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Build yourself a portable home - a mongolian yurt

intro
 

introBuild yourself a portable home - a mongolian yurt

Yurt/Gher Construction 101 A guide to Building Yurts...or more specifically, how I built mine! Based on Knowledge Gained from "Doing it Myself", and reading about it on-line. I've now built three yurts, for myself and friends, and we go camping in Luxury in these a few times a year. If you like the outdoors, but you hate having to crawl around in pokey little tents then this one's for you! We sleep two of us in luxury in this tent, in a full queen-sized bed! Of course, sleeping on the floor, like a plastic tent, you could probably sleep 20 people, easily!. :-) We have dedicated hanging space for our clothes so they don't crumple or anything, and lockable boxes for our belongings (or a lock on the door works too!) When we invite other camping-inclined friends over for a party in our tent, we can confortably fit 15-20 people in, sitting around on cushions and lounging on the bed and on the rugs on the floor... now that's what I can a party tent! :-) If you like pictures, please be sure to have a look at step 9 - it's got over 50 assembly photos on that step alone !
Build yourself a portable home - a mongolian yurt
yurt.jpg61- fitted roof canvas - outside view.jpg
 
 

step 1Overview of the parts and process.!

I'm going to cut right to the chase, and assume you know the following (in principle): 1) What a yurt is, and what it's made from. 2) How all the components should look whe…


step 2Dimensions and background

Over all DImensions: Tent Diameter: approx 15' ( 5 meters) across. Tent Height: approx 10' (3 meters) in the centre, and 5'6" ( 1.6m) at the edges. My Yurt Comp…


step 3Timber Components - the wall

How I decided on the size:Some designs I saw specified 1&1/2"x1/4" OR 1"x1" OR 1&1/5"x1/2" sizes. I figured that the smallest size would be lighter and would be strong eno…


step 4* Timber Components - the roof!

Main roof supports: Cut up the roof supports from 90mmx35mm (just like everything else). 4x2400mm lengths, each cut down the middle makes the 8 primary supports. 2x2400m…


step 5 Metal Components - the roof hub

Roof Hub Options: The whole purpose of the 'hub' is simply a way of connecting the centre of the roof all together while also giving a centre 'vent' or 'port' for circu…


step 6Metal components - - bolts, pins, pegs.

The remaining metal components that need to be manufactured in some way or another are: Metal Pins - for pinning the doorframe to the wall lattice. these are just be…


step 7canvas components - the wall!

Buy a piece of canvas that's as long as your tent is round, including the door, plus a bit spare - perhaps 30cm( 1'). The simple version (my first method) : I didn't h…


step 8canvas components - roof

Roof Canvas Construction: Buy 16 metres of roof canvas at approx 6' wide, and cut/sew it as per the picture below. Notice how there are two sections 1800(6') wide, thes…


step 9Assembly - putting it all together/up

The best way is to just give it a go and try putting it up. Expect the first few times you do it to take quite a while. You'll need two or 3 people, but no more. I can do…


139 comments
1-50 of 139
Sep 16, 2009. 7:29 PMknoxville says:
so how much did it cost you in total?
Aug 21, 2009. 3:21 PMShadwfax says:
Have you ever heard of anyone ripping down plywood to make the laths? Might add a little to the cost, but seems like it could be more structurally sound. Probably not as stiff as pine, so might consider going a little thicker.
Aug 6, 2009. 9:47 AMajn142 says:
I was wondering, could you construct the lattice out of some kind of metal banding instead? if so, what kind would you reccomed, i don't have much experience in building this kind of thing, although i find it very interesting
Aug 9, 2009. 7:36 PMskipernicus says:
I suppose you could, but there wouldn't be any real advantage - it would be heavier, and more expensive, but structurally you wouldn't get that much of a boost - the lattice is pretty strong.

