This instructable covers how to build, mount and control LED light bars to provide for full color ambient room lighting as well as "ambilight" style video effects.

Note that the flickering of the leds is not as noticable in real life as it is in the video. This is due to the PWM of the lights being off from the camera rate.

This is fairly easy to build as long as you have patience. Although there is a lot of soldering, it's easy to do on the strip board. I recommend having some programming experience if you build this.

You will need:

A controller - I used an LED-Wiz. I plan on switching to an arduino later, but this got me up and running quickly and easily. This controller is capable of driving 32 channels at 500ma, since each led requires 3 channels at 20ma (Red, Green and Blue) this gives me support for 10 light bars with 25 led's each (500ma / 20ma = 25 led's).

RGB Leds - I bought a pack of 200 off ebay for about $65. They are poor quality and there's some variance in the color between them but they were cheap and do the job just fine. I chose to go with 10 bars of 19 leds to give me a few spare led's in my pack. The ebay auction I bought had the title "200X Diffused 5mm Common A Manual Control RGB LED 8Kmcd"

Stripboard - I found stripboard at my local electronics supply store for $6.

Some other people have found it online here:

Resistors - See Below

Wire - I used ribbon cable from my local store, it came in a 20 wire width which i tore into strips of 4 wires.This is the same type of cable used in floppy drive and ata33 cables.

Mounting hardware - I used vinyl siding from Home Depot, see step #5

Power Supply - You may be able to use your computer, see step #6

Software - See step 7. A computer is REQUIRED and the ambilight effects will only work with video being played from the computer. Unless you are using a video capture card to watch TV, it is not possible to have the effects from another source.

Calculating the resistor sizes:

The easiest way to figure it out is to use the online calculator here. My led's were listed as being 20ma forward current with green and blue at 3.6v - 3.8v and red at 2.0v - 2.4v.
Open the calculator and click on "Parallel leds" at the top. Entering 5 for supply voltage, 3.6 for voltage drop, 20ma for current and 19 led's gave me a value of 1 watt 3.9 ohm. Notice that the red led is different so it requires a different resistor.

The store I was at did not have nearly enough 1 watt resistors so I decided to just go for 500mW ones instead. The calculator says the resistor dissipates 503mW in my situation so I should be safe and thus far they have been reliable. I do not necessarily recommend this approach.

If you have questions about the build, please post them as comments instead of messaging me. I've received many questions that are similar and if they are posted in the comments it allows others to learn from them as well.

Step 1: Cutting the Stripboard

To start off, I picked up a large piece of stripboard from my local electronics store. I cut this into pieces measuring (in holes) 4x57 as shown in the picture.

I cut it to this size without considering that I'd want to mount the resistor fully on the board, so you may want to make it a little larger like 4x62. If you mount the resistor fully on the board make sure to cut the copper trace beneath the resistor.

I drew lines along it with a sharpie, cut it most of the way through with a dremel, then it snapped fairly cleanly. A quick run with the dremel's sanding bit and they were ready.

Step 2: Insert the LED's

Inserting the LED's is pretty straightforward. I recommend drawing a line on the board the denote which contact is for the anode. The anode on my led's was the longest leg so a black line from a sharpie made it easy to make sure they went in the right away.

The spacing between the holes in the stripboard does not match the spacing on the led's so they could not be flush with the board. I pushed them in pretty firmly and they stayed in place fairly easily.

Step 3: Soldering the LED's Into the Board

The easiest way to solder them is:
1) Go through with a pair of cutters and trim one leg off each
2) Solder this leg to secure the led to the board
3) Cut the remaining legs and solder them

The solder does not want to adhere to the stripboard in between the copper so it's actually fairly difficult to do this wrong. Be patient and try to avoid leaving the soldering iron in one spot for too long or you may damage the LEDs / board.

Step 4: Soldering the Resistors to the Wire and Then to the Stripboard

I found it was easier to solder the wire to the resistor, then solder the resistors in.

Strip the ribbon cable, leaving one of the wires with more shielding for your common anode, since this will run directly into the board instead of through a resistor. Solder the resistors in the correct order and cover with tape or heatshrink. It does not matter which way the resistors go.

Next solder the entire set to the stripboard. I did the anode first, followed by the resistors. The resistors are easier to do if you bend them at an angle first before putting in, then you can fold the leg down onto the stripboard and just solder it in.

Congratulations, you just finished one! I'd recommend testing each one immediately to make sure you haven't soldered any LED's in backwards ;)

Step 5: Mounting

To mount the bars, I took one to home depot and found a piece of vinyl siding shaped like a U_ that it would fit into. I cut it into strips longer then the board, then cut off the extra mounting piece leaving just the U shape. I lay a strip of scotch mounting tape/foam down inside it and pressed the board in, then tucked the cable in between the plastic.

