in. Statistically you don't have a chance behind the wheel- but you 'run' out to the store without a second thought.