I'd be concerned too, that I was making a giant lightning rod...
Aug 20, 2009. 7:49 AMajn142 says:
I was just thinking that metal might be a little more durable, I'm a boy scout and I'd bet that somebody in my troop would manage to break it a piece of it. As for lightning rod, that would depend on your surroundings, but it's a very valid point. Thanks for the advice.
Aug 20, 2009. 8:37 AMskipernicus says:
I'm sure it would be more durable in regards to manhandling by troop members (ex-boyscout here). The structure of the skeleton is made to distribute a load - so if you press on any given point (simulating wind), the whole structure flexes into a more aerodynamic shape - I'm wondering if you used a more rigid framework, would you lose any of that? (I honestly don't know - but food for thought). And then of course, the added weight would make it more difficult to transport. I think it might be better to have a few extra spars for repair, and engineer it so you can easily remove a broken one.

Another thought is weather on metal - if you used metal, you'd want something like aluminum - I'm thinking rust could be a problem. Aluminum also has an advantage of being lightweight, and easy to work with.

I heard that some people have had success using bamboo as the framework for a ger. Definitely worth a google.

Hey, if you work this out, definitely document it!
Aug 12, 2009. 7:44 PMD.L.H. says:
I like this and i find it really good for some uses in my campign trips because my family is of decent size. Though the cost seems a bit much is there a cheap comfortable material that i can make this out of?
Aug 13, 2009. 12:36 PMD.L.H. says:
I will do as soon as I get the chance to and why I said it was kinda expensive is because I'm really tapped for cash but, your right that is really inexpensive and the idea and design is great.
Apr 18, 2009. 10:16 AMhusker says:
All said and done how much did this cost?
Aug 1, 2009. 7:11 AMkibbler says:
Would you consider selling me one?
Jul 16, 2009. 11:21 AMsvfox69 says:
We can move the foreclosed people in California into these.

Steve
http://scrabblecheat.com

Jul 14, 2009. 7:29 PM{tauney} says:
Yowzers. That's a huge savings compared to the commercially-produced yurts I've been looking into buying! Excellent job!
Apr 23, 2009. 5:47 PMhusker says:
Cool, thanks for responding
Jul 17, 2009. 2:48 PMKulawend says:
How easy would it be to build one of these yurts with a doors on all 4 sides and link them together to have rooms and such?
Jan 6, 2009. 5:57 PMblacksburg says:
Hello, Quite a good plan. I did have some questions, though. BTW I have Paul King's book and highly recommend it
1. What material do you recommend for the uni and khana laths? You used a steel tono and Paul recommends oak. Do you think a 1/2 mortise would be strong enough for a 1 in square? What do you use for your support bands? What dimensions did you use on your door and how do you attach your support bands?
Do you recommend bagana poles?

I am looking at a building a 5 m yurt for a study/workshop (anti-wife zone).

Does anyone have yurt experience in very hot and humid environments? I live in Alabama.

Regards, BBurg
Jul 15, 2009. 5:40 PMtinkercrafty says:
hello! if it helps, i live in pensacola, fl and have built 3 yurts and assisted on another, more planned... the gerr deals with heat and humidity better than other tent styles i've made, since the smoke hole can be opened and the sidewalls raised to create a flue effect similar to that of a tepee...so far i've used recycled pine from construction sites for everything, lathes, rafters, door frames, and rings...personally i use 3/8" lathes for 5' walls and 1/2" lathes for 7', tied together using clothesline to reduce weight, and don't use support bands, just the steel cable on top of the khana...i have some pictures on my myspace, myspace dot com/tinkercrafty
Jan 7, 2009. 3:38 PMblacksburg says:
I went by the local screw and bolt place and decided to try to use 3" long 1/4" diameter 1045 steel rod for the uni/tono joints. Not in keeping with the all-wood frame, but it won't strain my carpentry skills. I have decided to try your cutting fixture -- thought it might be dangerous, but on second thoughts, no.

Just for the other readers, there is a guy in Switzerland with a very nice planning site:
http://simplydifferently.org/Yurt_Notes?page=1

Thanks for the prompt reply and enjoy the Summer while it lasts! BBurg

Feb 3, 2009. 5:42 PMblacksburg says:
I have been blogging my planning. Readers might have an interest in looking at what I have been doing.

wjlblacksburg.blogspot.com
Jul 14, 2009. 3:44 PMvernsolo says:
amazing job david! ive been planning on building one for quite a while now. your instructable is both inspirational and informative, i will now get off my butt and make one too. ive also been thinking about building one in a tree, i think the light weight would lend itself to treehouses well . thanks again!
Jun 14, 2009. 4:17 AMProfessorJWN says:
David,

This is the best instuctable I have ever seen.

