Done the same way Leo Fender did back in 1946.
There is Nothing like the Warm sound of a pine wood cabinet!
Fender is a licensed trademark for FMIC Not to be affiliated with ampRiser or instructables.com
Step 1: Measuring the Four Sections to Be Cut
I wanted the wood grain to match throughout the cabinet,
After purchasing a piece of select pine wood 1" thick 10" wide and 8' in length,
I carefully marked the 4 sections to be cut at 14.5" then 15.25" then 14.5" then 15.25"
Measure Twice CUT Once! Make sure to always were proper safety glasses and
read and understand the proper use of your power tools!
I used my radial arm saw to cut the sections.
Step 2: Numbering the Cut Sections
Step 3: Dry Fit the Sections
for proper assembly.
I dry fit them to see how the cabinet will look,
notice how the wood grain matches and follows
throughout the cabinet.
Step 4: Cutting the Finger Joints
I set up sections 1 and 3 in my finger joint jig
to be cut with my router.
1" stock is actually 3/4" thick, so I set the depth of cut at 3/4"
sections 1 and 3 start the cutting at an open finger on the jig
sections 2 and 4 start the cutting at the finger of the jig,
that way they are of set and will go together properly.
*Remember to ALWAYS wear safety glasses*
Step 5: Dry Fit the Cut Sections
(finger jointing a cabinet can be complicated and requires
special tools and skills, so if you want you could skip
these steps and simply assemble the cabinet with out them?)
Step 6: Applying the Glue
to all the surfaces of the cut finger joints.
I usually apply 3 or more coats of glue
allowing them to set up and soak into the wood for a couple of minutes.
Step 7: Start to Assemble
and both sides of the bottom section, then set up corner clamps,
apply glue to the top of the sides and top section,
allowing to set up a few minutes before complete assembling.
Step 8: Assemble and Clamp
I clamp the cabinet at every possible angle.
I start by applying only enough pressure to hold the cabinet together,
and slowly tighten over a few minutes.
This allows the glue to react and set properly.
Step 9: Remove the Clamps and Sand
at least 24 hours to set, I remove the clamps,
and give the cabinet a basic overall sanding.
Step 10: Cutting the Angled Front
I set up my guide on the table saw at about 3 deg.
so that I can cut the angled front of the cabinet.
The cabinet was made square 14.5 x 15.25 x 10"
so that I could finger joint the cabinet easier.
the cabinet actually has an angled front.
the TOP measures 8.75" and tappers down to 9.5"
(This procedure is NOT easy)
*Always wear your safety glasses*
Step 11: Finishing the Angled Cut
and the Top and Bottom are cut straight.
This cut is hard to do perfectly,
so when I am done I will have to sand the
Step 12: Adding the Speaker Baffle Trim
I cut two pieces of 3/8" thick x 1" W x 12 3/4" L
with a 3 deg. bevel on the sides.
These are glued and clamped to the inside
of the front of the cabinet.
These sections will be used to accept the speaker baffle.
Step 13: Measuring and Marking for the Amplifier Chassis
Step 14: Cutting the Amp Chassis Section Out
I cut the section out using a scroll saw.
*WEAR YOUR SAFETY GLASSES*
measure Twice CUT Once!!!
Step 15: Rounding Over the Edges
I carefully round over the edges with my router table.
I used a 3/4" round over bit.
*WEAR YOUR SAFETY GLASSES*
Step 16: Finish Rounding Over
*PLEASE WEAR YOUR SAFETY GLASSES!*
Step 17: Final Sanding
I give the cabinet a final sanding.
The cabinet is finally starting to take shape!
Step 18: Fitting the Amp Chassis
*My NEXT Instructable I will show the making of the speaker baffle
covering the cabinet with TOLEX and installing the amp and speaker*