Hello, in this instruction, I will show you how to make a 3D-Printer for less than 60€ (maybe the cheapest in the world)

I'm 16 Years old and I made everything by myself.

This 3D-Printer, works with the cheapest motors on the market (28Byj-48), for the electronics I use the Ramps 1.4 . It also has an all metal hotend for around 5€.


Buildsize : 10x10x10cm

Travel speed: 20mm/s

Printspeed: 10mm/s

Resolution: 0.2mm

Update: 27.05.2016: Added new Files for Nema 17 Motors (Step 13)

Step 1: Parts: Mechanic


-1x 30x34cm (Baseplate)

-2x 6x4cm

-1x 34x6cm

-1x 15x4cm

ca. 2 €


-12x LM8UU Aliexpress - 5.58€

-2x GT2 Pulley + 1m GT2 Belt Aliexpress -3.33€

-10x 624 Bearings Aliexpress 2.26€

-1x Mk8 DriveGear Aliexpress 0.89€

-1x PTFE tube Aliexpress 1.97€

8mm Smooth rods:

- 2x 22cm

- 4x 17,5cmkleinteileversand


Local Hardware Store

-1x M5 threaded rod

-2x M5 hex-nut

-8x M3x16mm screws

-6x M3x 25mm screws

-4x M4x45 screws

-2x M4x 60 screws

-4x M4x20 srews

-20xM4 Hex-Nuts

-10x M3 hex Nuts

-12x small woodscrews

ca. 6€

In Total: 17€

<p>Vulcaman, I just wanted to say that the readme.txt file (for uploading the .ino file) was a bit confusing. Line 29 says:&quot;Hint: if you have enabled eeprom support, the first upload will copy the configurations into eeprom. Later uploads will NOT overwrite these settings!&quot; </p><p>At first I thought: how do I know if I have enabled it or not??!! </p><p>But then when I searched the repetier forum for info and then looked through the config.h tab, EEPROM support is enabled by default with #define EEPROM_MODE 1, so the &quot;hint&quot; is confusing. I hope I have understood the eeprom mode setting correctly. If it is 0, then eeprom support is disabled, but if it is any number between 1 and 255, then it is enabled. Is that correct? So basically, just upload the ino file exactly as it is...right? Pardon my confusion!</p>
<p>My extruder motor doesn't seem to want to work, i've tested the motor and the board and they work okay but when in the port E0 or E1 it doesn't work. I desperately need an answer, thanks in advance.</p>
<p>You have to preheat your hotend to &gt; 170&deg;, otherwise the extruder motor won't work. If you don't want to preaheat your hotend, you can also set the miniumum extrusion temperature in the config.h file to 10&deg;. Then your motor should even work at room temperature. Don't forget to connect your termistor to the Ramps Board.</p>
<p>Thanks for the reply, I did that and changed E0 to the main extruder and it worked!! Thanks for the reply.</p>
Does your printer have a hotbed? Because it looks like there's none in this instructable. And no hotbed cost included in total printer cost.<br>How do you print without hotbed?
<p>Perfectly well if you're using PLA:</p><p>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Kwd5aaFLBo</p>
<p>Hello, could someone tell me where VREF adjustment for 28BYJ 48-by-48 28BYJ 5v and 12v and nema 17 1.8A</p><p>Thank you</p>
Hi, 28BYJ 48 is 5v and you need to change the 28BYJ-48 from unipolar to bipolar. Nema 17 is 12v you can connect directly.
You can buy from aliexpress or ebay
<p>How did you attach the screw rods to the motor spindles? there're no parts that might look like the ones you've used. Could you please share?</p>
<p>Hi. How long does it take to print the pieces. Just an estimate. There are printers i could use but they have 4 hour max time at once.</p><p>And how much do you charge for the printed ones. Do you ship them to Finland</p>
<p>how do you set up the firmware on the arduino? I've never done anything like this before, please help.</p>
<p>How do you set up the eeprom file and wha'ts repetier host?</p>
<p>how do you connect the hotend to the Arduino also?</p>
<p>how do you connect the hotbed to the Arduino </p>
Cual es la mejor fuente de alimentacion para estos motores ( sin cana caliente )
<p>Hola camarada yo ya cas&iacute; termino la impresora y la corriente que debes regular en los pololus es a 120 mA o 130 mA con estos valores a mi me funci&oacute;na y no se calientan demasiado recuerda que para el eje Z le tienes que sumar lo doble yo le puse 300 mA</p><p>Cualquier duda que tengas asmelo saber. suerte</p>
Cual es la mejor fuente de alimentacion para estos motores ( sin cama caliente )<br>
<p>Cuanta corriente le han puesto de ajuste a los driver para que los motores no se calienten demasiado?</p>
What is the long of m5 threaded rod and I saw two smooth rods What needed to other two rods
for z axis
<p>There is basically two rods per axis (x,y,z) and the threaded rod is what controls the z axis. All other axis move using belts. The reason why you wouldn't want to use a belt for the z axis is first of all, accuracy and secondly, precision. Belts wear out a lot quicker than threaded fasteners, and when they do, they become inaccurate and imprecise.</p>
thank for comment I bought everything now I am waiting for parts
<p>can u add another extruder</p>