We have a Satellite channel here in the States called DIY and there is a fellow named "Carl Champley" that does a show called "wasted spaces" where he shows how to optimize unuseed space in homes, perhaps one of the best shows on DIY. He is from Australia as well.

This concept is really great as here in USA we pay property taxes on buildings on our property. This technically qualifies as a "tent" therefore would not be subject to tax as it is portable.

Also, the structure seems sound enough to leave up all year. What is your experience with long duration setup? Have you ever built one of these using insect screen as the outer covering? Seems to me that this could be a great "summer room" in areas with mosquitos or other "beasties" that bother people in summer while even providing privacy due to the slats as "visual diffusers".

This is a really great instructable.

Also, you could have one of these rolled up and really to go in case of emergency (part of a 72 hour kit), and either lash it to the top of the car, back of the truck, or if necessary hand carry to safe area

Our Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) should look into this design for emergency shelters.

The technique used kinda sorta reminds me of a "bucky ball" geodesic structure in that it is a collabsible spaceframe design, but I like this better as the individual joint strength does not seem to have the effect of compromising structural integrity if a single joint fails.. I am sure a cascade failure could occur, but using the handymans secret weapon (duct tape) this could no doubt be repaired quickly.

David, once again I say this is the greatest instructable ever.

I think I could get another "much larger" workshop out of this. Perhaps a couple of them.

My workshop now is an old "summer kitchen" so I work on larger things outside, much to the chagrrin of my wife (It looks pretty messy). This would give me a one or more nice "shop's" that would be movable to wherever I needed to.

Might be a good way to build cool greenhouse as well, ever tried that?

Great job on the instructable.

BTW - I am glad that "The Aussies" are our best / favorite and most importantly "Dependable" allies! We can always count on our Australian friends to watch our back, be innovative, and ready partners in innovation.

Best Regards,

Jim

Jim
Apr 12, 2009. 11:48 AMcheegi says:
hehe, :) I am from Mongolia. we make a "gerr" yurt without any of iron nail or metal. We use all nature products like, wood, wool and leather. And others wood for main yurt's rafter, wool for yurt's outside cover felt and ropes, leather rope for locking to wall's rafter. Here are many gerr yurts in countryside of Mongolia. Every family use ger. But not in the city.
Apr 1, 2009. 6:35 PMPryo Chain says:
Who needs society? I say we all move to Mongolia, and live together, in a society of those who have rejected all society! Who is with me??
Jan 6, 2009. 6:01 PMblacksburg says:
Canvas supplier - http://textilesforyou.com/
They have 12# (and others) duck canvas in bulk, for instance:
72" #12 Canvas Duck, 100 yds. @ $379
You'll need to waterproof it though.
BBurg

If there is cheaper bulk canvas that you can find, let me know!

Jul 25, 2008. 8:39 AMkansas kate says:
This is so darn cool I can't stand it! I've seen yurts on TV & wondered how they do it. I have a real hankering for an extra space to work in... hadn't thought of this. Thank you for all your valuable work and great presentation, David!
Dec 18, 2008. 3:18 PMden8246 says:
EXTRA SPACE