At this point I also ran some white electrical tape around the entire contraption so that the ends are not open. It's not the ideal solution but it works for now. If you are really determined, you could probably cut pieces of siding to fit into the ends as caps.

To mount the entire things on my wall I used the mounting tape again. Just two little small squares on either end were sufficient.

Step 6: Wiring Up the Controller

Common anode goes to the 5v in and the cathodes go to the different ports. I stuck it all in a box and cut a hole in the side.

I'm running the power for my controller off the power supply for my media pc. The power supply is rated for 20A on the 5V line, but this system requires around 12A. The controller is not capable of powering off usb unless you are doing under 500ma total and this is way beyond that.

191 led's * 3 colors * 20ma = 11460ma. 11460 = 11.45A, plus a bit for the controller.

I initially powered this off my 550w power supply in my pc but with this on my 5v line drops to 4.85v from it's normal 4.98v and my usb devices start to act very sketchy. I grabbed a spare 400 watt very cheap no-name power supply which I had sitting around and it died after running this for 15 minutes. I recommend a decent brand which is separate from your computer.

If you want to use an external power supply, you can connect the green wire in the motherboard connector to a ground (any black) to power it on without a pc. You can find more details here or on google.

Step 7: Software

The LED-Wiz controller comes with some decent software for doing animations and testing:
- LED-Wiz
- LedBlinky
- Luminaudio

I've found a open source program called BobLight which was designed to do Ambilight effects using a custom controller. I've taken BobLight and modified to work with the LEDWiz under the name ShadLight.

In addition to this, I've also added support for sending it a new "command string" via UDP. This is to allow for a php interface on a different machine to set the colors. I run this program on my media PC at all times and use the web interface (on my fileserver) via my blackberry to remote control it.

ShadLight was my first attempt at C# programming and the php interface was hacked together pretty messily. I do not recommend leaving either of these exposed to the internet, definitely put an .htaccess on the php.

Download everything here

Command setting - This is a comma seperated list of settings for each port. 48 is maximum brightness. LR,LG,LB are the red, green and blue ports for the left side of the ambilight and RR,RG,RB are the right side. See the PBA command in the led-wiz developer documentation for more information. This allows you to set your room to be one color, disable a few lights and still have ambilight working on specific light bars.

PHP Configuration - All you need to change is the hostname at the top of the file. PHP must be compiled with sockets support for it to send UDP packets.

Making your media client work:
Windows Media Player (WMP) Classic (with Boblight): Start WMP Classic, go to view and select options. In the options menu go to playback and select output. In the output screen select under DirectShow Video VMR9 (renderless)**! Now restart WMP Classic and open a video (either DVD, avi, divx or something else). The Momolight system should now work with WMP Classic using the Boblight software!

Windows Media Player (WMP): The only way to get Momolight working with standard WMP is by turning of overlay (for example by turning of Hardware Acceleration with your video device). This also only works together with the Boblight software.

