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Hello, in this instruction, I will show you how to make a 3D-Printer for less than 60€ (maybe the cheapest in the world)

I'm 16 Years old and I made everything by myself.

This 3D-Printer, works with the cheapest motors on the market (28Byj-48), for the electronics I use the Ramps 1.4 . It also has an all metal hotend for around 5€.

Specs:

Buildsize : 10x10x10cm

Travel speed: 20mm/s

Printspeed: 10mm/s

Resolution: 0.2mm

Update: 27.05.2016: Added new Files for Nema 17 Motors (Step 13)

Step 1: Parts: Mechanic

MDF-Plates:

-1x 30x34cm (Baseplate)

-2x 6x4cm

-1x 34x6cm

-1x 15x4cm

ca. 2 €

Aliexpress:

-12x LM8UU Aliexpress - 5.58€

-2x GT2 Pulley + 1m GT2 Belt Aliexpress -3.33€

-10x 624 Bearings Aliexpress 2.26€

-1x Mk8 DriveGear Aliexpress 0.89€

-1x PTFE tube Aliexpress 1.97€


8mm Smooth rods:

- 2x 22cm

- 4x 17,5cmkleinteileversand

--3.19€

Local Hardware Store

-1x M5 threaded rod

-2x M5 hex-nut

-8x M3x16mm screws

-6x M3x 25mm screws

-4x M4x45 screws

-2x M4x 60 screws

-4x M4x20 srews

-20xM4 Hex-Nuts

-10x M3 hex Nuts

-12x small woodscrews

ca. 6€

In Total: 17€

<p>Hallo</p><p>Still can't het the printer to work.</p><p>The X and Y are working, only for the Y I have an issue with the endstop I it keept on moving even if the endstop led illuminaties to indicatie that the carrage has reached the end.</p><p>The major problem is however with the z and the extruder stepper motors.</p><p>The z-axis I could get moving for a while when using the 3 jumper to have it run in 1/16 mode. However after a while no movement anymore ????</p><p>The Extruder stepper is true drama it vibrates (gets worse when increasing the voltage on the stepper driver pot's) or I get it moving but then it jumps steps all the time. I wired stepper and stepper drivers on other positions (X and Y) to verify if the stepper or the driver are fine and they are. When pluggen in on X or Y all is fine.</p><p>I tried adjusting the voltage on the stepper divers setting it to 0,5-0,6 volt but this is not improving, on low voltage no movement the high voltage results in skipping of steps and overheating.</p><p>Started fiddeling with some of the EEPROM settings but honestly I have no clue what I need to do.</p><p>Can you help me with my issue's?</p><p>Thanks,</p><p>Samuel</p>
<p>Hi,</p><p>You have to set the A4988 in full step mode for the Z-Axis. Then try to adjust the current of the motors and steps per mm. You need to find the perfect match between current and torge. The Eeprom can be adjusted in Repetier-Host. Here you can set the steps per mm for all the axis. </p><p>For example if your motors doesn't drive as long as you set, you have to increase the steps per mm for the specific axis. </p>
Hi<br><br>After setting the Z jumpers for full step my motors only move a fraction then stop. What are the likely causes? <br><br>Thanks
<p>Hallo</p><p>I needed to modify the steps/mm setting of my Z to make it move but will my dimensions now still work?</p><p>I mean the EEPROM says 2500 steps/mm and I needed to set it at 400 steps mm. What will be the effect of this if I try to print a 10x10x10 cube.</p><p>Extruder is still a problem no movement only vibration.</p><p>Samuel</p>
<p>Hallo</p><p><br>An update again, X and Y are OK, endstops are also OK. The Z I can move but very slow at first and at 400 steps per mm while the documentation of the printer indicaties 2500.<br><br>I can make it move faster if I increase the feedrate however then I have another strange effect, the stepper motor changes direction at random ???? however both stepper motors Z1 and Z2 are in sync.<br><br>The extruder is again a problem I exchanges its stepper driver (to check A4988 vs DRV8825 performance) switched it back and the vibration is there again no way to find a good setting of the steps/mm. documentatie indicates 145.5 my previous setting of 80 no longer works.<br><br>This thing is driving me crazy working on it for a few months now and still haven't printer anything.<br><br>Samuel</p>
<p>Hi,</p><p>if your motor changes direction randomly (in case we are talking about 28BYJ48 and not a NEMA17 type) the most possible issue is wrong connection. Don't rely on the wire colour. Different manufacturers - different wire color order. For me this issue was a little hell as well :) Double check this even on the motor's PCB. Vibration of extruder motor is of course much bigger than other small motors. Setting around 145 steps/mm should be OK. Driver trimmer pot has to be set at higher level than other motors (based on the fact that NEMA17 literally 'consumes more' than 28BYJ48 :) ) How much torque does your extruder motor have anyway? Send us a data about manufacturer and model of your motor if you don't know...</p><p>FireCrier out.</p>
Hey <br><br>17 Nema is a 17HS3401 holding torque is 28 N cm per min.<br><br>Seems now to be on the lower side correct ?<br><br>Samuel
<p>Hi, can you send me the size of your wood board that you are using? like where to cut it.</p>
