Building a Medieval Gauntlet!
I've been getting a few comments along the lines of "this isn't real armor" so...
WARNING THIS IS NOT COMBAT READY ARMOR. THIS IS NOT MEANT FOR PROTECTION. THIS IS A COOL LOOKING COSTUME PIECE/ PROP. WHILE YES IT IS TOUGHER THAN YOUR SKIN OR A T-SHIRT, IT WONT STOP A SWORD/ARROW/BULLET/KNIFE/ WHATEVER. SO BUILD IT, SHOW IT TO YOUR FRIENDS, DON'T BRING IT TO YOUR NEIGHBORHOOD GANG FIGHT.
Using Environmentally friendly Stuff!. So that you can save the environment by dressing up like pre-industrial revolution people!!!
Or more realistically, building an awesome costume piece.
I'm building a medieval Knight's costume for Halloween this year, and I've found instructables for quite a few pieces, but I have not found any for armored gauntlets. A short warning, I tend to be a little long winded in my instructions. While it might cause some people to "too long; didn't read", I'm just writing out all the tips and tricks I've come across while building this project. If you guys have any suggestions, please message me!
Notice, this instructable is NOT DIFFICULT. It requires little or no previous skills, besides reading I guess...although I doubt that you've gotten this far without that skill. I is however TIME CONSUMING. It'll take an entire week-end or about 20 -30 hours depending on how detailed / careful you are.
There are several ways to build a gauntlet, but this way is a really simple way, that doesn't require too much hardware, and is relatively cheap, any decent gauntlet will cost over $400.
micromuffin Pointed out that think geek has some decent ones for $60USD.
This Instructables is also environmentally friendly because it doesn't require the use of power tools!!! Although they help with certain parts :).
Step 1: Required Materials
-Some sort of sheet metal-
I used galvanized steel ducting, for a greener alternative you can use tin cans. Pop cans will work, but they're a little thin, and might tear if you're rough with your gloves. The sheet metal can be salvaged from many places, if you contact a ducting company, you may be able to pickup some scraps. I bought a sheet of ducting for $5 @ homedepot. You can really use any sheet material that can bend. You could use bristol board to practice, but It would be a waste of rivets to attach bristol board. If you want to use bristol board, swap out the rivets with staples, or hot glue.
-Rivets - I used pop-rivets or tube rivets, they're available @ any hardware store for relatively cheap, they're more expensive than nails, but won't cost more than $10 for this projects worth. I used 1/8 sized aluminum rivets, but you can go larger if you prefer that look. I bought 500 rivets for $30, I estimate that this project will use about 100 - 200 rivets depending on your design. Rivets are pretty cool, and once you've got some lying around, you'll probably find some uses for them. They basically a cheap easy and much safer alternative to welding. In this case they look cool, and happen to fit the task very effectively.
FYI The smallest commonly available rivet is 3/32, but the smallest washer that you'll find is 1/8. It's very rare to find a 3/32 washer. Fore this reason I recommend a 1/8 rivet with 1/8 washer unless you know a specialty shop / website that sells smaller rivet / washer combos. Also, aluminum rivets are much cheaper than stainless steel. like 1/3 the price.
-Pair of work gloves - I used basic gardening gloves for my test run, and then did the final run on fire pace gloves because they're longer and I think they looked nicer. If you can get your hands on any pair of old gloves, they should work so long and they're thick and don't stretch. Any material that can stretch will not work. I repeat do not use a glove that can stretch.
-Tin snips for cutting the ducting sheet. If you're using something else, you'll need something that can cut it. Like a laser engraver/cutter for example.
They come in sets of 3 usually for like $15 -$20 , one for cutting straight, one for left, and one for right.
"But I can cut straight, left AND right with regular scissors!?!?!"
Tin snips are designed to produce a safe edge when cutting with them. You'll notice right away that it's easier to make right turns with the right cutters, cut straight with the straight etc. I recommend using them the way they were meant to be used. Cutting straight lines with the left or right snips will produce jagged razor sharp edges where the straight cutter will make a relatively safe edge.
-work gloves ( for safety when handling the metal, even though you're probably fine without them )
- File (to smooth the edges) ( green), Bench grinder / rotary tool ( Non-eco friendly)
- A metal punch matching your rivets (green) / Drill with a drill bit to match your rivets ( non-eco friendly)
-block of wood, to use as a backing for punches/drills
-Imagination, and creativity (This is optional, but recommended when trying to make your gauntlets unique)