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Hello, in this instruction, I will show you how to make a 3D-Printer for less than 60€ (maybe the cheapest in the world)

I'm 16 Years old and I made everything by myself.

This 3D-Printer, works with the cheapest motors on the market (28Byj-48), for the electronics I use the Ramps 1.4 . It also has an all metal hotend for around 5€.

Specs:

Buildsize : 10x10x10cm

Travel speed: 20mm/s

Printspeed: 10mm/s

Resolution: 0.2mm

Update: 27.05.2016: Added new Files for Nema 17 Motors (Step 13)

Step 1: Parts: Mechanic

MDF-Plates:

-1x 30x34cm (Baseplate)

-2x 6x4cm

-1x 34x6cm

-1x 15x4cm

ca. 2 €

Aliexpress:

-12x LM8UU Aliexpress - 5.58€

-2x GT2 Pulley + 1m GT2 Belt Aliexpress -3.33€

-10x 624 Bearings Aliexpress 2.26€

-1x Mk8 DriveGear Aliexpress 0.89€

-1x PTFE tube Aliexpress 1.97€


8mm Smooth rods:

- 2x 22cm

- 4x 17,5cmkleinteileversand

--3.19€

Local Hardware Store

-1x M5 threaded rod

-2x M5 hex-nut

-8x M3x16mm screws

-6x M3x 25mm screws

-4x M4x45 screws

-2x M4x 60 screws

-4x M4x20 srews

-20xM4 Hex-Nuts

-10x M3 hex Nuts

-12x small woodscrews

ca. 6€

In Total: 17€

<p>Question for people who have finished making their Cherry printers: did you choose the Chinese clone E3D-V6 recommended in this tutorial, and if so do you think it's worth buying?</p><p>Just spent some time reading the reprap forums and seeing loads of people saying that the clones get clogged nozzles. </p>
I have clones on both of my printers and have never had a clogged nozzle.<br>
<p>Gadget-man, do you recall where you bought yours? Was it Ali-express, or ebay or someplace else? TIA</p>
<p>Pretty sure It's was aliexpress maybe bangood.com. I got them at different times from different vendors but they both work just fine.</p>
im pretty sure it was aliexpress but i also get things on banggood,com.<br>i bought them at seperate times from seperate vendors and have never had any trouble.<br>
<p>Do you need to have some previous experience with 3d printers before you start building your own ?</p>
It is strongly recommended
<p>Thank you both very much. I will try some day to build it.</p>
<p>Like VectorRobo said, it does make it a lot easier, but prior experience shouldn't be completely necessary. If you've got a good basic understanding of computers and electronics, then you should be able to get it put together and working.</p>
The linked motors are rated at 5v, are they being run at 12v?<br><br>There are 12v versions of these little steppers available on Aliexpress for about the same price.
<p>Very interesting read. The design is solid in concept, but could use some improvements to bolster the sturdiness over the long haul. I'd suggest trying to find a means of securing some of the structural and moving components with something other than zip ties, as those have a tendency to stretch over time, and don't necessarily provide a means for securing moving stuff long-term.</p><p>I've been looking for a project like this for a few weeks now, and I think yours is by far the most practical thus far. Once I get everything else, I'll be contacting you about either printing me the plastic pieces, or at least to get your assistance in replicating them in metal or some other medium (I'm considering CNC aluminum).</p>
How thick is the mdf?
<p>Just be wary with MDF as it is sensitive to moisture in the air and tends to shrink or grow depending on humidity levels. Highly recommend that it is painted or sealed on every face to limit the absorption...unless you enjoy re-calibrating after each run. I used acrylic sheet which is rock solid, can be drilled and tapped for screws and not overly sensitive to heat. I only ever have to recalibrate if I have to remove the hotend for maintenance...which is rare. </p>
It is 12mm thick
<p>Nice design, but I do have one little minus for it</p><p>Having built a 3D printer using the 5mm threaded rod, I can assure you they are never straight and will lead to problems down the track, it would have been far better to have used lead rods, so much smother in the movement and so much quieter.</p>
Do you really need the endstops? Has anyone built this without them?
<p>No, endstops are not necessary. You jog to the center of the board, set the nozzle to a paper-thickness above the board, and send a &quot;G92 X0 Y0 Z0.01, you can set the coordinates just fine. If the printer is accurate, and the slicer is set to match the build area, you really don't need them.</p>
<p>It is possible like srhnz said, but it takes a lot of time to set up, and if you need to recalibrate you wish that you used endstops :P</p>
<p>Endstops provide a home point. Without them, the controller doesn't know where 0,0,0 is on any of its axiis,. You can get away with no limiting end stops but the RAMPS software has to be carefully set to use a max distance from the home point as the outer limits. </p>
<p>It doesn't work without endstops. </p>
Endstops are very important, because the printer can destroy itself by spinning the motors to far
<p>I love this. I'm gonna build one just for the hell of it! Thanks for the article.</p>
<p>Very nice 'Ible! I have to complement you on your excellent picture and instructions. Also for including part numbers in your parts list, 'cause links don't always stay good forever. ;) I've been wanting a 3D printer for a while, but all the &quot;cheap&quot; DIY printers I've found have either been not so cheap, low quality, or look like trash. This one looks great, seems to have usable quality, and is, by far, the cheapest one I've found. I'll have to make it sometime soon!</p>
<p>Where I can find the printed parts?</p>
he has links to thingiverse
<p>You have the 3d files on the page.you will have to ask someone to print them to you.</p>
<p>Thanks!</p>
<p>Can someone post a picture of their ramps board with everything connected? I'd like to double-check my wiring, particularly the 28BYJ-48 motors, before I fire it up. The only remaining step is wiring up an old PC PSU.</p>