VLAN player (with Boblight): Setting the video output in the video options menu to OpenGL will enable AmbX lighting effects with playback of video’s (DVD, divx, etc) with the VLAN player.
<p>May I have a link for shadlight please the links provided in Instructable and form do not work. </p>
<p>Can anyone provide the software &quot;ShadLight&quot;? Unluckily the download links are down...</p>
<p>aren't you supposed to use an resistor for each led? That way they don't get to max brightness and they will have different brightness and also some colors are not gonna turn on!</p>
<p>aren't you supposed to use an resistor for each led? That way they don't get to max brightness and they will have different brightness and also some colors are not gonna turn on!</p>
<p>So is the software working on this or not? I have Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit, if someone could provide a updated download list for the software it would be much appreciated. </p>
I found the &quot;stripboard&quot; also can be called Veloboard... can be purchased here in the longer sizes required by this instructable: http://www.veroboard.com/4x10-4000l-phenolic-pitch-01-254mm-p-28.html
I built something similar to this before reading this instructable.. the way mine works though is... different:<br>The audio is inputed through a 3.5 MM jack, which goes to my audio mixer.. nothing fancy there, different channels, volumes, balance, etc. Then one feed goes into my speakers, so I can hear my music, the other feed goes to a control box where the signal is amplified or.. un-amplified, then it goes to a second box which i can switch between blue &amp; green LEDs, and Orange/red LEDs. <br>the cool thing is that I can have it set up to react to Bass or any or all frequencies in the music.. :D<br>
OK here you all go<br>here people a link to the same he has posted as everything i just fixed 64bit support............<br><br>http://techmasterjoe.com/apps/shadlight.rar<br>..........<br>i keep getting asked a lot so here is my all around led-wiz fix all pack as well<br>http://techmasterjoe.com/apps/wiz-fix.zip........<br>.<br>the site is like 2 days old so be nice i am not a web site builder.<br>i fix hardware not software BUT i can fix the simple things. <br>remember to right click shadlight.exe and under compatibility set disable desktop composition<br>this way it will shut off windows Aero when you start it and back on when closed....
i have a simple code script for you shadow if you want to add it that will make shadlight kill Aero by it's self i was just to lazy to add it to the org pack<br>i fixed 64bit and that will stop the Crash on Start every one has<br><br>i might add it later if i do you will see a added readme file inside tell then it's the same as Shadows just fixed 64bit<br>irc.rizon.net<br>#TechMasterJoe<br>if anyone needs me
if you don't know how to irc good Chance this project is over your head but i will still help if i can.
This is AWESOME! I've been wating to build an ambilight type system for a while. has anyone got this towork on XBMC yet?
works fine with XBMC for windows and Mediaportal
if you want a linux app pm me and give me about a week
RGB LED + LED-WIZ + the APP i made and posted links to will work fine with XBMC<br>thats how i use it still working on my I2c setup with 32 RGB channels i have not forgot it's not as easy as you think<br>i have a working 12 channel setup with messy code but it's 16bit per color at 6X the fq as led wiz works well but is unstable when done i will most likely post it as my own guide but it will be a lot harder then this led wiz setup i made the led wiz setup just like his in about 2hrs<br>my kit might take a bit and cost more as it's meant more for house lighting<br>my goal is 9watt LED's ran with AT328 and RF to a USB / ethernet brain <br>(arduino with ethernet and bluetooth atm)<br><br>the idea is to have as many lights you want and have as much range as you can get <br>my lights cost almost 40$ to build each and about $80 for brain<br>but <br>1. no limit on # of lights<br>2. 2048 steps per color ya that's how crazy it is<br>3. color correction using icm profiles<br>4. each light fits in standard light cans<br>5. 6db ant with a max range of 1000 feet to brain
Can someone send me a copy of the fix so this could work in windows 7? This is amazing work you did! I am trying to get to work myself, but most software is only workable in windows xp or vista.
Do yourself a big favor, solder each LED to the board as you put it it. This way you don't have to try to get your iron around all the other leads to get to the one you want. I have built several bars of this type and unless you want to have an exercise in patience, do this solder step one LED at a time.
I'm totally lost. my copy of shadlight won't even run, immediately errors off. Anybody else having this problem? I built the LEDs and all, testing them using the ledwiz software, and that works just fine, but beyond doing it all manually, I can't do anything with this :(
Did you ever figure this out? Mine also immediately errors off.
I never figured it out. I found after LOTS&nbsp;of research the controller used in this project is limited and kind of old.<br /> <br /> If I were to do it again, I'd use an Arduino and write my own protocol. Back when I first tried this I was just coding for myself, now that I actually code professionally it only makes sense to code the stuff I want on my own :p<br />
dude please do becasue my coding skills fall under leetarded and im using an arduino. someone needs to write a better instructable on this on the software end becasue this is a remarkably useful tool.
I just got mine to work last night... you have windows XP and .net framework 2.0.5__ right? After a couple restarts mine just worked suddenly.
holy crap, I'll give that a try right now. updating my .net framework now
