Hello, in this instruction, I will show you how to make a 3D-Printer for less than 60€ (maybe the cheapest in the world)

I'm 16 Years old and I made everything by myself.

This 3D-Printer, works with the cheapest motors on the market (28Byj-48), for the electronics I use the Ramps 1.4 . It also has an all metal hotend for around 5€.


Buildsize : 10x10x10cm

Travel speed: 20mm/s

Printspeed: 10mm/s

Resolution: 0.2mm

Update: 27.05.2016: Added new Files for Nema 17 Motors (Step 13)

Step 1: Parts: Mechanic


-1x 30x34cm (Baseplate)

-2x 6x4cm

-1x 34x6cm

-1x 15x4cm

ca. 2 €


-12x LM8UU Aliexpress - 5.58€

-2x GT2 Pulley + 1m GT2 Belt Aliexpress -3.33€

-10x 624 Bearings Aliexpress 2.26€

-1x Mk8 DriveGear Aliexpress 0.89€

-1x PTFE tube Aliexpress 1.97€

8mm Smooth rods:

- 2x 22cm

- 4x 17,5cmkleinteileversand


Local Hardware Store

-1x M5 threaded rod

-2x M5 hex-nut

-8x M3x16mm screws

-6x M3x 25mm screws

-4x M4x45 screws

-2x M4x 60 screws

-4x M4x20 srews

-20xM4 Hex-Nuts

-10x M3 hex Nuts

-12x small woodscrews

ca. 6€

In Total: 17€


<p>Hola que tal imprimi mi primer pieza en mi version de cherry pero sale chueca imprimi un cubo pero cuando se termina de imprimir el cubo sale de lado como la puedo calibrar alguien sabe</p>
Hi what is your email? I have a private concern . Nothing bad. Just want to share in private.<br>Kind regards. You are as old as me and you do well???
<p>You have a private message. Check your inbox here on instructables.</p>
<p>Hi,</p><p>thanks to Vulcaman for this Instructable! Some important informations are missing, which increased the build time for me, but i also learned a lot, while searching for this informations.</p><p>It found 3D printers very interesting, but would never have spent 300&euro; or more. The prices was the only reason i build one!</p><p>While the build process i learned how disgusting slow these steppers are and decided to use NEMA 17 for X and Y.</p><p>I reworked the Y-carriage and construced a X-Motor-carriage.<br>I also constructed a Z-endstop-holder to get rid of the cable ties, shortened the hotend-clamp and did some other slight modifications.</p><p>Now i am able to print up to 150mm/s, but used only 60/80mm/s (perimeter/infill) until now.</p><p>The printer actually has 2 problems:<br>-The PLA is not cooled and is not hardening fast enough<br>-I used 3mm filament, but the extruder cant handle it and is slipping. (Too much force is needed) I will change it and use 1,75mm in near future.</p><p>At the end i think, i spent around 80&euro; and a lot of time for printing the parts with a leaned printer and building everything as accurate as possible.</p>
<p>Espa&ntilde;ol: como se llama el papel azul que tienes en la cama de tu impresora?</p><p>English: What's the blue paper do you have in the bed of your printer?</p>
It's TESA outdoor masking tape 4439
<p>Hey Bender could I get your EEPROM data, every time I set my x and y speed to 500 m/s it tries to print somewhere off the print bed. . .</p>
<p>500m/s is way to much. If you mean 500mm/s, it is still too much!</p><p>Try to start with 20mm/s and reduce the acceleration.</p>
<p>Update:</p><p>I printed a new fanduct, added LEDs and a selfmade heatbed for printing ABS. (I am still below 100&euro;)<br>The heating is made of some high power resistors (118W in sum), glued to the bottom of the plate, who reach 100 degrees in 8 minutes.</p><p>I also have a video (PLA) avaliable:</p><p><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/oVHkzdN7KEw" width="500"></iframe></p>
<p>Can you send arduino files?</p>
<p>Love your printer. Is it possible that you can upload your modifications to Thingiverse? Thanks </p>
<p>Your printer is awesome for that budget. The results are very accurate. Respect !</p>
Thank you very much, i never would have build one without this instructable. I tried to improve the accuracy and reducing the tolerances of assembling very long time.
<p>So i am also using nema 17 stepper motors for controlling the x y and z axis instead of the </p><p>28byj-48 Steppermotors could you tell me what modifications you did to the code, or settings you changed to allow for a faster speed?</p><p>Thanx </p>
