I moved halfway across the country recently, leaving my old 2x8 Bed behind, and was looking to buy a spare, modern storage bed to replace it. Looking at Ikea's offerings online, I came across the Brimnes bed and realized hey, I could make that! While this version lacks drawers, it is still a sleek, low-slung modern bed with four sizable storage compartments, hidden behind sliding geometric screens.
The Box Bed breaks down into four identical plywood units, each small enough throw in the backseat. Each unit is stiffened with an internal rib, fitted with a shelf, and has two sliding doors made from old radiator covers. The platform nature of the bed gives good, even support and eliminates the need for a box spring (saving money!).
I made mine from high-grade plywood, running up the cost. Very little of the plywood is actually exposed, so you could substitute cheaper grades to save cash. I used 1/2" stock instead of 3/4" where possible in an effort to reduce weight and expense. I also made this whole project with just a circular saw; it would go faster and be more accurate if you had access to a table saw.
(Apologies for some of the photos; the bedroom is small and so it is hard to back up far enough to get the whole bed in the frame)
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You will need these materials:
2 4x8 sheets 3/4" plywood
2 4x8 sheets 1/2" plywood
#6 x 1-1/2" slip-fit wood or drywall screws (I used Spax hardwood screws, which are superb for preventing splitting in plywood)
3/8" dowels for shelf pins and screw plugs
You will need these tools:
4-6 12" bar clamps
Relevant safety equipment
Step 1: Cuts!
Cut one panel of 3/4" plywood at 32" x 42" (the top); one 3/4" panel at 32" x 14" (side one); one 1/2" panel at 32" x 14" (side two); one 1/2" panel at 40-3/4" x 14" (the stiffening rib); one 3/4" panel at 40-3/4" x 3" (the door track); and one 1/2" panel at 40-1/2" x 18" (the shelf).
To cut square pieces out of sheet goods with just a circular saw, clamp down a straight edge, forming a temporary fence. Measure your circular saw from the edge of the baseplate to the face of the blade, and offset the straight edge from your desired cut line by that same amount. When cutting, push the straight side of the base plate of the saw against the straight edge, guiding your cut. For clean cuts in sheet goods, use a 60-tooth finishing blade with carbide teeth, which will cut smoothly with minimum chip-out.
For cross cuts, clamp down a speed square, registered against the long edge of the work piece, as your saw guide.
All the measuring and clamping and re-arranging is kind of tedious, but important for accuracy. Take the time to make precise cuts, and later joinery will be painless.
Step 2: Dadoes!
Set the blade depth on the circular saw to 3/8" of an inch. Test cut on a piece of scrap to ensure the blade depth is accurate. Run two cuts on the underside of the top (the side that is more flawed), parallel to the long side, at 1" in from the edge and 1-3/4" in from the edge.
Set the blade depth to 1/8" of an inch. Repeat the above cuts, mirroring them in the 3" strip of wood that will be the bottom track for the doors.
It is important that these cuts be super accurate, so take care in setting up the straight edge. The depths are also important, as they allow enough play in the doors to make them removable if need be, so again, take care in registering the saw and make some test cuts to confirm accuracy.
Step 3: Assembly!
Coat one end of the rib with a thin, even layer of wood glue. Tilt up and align one side of the 3/4" rib panel with the 12" mark on the side panel. Pre-drill and screw together, using a square to check that everything is flush.
Attach the door track parallel to the rib, flush with the front of the 3/4" side.
Repeat for the matching 1/2" side panel, forming an asymmetrical "H"-shaped arrangement when viewed from above.
Coat the top edges of the "H" with a thin, even layer of wood glue and lay on the top, making sure all corners are flush (tweaking the underlying structure as necessary), screw the top to the sides and ribs. Lay out your screw holes evenly for a neat appearance.
Halfway up the inside, drill out 6 3/8" diameter holes 3/8" deep -- two on each side and two on the stiffening rib -- and glue in 3/4" chunks of dowel to serve as shelf pins.
Keep in mind as you assemble the boxes that you must make 2 sets of 2 boxes, mirroring the arrangement of the 3/4" and 1/2" sides.
Step 4: Doors!
Set the material on a scrap piece of plywood. Clamp a straightedge down. Set the blade depth on the saw to about 1/8". A carbide finishing blade (60-tooth) will cut sheet metal fairly handily (it's what I used). You can also buy specialty sheet metal blades, or use a regular framing blade with the blade rotating backwards. Wear safety glasses, tight-fitting gloves, ear muffs, and long sleeves. This process is really loud and kicks up a lot of crap.
Cut eight panels, each at 13-1/2" x 22". If using a radiator screen with a geometric cut-out pattern, strive to make the cut lines fall on solid seams.
Smooth down all the burrs, rough edges, and corners with a flat file and sanding block. Spray paint with metal enamel. Mount a handle at each end of each door with sheet-metal screws, made out of a scrap of 1/2" plywood.
Step 5: Finishing
Plywood tends to be rather dense and un-accepting of finishes. The high glue content and thin veneers keep it from being very absorptive. In an effort to darken the wood a bit and bring out the grain, I used a mixture of 80% teak oil and 20% paint thinner for the undercoat. The thinner helps get into the denser grain. Rub the oil into the wood with a clean, lint-free rag, let sit for fifteen minutes, then buff off any excess with another rag.
Once (thoroughly!) dry, buff down with some high (220+) sandpaper, then top coat with an oil-base poly. I used a water-base poly, which is fine as long as the undercoat is 100 million percent dry before the top coat is applied. Otherwise, the top coat can bubble and peel.
Once dry, buff down with 220 grit and wax. Assemble the four boxes in a grid so that the 3/4" sides of each bed are all to the outside perimeter and the 1/2" sides are to the interior. Insert shelves, then flex doors into place, sliding the top of each door up into the top dado first and then settling into the bottom dado. If doors don't slide freely, sand down the edges and wax a little bit with paste or auto wax for smooth operation.
Throw your mattress on top and take a well-deserved rest!