Build yourself a portable home - a mongolian yurt
introBuild yourself a portable home - a mongolian yurt
Yurt/Gher Construction 101 A guide to Building Yurts...or more
specifically, how I built mine! Based on Knowledge Gained from
"Doing it Myself", and reading about it on-line. I've now
built three yurts, for myself and friends, and we go camping in Luxury
in these a few times a year. If you like the outdoors, but you hate
having to crawl around in pokey little tents then this one's for you!
We sleep two of us in luxury in this tent, in a full queen-sized bed!
Of course, sleeping on the floor, like a plastic tent, you could
probably sleep 20 people, easily!. :-) We have dedicated hanging
space for our clothes so they don't crumple or anything, and lockable
boxes for our belongings (or a lock on the door works too!) When we
invite other camping-inclined friends over for a party in our tent, we
can confortably fit 15-20 people in, sitting around on cushions and
lounging on the bed and on the rugs on the floor... now that's what I
can a party tent! :-) If you like pictures, please be sure to have a
look at step 9 - it's got over 50 assembly photos on that step alone !
|

step 1Overview of the parts and process.!
I'm going to cut right to the chase, and assume you know the following (in principle): 1) What a yurt is, and what it's made from. 2) How all the components should look whe…

step 2Dimensions and background
Over all DImensions:
Tent Diameter: approx 15' ( 5 meters) across.
Tent Height: approx 10' (3 meters) in the centre, and 5'6" ( 1.6m) at the edges.
My Yurt Comp…

step 3Timber Components - the wall
How I decided on the size:Some designs I saw specified 1&1/2"x1/4" OR 1"x1" OR 1&1/5"x1/2" sizes. I figured that the smallest size would be lighter and would be strong eno…

step 4* Timber Components - the roof!
Main roof supports:
Cut up the roof supports from 90mmx35mm (just like everything else).
4x2400mm lengths, each cut down the middle makes the 8 primary supports.
2x2400m…

step 5 Metal Components - the roof hub
Roof Hub Options:
The whole purpose of the 'hub' is simply a way of connecting the centre of the roof all together
while also giving a centre 'vent' or 'port' for circu…

step 6Metal components - - bolts, pins, pegs.
The remaining metal components that need to be manufactured in some way or another are:
Metal Pins
- for pinning the doorframe to the wall lattice. these are just be…

step 7canvas components - the wall!
Buy a piece of canvas that's as long as your tent is round, including the door, plus a bit spare - perhaps 30cm( 1').
The simple version (my first method) :
I didn't h…

step 8canvas components - roof
Roof Canvas Construction:
Buy 16 metres of roof canvas at approx 6' wide, and cut/sew it as per the picture below.
Notice how there are two sections 1800(6') wide, thes…