you can buy ready extruder pack from aliexpress
Where do i buy the mdf and what size are the wood screws?
<p>You can get mdf at hardware stores and they will even cut it to size for you. Re woodscrews, I just went to the smaller local hardware store in my town because I always get more help there than at the big local hardware chainstore. I took my 3d printed motor mounts with me and asked the guy at the little hardware store for wood screws that would fit into the motor mounts and were not longer than the depth of the mdf. Hope that helps.</p>
Thanks so much, this is very helpful. Only problem is that i dont know of any small hardware stores because i just moved from madison, ct to Jacksonville lol.
​Hi,<br><br>Some one solved problems with communication port?<br><br>A lot of &quot;Warning: Missed line detected - correcting buffer usage.&quot; make me fail prints.
<p>Hello, excuse my English I'm Italian, have tried to build the printer, but it happens something strange, try to print but makes small movements of a few millimeters and can not print anything maybe firmware problem you would kindly let me here are my printer measures 27cm x axis</p><p>30cm y-axis and z-axis 30, while extruder crashes wire, manually everything works</p><p>a nema 17 motor 1.7A and 4 28BYJ-48 these as ruler opololu A4988 many thanks</p>
<p>Have you checked and tuned the Vref on your stepper drivers? Your build looks quite heavy so you may need to increase the current in the motors especially in the y axis.</p><p>https://youtu.be/bItYRMLGoVc</p>
<p>Thanks for the answer, what is to be vref with 28BYJ-48 engines are not able to calculate and what with nema 17, thanks for the help</p>
What size are the wood screws exactly? All it says in the listings is small wood screws so what size should I buy exactly?
<p>this is my printer</p>
<p>I received my clone hotend but I am having problems with the heater cartridge. I inserted the cartridge into the heating block and tightened the screw on the heater block as tight as I can, but the cartridge is not held fast. It keeps sliding back and forth and moves around.</p><p>Any possible solutions? </p>
<p>Replying to myself (in case it helps someone else):</p><p> I ended up using a normal M3 screw which is a bit longer than the hex screw that comes with the heat block. That tightened the heating block around the cartridge, so the cartridge isn't going to slip out and become a fire hazard anymore. Honestly, I am used to buying cheap &amp; shonky things from China. Buying a few crappy nano/pro mini/uno clones that may randomly die is one thing, but actually a heat cartridge that slips around in the block scares the hell out of me.</p><p>I have a feeling this may be just one of many surprises to come with this clone.</p>
<p>Sorry to ask a dumb question like this, but how do you increase the print size? Do you just build the printer with longer rods and a bigger print bed? And what about the software itself, do you have to adjust the code also?</p><p>Sorry about all the questions, i'm kinda new to the 3d printing community </p>
<p>Careful not to increase the size by too much without increasing the diameter of the smooth rods. Otherwise you will end up with sag near the center of the rods. 300mm on any axis maximum if you plan on using 8mm rods. Any larger and you will need to increase the size accordingly.</p>
<p>Yep just upscale everything, the code stays the same. In basic terms the endstops let the printer know how big the build area is.</p>
<p>where can u get the steel smooth rods in au</p>
<p>China is your best bet</p>
<p>what printer did u print ure parts on</p>
How thick is the mdf?
<p>Just be wary with MDF as it is sensitive to moisture in the air and tends to shrink or grow depending on humidity levels. Highly recommend that it is painted or sealed on every face to limit the absorption...unless you enjoy re-calibrating after each run. I used acrylic sheet which is rock solid, can be drilled and tapped for screws and not overly sensitive to heat. I only ever have to recalibrate if I have to remove the hotend for maintenance...which is rare. </p>
Was the acrylic more expensive, and was it thick enough?
<p>I built a Mendel90 printer (self sourced parts, not a kit) and I got 10mm for the main base plate, 6mm for the hotbed plate, gantry and back plates. It is very rigid. It is more expensive than MDF but if you find a sign maker or otherwise business that uses acrylic sheet, they will normally have offcuts that will be big enough for this. </p>
It is 12mm thick
<p>&iquest;Qu&eacute; fuente de alimentaci&oacute;n se utiliza ?<br>Puedo usar una de 12v de PC</p>
<p>Do you have the .slt file of the clamps that join the Z-Axes Step Motor with the Threaded Rod? I can't seen to find it!</p>

About This Instructable




Bio: I'am a 18 years old guy from Germany who love to make things. Later I want to become an Electrical Engineer :-)
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