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This Instructable will show you, in detail, how to build a high-quality quadcopter for flying FPV and recording aerial photos/videos.

We all know humans can't fly. Our bones are far too dense and flapping our arms does not produce adequate lift to overcome the pull of gravity, but luckily we can use technology to give us the experience of flying. I'm not talking about flying in airplanes though, or a hang glider, or jumping out of airplanes, or using a zip line. We can actually use multirotor aircraft to give us the impression of flying using a technology called FPV. I think "flying" with an FPV-equipped multirotor is even better than flying with any of the aforementioned technologies though because multirotors are infinitely more agile. Flying with FPV is more like being a bird and less like being thrown through the air. It is an amazing, and very fun, technology.

This Instructable will show you how to build what I would categorize as a high-performance FPV quadcopter that can be used to take amazing aerial photos and videos. We will be using a top-of-the-line flight controller (the DJI Naza M Lite) and an excellent FPV system from Fat Shark, with the PilotHD camera for both recording video and delivering the FPV feed. We will also be using high quality motors and ESCs designed specifically for use in multirotors. Finally, we will be using a premium-quality Spektrum radio system. More about the parts list for this project can be found in the next step.

Instructable Overview

I always like to keep in mind the big picture of a project as complex as building an FPV quadcopter. So, this Instructable will consist of four major parts which we will go through more or less (probably more on the less side) in order:

  1. Assemble the quadcopter frame
  2. Attach the electronics to the frame
  3. Wire all of the electronics
  4. Program the flight controller/radio transmitter

My intention for this Instructable is to make it much more than just a set of directions for assembling a quadcopter. I want this Instructable to help you understand how each part of the quadcopter works and understand the logic behind everything from part selection to build strategy. I am doing this for a few reasons. First, you might not build your quadcopter exactly the same way I am in this Instructable,or you might build a different multirotor in the future. I think it will help you to understand how everything works. Second, in case something on your quadcopter breaks (which is unfortunately somewhat likely because you will probably crash at some point) you will want to understand how each part works so you can make repairs. Last, and perhaps most importantly, I think quadcopter pilots who really understand how the technology works are better pilots. If you were a passenger in an airplane, you would certainly like to know that the pilot understands how the aircraft functions. Fully understanding the way an aircraft works allows a pilot to adapt quickly while flying to solve problems.

Instructable Table of Contents

  1. Gather Your Parts
  2. Assemble the Inner Frame
  3. Attach the Motors to the Motor Mounts
  4. Create Motor Cable Extensions
  5. Attach Motors to Inner Frame
  6. Attach Landing Legs to the Motor Mounts
  7. Attach the Camera Holder to the Inner Frame
  8. Solder Ferrite Beads to the Power Distribution Board
  9. Solder FPV Power Cable to the Power Distribution Board
  10. Assemble Battery Connector
  11. Solder the Battery Connector to the Power Distribution Board
  12. Solder DJI Power Module Connections to the Power Distribution Board
  13. Solder ESC Connectors to the Power Distribution Board
  14. Mount the Power Distribution Board to the Inner Frame
  15. Add Velcro Tape and Strap
  16. Attach Flight Controller Mount to Inner Frame
  17. Attach LED Indicator Mount
  18. Install DJI LED Indicator
  19. Install the Radio Receiver
  20. Install the Power Module
  21. Install the FPV Transmitter
  22. Install the FPV Camera
  23. Install the GPS Module
  24. About the Naza M Lite
  25. Connect the Radio Receiver to the Flight Controller
  26. Connect the LED Indicator to the Naza M Lite
  27. Connect the ESCs to the Motors
  28. Program the ESCs
  29. Connect the Power Module to the Flight Controller
  30. Connect the ESCs to the Naza M Lite
  31. Connect the GPS/Compass Module to the Flight Controller
  32. Install the Naza M Lite
  33. Connect the FPV Components
  34. Bind the Radio Transmitter to the Receiver
  35. Set the Model in the Spektrum DX6i
  36. Attach the Lower Shell to the Inner Frame
  37. Attach the Rear Upper Shell
  38. Attach the Front Upper Shell/Camera Cover
  39. Insert the Battery
  40. Install the Naza M Lite Driver
  41. Install Assistant Software
  42. Connect the Naza M Lite via USB
  43. Select Multirotor Type
  44. Set GPS Module Mounting Location
  45. Calibrate the Transmitter Sticks
  46. Reverse the GEAR Switch Direction
  47. Calibrate the Flight Mode Switches
  48. Set Failsafe Mode
  49. Attach Battery and Antenna to Fat Shark Goggles
  50. Attach the Propellers
  51. Appendix A: Charge the Battery
  52. Appendix B: Calibrating the Compass Module

Step 1: Gather Your Parts

We will need a bunch of parts to build the Quanum Venture FPV quadcopter.