<p>Hi folks !</p><p>Firstly, thank you Vulcaman for this tuto, you rules !</p><p>Secondly, I am making my own one following your instructions. Everything is connected and I could test every component individually (motors X/Y/Zs/extruder, Endstops, extruder, temperature probe, ...). But now, when I test all the components connected at their right place (with the test commands in the repeiter sw), the extruder motor doesn't work : no move, no vibration, no noise, nothing...<br>I use the EEPROM config given in the tuto without major modification, I tested the A4988 (OK) and the motor (OK). I also tried to adjust the current of the A4988 and to modify the micro-stepping : Still not working (no move, no vib, nothing...)</p><p>By the way, when I try to turn the rotor of this motor, it is a bit harder than when the motor is not powered, so I don't think that is a power supply issue.</p><p>Does anybody have the same issue ? Any solutions ?</p><p>Thanks in advance</p>
<p>Hey, so the problem is most likely the fact that the extruder stepper will not move unless the hot end is heated. If you want to make sure the extruder works, heat the hot end to the temperature you intend to print on (for PLA aprox. 210 degrees Celsius) and then you can test it. This is just a safety feature built into most 3d printer firmwares so that the extruder is not trying to feed filament when it cant actually extrude it. </p>
<p>Thank you etetan for your reply. ;)</p><p>I will test it and maybe print my first piece soon !</p>
<p>I received my clone hotend but I am having problems with the heater cartridge. I inserted the cartridge into the heating block and tightened the screw on the heater block as tight as I can, but the cartridge is not held fast. It keeps sliding back and forth and moves around.</p><p>Any possible solutions? </p>
<p>Replying to myself (in case it helps someone else):</p><p> I ended up using a normal M3 screw which is a bit longer than the hex screw that comes with the heat block. That tightened the heating block around the cartridge, so the cartridge isn't going to slip out and become a fire hazard anymore. Honestly, I am used to buying cheap &amp; shonky things from China. Buying a few crappy nano/pro mini/uno clones that may randomly die is one thing, but actually a heat cartridge that slips around in the block scares the hell out of me.</p><p>I have a feeling this may be just one of many surprises to come with this clone.</p>
<p>E3D makes a great hotend called the lite6. It has the benefits of owning a genuine E3D hotend (reliability) but at a fraction of what the v6 costs. only downside is it still has PTFE lining so its only good to go up to 240C. Great for PLA, not good for stuff like nylon</p>
<p>this is my printer</p>
<p>I like it! </p>
<p>can u add another extruder</p>
<p>You wouldnt want to with such a small build volume. You would basically be cutting the build volume by 1/4</p>
you can buy ready extruder pack from aliexpress
<p>Hi I am collecting money to buy all parts requiered to build Cherry 3D Printer but i dont have 3D Printer myself. Can i use wood pieces as replacement of plastic parts?</p>
<p>You make them out of wood and then if you want, print them with the printer you just made</p>
<p>Look at the comments above. Several people here made the genuine plastic parts entirely from wood. It's seems to be efficient.</p>
What did you use for the power supply?
<p>Id recommend a mean well 20A power supply for this build. </p>
<p>You can use an old ATX power supply. You just need to bridge the green and black wire. </p>
<p>What kind of wood was used for the print bed? It wasn't listed in the parts list, and definitely was MDF</p>
<p>You can use MDF though. ive build one of these using MDF for everything including the build plate</p>
<p>Looks like poplar multiplex </p>
<p>Sorry for my bad English. Do you have the .slt file of type Lead Screw Nut Brass Nut (Diameter: 8mm) that join the X-Axis (X-End.stl) with the Threaded Rod? I can't seen to find it!</p>
<p>Eerom settings &gt;&gt;Feed rate lower and lower acceleration. m8 screw 2560 step 3.5 100 and 1/2 microstep 5120 step 2 50 and try volts adjust motor run + 5 min bigger. try lower speed and accleration if works try bigger speed </p>
<p>Hi vulcaman could you share the design i kind of neeed it for my project</p>
<p>hi can you still get the printed parts</p>
<p>hey, do you still need the 3d printed parts? </p>
<p>Hi, i tried to test my cherry printer with 28BYJ-48 motors, could you tell me the jumper configuration for X, Y and Z please ?</p><p>I<br> tested : 1/16 for X and Y (1= no, 2=no and 3=yes) it seem to be ok, but<br> not working for Z, everytimes one of the motors stop. And with the <br>jumpers at 1/128 1=yes, 2=yes, 3=yes it-s to slow</p><p>Someone can help me please</p>
<p>The jumper configuration for the cherry printer with A4988 motordrivers are:</p><p>1/16 for X,Y and Extruder (1= yes,2= yes,3= yes)</p><p>full step for Z (1= no,2= no,3= no)</p>
<p>Please, how to program a more precise instructions</p>
