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Build the BandBlinder - Stage lights on the cheap

Build the BandBlinder - Stage lights on the cheap
The goal of this project was to help out a friend's band by making a lighting kit for their shows that didn't cost the $150+ dollars that a normal light kit costs. It also helps out a lot when I record their concerts to make sure the lighting isn't too dim. The setup I wound up with has three dimmable color lights that can be clamped onto whatever stand you wish. You could easily expand out this setup to use however many lights you need though.
 
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Step 1Materials

The materials for this project can almost all be found at your local hardware store.

2x New Work (plastic) electrical gang boxes (the blue boxes your wall outlets are mounted into.)
3x Wall outlet dimmer switches (you can use the dial or slider type, I prefer sliders since you can control them with your foot more easily, but dial types are cheaper.)
3x Three prong wall outlets.
3x Clamp-held lamps
3x light bulbs (use plain old 60w incandecent lamps, compact flourecent lamps won't work well, the dimmers just make them flicker, not dim)
3x Par 38 gels (these are the color filters over the lights, you'll probably need to find a music or theatre store to get these.)
1x Three prong power cord (can be harvested from an old PC power cable or an old extension cord, the thicker the wire the better.)
2x short bolts
6x cover plates, one for each outlet and dimmer (i used the kind that snap together)
Several feet of electrical cable (having the solid-strand white-black-bare kind used in home wiring is probably best, though whatever thick guage wire you can use will work.)
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18 comments
May 22, 2012. 4:31 PMrozmusway says:
I'm building something like this right now, but I was hoping to also include a master dimmer that could control all three lights at once. Would it cause any sort of problem if I wire in a fourth dimmer that could control the other three?
Mar 8, 2011. 1:50 PMcclark-2 says:
Could you use like a dresser drawer or something?
Feb 23, 2011. 3:23 PMestevan086 says:
what's in the box?
Jan 1, 2011. 3:34 PMginamarina says:
I'm trying to learn the basics on how lighting works - even if I don't build these, thank you for helping me understand in basic terms! This would be perfect for a small acoustic setup too-
Oct 29, 2010. 5:20 AMwstlyguy says:
Its great to see that people are still doing this stuff! I never even thought of using those cheep clamp lights for this project. WOW. I built three light units like this a few years ago for a church production. I used four floodlight mountings, hardwired them all to two rotary dimmers and stuck a plug on the end. I have a basic understanding of electrical design from my BS in Architecture and I had some coaching from a mechanical engineer who served as set designer in his college's theatre program. My big change to your overall design here was that I put everything into wood boxes, painted to match the floor and angled to throw the light in the correct direction. My church continues to use them and I'm actually looking into building two more light boxes to hang from our sloped ceilings.
Oct 8, 2010. 1:22 PMjimofraytown says:
Built something quite similar to this in 1968. I used 600W rotary SCR's for the dimmers, and ganged the duplex boxes back to back in a 1X4 framed box. I hand cut phenolic cover plates with a drill and a coping saw. I used 16/3 awg solid strand household wire between the dimmers and the duplex outlets, and 16/3 awg stranded for my power cable. It was serviceable up to 2008 when one of the SCR's finally developed major issues.
Feb 13, 2010. 9:30 AMjrobertsharp says:
 I would like to see a photograph of how the wires are attached to each other. I know something about VERY BASIC hobby wiring, but it looks like some of your wires are joined in a "T" configuration, and I don't have any idea how to do that, especially with such stiff wire. I'm not sure if I'm reading the instructions correctly. 
Nov 18, 2007. 12:48 PMTumwatertechwhiz says:
I have a couple suggestions for this build coming from a professional DJ light show designer, (I love the DYI stuff just as much as the professional stuff.) First, I would spray paint the outside of the boxes and the covers black to help hide them. Second, rather than bolting the two gang boxes together, I would run 3 power chords out of the dimmer box to 3 separate outlet boxes, that way you can run the outlet boxes back behind equipment or walls or whatever and possibly elliminate the need for extension chords running to the lamps. Third, Maybe you could come up with a way to build the band blinker into the band blinder... if you do this, to get the best effects, I suggest putting 1 band blinker per outlet, that way each light will still blink to the music/sound but it each light will blink independently of the others. *Special note: When combining the band blinker with the band blinder, it would be best to put the blinker part before the dimmer switches, otherwise you could break the blinker circuit boards as stuff like that is not meant to be on a dimmer. Also, and FYI American DJ now makes something very similar the the band blinker with 4 different colars and it has a built in mic and flashes with preset patterns. You can find it on sale for only slightly more than I estimate the cost of materials to be for this build. Cool plan though, I've been thinking about how to build something like this for years, but was never able to come up with an idea, so I bought the professional equipment. Feel free to e-mail me with any questions.
Oct 7, 2007. 4:47 PMdouro20 says:
A better way to go would be to use halogen lighting, which has a much more stable color temperature but would require more ventilation.
May 17, 2007. 6:20 PMnathan42100 says:
Is this also sound sensitive?
May 14, 2007. 8:11 PMfuego316 says:
Awesome, for our underground music scene at collage we had a simeral system until the fire marshal found it and confiscated it. So keep on rocking and don't let the fire marshal see it.
May 13, 2007. 4:07 PMLasVegas says:
Good job. I'd have liked to see more pictures of the construction. The labeling of your schematic drawing should show Hot (or Live), Neutral and Ground. There is no "Positive" with AC current.

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