To build your Quanum Venture quadcopter, you are going to need to order some parts, quite a few parts in fact. Before I list the parts used in this tutorial, I just wanted to make a note about the supplier I chose when purchasing components. I ordered all of the components used in this tutorial from HobbyKing. HobbyKing is an online retailer of a wide-range of hobby parts, including parts for building multirotor aircraft. The reason I chose to order components from HobbyKing is, quite simply, because their prices are very low. Now, I do not intend this page to be a review of HobbyKing, or of any of the products listed, but I just wanted to note that the trade-off for HobbyKing’s low prices is slow shipping speeds and non-existent customer service. This last point is probably the biggest drawback to using HobbyKing, their customer service is absolutely pathetic. If you don't want to use HobbyKing, you can usually find the parts you need from sellers on ebay.

Also, HobbyKing's stock levels vary widely and rapidly. There is a high likelihood that by the time your read this Instructable HobbyKing will have run out of parts, discontinued parts, or parts might simply have disappeared from the site. It it not so important that you use exactly the same parts I did. Use the parts list below more as a guide for making sure you get all the parts you need, even if you have to get slightly different parts. If you want help picking components, I've written a lot of information on my multirotor blog, Black Tie Aerial. There are a bunch of posts about choosing various components, from motors to FPV gear.

I just want to make one more quick note about shopping for parts before getting to the list. HobbyKing has warehouses located in many countries, with their main warehouse located in Hong Kong. I found that ordering all of my quadcopter parts from the Hong Kong (international) warehouse led to extremely high shipping costs (for me $114). So, after a lot of experimentation, I found that I could minimize shipping costs by ordering some components from the international warehouse, and some parts from the U.S.A. warehouse. Experiment with your ordering locations and try to get the lowest shipping price. I tried to come up with a universal strategy for this but the shipping charges vary a lot by location so try to come up with the best ordering strategy for yourself.

And then some of the parts are available from Amazon. You should not have any of the issues I just described with Amazon; your experience with Amazon should be great.

Now, on to the parts list.

Quanum Venture Quadcopter Parts

Reference
Number
ImagePartQuantityLink
1Quanum Venture Quadcopter Frame1HobbyKing
9171000502-0
2DJI Naza M Lite Flight Controller with GPS1HobbyKing
460000002-0
3Fat Shark Teleporter V3 Kit with (PilotHD Camera)1HobbyKing
253000025-0
4Turnigy Multistar Outrunner Motor4HobbyKing
9192000115-0
5Turnigy Multistar 20A ESC4HobbyKing
9351000007
63.5mm Bullet Connectors (20 pairs)1Amazon
714 AWG Silicone Wire1Amazon
88045 Propellers (set of four)1*HobbyKing
017000058
9Spektrum DX6i 6-Channel Radio System1Amazon
(transmitter only)
10Turnigy 2200mAh LiPo Battery1*HobbyKing
T2200.3S.20
11Turnigy Accucel-6 Battery Charger1HobbyKing
ACC6
1210CM Male to Male Servo Lead1HobbyKing
258000011
13Turnigy Multistar ESC Programming Card1HobbyKing
9351000006
14MicroSD Card1Amazon
15OrangeRX R615X Receiver1HobbyKing
R615

Aside from the supplies listed in the table, you will also need a few general-purpose parts that you can get anywhere, like a hardware store, many places online, or even a department store:

  • Zip-ties
  • 3M Command Strips
  • Thread Locking Compound

Parts Notes

1 The Quanum Venture quadcopter frame is a very inexpensive kit (~$40) but it is a very good product. It is actually a somewhat unique quadcopter frame. The frame consists of an inner structure made from interconnected aluminum tubes, and then a shell that encloses all of the electronic components. This is a nice change from most frames, which are just pieces of fiberboard stacked together. The frame looks great and is engineered extremely well for a kit in its price range. The Quanum Venture is purposefully designed for FPV flying. It's H shape means the front propellers will stay out of your camera's field of vision. There are many other reasons I really like this kit as well, which you will discover as we assemble it.

