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Hello, in this instruction, I will show you how to make a 3D-Printer for less than 60€ (maybe the cheapest in the world)

I'm 16 Years old and I made everything by myself.

This 3D-Printer, works with the cheapest motors on the market (28Byj-48), for the electronics I use the Ramps 1.4 . It also has an all metal hotend for around 5€.

Specs:

Buildsize : 10x10x10cm

Travel speed: 20mm/s

Printspeed: 10mm/s

Resolution: 0.2mm


Step 1: Parts: Mechanic

MDF-Plates:

-1x 30x34cm (Baseplate)

-2x 6x4cm

-1x 34x6cm

-1x 15x4cm

ca. 2 €

Aliexpress:

-12x LM8UU Aliexpress - 5.58€

-2x GT2 Pulley + 1m GT2 Belt Aliexpress -3.33€

-10x 624 Bearings Aliexpress 2.26€

-1x Mk8 DriveGear Aliexpress 0.89€

-1x PTFE tube Aliexpress 1.97€


8mm Smooth rods:

- 2x 22cm

- 4x 17,5cmkleinteileversand

--3.19€

Local Hardware Store

-1x M5 threaded rod

-2x M5 hex-nut

-8x M3x16mm screws

-6x M3x 25mm screws

-4x M4x45 screws

-2x M4x 60 screws

-4x M4x20 srews

-20xM4 Hex-Nuts

-10x M3 hex Nuts

-12x small woodscrews

ca. 6€

In Total: 17€

<p>What is an endstop, and where could I find it? (please attach a link)</p>
<p>An endstop is a switch that tells the control board (RAMPS 1.4 + Mega) that the carriage has reached its minimum position before falling off the rails. When you start a print, all 3 axis (x, y, and z) &quot;home&quot; themselves, which means they move to the coordinate (0, 0, 0) and they use the endstops to figure out when it has reached this position. All print moves are based off of this reference point, so when you tell the printer to move 10mm to the right, it will move 10mm to the right with respect to the endstop. They are 100% essential and I purchased mine here <a href="http://www.aliexpress.com/item/1PCS-High-Quality-Mechanical-Endstop-For-Reprap-ramps-1-4-3D-printer-With-independent-packing/32453082101.html." rel="nofollow">http://www.aliexpress.com/item/1PCS-High-Quality-M...</a> of course, you need three of them. It is essential to correctly wire these to the RAMPS board or you can fry the voltage regulator on your arduino. That situation just happened to me in monday when the endstop shorted out on one of my linear rails. Hope this helps</p>
<p>and what about another three of them (since the Ramps 1.4 can manage up to six) to send information about the maximum highness he can reach (to exclude the inconvenience to have set wrong dimensions of the printing volume)? is it a stupid configuration?</p>
<p>and what about another three of them (since the Ramps 1.4 can manage up to six) to send information about the maximum highness he can reach (to exclude the inconvenience to have set wrong dimensions of the printing volume)? is it a stupid configuration?</p>
<p>in step 10 the pic says 2 extruder. that is not actually necessary right? we can skip one and keep one extruder. </p>
<p>Yes, that's the general configuration which concerns 2 extruders</p>
<p>What are the rough estimates on power requirements? <br></p>
<p>Hey, so first of all, this isn't the final design of my printer. Eventually, I will be constructing the frame out of 3/8&quot; aluminum plate to stiffen everything up and replacing a lot of parts. The build volume has been increased to 15x15x15. All motors on this printer are NEMA 17s (including the z axis). I am printing at 60mm/s without any problems (See Note), even the motors and RAMPS/Arduino stay cool even during long prints thanks to a few cooling fans. I am using an E3D Lite6 to avoid the problems generally experienced by purchasing a knockoff E3D hotend from China. I've added an LCD screen with an SD card reader so that I don't have to have my laptop connected the entire time to print. All in all I am very happy with this project and I do not feel I could have done this without this article. Even though I've veered off from the original design, it was what inspired me in the first place.</p><p>Attached are a few pictures of the printer and examples of things I've printed on it. The Totoro and the adjustable wrench were both printed using wood filled PLA. The Totoro was printed on medium settings in Simplify3D and is completely unfinished. The wrench was printed on high settings and has been sanded, painted and stained. The blue plastic piece is for a cooling fan (medium settings, Hatchbox blue PLA) I will eventually be adding in.</p><p>Thanks</p><p>**Note*** You will need to purchase a higher torque NEMA 17 motor for the extruder. I made the mistake of buying a NEMA 17 rated at only 0.4 Amps. It is great for driving the axis, but the extruder skips steps. Id recommend one rated at 1.5 Amps.</p>
<p>what dimensions of rods did you use?</p><p>Im thinking on 230mm XY axis but i am not sure</p>
<p>Nice bro! Also, have you thought about using cooling fans?</p>
<p>Yep, gonna happen in the final design. The blue thing i printed out directs the airflow from a blower fan to the part im printing</p>
<p>Sweet</p>
<p>I can't find .stl file for this part please provide it<br></p>
<p>I don't find any .stl file for this part please provide it<br></p>
how many volts and amps should have the power supply
<p>Ole ,tus santos webos!! , yo agobiado porque me lleg&oacute; mal impresa una pieza y tu la estas haciendo en madera...desde hoy eres mi idolo , en serio!</p>
<p>If you are not using a heated bed, 10 amps at 12 volts will be sufficient, however, if you do have a heated bed or are thinking of upgrading to a heated bed, it would be a good idea to buy a 30 amp, 12 volt power supply. I've tested my printer while it was running, and it never drew more than 5 amps and I was using NEMA 17 motors rated for 0.4 amps at 12 volts. The motors you are using will not draw nearly as much power.</p>