Hello!<br>I've been busy with this 3D printer for a while now, but I've never been able to get the 3D printed parts. I've got a Witbox ready for use to print them, but the files that are used aren't proper to cooperate with the Witbox. Does anyone know how to tackle this problem?<br>Thanks in advance!<br>Thijs
<p>Hey</p><p>I am somewhere half of the build trying to connect a LCD Full Graphic smart controller but I can't make it work. Backlight is OK but that it.</p><p>Can anyone help me.</p><p>Thanks</p>
<p>take a look at this: <iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/H3wj9l1hvVw" width="500"></iframe></p><p>it's the tutorial i used when setting up an LCD for my main printer.</p>
<p>Hey</p><p>Hooking up worked but it seems to be an issue in the firmware. So you did not need to make any modifications in the firmware you just hooked it up?</p><p>Samuel</p>
<p>yeah, i had to enable the LCD in firmware. it's all in the video.</p>
If you Make everything twice as Big (for bigger build space) wil it still work?
<p>you'd probably only need to make the steel rods longer, and the build plate bigger.</p>
<p>Hi people.</p><p>i just finish yesterday to wire everything on my cherry printer. I then install repetier host and try to test each motor. </p><p>first, they are all very hot, i figure out that i have to set the voltage for each, i don't know how to do this, if someone could help me on this point ?</p><p>second, i actually succed only to move the Z motors. But they are very slow. i tried to set them to the home position, the whole axe only move for 10 mm down and stop. When i command an other movement down, it goes up ! :-/ I'm actually trying to understand the logic of this...</p><p>third, the X and Y motors absolutely don't move at all. Maybe i'm wrong in the wiring, i heard some whistle noise inside when i command them. The only thing they manage to do is getting really hot both but they don't move.</p><p>The firmware is the one linked here by vulcaman so i assume the settings are good.<br></p><p>last : aboslutely no move on the nema 17 extruder motor, no sound, and he remains cold, so i don't know if it's working or not...i saw that it's not supposed to move unless the hotend temperature is idle, i will try to otherpass this in order to test.</p><p>As i stated on another post, the wires color of the 28byj-48 motors are in a different order from the picture i can see here, i don't know in wich order i have to plug them on the ramp board. It appears i set them right for the z-axis, as they turn (but slowly), done the same wiring for X and Y but they are still stuck.</p><p>Any help would be really appreciate =)</p>
Hi, is who of Minsk (Belarus)? left only print themselves details printer :) everything else is already!
Is who of Minsk (Belarus)? left only print themselves details printer :) everything else is already!<br><br>Есть кто из Минска (Беларусь)? осталось только распечатать сами детали принтера :) все остальное уже есть!
<p>Im considering to build this for a school project. However i cant figure out how ou would print from the finished product? Am i supposed to buy a smart controller? And how would i attach everything?</p>
<p>Hi Vulcaman and many rhanks for this instructable</p><p>I'm actually building my own cherry printer and have a question about the endstops. Do i have to set them NC or NO ?</p><p>Also, about the unipolar to bipolar trick, for the 28BYJ-48 </p><p>So i desoldered the red wire; but the other cable seems to be in a different order from the pictures here</p><p>the order in your picture is : blue.pink.orange.yellow directly at the exit of the blue casing</p><p>the order in my motors is : pink blue yellow orange</p><p>So i assume that your blue is my pink, your pink is my blue and so on...</p><p>then if i want to connect the ramp board such as your blue--yellow--orange--pink code; then i have to set mine as pink-orange-yellow-blue</p><p>do you think it's correct ?</p><p>before doing stuff with it i would like to try them out, is there an easy way using the ramp and arduino to test the motors to see if they are well set ,</p><p>many thanks for the answer</p>
<p>Hi, i built your printer entirely out of wood because i had neither a 3D printer on hand nor do I know anyone who has one.</p><p>Now i faced the following problem:</p><p>The Z-axis moves about 10 steps without problems, but as soon as it should move more than this, it doesn't anymore. However, I can move the axis in multiple &quot;step-groups&quot; all the way up/down, wedging isn't the problem. So I increased the driver current to the max. The motors just get hotter, but it doesn't work any better.</p><p>Do you have any tips or have you even faced the same problem and solved it?</p><p>Thank you</p>
<p>Hola por favor que alguien me ayude, esta impresora no necesita cama caliente???</p>

About This Instructable

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Bio: I am an 18 years old guy from Germany who love to make things. Later I want to become an Electrical Engineer :-)
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