2 The Naza M Lite is DJI's entry level flight controller. Despite its position at the bottom of DJI's flight controller product line, it is still a superb system. It is extremely well designed, packed with features, and its "DJI Assistant" software used for programming is excellent. Among the features I like best is how easy the GPS functionality is to use.

3 The Fat Shark Teleporter V3 is a goggle-style FPV receiver. There are basically two types of FPV viewers, screen types and goggle types. Screen viewers are just small (about 7-inch diagonal) LCD screens, typically mounted in some kind of sun shade, used for viewing the FPV feed. Goggle type viewers, like the Teleporter V3, go, as you can probably guess, on your eyes. I chose the goggle type because it is more immersive. The PilotHD camera that comes with the Teleporter V3 is fantastic for FPV. The PilotHD is like two cameras in one; it is used to capture the video feed, and it also records video. This means you will not have to use one camera for the FPV feed and a second for recording.

4 The Turnigy Multistar motors are high-quality motors designed specifically for use on multirotor aircraft.

5 These Turnigy ESCs (electronic speed controllers), like the motors, are designed specifically for multirotor aircraft. HobbyKing often runs out of stock on these ECSs so you might have to select a different ESC for your quadcopter build. Pretty much any ESC will work, as long as it is 20A or higher.

6,7 These small bullet connectors and wire will be used to make various connection cables for hooking up various components.

8 These are the propellers for the quadcopter. The only thing to mention here is that, although you will only need one set, you might want to order a few extra sets. In a crash, the propellers are always the first thing to break so, if you do crash, you don't want to wait weeks for a new set of propellers to ship from Hong Kong. It is even fairly easy to break propellers while transporting your quadcopter. Since they only cost a few dollars, I think it is worth ordering a few extra sets of propellers to have on hand.

9 The DX6i is Spektrum's entry-level radio system. However, Spektrum is a top-quality brand in radio systems, and the DX6i is a great transmitter, especially for its low price ($~110). The DX6i is a 6-channel transmitter, which is sufficient for the Quanum Venture quadcopter. If you want to put a camera gimbal on your quadcopter at some point, you may want to upgrade to a 9-channel system, which will allow you to control the gimbal angles. The minimum requirement for the transmitter is that you must be able to adjust the end points of all the channels, especially the switches. This means you probably need a computerized transmitter. The DX6i also comes with a receiver which will be mounted inside the quadcopter.

10 This battery will power the quadcopter. Note that we also have a different battery for the Fat Shark goggles. You only need one battery for your quadcopter, but I actually like to have two so that I can swap them out in the field to extend my flight time. With a fully charged battery you should be able to fly anywhere from four to eight minutes, depending upon how aggressively you are flying; it is a bit like how a car's fuel economy depends on how aggressive the car is being driven.

11 This is the charger for the LiPo battery.

12 These servo cables are for attaching the radio receiver to the flight controller. The Naza M Lite does come with a pack of servo cables, however they are a bit too short to reach from the radio receiver mounting point to the flight controller.

13 This simple device is used to program the ESCs.

14 The PilotHD uses a microSD card for recording but it does not include one. Just go for the cheapest, lowest cost SD card you can get. A 4GB card will give us about an hour of recording time, which is plenty since a battery charge is only good for teight minutes of flying at the most.

15 If you haven't been working with multirotors very long, you might not realize that there is a bit of an ongoing argument in multirotor circles about this OrangeRX (HobbyKing) brand of radio receivers and genuine Spektrum AR610 receivers. Pilots argue a lot about which of these receivers is better and about their relative merits. On one hand, Spektrum receivers are, obviously, built specifically to work with Spektrum transmitters and many people maintain that genuine Spektrum receivers are higher-quality than OrangeRX receivers. The OrangeRX R615X is basically a knockoff of Spektrum's AR610 receiver. Although they are actually less like knockoffs than they used to be as today's OrangeRX receivers use different hardware than the Spektrum receivers. Now, if you search online, you will find extensive information about pilots testing Spektrum receivers against OrangeRX receivers. Many people have an automatic mistrust of cheap third-party product clones, but from all of the information I can find, the performance of these two receivers seems very similar. Furthermore, in terms of range at least, the contention is irrelevant here because both Spektrum and OrangeRX radio systems will easily achieve a 0.75 mile range, but the range of the Fat Shark FPV system is only about half a mile. My choice to go with the OrangeRX R615X is motivated by one factor: the OrangeRX R615X costs about $7 and the Spektrum AR610 costs about $50.

