This is not a full Instructable. It is simply some notes on how to do this.

This assumes that you can and already do basic maintenance on your own, especially changing the oil.

I created this because while there are written instructions on changing Accord transmission fluid, I never found any pictures. In fact, the Haynes manual doesn't have these pictures!

Step 1: Locating the drain plug

This photo shows the location of the automatic transmission fluid drain plug on a 2001 Honda Accord.

Looking from the side, the plug is almost directly behind the passenger-side front wheel.

To remove the plug, you need a 3/8 drive socket wrench. *It does not take a socket, you must stick the 3/8 drive directly into the plug!*
<p>Thanks garooob for posting these helpful &quot;how to&quot; instructions on changing the AT fluid in a 6th gen. 4 cylinder Accord. I am preparing to do this job for the 1st time on a friend's 2002 Accord. -- Regarding the which AT fluid to use I would recommend sticking with genuine Honda AT fluid. I don't like the fact that it's more expensive than generic fluid but it is engineered to work best in Honda cars. Please see the various Honda Accord Forums for more info from the experts on this topic.</p>
I own a 2000 v6 model. There is no pan. The transmission has a drain plug on the side and it bolts together in the middle from the top down. The filter is an internal part that requires the transmission to be pulled out of the car and disassembled to get to. I use lucas transmission fix when i drain and refill the fluid. Generic fluid should work fine if its maintained properly.
<p>Instead of the expensive Honda fluid, Use <b>Valvoline MaxLife Dexron / Mercon Automatic Transmission Fluid which is even better than the honda fluid. Also you should do it 3 times with driving a few miles between changing, this will replace almost every-bit of the old fluid. Transmission fluid should be changed every 30,000 miles or at least every 50,000. The problem with old fluid is it starts getting sticky and causes the parts that shift the transmission to start getting sluggish. </b></p>
it makes this job easier but you actually cant remove the pan which sucks for more important jobs
You can do a more complete flush if you disconnect the lines going from the transmission to the oil cooler, put the line going to the oil cooler into a bucket to catch the old fluid and use the line going back to the transmission to fill. You should be able to gravity fill if you have a bucket on top of the car with clean fluid connected to the line going back into the transmission.
It is nice that you have a drain plug rather than needing to remove the transmission pan.

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Bio: @garooob
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