thanks for this tutorial.
<p>where did you guys get the metal piece for the bowden extruder?</p>
<p>Did you guys midified something on the program to fit the 28BYJ-48 instead of nema 17 for the extruder? <br><br>I am testing out the electronics and everithing works except the extruder motor that does not move.</p>
<p>I excluded faulty stepper motor and driver because i chaged them and they work on the axis x y and z. </p>
<p>Hi ! </p><p>This is my version of the Cherry which I build from wood and with old copier 24v steppers.</p><p>I modified my ramps to run with 24v and I used a 12v ATX psu for hotend and fan with a boost converter to get 24v for my steppers. </p><p>I'm in the middle of calibration but for the moment I printed this 20mm cube at 25mm/s.</p><p>Build area : 20x20x20cm</p><p>Cost : 80&euro; </p>
Nice work. Well done!
<p>For step number four with the 28BYJ-48 motor how do you change the wire pattern and where would you solder it?</p>
<p>In my case i cutted the wires (Pink/Orange/Yellow) and solded them in the order he mentioned. That would be (Blue/Yellow/Orange/Pink). So you solder the conection on the conector pink to the Yellow wire and so on...<br><br>The red wire will not be connected.</p>
<p>To anyone looking to build a 3D printer on a tight budged, I highly recommend the E3D lite6. It is only about $10-20 more then a knockoff E3D v6 but its actually made by E3D and it has been said that it has identical quality to the genuine v6. If you go with one of the cheap Chinese knockoffs, you could be in for nightmare. The only really difference between the v6 and lite6 is the lite6 has a PTFE liner so it is limited to 240 celsius, but thats fine since this printer doesnt even have a heated bed to print ABS anyways</p>
<p>Hey!</p><p>Everybody who followed me and upgraded to Nema 17 for X and Y has a new problem:</p><p>The printer is shaking, because of the weak Z axis. This gets even worse, when printing higer layers.</p><p>My solution:<br>The Cherry 3D enhancement kit!</p><p><a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1561645" rel="nofollow">http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1561645</a></p>
<p>hey </p><p>what steppers did u upgrade and can you some me some picture of how you attached them please ? :D </p>
<p>Hey, you find all informations and pictures in one of my earlier comments.</p>
<p>you sir is thus legend :D thanks </p>
<p>i hope someone will answer me. I want to extend the building plate to 20x20x20cm. I must change the firmware code or is enough to change building area size in the printing software (like repetier)? </p><p>thanks for any replies.</p>
<p>I added another axis to the nema 17 conversion if anyone is interested</p><p>http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1452027</p>
<p>I'm having trouble finding the rods needed for this project and their size</p>
<p>What country are you in, I would suggest buying the rods from somewhere within your country.</p>
<p>I am currently building this but i have a problem, i modified an old ATX psu so i can use it in this project but i have 12 v running at 14 amps what do i do, how do i split the current so i can i have 11amp and 5 amps </p>
<p>You dont need to split it. You have two different 14A Rails on this PSU. Just wire all of the 12V Cables together, so you have one big 28A Rail. Then you just wire this one cable to the 11A and 5A connection of the RAMPS.</p><p>BTW: These are the maximum recommended for the fuses. if your electronics(heatbed for example) take more than 11A or 5A for the electronics, its going to shut down. Because these high currents mostly will happen if there is a short circuit</p>
Thanks man or women, that really helped me :) im nearly finished this make :D
<p>3D Printer- Cherry XL 200x200x150 with heated bed. We are in the middle of calibration. This is some test print. Thanks to Vulcaman</p>
<p>Can you post more photos and maybe a video, would really love to see more</p>
<p>Hey. The XL Version looks great. Did you just change the size of the MDF Plates and the rods? Would you mind posting the dimensions for your 200x200 version?</p>
<p>Dimensions are there</p>
<p>Thanks!</p>
<p>Anyone know what size these Modles need to be prinnted at? mm,cm,inch?</p>
thanks that's what I thought just wanted to make sure.
<p>Millimeters </p>
<p>i was wondering does this printer even use heat bed? or is it just applying straight onto the wood</p>
<p>You dont need a heated bead if you are printing PLA but use blue painters tape or smear some glue stick every time you print. </p>
<p>just a small feedback about my building adventure :<br>- I have broken the x motor because of a screw that overflow the bed (and it has forced)<br>- I have broken one of the 2 z motor because of the endstop that was to mobile (and it has forced).<br><br>they are &quot;mechanically&quot; broken... I mean that the gearbox inside &quot;dry run&quot;... the electric part of the stepper turns but the outshaft do not.<br><br>i dont think it's fixable...<br>i'm currently changing them.</p><p>Next to that I plan to upload the last repetire firmware update published as update the 29/02/2016 ... i hope i will be able to print soon :-)</p>
<p>Did you fix the motors? I would recomend that you upgrade to the Numa 17 motors </p>
<p>numa numa yay!</p>

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Bio: I'am a 17 years old guy from Germany who love to make things. Later I want to become an Electrical Engineer :-)
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