Total Cost

The total cost for all the parts for this project is (very) approximately $650. This does not include the price of shipping which, depending upon where you live and how you arrange ordering from the U.S. versus Hong Kong warehouses, can range from $50 to $100.

If you want to save some money, I think the best opportunity is keeping an eye on eBay. If you are patient, you can usually find some of the more expensive parts, like the flight controller, FPV system, and radio system, on eBay. I actually purchased my flight controller, radio transmitter, and FPV system on eBay and saved about $110, which it not too bad at all. However it did take me about three months of stalking eBay to get the parts, so it is really up to you.

Product Manuals

The more sophisticated products in this list come with product manuals. I decided to link to the product manuals in case you want to find information about the products that I do not include in this Instructable (it is already quite long so I do omit some information). Some of the manuals are better than others (you might as well not bother with the Quanum Venture manual), but some are pretty decent:

<p>Holy f***ing sh**, how long did it take to type all this? I took a few minutes only to scroll past, reading a few paragraphs and looking at the pictures. The orange headlines inbetween are a great idea, they improve reading by far and blend nicely into instructables' color pallet. Great job man!</p><p>Oh, and how did you do the grey &quot;- - -&quot; seperator lines?</p>
<p>Thank you, everyone, for all your kind words.</p><p>So to do the orange text styling, you need to know a little bit about editing HTML. When editing an Instructable, there are two tabs in the editing window. The default view is a &quot;visual&quot; type editor. You can also access the HTML code for the step by clicking the &quot;&lt;/&gt;&quot; button in the upper-left corner (I think this feature is only available to Pro members). To add a large, orange title with the &quot;- - -&quot; separator, use the following HTML markup: </p><p>&lt;p style=&quot;font-size: 1.25em;color: rgb(255,82,0);border-bottom: 2.0px dashed rgb(204,204,204); line-height: 1.5em; padding-bottom: 20.0px;&quot;&gt; [Type text here] &lt;/p&gt;</p>
<p>Hey Toglefritz - this instructable has given me a boatload of tips to <br>think about while I'm building my new drone. I can't wait to get <br>started. I see that a lot of people are complaining about the video <br>quality but maybe they dont understand that its shot on the FPV camera <br>itself which has to be 'poorer' quality than say a proper video <br>recorder because they need to transmit their video with as close to zero<br> lag as possible and higher quality means more lag.<br>I just thought it might be worth mentioning.<br>I<br> am putting together an article on everything you need to know to get <br>started with an FPV quadcopter http://flyfpv.info/fpv-quadcopter/ that <br>might be of use</p>
<p>Thanks for that info, I'll use it with my next ible.</p>
<p>I am very impressed with the amount of effort you put in to inform (educate) others. Thank you for your insights and valuable information. This is a great reference document.</p>
<p>That is probably the longest, the best documented 'ible I've ever seen! You should totally win every possible contest with that beauty :D</p><p>I'm not familiar with quadcopters at all, but thank you anyway for such great tutorial!</p>
How much in all did this cost
<p>The whole project costs (very) roughly <strong style="">$650 </strong>plus around $75 for all the shipping. You can save some money though by trying to get the more expensive parts (the flight controller, Fat Shark kit, and radio transmitter) off ebay.</p>
<p>Hey Toglefritz - this instructable has given me a boatload of tips to think about while I'm building my new drone. I can't wait to get started. I see that a lot of people are complaining about the video quality but maybe they dont understand that its shot on the FPV camera itself which has to be 'poorer' quality than say a proper video recorder because they need to transmit their video with as close to zero lag as possible and higher quality means more lag.<br>I just thought it might be worth mentioning.<br>I am putting together an article on everything you need to know to get started with an FPV quadcopter http://flyfpv.info/fpv-quadcopter/ that might be of use.</p>
It is really appreciable and for sure it is one of the best instructable right now......but<br> I am having some budget issues.<br>U think u can help me with a gud advice?<br>Or should I turn away frm these kind of projects. :(
Hello,<br>I was comparing the price of the Naza M Lite on Three websites -AliExpress,Amazon&amp; eBay.I found the price of it Rs.4950(~$69.4 i am Indian.)on AliExpress.Should I Go for it???Their prices on eBay and Amazon were Rs.13000(~$183).<br>