<p>Also curious where to connect the small extruder fan.</p>
<p>you connect it directly to the 12V Output from your PSU</p>
<p>Ok, problems. First, the extruder heater. I've tried twice, the first time I got an error at about 78C. The second time it got up to about 101C, with the following log:</p><p>21:58:37.872 : Error:One heater seems decoupled from thermistor - disabling all for safety!</p><p>21:58:37.877 : Error:Temp. raised to slow. Rise = -1.91 after 13079 ms</p><p>21:58:37.883 : Disabling all heaters due to detected sensor defect.</p><p>Second: None of the steppers are doing anything. I can send G-codes and Repetier seems to be doing it's thing, but nothing moves. Connections are not loose, and are connected according to the RepRap image.</p><p>Suggestions? Google just gets me results for store-bought printers where people messed up factory settings and have to reset them.</p>
<p>Nobody? </p>
<p>check pot settings on the stepper drivers. If set too low, they will not provide enough current to power them. Check out the reprap forums for how-to on setting up the drivers without nuking them...which is easy to do if you are not careful.</p>
<p>OK, so here's the problems with Aliexpress sellers: I ordered my arduino mega clone + RAMPS shield + stepper drivers from the seller recommended in the tutorial. Today, these turned up. Problem is, the ramps board is labelled &quot;RAMPS 1.4A&quot;. I am going to assume that the &quot;RAMPS 1.4A&quot; label is a silk screen error...</p><p>Quick questions for the people who have their Chinese ramps shields (non &quot;1.4A&quot; hopefully):</p><p>1) MOSFETS - my 3 are all labelled IRF3205. Are yours the same?</p><p>2) Fuses - mine are labelled UF900 &amp; UF500. Are yours the same?</p><p>The smaller polyfuse on my board looks to have been damaged during soldering so I'll have to replace it. :-(</p><p>The joys of buying electronics from China. :-P</p>
<p>I think this would not be a problem. I've allready used a Ramps 1.4A in one of my printers. </p>
<p>Nice job! Clean installation. Can you use two different types of media, not familiar with the terminology, ie. plastics? since you have 2 extruders, two colors?</p>
<p>Awesome work..great job..Vulcaman :).....do anybody know any resources to inspect and troubleshoot my clone RAMPS v1.4 branded UltiMachine, &amp; clone Arduino MEGA2560?</p>
<p>Great job and thanks a lot for sharing! Almost finished here, need to troubleshoot now! :)<br></p>
<p>Hey, so first of all, this isn't the final design of my printer. Eventually, I will be constructing the frame out of 3/8&quot; aluminum plate to stiffen everything up and replacing a lot of parts. The build volume has been increased to 15x15x15. All motors on this printer are NEMA 17s (including the z axis). I am printing at 60mm/s without any problems (See Note), even the motors and RAMPS/Arduino stay cool even during long prints thanks to a few cooling fans. I am using an E3D Lite6 to avoid the problems generally experienced by purchasing a knockoff E3D hotend from China. I've added an LCD screen with an SD card reader so that I don't have to have my laptop connected the entire time to print. All in all I am very happy with this project and I do not feel I could have done this without this article. Even though I've veered off from the original design, it was what inspired me in the first place.</p><p>Attached are a few pictures of the printer and examples of things I've printed on it. The Totoro and the adjustable wrench were both printed using wood filled PLA. The Totoro was printed on medium settings in Simplify3D and is completely unfinished. The wrench was printed on high settings and has been sanded, painted and stained. The blue plastic piece is for a cooling fan (medium settings, Hatchbox blue PLA) I will eventually be adding in.</p><p>Thanks</p><p>**Note*** You will need to purchase a higher torque NEMA 17 motor for the extruder. I made the mistake of buying a NEMA 17 rated at only 0.4 Amps. It is great for driving the axis, but the extruder skips steps. Id recommend one rated at 1.5 Amps.</p>
<p>Hi there, please could you point me to the Thingiverse page for the blue hot end fan nozzle? I'm looking for one like that. Thanks!</p>
<p>Etetan, thank you for sharing your experience of the E3D Lite6.</p>
<p>I can't find .stl file for this part please provide it<br></p>
<p>I think this is the .stl file you are looking for: </p><p>http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:9622 </p>
<p>Hmm, just replying to my own reply here. I just read through every post on this thread going back 1 year. The coupler between the 28byj-48 and the threaded rod can be:</p><p>SmartRap coupler: <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:252133" rel="nofollow"> http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:252133</a></p><p>Further down in the thread (Solarmax) also designed a coupler: </p><p><a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1054536" rel="nofollow">http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1054536</a></p><p>Just putting this info here in case I need it myself later. ;-)</p>
<p>Not sure where that file is located but you could try printing this http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:396781/#comments. Print the file named tapered_coupler_5_5mm.stl and it should work fine. They also sell couplings like this one all over aliexpress and ebay</p>
<p>Thanks</p>
<p>what dimensions of rods did you use?</p><p>Im thinking on 230mm XY axis but i am not sure</p>
<p>Youre very close actually. Im using 225mm rods. I just added 50mm to the rods of the cherry printer to add 50mm extra build volume</p>
<p>Nice bro! Also, have you thought about using cooling fans?</p>

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Bio: I'am a 17 years old guy from Germany who love to make things. Later I want to become an Electrical Engineer :-)
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