step 9Assembly - putting it all together/up
The best way is to just give it a go and try putting it up. Expect the first few times you do it to take quite a while. You'll need two or 3 people, but no more. I can do…
| so how much did it cost you in total?
|
| Have you ever heard of anyone ripping down plywood to make the laths?
Might add a little to the cost, but seems like it could be more
structurally sound. Probably not as stiff as pine, so might consider
going a little thicker.
|
| Aug 22, 2009. 10:34 PMdavidbuzz (author)
says:
no. I haven't. I don't see the value, as I don't have sructural
issues at the moment, so it's overkill as far as I'm concerned.... and
the glue use in most plywoos is not waterproof or exterior rated, so
it's not going to last well in wet conditions either.
|
| Aug 6, 2009. 9:47 AMajn142
says:
I was wondering, could you construct the lattice out of some kind of
metal banding instead? if so, what kind would you reccomed, i don't have
much experience in building this kind of thing, although i find it very interesting
|
| I suppose you could, but there wouldn't be any real advantage - it would
be heavier, and more expensive, but structurally you wouldn't get that
much of a boost - the lattice is pretty strong.
I'd be concerned too, that I was making a giant lightning rod...
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| Aug 20, 2009. 7:49 AMajn142
says:
I was just thinking that metal might be a little more durable, I'm a boy
scout and I'd bet that somebody in my troop would manage to break it a
piece of it. As for lightning rod, that would depend on your
surroundings, but it's a very valid point. Thanks for the advice.
|
| I'm sure it would be more durable in regards to manhandling by troop
members (ex-boyscout here). The structure of the skeleton is made to
distribute a load - so if you press on any given point (simulating
wind), the whole structure flexes into a more aerodynamic shape - I'm
wondering if you used a more rigid framework, would you lose any of
that? (I honestly don't know - but food for thought). And then of
course, the added weight would make it more difficult to transport. I
think it might be better to have a few extra spars for repair, and
engineer it so you can easily remove a broken one.
Another thought is weather on metal - if you used metal, you'd want
something like aluminum - I'm thinking rust could be a problem. Aluminum
also has an advantage of being lightweight, and easy to work with.
I heard that some people have had success using bamboo as the framework
for a ger. Definitely worth a google.
Hey, if you work this out, definitely document it!
|
| Aug 12, 2009. 7:44 PMD.L.H.
says:
I like this and i find it really good for some uses in my campign trips
because my family is of decent size. Though the cost seems a bit much is
there a cheap comfortable material that i can make this out of?
|
| Aug 12, 2009. 11:39 PMdavidbuzz (author)
says:
$600 for a portable house.... How is that "expensive"? If you
want a "tent", go to K-Mart. Commercially these usually
cost over $5000.00
I suggest you build yourself one, and let us all know what it costs
you.
|
| Aug 13, 2009. 12:36 PMD.L.H.
says:
I will do as soon as I get the chance to and why I said it was kinda
expensive is because I'm really tapped for cash but, your right that is
really inexpensive and the idea and design is great.
|
| Apr 18, 2009. 10:16 AMhusker
says:
All said and done how much did this cost?
|
| Apr 18, 2009. 8:04 PMdavidbuzz (author)
says:
anywhere between $US400 and $US800 depending on options. I've built a
number (4) of them. how much it'll cost you depends on what you make it
from, how big you make it, and what facilities you have available.
|
| Would you consider selling me one?
|
| Jul 16, 2009. 11:21 AMsvfox69
says:
|
| Yowzers. That's a huge savings compared to the commercially-produced
yurts I've been looking into buying! Excellent job!
|
| Apr 23, 2009. 5:47 PMhusker
says:
Cool, thanks for responding
|
| How easy would it be to build one of these yurts with a doors on all 4
sides and link them together to have rooms and such?
|
| Hello, Quite a good plan. I did have some questions, though. BTW I have
Paul King's book and highly recommend it
1. What material do you recommend for the uni and khana laths? You used
a steel tono and Paul recommends oak. Do you think a 1/2 mortise would
be strong enough for a 1 in square? What do you use for your support
bands? What dimensions did you use on your door and how do you attach
your support bands?
Do you recommend bagana poles?
I am looking at a building a 5 m yurt for a study/workshop (anti-wife zone).
Does anyone have yurt experience in very hot and humid environments? I
live in Alabama.
Regards, BBurg
|
| hello! if it helps, i live in pensacola, fl and have built 3 yurts and
assisted on another, more planned... the gerr deals with heat and
humidity better than other tent styles i've made, since the smoke hole
can be opened and the sidewalls raised to create a flue effect similar
to that of a tepee...so far i've used recycled pine from construction
sites for everything, lathes, rafters, door frames, and
rings...personally i use 3/8" lathes for 5' walls and 1/2"