Erfgh, Not sure. My C# knowledge is non-existant, I just hacked this together. I've got all the parts compiled for my home-built controller which will support a lot more and be easier to work with. Once I do that I might port shadlight over to VB so that I can actually make a decent app without learning C#.
Just upgraded to 3.5.....no avail :(
Looking at your room 2 words come to mind. <br /> <br /> 1st is GeeeeekkkkkK!!!!!<br /> 2nd is COooolllll!!!!!!<br /> <br /> Very nice 'ible, im quite impressed.<br />
Can someone make an understandable tutorial on how to get the software side of all this working? I've downloaded all of the programs above. With the GenLEDBlinkyInputMap.exe or LWSEND.exe I can test individually each port on my led wiz. Luminaudio has me lost, as well as trying to get any player to interact with the led wiz. <br /> <br /> Mainly I attempted with MPC. Made the VMR9 (renderless) change.&nbsp;Running shadlight i get no light output.<br /> <br /> Also, I am confused about what I have to do to get the web interface for color control up and running.<br /> <br /> Please any help would be appreciated.<br />
The variability in LED brightness will likely be due to the fact that you've got them in parallel, using a single resistor for many LEDs. LEDs don't play nice when you do this to them. Very small variations in their forward voltage drops will result in big variations in their forward current, and hence in their brightness. If the LEDs are very closely matched, you'll just notice differences in light output. If they're very badly matched, you'll find that one LED will get almost all of the current supplied by the very small resistor. This will cause it to blow, then the LED with the next lowest forward voltage drop will get all of the current. You can take out an entire chain in just a few seconds. To solve the problem give every LED its own resistor (for RGB LEDs, this means three resistors per LED). Assuming 3.7V for the Green and Blue, and 2.2V for the Red, that means 68ohm and about 150ohm respectively on a 5V supply. Resistors are cheap - use them.<br />
i tracked down most of the probs people have and made a quick fix<br /> this will get it working in vista and windows 7 as well (1/2 sec lag or so but dose work )<br /> <br /> just remember to run the batch as a ADMIN or is a no go<br /> this will get LuminAudio working right in vista to <br /> <br /> http://techmasterjoe.com/installers/wiz-fix.zip<br /> <br /> shad will not run it will lock up if vista AREO is running look at screen shot to set compatibility and 99% of the time this +.net 3.5 will fix most probs <br />
You sir, are my hero! I already found out thet with Aero turned on Shadlight will lag. Bu i haven't been able to run Shadlight properly. You did a fantastic job here, keep it up!<br />
&nbsp;its changing very fast...isnt there a way to make it smoother?
i have it all setup and working in vista ult<br /> feel free to change my room color <br /> http://joecolor.tk<br /> it still needs work<br /> http://www.ledlight.com/5050-led-module-water-proof-rgb-positive-anode.aspx<br /> but am using 20 of in pairs of 2 8 pairs around my room <br /> and 2 on my 42&quot; vizio trueled
I have a larger scale version of this, spreading out the led's more, and need some help/advice/comments.<br /> <br /> It is pretty much a 120' length that I want lit, with rbg leds spanning across. The led's will be paired(paralleled) in two's, and every other pair will be on a different channel (example: chan1, chan2, chan1, chan2) so I have separate control over every other pair.<br /> <br /> For each channel I can have 12 pairs (500ma), each pair uses 3 channels (rgb) and I have 120 pairs, so 30 channels. &nbsp; I plan to use a computer power supply as a dedicated power supply for this (5v/30amp) to run it.<br /> <br /> My questions are these. &nbsp;First, do you think a 14/4awg running to 12 pairs 120' away would work? Do you think this whole setup will work, and if so, whats the weakest part? Finally, do you think anyone else is crazy enough to spend this much time on it LOL?<br /> <br /> This is for a commercial project, so I am really hoping it's manageable. If anyone doesn't understand let me know and I'll draw it out for you.<br />
Hey ! I'm starting to make this project but I wonder something... Is it possible that every single light bar is controlled by one specific part of the screen and how to do that ? For exemple, there are 10 light bars and if I want : 1 on the right down side of the screen 1 on the right up side of the screen 1 on the left down side of the screen 1 on the left up side of the screen 1 on the top left side of the screen 1 on the top middle side of the screen 1 on the top right side of the screen and 3 on the bottom like the up side of the screen Of course each light bar has to be the dominant color of the part of the screen it represents (am I clear enough ?) Is it possible or not to do that with this instructable ? THANKS a lot for your help
I figure that you would be able to control every strip individually since each LED has its own channel. The only speedbump to this is that you would probably have to modify code for it to be able to sample and output 10 color areas.
I just come across this today and it's exactly what I've been looking. I was just wondering about the external supply though, would you be able to use something like this instead: <a rel="nofollow" href="http://cgi.ebay.com.au/12V-5V-AC-Adapter-FOR-HARD-DISK-DRIVE-Power-Supply-A057_W0QQitemZ320285880089QQihZ011QQcategoryZ111429QQcmdZViewItem">http://cgi.ebay.com.au/12V-5V-AC-Adapter-FOR-HARD-DISK-DRIVE-Power-Supply-A057_W0QQitemZ320285880089QQihZ011QQcategoryZ111429QQcmdZViewItem</a><br/><br/>An additional info you could provide on wiring an external power supply would be much appreciated.<br/>