<p>Nothing special! You just have to calibrate the steps per mm and then u can set the maximum speed for X and Y in repetier firmware or eeprom. try also some different acceleration values. (500mm/s&sup2; works fine for me)</p><p>I reach 300mm/s travel speed. (Havent tried more)</p>
<p>oh i get it, thanx for the reply amazing work by the way</p>
<p>Hello! Nice work. One question. Do you want to send a 3D model for nema holder on X axis...</p>
<p>Great idea with the Nema 17 Motors for the X/Y Axis . Nice work and a good testprint !</p>
<p>Great idea with the Nema 17 Motors for the X/Y Axis . Nice work and a good testprint !</p>
<p>Build size: 155x100x120 (X,Y,Z)</p>
<p>Kann das sein das es bei mir ein fehler gibt? Wenn ich einen Druckauftrag starte setzt er dem Homepunkt auf null und bewegt alle motoren zum NULL Punkt Problem ist Z der kommt an den END Stop und der Cherry geht aus danach geht nach neu Starten des Auftrages alles wieder von vorne los.</p>
<p>3D Printer- Cherry XL 200x200x150 with heated bed. We are in the middle of calibration. This is some test print. Thanks to Vulcaman</p>
good job can you send arduino files please I need this
<p>Can you post more photos and maybe a video, would really love to see more</p>
<p>Hey. The XL Version looks great. Did you just change the size of the MDF Plates and the rods? Would you mind posting the dimensions for your 200x200 version?</p>
<p>Dimensions are there</p>
<p>Hi mate, very good and cheap design, I have already built it :) having only one problem, can you please help me?</p><p>I manually put Z into 100 in repetier, but in real it will go up only by 1cm. So it looks like it is moving it only by 1/10th of possible area. I have imported your eeprom, havent changed anything, but was trying to adjust Zax steps per mm, but with no luck... (I havent used any different material, everything same as yours. Thank you</p>
<p>Solved: edited Z axis steps per mm to 80000, so 10 times more than normal (because I put DRV8825)</p>
<p>just to mention, X and Y are ok. They move 10cm both</p>
<p>Friends I have a big problem, the cherry 3d ago microscopic prints, manually moving the motors move, but launched the press me from this problem ask for help</p>
<p>If the prints are smaller than expected, check to make sure the units in your CAD program are exporting correctly. Another problem could be your micro-stepping settings. Make sure when you are calculating your axis resolution, you are taking your micro-stepping into consideration, otherwise the scale of the parts will be off by a multiple of 2. </p>
Anybody have problems with comunication port?<br>&quot;Warning missed lines...&quot;?
<p>What program are you printing with. Id suggest changing the baud rate and also making sure there is no electromagnetic interference near the USB cable, so keep the USB cable away from the power supply, and as far as possible from any wire leading to motors. Let us know if any of these solutions work</p>
Hi,<br><br>I use Repetier host v 1.6.2<br><br>I move the cables far away as possible from USB connector. But The problem happens again.<br><br>I tried to change the bauds in the firmaware and the options in Repetier, but I can't connect with the printer if I change it. It works at 115200 or lower. But problem happens again.
<p>Hmm, have you tried any other printer applications such as simplify3D (yeah it costs money but there are ways around the cost if you know what im saying ;)</p>
<p>how do you set up the firmware on the arduino? I've never done anything like this before, please help.</p>