<p>Hello Toglefritz. I have a question about this project. I was attempting to bind the OrangeRX reciever to a FlySky FST6 transmitter and it does not seem to connect. However, when using the included reciever it connects the naza led indicator keeps flashing orange. Is there a way to connect the FST6 to the OrangeRX or will I have to get a Spektrum DX6i. If the latter, is there a place where i can find it for cheap? I am on a tight budget right now.</p>
<p>Hello, I want to make my own drone and follow this document. I don't find the Hextronik Power Distribution Board mentionned in this step, do you know where I can find it? or similar part ? Thanks</p>
<p>Well done. This is a very informative article. We are looking to do a similar project using a smart phone as a monitor. Thanks. http://thedroneguyz.com</p>
<p>I made the quadcopter, thanks for the detailed instructions!</p><p>I made some other choices though: I bought the Radiolink AT9, which is a 9 channel transmitter with built-in telemetry for pixhawk/APM flightcontrollers. I will use this in a next project. Really good value for money.</p><p>Secondly, I lifted the cover somewhat, so I can use a 5400 mah lipo.</p><p>The last alteration is that I used a cheap Eachine FPV camera + transmitter. The transmitter tends to get a little hot, so I added a small heatsink.</p><p>The only thing I will add when it arrives is this:</p><p><a href="http://www.ebay.nl/itm/301404173358?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT" rel="nofollow">http://www.ebay.nl/itm/301404173358?_trksid=p20603...</a></p>
<p>I made one it looked neat, but there is one problem, the plastic parts lack strength. Third flight with APM controler GPS and FPV gear she hovered nicely , it was landing that was her undoing ...landed on an uneven spot only a 2 inch dip but the rear hit first. ripping the internal frame free of the outer case.... ... tried a quick repair and on the fourth flight broke the front mounts .... fly it without external case ugly but flies well enough not my first crash but it was a bit aggravating , still I have been crashing flying things for 50 years </p>
<p>I have the Spektrum DX4C radio transmitter, and I was wondering if this transmitter will work, or if I will need to buy a programmible transmitter such as the DX6i.</p>
<p>Just as everyone else has commented - VERY impressive and detailed Instructable. Must have taken a fair while! I do need to point something out about the FAA Registration though...</p><p>You don't register the aircraft, you register yourself and then stick your registration number on all your UASs that meet the required criteria: <a href="https://www.faa.gov/uas/registration/" rel="nofollow">https://www.faa.gov/uas/registration/</a></p><p>HTH :)</p>
I think you mean to say altitude and not attitude, or you have a very sassy multirotor. But truly an awesome instructable, very well done.
<p>On step 46 my transmitter list &quot;Gyro&quot; here instead of Gear. Is there something I'm missing. When I hit F Mode/Gear from 0 to 1 I get no response on the DJI software.</p>
<p>you are on heli mode not acro</p>
<p>Super document! <br>How about using Walkera F12E and RX1202 as radio and FPV system? Is that to recommend?</p>
<p>Can you use a gopro for this? Because I really dont want to screw my gopro into this and not be able to get it out!!! furthermore, what do you think of using a rasberry pi as the brains of this? would probably program it with software from ArduPilot. Do you have any experience or advice for me staring out? Also not too interested in having the first person view however would like to make it follow me around! is this just coding or will i need an additional electronic tether? Thanks!!!</p><p>Sam</p>
<p>Always a great write-up. I've learned something from each of your multicopter projects, and this one is no exception. You're in the credits of my own quadcopter project: https://www.instructables.com/id/3D-Printed-Carbon-Fiber-QuadCopter/step15/Thank-You/ Thank you for writing such clear instructions and helping the rest of us learn what we're doing!</p>
<p>This has to be the most complete and informative 'ible' I have seen on building a Quad. Fantastic. Thanks for your hard work and obviously heaps of time spent to clearly explain all aspects of this build.</p>
<p>nice effort you put into this, well done. One thing is the poor video quality do most likely as I didn't see any note of balancing the props. Also any stabilization of the camera. I was hoping to see an instructable of a nice build from a poor mans prospective rather then buying a kit and assembly of it. I had build mine trial and error both quad and hexa that I settled on using fiberglass pcb board as the main chassis and 1/2 inch square craft wooden dowel for the motor arms. Thanks for the encouragement to get more into building these fun toys. </p>