does anyone found a better power supply than a computer one wich must waste energy for nothing used like this ?
Possibly could find something better suited for the job but don't expect it to be as cheap as a computer power supply.
in NO way, the external supply must be able to provide about 50watts that mean about 10 A (I may be wrong, tell me if i am) in this configuration, you external supply on ebay can only deliver 2A, it will burn in a few seconds ! ! ! !
Ah yes, of course. Might help if pay a little closer attention. Just thought that it would be a simpler way.
i am also looking for a better power supply, i will post here if i find something ;-)
So your powering this controller of an ATX type power supply with the 5V output at 20A right? Also, how many watts is your power supply that you are powering this off now? Lastly, does the 5 volt positive wire from the power supply go into and then have another wire come out of the 5v input on the Led Wiz?
Sh4dow your overdrawn dot net site is down. I really want to see version two before I start this project. Wondering how it's all coming together. Also on this instructable how did you do your light strips, were each strip just a single color or was it RGB?
I love this design! Looks badass, I'm hoping to start building it soon. Do you still not have an ETA for the second version bc I would like to wait and see how you went about it before starting on the old one Great work man!!
I love it! That is all that I can say!! I love it!! Now I have to do this.. lol.. I wanted to do something like this in my place, but the pricing for the equipment to do this is just outrageous, so I will have to look into this and give it a few stabs... if I bleed.. that is alright... lol... I love it!!
hi am totally new to this stuff!!! bt i have always want to do this so i bought this item at ebay 250423131219! can u tell me how should i fix the resistors to the leds because the leds got only 2 legs??!!! i cant understand how to do the soldering process here!!! PLZ HELP! thnks in adv
Status update on v2....<br/><br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://overdrawn.net/led1.JPG">http://overdrawn.net/led1.JPG</a> &lt;- New controller and one of the new led bars<br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://overdrawn.net/led2.JPG">http://overdrawn.net/led2.JPG</a> &lt;- Inside the test bar<br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://overdrawn.net/led6.JPG">http://overdrawn.net/led6.JPG</a> &lt;- Old one on left, new one on right.<br/><br/>The new bars with 2x 3w rgb stars are about twice as bright as the old ones. I'm considering upping it to 3 stars per bar but this is up to whoever builds it, the controller doesn't care.<br/><br/>Controller is coming together pretty nicely, it's got onboard ethernet, a 256kb memory chip for patterns + animations, a clock chip to do alarm clocks (have it fade up to wake you up in the morning, etc). It'll support up 16 RGB channels but would be fairly easy to expand to more. <br/><br/>All in all, its coming together really well. Next on my list is to start laying out a PCB. No ETA yet :)<br/>
Hi I really love this project and would really like to do something similar in my flat. Do you have any more updates on version2? Could you tell us what the Ethernet on the controller is for? Also do you know if it would be possible to do the colour changing based on the movie being played using Ubuntu?
I'm looking at setting this up for in my cinema room shortly only I was wondering if there was any way possible to use more LEDs ? I know I can space them out to make them go a longer distance but then you lose some of the effect :/ Any ideas ? I'm going to have the two long walls being about 4.5meters long, and they will have the two "Left F and left R" etc light bars on them, if i do 9cm spacing with the 25 LEDs per bar then that would work, but is 9 cm too far to create a good effect with the LEDs you have recommended? I seen that you have done much less, although this LEDs will probably be the only source of lighting other than projector when watching it... so maybe? And Sh4d0w you say that you are making v2 on its own PCB, will you be making this a ready made/DIY kit that one could purchase? Thanks for this great Instructable, Adam thanks for this great guide...
Yes, my intention is to sell kits. I've been super busy as of late so it's been pushed back though. V2 is significantly brighter and doesn't require a computer for basic stuff. I found that if you can see the L / R led's changing then its very distracting. I tried making all the lights change color with the tv but it was pretty annoying. Got way better results having it directly behind the TV. Just eyeballing it, I'd say theres about a foot between my tv and the wall behind it. The led's are directly on the back of the TV.
Hey Shadow - One of the best projects on here. I was thinking of buying one of these - <br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.neon-lights.co.uk/index.php/home-lighting/led-home-lighting/apollo-ambient-lighting-kits/c_10.html">http://www.neon-lights.co.uk/index.php/home-lighting/led-home-lighting/apollo-ambient-lighting-kits/c_10.html</a><br/>But they are expensive, and it looks like you have almost the same thing in a diy version. Could your sysytem be modified to use a remote ? And, I notice yours works with the TV to somehow change colors, and pulse, etc - would it be possible to control the led wiz with a remote, and just have the backlight morph thru a buch of different colours slowly and automatically ? Do you think it would be possible for the average person (me) to build a tv backlight system that would be as good as the store bought (for less $) ? If you don't mind me asking, what did yours cost ? <br/>

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