Mostly hand tools were used with the exception of a mitre saw to get the ends for the hinge mount nice and square. I also used a drill press for drilling the holes for the sliding motor rails so that they are parallel to each other, as well as the hole for the drive rod to ensure it was nicely perpendicular. Parts
- A decent hinge with very little play, I went with a solid brass 63mm one seeing as the plank width was 69mm.
- The main part of the tracker, 500mm pine 22m X 69mm.
- The camera mount, approx 300mm of 22mm X 44mm meranti (a hard wood, well harder than pine anyway)
- A brass 1/4" 20 modified machine screw for mounting the camera.
- M8 nut and bolt for mounting the cam mount to the main body.
- M6 rod ~ 90mm with wingnuts and washers for the tilt axis in the camera mount.
- M6 nut and bolt 50mm long for attaching the tracker to the tripod.
- 16 wood screws, 6 for the hinge and 10 for reinforcements in the camera mount.
- A 70mm X 50mm section of plastic cutting board for the corrective cam.
- A 230V AC synchronous 1 rpm motor.
- 2 x steel rods to fit the motor mounts, 4mm in this case.
- M6x1mm threaded rod 135mm long out of which I get a usable length of 90mm, @ 1mm pitch that translates to 90min
- M6 coupling nut to connect the motor shaft to the drive rod with split pins to fit.
- M6 Tee nut for the bottom board's drive rod.
- An existing sturdy mount like a camera tripod or a diy contraption to suit, bear in mind some tripods have a plastic pan tilt head assembly and wobble a fair amount.
Something to note with the drive rod, M6 is a nice middle size, M5 would have a smaller board length of 185mm hinge to drive rod distance and possibly very flimsy, M8 would be more robust but would need a hinge to drive rod distance of 285mm which might become very bulky.
Lastly, a camera is also a requirement, preferably a DSLR with remote in order to use the "bulb
" setting for long exposures. On my Nikon D70S I use an infrared remote because the camera wont allow bulb setting with the timer, it just overrides with 1/5 sec exposure.
That said, it might be theoretically possible to use a Canon PowerShot (point n shoot range) and load it with the CHDK software to utilise the intervalometer scripts.