now thats an idea I can run with. I've got half the yard equipment in my garage but this is quite a solution.
Feb 22, 2008. 3:35 AMlil jon168 says:
were did u get the canvas and how much was it. could i use somthin else?other than that thats cool!!!!!!!!!!
Feb 23, 2008. 6:06 PMdvt says:
you coul find and recycle giant vinyl from advertising billboards, in australia they use vinyl banner material in sizes 20mts x 5-8mts,printed on one side and not usually reused after promotion is finished. Try vinyl banner manufacturers.
Oct 17, 2008. 9:32 PMjottoh says:
Choose your banner signs carefully! I have found that even the best quality banners look good for a year, pretty bad after 2 years and disintegrate at about 3 years. And what a mess they make with all the leaking and strands hanging down etc. Also, If the banner printing/message is turned outward of the structure, you grow weary of the pattern.design/message. If turned inward, you can line the yurt/ger/structure when you insulate to hide the darn advertising. And you will want insulation if for nothing more than to reduce condensation. High quality canvas would be so much better,especially if you research all the types of canvas, purchase the correct canvas and then install correctly to eliminate any pooling or wet spots around the lower edge. I recommend your research and study everything about yurts before building one. Find a state park that offers overnight yurts or visit an existing yurt to see if you like the feel it offers.
Aug 22, 2008. 12:56 AMFat Bagel says:
I live in one of these now, i found the stuff to build it with.
Jul 28, 2008. 6:22 PMlouie_gee_gee says:
Wow! This is a really amazing instructable! Well done - it looks great! :)
Apr 9, 2008. 9:00 PMsehartwick says:
hi david,

I'm slightly confused about the roof. I built this model with 70 slats, and it has 32 x's, but if I make a metal hub with 16 evenly spaced prongs- won't some of those slats end up over the door frame and not in the x's? don't I need roof slats over the door?

and is the metal smoke ring 1 and 1/2 feet in diameter or in radius?

(thanks! this is totally great!)
yurt model.jpg
Jul 24, 2008. 3:07 PMDim-1 says:
Hey that could be a fun yurt for a small animal!
Jul 19, 2008. 12:17 PMGorillazMiko says:
How is it portable?
Jul 6, 2008. 11:59 AMtyler_durden says:
If you want a light weight covering material try tyvek.
http://www2.dupont.com/Tyvek_Construction/en_US/products/residential/products/thermawrap.html
It's pretty cheap stuff, light weight, durable, waterproof.

Nov 19, 2007. 1:54 PMshooby says:
Definitely one of the top Instructables. I don't think many people will use it, because of its costs, time required, etc., excellent description and construction however. The expandable hatched wall of the yurt is a brilliant construction idea. I'd look into constructing a portable structure using that type of wall, only one that can be carried by one man for a few hours on easy terrain, for a getaway with a structure more permanent than a tent.
Jul 3, 2008. 11:18 AMSlothOnSpeed says:
What an incredible Instructible! I am impressed at all the work you did to make your Yurt not only attractive and easy to assemble, but safe, sturdy and with an eye toward the Long Term. You didn't think 'disposable,' but rather 'something for my grandchildren to inherit.' I'd love to have one someday, and if I were ever to have one built, it would be using your incredible directions. Thank you! P.S.: $700 is dirt cheap for a 'building' of any kind, and your Yurt needs to be thought of as a moveable building, because it's not going anywhere. It has only a few common features with a tent, mostly that is is made of canvas and that it is moveable.
Nov 20, 2007. 6:43 AMincorrigible packrat says:
Anyone looking for really cheap tarps could try a local truss factory or lumber yard. They usually receive bundles of lumber wrapped in poly tarps (at least in my area), for protection during shipping. You could probably obtain a whole bunch, just for the asking.
They are usually black on one side and white on the other, the white side emblazoned with the logo of the timber company. How this might fit into one's particular aesthetic, I don't know. Occasionally one might find lovely tan tarps, that might blend in nicely on the steppe...
I usually use my tarpaulins black side up, on my garden to kill quackgrass. They last a year or so, without significant degradation. The white business side might last longer, probably having some degree of U.V. inhibition, or at least more reflectivity.
A further caveat: the tarps will probably have various holes in them, but overlapping should solve that issue.
In summary, the extra work and lack of longevity of this material might override the low cost, but it might be useful for a temporary or practice yurt, before one decides to splurge on canvas.
Nov 20, 2007. 7:50 AMuguy says:
From one to another, I really like your user name.
Nov 23, 2007. 3:30 PMincorrigible packrat says:
Thanks. It is, however, kind of a pain if you make a boo-boo while logging in, and don't notice it, and then you gotta type the whole thing in again, all the while being only a 4-finger (and occasional thumb) hunter and pecker.
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