lathes for 7', tied together using clothesline to reduce weight, and
don't use support bands, just the steel cable on top of the khana...i
have some pictures on my myspace, myspace dot com/tinkercrafty
|
| Jan 6, 2009. 10:14 PMdavidbuzz (author)
says:
I recommend you read through the full instructable in detail, as all the
materials I used are specified, including type and dimensions. but to simplify:
lath/khana: I use a cheap localy available softwood. we call it 'pine'.
you can call it whatever you like.
tono/toono/roof ring: yes, I use steel, because it's convenient and
portable, as I have welding skills. I've never seen anyone else do it
my way. If you can't weld and use a grinder, use wood. and follow
someone else's plans for this part. I can't comment about any sort
of joint (like mortice or 1/2 mortice) as I dont use them at all .
Please feel free to try whatever joint you think is reasonable and let
us know how it goes.
"support bands": I use a thin (5mm) synthetic woven rope/cord
known locally as "venetian blind cord", but any durable device
that can take a tension load will do. Many people use a long
4"(10cm) wide band of heavy canvas fabric, as it holds a tension
load easily too.
door dimensions: already supplied in instructable, but 5'6" tall
( the height of my wall) , and as wide as two diagonal sections of
lattice ( maths will tell you this ).
support band connections: ( apart from the fact that I use rope/cord
) , I use a technique called "tying a knot in the rope around the
door frame". Ie, this is no special technique.
"bagana pole"( also known as a centre pole ) : I have never
used them, and all 4 yert's I've constructed were in the 4.2 to 5m
diameter size. I find that not having a centre pole significantly
increases the "usable space" inside the yurt, so would
recommend agains it unless you are going larger than 5 or 6 m across.
WHere I live IS hot and humid. very. ( The east coast of Australia
is Tropical or Sub-tropical.) You WILL want plenty of
cross-ventilation during daylight hours, either by lifting parts of the
wallcoverings to allow air to enter at floor level and escape through
the roof vent, or by adding closable windows for a similar effect.
Good luck!
|
| I went by the local screw and bolt place and decided to try to use
3" long 1/4" diameter 1045 steel rod for the uni/tono joints.
Not in keeping with the all-wood frame, but it won't strain my carpentry
skills. I have decided to try your cutting fixture -- thought it might
be dangerous, but on second thoughts, no.
Just for the other readers, there is a guy in Switzerland with a very
nice planning site:
http://simplydifferently.org/Yurt_Notes?page=1
Thanks for the prompt reply and enjoy the Summer while it lasts! BBurg
|
| I have been blogging my planning. Readers might have an interest in
looking at what I have been doing.
wjlblacksburg.blogspot.com
|
| amazing job david! ive been planning on building one for quite a while
now. your instructable is both inspirational and informative, i will now
get off my butt and make one too. ive also been thinking about building
one in a tree, i think the light weight would lend itself to treehouses
well . thanks again!
|
| David,
This is the best instuctable I have ever seen.
We have a Satellite channel here in the States called DIY and there is
a fellow named "Carl Champley" that does a show called
"wasted spaces" where he shows how to optimize unuseed space
in homes, perhaps one of the best shows on DIY. He is from Australia as well.
This concept is really great as here in USA we pay property taxes on
buildings on our property. This technically qualifies as a
"tent" therefore would not be subject to tax as it is portable.
Also, the structure seems sound enough to leave up all year. What is
your experience with long duration setup? Have you ever built one of
these using insect screen as the outer covering? Seems to me that this
could be a great "summer room" in areas with mosquitos or
other "beasties" that bother people in summer while even
providing privacy due to the slats as "visual diffusers".
This is a really great instructable.
Also, you could have one of these rolled up and really to go in case of
emergency (part of a 72 hour kit), and either lash it to the top of the
car, back of the truck, or if necessary hand carry to safe area
Our Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) should look into this
design for emergency shelters.
The technique used kinda sorta reminds me of a "bucky ball"
geodesic structure in that it is a collabsible spaceframe design, but I
like this better as the individual joint strength does not seem to have
the effect of compromising structural integrity if a single joint
fails.. I am sure a cascade failure could occur, but using the
handymans secret weapon (duct tape) this could no doubt be repaired quickly.
David, once again I say this is the greatest instructable ever.
I think I could get another "much larger" workshop out of
this. Perhaps a couple of them.
My workshop now is an old "summer kitchen" so I work on
larger things outside, much to the chagrrin of my wife (It looks pretty
messy). This would give me a one or more nice "shop's" that
would be movable to wherever I needed to.
Might be a good way to build cool greenhouse as well, ever tried that?