<p>to glimps my quad home built look at the background picture on my facebook. </p>
<p>One of the best and most informative how-to's I've seen on this site. I would love to see a branch of this showing a build for a go-pro mount copter, instead of FPV. I'm not sure I could make the adaptation myself considering the level of build going on here. It's probably easy enough, but I didn't spend the hour I otherwise could have reading this word for word. (mainly because I don't have the money for it right now)</p>
<p>You have no idea how happy I am that you did not use the word &quot;Drone&quot; anywhere in your document.</p>
<p>Sorry, didn't get past probably a minute of the video before deciding that &quot;High Performance&quot; didn't align with the quality of the video. I then checked the comments and saw that people were pleased with the amount of information, which doing a quick scan I'd have to agree with. However, I was a little put off in the fact that you have affiliate links on your parts listing without calling this out to your readers. That's very bad form. So, all and all I'm not impressed as I now suspect your reasons for sharing are not in the community spirit but more of a means for generating income. Fine to mix the two but be up front about it.</p>
<p>Hey Jefflambbert, thanks very much for the heads up. You are absolutely correct that is is bad form to include affiliate links without identifying them as such. I did not intend to include affiliate links in this Instructable, I just forgot to remove them after copying and pasting the links from my multirotor blog, BlackTieAerial.com. Anyway, the affiliate links have been removed.</p>
<p>Overall, clear instructions and extremely well laid out . . .</p><p> . . . but I think your advise on the ESC programming is a touch flawed. While on any other airframe I'd recommend just as you have, Multirotors are brute-force, power hungry beasts. If the LVC *EVER* kicks in it will result in at best a forced landing and will more likely end in a crash. In the multirotor designed ROMs (SimonK and BLHeli) the LVC is either disabled by default or outright removed. </p><p>In non-multirotor ROMS (if you're using a programming card, it doesn't matter what the label said, it's a re-branded airplane ROM) changing to &quot;NiXX&quot; and setting the cutoff voltage to &quot;low&quot; will reduce the chance of the LVC ever kicking in and sacrifice the battery above crashing the entire airframe (putting both the expensive electronics *AND* the battery at risk). </p><p>You've gone through the trouble of putting together this instructable and done an EXCELLENT job, so the point that you didn't spec a BLHeli or SimonK ROM'ed ESC is a minor one(it helps, although I'll admit the Naza's ability to overcome slop in the control system will hide quite a bit of this), but overall, LVCs are trouble to multirotors. Flying with an LVC active is asking for a crash, but flying to an LVC's limit -- even when set to Lipo-high -- is overflying your battery. </p><p>As a part of installing the power module, you have installed a voltage monitor the Naza can read and react intelligently to so you NEVER hit the ESC's LVC trip points. The voltage tab in the advanced settings section (just 3 tabs over from the failsafe tab) is where you set the pack size (in cells) and the two cutoff voltages. the first warns you the second slowly raises the throttle midpoint to encourage you to land before the battery is too low for the Naza to control the descent. </p><p>Keep in mind, if any one of the ESC's LVCs does this for you (and a good chance it'll only be one), the control of it will be out of the Naza's hands and it likely won't be able to balance the craft for a level descent . . . so tune the LVC as low as it will let you (NiXX-Low), then set the internal voltage alarms. After that, it'll blink a warning as you get close to low, and then slowly force you to descend while it still has power to maintain control.</p><p>One last time so the point isn't missed: You've done a GREAT job here. Research this point if you disagree with me, since this is the ONLY thing in the 52 pages I've seen that's worth the time to correct :)</p>
<p>how can i make a quadcopter using six degrees of freedom and obstacle recognision?</p>
<p>great job</p>
Very in depth! Awesome job!
Very nice instructable and very in depth. I've always wanted to make a quadcopter. But for me it's unfortunatly too expensive.<br><br>Keep up the good work!

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Bio: Hello, my name is Toglefritz. That’s obviously not my real name; my real name is Scott, but on the Internet I use the nom ... More »
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