At present you could store 12 Micro SD cards that are 64gb each or 768gb total. Micro SD cards at 128gb each are on there way, and if you're part of a well funded "organization" you can probably already get them. This means the case could carry 1.5 terabytes. This is the same as carrying around 12,582,912 of the Macintosh computer from the legendary 1984 commercial, if you're keeping score at home. All of that plus a handful of business cards tucked into a chic clutch or computer bag.
Step 1: Supplies and Equipment
Bass Wood Pieces in 1/8 and 3/32 inch thick
Wood Veneer - 1/40 inch thick in assorted pieces and species - NOT paper backed
Sand Paper - 100 to 400 grit
Clear Vinyl/Contact Paper
Scrap Wood (for clamping)
Toothpicks (for micro-gluing)
If you're using veneer and not laser cutting it, a sharp blade, straight edge and cutting mat will allow you to make a wide variety of shapes.
Step 2: Design
The case itself is made in two layers to accomodate the sliding lid. I had originally considered adding a leather strap but I was able to keep my tolerances tight enough that the box stays closed by friction and doesn't need additional closure, especially since the case is usually inside a small clutch purse.
A dozen SD cards are fit under a false bottom - the lower level of the wood is engraved deeply enough for them to set into and there is an angled area at the end so that the false bottom can be tilted easily.
I've included a .jpg of my layout for your convenience, but if you're building this yourself I would really encourage you to develop your own layout that is matched against your stock and specific needs.
The exterior of the box is made from pieced wood veneer. The only thing that really matters here is that it is cut to fit on the panels when the lid is slid out, other than that you can use whatever you like. If you're laser cutting the veneer you can make whatever shapes you want (though I'd try to keep everything at at least 1/8 inch, not the 1/32 by 3/32 I thought was reasonable.) If you're hand cutting - which and definitely be done with a sharp blade - straight lines will give you the best shot at visual perfection.
Step 3: Cutting and Piecing
If you're piecing veneer like this my best results come from assembling everything face down on clear vinyl and then gluing entire sides all at once. Tweezers are great help for this, as well as a print of the flipped version of your design to work on top of.
I used lacewood for the body of the octopus and it's more or less made from loosely bound splinters. If your materials are equally unfriendly just collect up the broken pieces and assemble them in place. Once everything is glued and finished the break lines will be invisible.
Step 4: Glue the Case
Glue the box parts in layers working from the inside out. Liberal use of clamps when drying will help everything set together properly.
Step 5: Prep the Case for Veneer
Sand the box until all sides are even to the touch - you shouldn't be able to feel any surface variance. To keep the box square I lay my sheet of sandpaper down on a hard, flat table and rub the box on the sandpaper. If you have a bench style belt sander you could use that instead (you lucky duck!) Stick with a low grit sandpaper - 100 grit or so - because you want to leave a little texture for the glue to grab.
Step 6: Glue the Veener
Glue pairs of sides in sequence - both long sides, both short sides, etc. After each side sand down any extra veneer that extends past the edges on the box. Working this way keeps the reveals symmetrical. Of course, the reveals are about 1/40th of an inch, so it's not the end of the world if you don't make it perfect, but after placing 1/32 by 2/32" pieces of veneer I'm not ready to cut any corners now.
Spread a thin, even coat of wood glue over the panel you're gluing. Carefully place the veneer on the panel and then clamp it down to something hard and perfectly flat (I use a couple layers of plywood) until the glue is set. This prevents the edges of veneer from curling when they absorb the moisture from the glue. Sand the edges of that panel and move on to the next.
Remove the sliding door before applying the veneer to the edges of it. There's no way to sand the veneer down if it is too big and the door won't slide out, but you can sand the edges of the veneer before sliding it back in. Don't glue the box closed after this much work!
Repeat these steps until every side of the box is covered in veneer.
Step 7: Peel the Vinyl
Step 8: Sand the Veneer
If you have any large gaps you'll want to fill them in with a bit of wood filler.
When you're finished sanding go over the veneer with a clean towel and mineral spirits. The mineral spirits will help lift the sanding dust from the wood, which is especially important when you're using different colors of stock (maple dust disappears in maple, but is bright white against mahogany.) When the wood is dry go over it with a tack cloth to remove any remaining dust.
Step 9: Apply the Finish
Remove the door before finishing because, again, you don't want to glue the box closed.
Step 10: Final Finishing
The box is ready to use - fill the lower section with Micro SDs, drop in the false bottom then add a stack of business cards.