Since converting a longboard or skateboard to electric will add significant weight, it is necessary to keep all of the components as light as possible to begin with. Carbon-fiber is an ultra-strong, ultra-lightweight composite building material, and it can be used to significantly increase the strength, and decrease the weight of a skateboard deck.

While it might sound daunting to work with carbon-fiber, it is actually very easy with some prior research (it is very similar to fiber-glassing). This deck has plywood supports for the trucks, and an integrated compartment for the electronics, which adds structural support and increases the clearance under the deck.

Additionally, by making your own carbon-fiber deck, you will be saving yourself a lot of money! An already-made carbon-fiber deck for electric skateboard will set you back about $500! If you buy in bulk, this deck costs only about $75, not including labor.

Step 1: Watch the Video Tutorial!

Watch this quick video to learn more about the carbon-fiber deck, and the electric skateboard that it was used for!

<p>can you link some files for the 3d printed spacers?</p>
<p>You can get spacers that are almost the same from http://www.enertionboards.com/</p>
Are there any starter kits for carbon fiber and a vacuum bag that you would recommend, or fiber glass too?
<p>The type of foam used is harder to source than others- do you think you'd find regular pink EPS acceptable? I assume almost all the strength comes from the CF skin, but I could be wrong. </p><p>Any tips for cheap sourcing of carbon fiber and fiberglass materials? I've never found a good source. </p>
I don't know much about sourcing, however I do know a little about the core material. If you are looking for strength you want to go with a material that is strong in compression. Which means it doesn't squish easily. I would suggest going with something other than EPS foam but I have never tested it as a core material. Honeycomb nomex, for example is what aerospace companies use in their products but you shouldn't have to go that far. Some denser foam like EPO should work
Perhaps I would be fine with just some compression material near the center of the board, where the edges should have less issue with buckling or anything. Good point there I hadn't though much. <br><br>To be honest I was thinking of XPS not EPS, that was a mistake. EPS is fairly soft, XPS is soft but not as bad. <br><br>Honeycomb materials are too pricey for me :P:)
<p>XPS = eXtruded Polystyrene (pink or blue wall board insullation) and EPS = Expanded Polystyrene? (usually white, like disposable coolers and rigid packing material.)</p>
<p>Like Scollins055 said, if you want strength you gotta go with a material that is difficult to compress. Pink EPS is softer than the material I used, and I wouldn't recommend trying it to be honest. The strength comes from the CF, but the farther apart the layers are, the stronger your deck will be. So if you use soft foam and it gets squished, then your deck will have less strength. </p><p>I buy all of my stuff from fiberglass supplies down in Washington since it's nearby and cheap. I saw some of the same CF on eBay but it was maybe 1.5 times the price. </p>
EPS won't squish under vacuum - the only squishing after vacuuming is if the carbon fiber deforms. I am not familiar enough with CF layup, but I think really it would be OK to remove much of the interior material and compensate with thicker CF. My ideal would be to remove much of the foam core and even fit electronics and batteries in a cavity. <br><br>Dunno, this instructable is very inspiring! I think I'll go for it in october when have more time. I was bummed that my original longboard I bought was stolen, and the replacement I couldn't bear to pay much for was noticably lower quality of a ride. Maybe DIY is the way to go :D
<p>Beautiful work, both the board and the instructable! I already have batteries and a SK3 motor laying around, so I should probably make one as well :).</p>
<p>Will you post all the electronics for this board, or is it the same as your other boards?</p>
It's pretty much the same except the charging system. Use my old board schematics as reference, as well as my new charging system instructable!
<p>How much does it weigh?</p><p>BTW: Great video and Instructable I hope you keep up the work !</p>
<p>is this easy<br></p>
<p>Nice project with a touch of perfection. Looks very easy to do for everyone ;) </p>
<p>Thank you! Hope it gets others to biuld it as well! </p>
<p>You mentioned two layers of Unidirectional Carbon. It is clearly not unidirectional but a woven cloth. Did you have the Unidirectinal carbon underneath the woven materials?</p>
<p>Not in this deck, but in my other deck I used unidirectional fiberglass under the top layers; that's why I said unidirectional!</p>
What's the mileage
<p>Well I have ridden about 40km on this board so far, is that what you mean?</p>
<p>I think they meant range per charge, but it was not a well posed question :p</p>
Hmmmm I wonder why this in an email that says 20 projects under $20??
<p>First of all CONGRATULATIONS !</p><p>Second , I don't get how did you glued with epoxy both sides of the deck at the same time,I guess it's really sticky,when you put that into the vacuum bag,how did you manage to avoid loosing epoxy rubbing with the bag?</p><p>Third,I'm waiting that great instructable,where you show us how to set up the power supply.I noticed that all the cheap BMS,they are selling on ebay,are no more than 10 -20 amps ,but as I'll be using a 6s configuration,I'll be draining a lot of current from the motor,so is it possible to just use the Balancing ,short circuit and cut off voltages of the BMS ,but avoid using the current limiter part? Watching the pictures you posted ,by the thickness of the wires ,I guess you managed to make this work,overriding that part of the circuit.</p><p>Again,thank you,and keep up the good work!</p>
<p>Thank you! And you don't need to soak the epoxy all the way through. The vacuum bag compresses the carbon-fiber together, and spreads the epoxy thoroughly throughout the layers. Epoxy and glue are not interchangeable. </p><p>And for your BMS question; yes, you can bypass the current limiter by connecting your ESC directly to the batteries. I'll be making a new tutorial on that shortly.</p>
<p>Wow, this is a gorgeous skateboard. So nice!!</p>
<p>Thank you! It took a long time to plan things out and get it right the first time :)</p>
So. Awesome. Coolest project I've seen in a while.
<p>Thank you! :)</p>
<p>Why did you use resin infusion instead of appling it normally</p>
<p>Because it's stronger and it uses less epoxy (thus saving weight). It forms a better bond with the foam core, and I consider it critical for something like a skateboard deck.</p>

About This Instructable




Bio: I'm a highschooler who is interested in technology, science, and engineering. In my spare time I work on projects that allow me to learn ... More »
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