Great job on the instructable.
BTW - I am glad that "The Aussies" are our best / favorite
and most importantly "Dependable" allies! We can always count
on our Australian friends to watch our back, be innovative, and ready
partners in innovation.
Best Regards,
Jim
Jim
|
| Jun 14, 2009. 8:06 PMdavidbuzz (author)
says:
Hi Jim,<br/>thanks for your feedback! It's great to hear you like
it.<br/><br/>With regard to leaving the structure up
"all year round", I'd suggest that you'll want to create a
better flooring, to protect the structure from nasties like
mould,mildew,termites,borers,grubs, etc, or make the structure from
something non-organic ( like aluminium or uv-safe plastic ). Creating
a "raised" floor from stumps and wood beams with a plywood
surface has the added benefit of allowing you to level the floor easily
if your ground isnt. <br/>I'd also suggest that you don't skimp
on the canvas/fabric you use, as it's going to take a lot of sunlight
and UV, and that can destroy the wrong product very
quickly.<br/><br/>A modern variation of the Yurt has already
gained traction as an "emergency shelter" - you should google
"HexaYurt" for more details on this modern twist. (it's not as
portable though, but much quicker to create).
<br/><br/>Bucky-balls - yes, I remember as a kid, I used to
climb on climbing-gyms that were shaped out of these ( hemisphere )..
<br/><br/>The yurt is designed so that *theoretically* you
could break every single wall timber once, and the structure will still
be sound ( if you choose where they are broken that
is).<br/><br/>As for your workshop/greenhouse/kitchen, may I
suggest that you give it a go, and if you feel inspired, put up an
instructable about your experience. :-)<br/><br/>Thanks!<br/>David.<br/>
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| Apr 12, 2009. 11:48 AMcheegi
says:
hehe, :) I am from Mongolia. we make a "gerr" yurt without any
of iron nail or metal. We use all nature products like, wood, wool and
leather. And others wood for main yurt's rafter, wool for yurt's outside
cover felt and ropes, leather rope for locking to wall's rafter. Here
are many gerr yurts in countryside of Mongolia. Every family use ger.
But not in the city.
|
| Who needs society? I say we all move to Mongolia, and live together, in
a society of those who have rejected all society! Who is with me??
|
| Canvas supplier - http://textilesforyou.com/
They have 12# (and others) duck canvas in bulk, for instance:
72" #12 Canvas Duck, 100 yds. @ $379
You'll need to waterproof it though.
BBurg
If there is cheaper bulk canvas that you can find, let me know!
|
| This is so darn cool I can't stand it! I've seen yurts on TV &
wondered how they do it. I have a real hankering for an extra space to
work in... hadn't thought of this. Thank you for all your valuable work
and great presentation, David!
|
| EXTRA SPACE
now thats an idea I can run with. I've got half the yard equipment
in my garage but this is quite a solution.
|
| were did u get the canvas and how much was it. could i use somthin
else?other than that thats cool!!!!!!!!!!
|
| Feb 23, 2008. 6:06 PMdvt
says:
you coul find and recycle giant vinyl from advertising billboards, in
australia they use vinyl banner material in sizes 20mts x 5-8mts,printed
on one side and not usually reused after promotion is finished. Try
vinyl banner manufacturers.
|
| Oct 17, 2008. 9:32 PMjottoh
says:
Choose your banner signs carefully! I have found that even the best
quality banners look good for a year, pretty bad after 2 years and
disintegrate at about 3 years. And what a mess they make with all the
leaking and strands hanging down etc. Also, If the banner
printing/message is turned outward of the structure, you grow weary of
the pattern.design/message. If turned inward, you can line the
yurt/ger/structure when you insulate to hide the darn advertising. And
you will want insulation if for nothing more than to reduce
condensation. High quality canvas would be so much better,especially if
you research all the types of canvas, purchase the correct canvas and
then install correctly to eliminate any pooling or wet spots around the
lower edge. I recommend your research and study everything about yurts
before building one. Find a state park that offers overnight yurts or
visit an existing yurt to see if you like the feel it offers.
|
| Feb 23, 2008. 4:35 AMdavidbuzz (author)
says:
From a canvas supplier. Please check your local phone book under
"canvas". Yes you can use other things. please read through
the comments below for a number of other tips on what you might use.
|
| I live in one of these now, i found the stuff to build it with.
|
| Wow! This is a really amazing instructable! Well done - it looks great! :)
|
| hi david,
I'm slightly confused about the roof. I built this model with 70 slats,
and it has 32 x's, but if I make a metal hub with 16 evenly spaced
prongs- won't some of those slats end up over the door frame and not in
the x's? don't I need roof slats over the door?
and is the metal smoke ring 1 and 1/2 feet in diameter or in radius?
(thanks! this is totally great!)
|
| Jul 24, 2008. 3:07 PMDim-1
says:
Hey that could be a fun yurt for a small animal!
|
| Apr 10, 2008. 12:22 AMdavidbuzz (author)