<p>Hi,</p><p>The first thing you need to do is download the Arduino Intergrated Development Environment (IDE for short) for whichever OS you are using. You can download the Arduino IDE from the Arduino support site here:</p><p><a href="https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software" rel="nofollow">https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software<br></a></p><p>If you look at the top right-hand side of the webpage you'll see there are 32 &amp; 64 bit versions for whichever OS you use. Once you've downloaded the version of the IDE that is appropriate for your OS, you then install it on your computer. To understand what you need to do for the installation, go here:</p><p><a href="https://www.arduino.cc/en/Guide/HomePage" rel="nofollow">https://www.arduino.cc/en/Guide/HomePage<br></a></p><p>Read through the guide which is appropriate for whatever OS you are using. </p><p>*The other thing you will need to install on your computer if it is Mac or Windows is a driver for serial communication with your Chinese arduino mega board. The Chinese mega clones use their own CH34*** chips rather than the standard FTDI chips, so you need to download and install the appropriate serial driver for your OS frrom here:</p><p><a href="http://wch.cn/download/CH341SER_ZIP.html" rel="nofollow">http://wch.cn/download/CH341SER_ZIP.html</a></p><p>[if anyone knows of a better place to get the drivers, please share]. :-)</p><p>If you have any problems with installing the IDE or the serial driver, then head over to the arduino forum and ask for help there:</p><p><a href="https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?PHPSESSID=t06p2sqv7lc9g0s22rsiv6qdc5&board=2.0" rel="nofollow">https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?PHPSESSID=t06p2sqv7lc9g0s22rsiv6qdc5&amp;board=2.0<br></a></p><p>Now, once you have done all of the above, you can unzip Vulcaman's </p><p><a href="http://www.instructables.com/files/orig/FQ8/OMTO/IL5J70MW/FQ8OMTOIL5J70MW.zip" rel="nofollow">Cherry 3D Printer.zip</a> file. Open the arduino IDE program and click on File-&gt;Open, then navigate to your unzipped Repetier folder. In that folder, find the file called repetier.ino and open it. Don't make any changes to it. </p><p>Now click on Tools on the menu bar. Scroll down to Board and choose Arduino Mega. Also under Tools, choose a port. This is the port that you will use to upload Vulcaman's firmware (aka the repetier.ino file) to the arduino mega.</p><p>Now click on the tick button under the menu. This will compile the firmware so that it's ready to run on your arduino. If there are no compiling errors, all is well.</p><p>Next click on the right-pointing arrow next to the tick button. This will upload the firmware onto the mega.</p><p>I hope this helps a bit. If not, I refer you to the arduino &quot;Installation and Trouble-shooting&quot; forum.</p><p>Cheers<br></p>
<p>Pretty much, just upload the firmware to the board and thats it. In the firmware file provided on this page, there is a file called repetier.ino, run it and upload to the arduino mega</p>
<p>How did you attach the screw rods to the motor spindles? there're no parts that might look like the ones you've used. Could you please share?</p>
<p>You can buy 5mm to 5mm couplers from aliexpress, id suggest that</p>
<p>Hello, could someone tell me where VREF adjustment for 28BYJ 48-by-48 28BYJ 5v and 12v and nema 17 1.8A</p><p>Thank you</p>
<p>To adjust VREF, you need to adjust the pots on the stepsticks </p>
Hi, 28BYJ 48 is 5v and you need to change the 28BYJ-48 from unipolar to bipolar. Nema 17 is 12v you can connect directly.
You can buy from aliexpress or ebay
Does your printer have a hotbed? Because it looks like there's none in this instructable. And no hotbed cost included in total printer cost.<br>How do you print without hotbed?
<p>You could print on blue painters tape. It sticks well and works for parts that fit within this build area, however, any larger and i would highly recommend getting a heated bed and printing on kapton tape</p>
<p>Perfectly well if you're using PLA:</p><p>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Kwd5aaFLBo</p>
​Hi,<br><br>Some one solved problems with communication port?<br><br>A lot of &quot;Warning: Missed line detected - correcting buffer usage.&quot; make me fail prints.

About This Instructable




Bio: I am an 18 years old guy from Germany who love to make things. Later I want to become an Electrical Engineer :-)
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