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King Tutankhamen, Pharaoh of Egypt was buried in 1350 BC with many artifacts of his life including this royal cabinet. I have created these plans from photographs and dimensions available on the internet. I also used the "golden ratio" as a design guide. Basic woodworking tools will suffice to create this fine piece of history!

Step 1: The Plan Front and Back

Begin by cutting 4ea. Legs. Each is 1X1 square 30" long. Each leg should have mortise slots cut at each cross member and panel location. Cross member Slots should be 1/4" wide X 3/4" long X 1/4" depth. Panel Slots should be 1/4" wide by full panel length X 1/8" depth. All slots should be centered on the legs. Cut the panel and top cross bar for the back only. The 1/2" thick panel should be 7.5" tall and 16 3/4 wide with the last 1/8 on each side cut to 1/4" thick on center to insert in the leg panel slots. Cross bars should be 1X1X 17 long with the last 1/4" on each side cut to 1/4" thick to insert into the leg cross member slots.

Step 2: The Sides

The 1/2" thick panel should be 7.5" tall and 9 3/4 wide with the last 1/8 on each side cut to 1/4" thick on center to insert in the leg panel slots. Cross bars should be 1X1X 10 long with the last 1/4" on each side cut to 1/4" thick to insert into the leg cross member slots.

Step 3: The Top Lid

This custom "gull wing" lid is my interpretation of the original piece. A drawer or top lid only design may be preferred. Cut the top 1/2" thick material to 18.5" X 11.5". Add 1" X 1/4" strips at all top edges and bisecting the center as pictured.

Step 4: The Front Lid

Cut 1/2" thick material to 8 1/4" X 16 1/2". Add a 1 X 16 1/2" X 1/4" thick strip to the top. This part should be connected to the top lid by two hinges as pictured. Holes may be drilled up to 3/8" depth for the top hinges as needed. I used full extension kitchen cabinet hinges to secure the top lid to the cabinet back as shown. A hinge lock is also needed to prevent the lid from slamming down unexpectedly.

Step 5: Frame/ Panel Assembly

Assemble the side frames with the side panels first. Use glue in the cross member joints only. The panels should be captivated without glue! Cut a bottom 9.5 X 16.5 X 1/2" thick board and use biscuit joints to secure it between the cross members flush to the member tops. The front cross member and rear cross members and panel can then be fully assembled.

Step 6: Add Detail Work

Google search "hieroglyph to English translator" to find a source of desired phrases. Mine says "Families are forever" and has each of our names. Pencil draw the hieroglyphs then use a dermal tool and 1/16" cutting ball to carve the symbols. Two knobs should also be carved with a symbol as shown. Next use 3/8" plywood make the fret work. Two 4.75" X 16.5" and two 4.75" X 9.5" planks should be cut and verified to fit in the frames. Trim as needed to get an easy fit. Sketch the symbols as desired and cut them out. Sand to round each edge.

Step 7: Finish the Job

Stain the cabinet ebony black. Paint the gold leaf symbols with gold leaf paint. The hieroglyphs are best done with a gold leaf pen. Use gloss enamel paint for the black fret work. When all is dry, use a hot glue gun to carefully install the fret work. Give the whole project a couple coats of shellac and finish with a furniture wax. You are now the owner of a fine piece of Egyptian furniture!! Happy building!! P.S. a hole drilled in the back makes a nice cell phone cord entrance!!
That is so cool! I'm going to try this some time soon, keep up the good work
This is awesome! Great job!
What a cool idea! I believe Hatshepsut was the first to have holes drilled into the palace furniture so she could use her pink Razr.
Ahhh! I love ancient Egypt!!! I Want! I Want! I Want!
Wow! Great work! I should start cruising museum catalogs to for inspiration! Thanks!

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Bio: I have been a sheep herder, maid service, bagger/ stocker, roofer, US Navy sailor, boiler technician, Mormon missionary, bee keeper, AAA tow truck driver, flower ... More »
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