says:
you've come to exactly the same error/concern that I had when I built my
first yurt, but I didn't have the sense to do it in scale-model first.
the problem is that I said "approximately 70", not exactly 70,
and that was to allow for weak timbers with faults/breakage. The
exact number needed if the circle had no door is actually 64 (a multiple
of 16, which is the number of roof timbers), but after you take the door
into account as being the same width as "two diamonds", you
are down to 62 lengths. If you do that, then you will have one roof
timber over the door frame, which is perfectly acceptable, and is how I
do it.
So, if the world was a perfect place, you'd use 62 slats, not 70.
but slats break, and you will need extras around the door because you
have to cut them slightly-past the intersection so the intersection
can still bolt/pin together through the point where it meets the door
frame. make sense? if not, pls let me know.
|
| Jul 19, 2008. 7:26 PMdavidbuzz (author)
says:
The outer covers are heavy fabric, and just fold up. The timber lattice
also "folds up" in a scissor action. THe resultant bundle of
timbers is about 1ft across, and 8ft long, and can be put on a car
roof-rack, or in a trailer, wagon, or utility vehicle.
Buzz.
|
| Tyvek is actually designed to be a "highly permeable" thermal
barrier, so it's designed specifically to let water vapor through (thus
is not really waterproof), and to NOT let heat through (that's what the
foil on one side is for). The reality is that it's good at shedding
water, but some of it WILL come though (much like untreated canvas ).
It's NOT UV rated though, and I believe the specifications say that it
should not be used as a weathersheild on buildings for more than 60
days, so it has no long term durability.
Of course, it IS cheap, and it's as ight as paper, so it's got a lot of
possibilities, even if it's not loing to last forever.
Buzz.
|
| Nov 19, 2007. 1:54 PMshooby
says:
Definitely one of the top Instructables. I don't think many people will
use it, because of its costs, time required, etc., excellent description
and construction however. The expandable hatched wall of the yurt is a
brilliant construction idea. I'd look into constructing a portable
structure using that type of wall, only one that can be carried by one
man for a few hours on easy terrain, for a getaway with a structure more
permanent than a tent.
|
| What an incredible Instructible! I am impressed at all the work you did
to make your Yurt not only attractive and easy to assemble, but safe,
sturdy and with an eye toward the Long Term. You didn't think
'disposable,' but rather 'something for my grandchildren to inherit.'
I'd love to have one someday, and if I were ever to have one built, it
would be using your incredible directions. Thank you! P.S.: $700 is
dirt cheap for a 'building' of any kind, and your Yurt needs to be
thought of as a moveable building, because it's not going anywhere. It
has only a few common features with a tent, mostly that is is made of
canvas and that it is moveable.
|
| Nov 19, 2007. 4:46 PMdavidbuzz (author)
says:
The thing I like about this is that the costs are easily controllable by
the individual builder. The entire finished framework is actually the
cheapest part (under AU$200,or US$160), and the canvas is the
"expensive" part. The canvas can be replaced with any
water-proof (or mostly waterproof) material you like. Making the roof
out of that cheak blue "tarp" is 100% ok, and waterproof, just
bright blue (it's a nasty colour in my opinion). Making the walls out
of even cheaper fabric (like cotton drill), and applying a waterproofing
agent yourself is a cheap option that I have used too.
The total price for a canvas-less yurt would be under $400 if done right!
|
| Nov 19, 2007. 4:51 PMdavidbuzz (author)
says:
|
| Anyone looking for really cheap tarps could try a local truss factory
or lumber yard. They usually receive bundles of lumber wrapped in poly
tarps (at least in my area), for protection during shipping. You could
probably obtain a whole bunch, just for the asking.
They are usually black on one side and white on the other, the white
side emblazoned with the logo of the timber company. How this might
fit into one's particular aesthetic, I don't know. Occasionally one
might find lovely tan tarps, that might blend in nicely on the steppe...
I usually use my tarpaulins black side up, on my garden to kill
quackgrass. They last a year or so, without significant degradation.
The white business side might last longer, probably having some degree
of U.V. inhibition, or at least more reflectivity.
A further caveat: the tarps will probably have various holes in them,
but overlapping should solve that issue.
In summary, the extra work and lack of longevity of this material
might override the low cost, but it might be useful for a temporary or
practice yurt, before one decides to splurge on canvas.
|
| Nov 20, 2007. 7:50 AMuguy
says:
From one to another, I really like your user name.
|
| Thanks. It is, however, kind of a pain if you make a boo-boo while
logging in, and don't notice it, and then you gotta type the whole thing
in again, all the while being only a 4-finger (and occasional thumb)
hunter and pecker.
|