Cherry- 60€ 3D-Printer

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Introduction: Cherry- 60€ 3D-Printer

Hello, in this instruction, I will show you how to make a 3D-Printer for less than 60€ (maybe the cheapest in the world)

I'm 16 Years old and I made everything by myself.

This 3D-Printer, works with the cheapest motors on the market (28Byj-48), for the electronics I use the Ramps 1.4 . It also has an all metal hotend for around 5€.

Specs:

Buildsize : 10x10x10cm

Travel speed: 20mm/s

Printspeed: 10mm/s

Resolution: 0.2mm

Update: 27.05.2016: Added new Files for Nema 17 Motors (Step 13)

Update: 21.01.2018:

### Now You can purchase all the 3D-Printed Parts on my Website: https://www.vulcaman.de/ ###

Step 1: Parts: Mechanic

MDF-Plates:

-1x 30x34cm (Baseplate)

-2x 6x4cm

-1x 34x6cm

-1x 15x4cm

ca. 2 €

Aliexpress:

-12x LM8UU Aliexpress - 5.58€

-2x GT2 Pulley + 1m GT2 Belt Aliexpress -3.33€

-10x 624 Bearings Aliexpress 2.26€

-1x Mk8 DriveGear Aliexpress 0.89€

-1x PTFE tube Aliexpress 1.97€


8mm Smooth rods:

- 2x 22cm

- 4x 17,5cmkleinteileversand

--3.19€

Local Hardware Store

-1x M5 threaded rod

-2x M5 hex-nut

-8x M3x16mm screws

-6x M3x 25mm screws

-4x M4x45 screws

-2x M4x 60 screws

-4x M4x20 srews

-20xM4 Hex-Nuts

-10x M3 hex Nuts

-12x small woodscrews

ca. 6€

In Total: 17€

Step 2: Parts: Electronic

Electronic:

-1x Arduino Mega 2560 + Ramps 1.4 + 4x A4988 Aliexpress 16.87€

-4x 28byj-48 Steppermotor Ebay 1.44€

-3x Endstop

-1x Nema 17 (I found my Motor in a old desktop printer, which I found on the scrapyard)

Hotend:

-1x E3D-V5 Aliexpress 5.00€

or

-1x E3D-V6 Aliexpress 11.00€

In Total: 27.63€

Electronic + Mechanics= 44.63€

Step 3: Printed Parts

Please download the latest files from Thingiverse

2x "Z-Motor"

2x "Y-End"

2x "X-End"

1x "X-Carriage"

1x "Motor"

1x "Hotend"

1x "Hotend Clamp"

1x Bowden Extruder by benni (You can download the Files at the bottom of this step)

### You can purchase all the 3D-Printed Parts on my Website: https://www.vulcaman.de/ ###

Step 4: Modify the 28BYJ-48 Steppermotor

To change the 28BYJ-48 from unipolar to bipolar, you need to open the blue plastic case.

After that cut the the connection and desolder the red wire (see pictures).

Then solder the wires in this order:

blue--yellow--orange--pink

After this hack, you can connect these motors directly to Ramps 1.4.

Step 5: Y-Axis

At first, you need to glue the wood plates together.

After that, place the printed parts " Motor ", "Z-Motor" on the wood plates.

Then you screw the printed parts down.

After that you put the motor in it, then the LM8UU.

For the motor, you put the pulley on it and connect the 624zz bearings.

For the LM8UU, you use some zip ties.

Then you put the two 17,5cm 8mm smooth rods in it.

At last you assemble the belt to the "Y-ends" and mount the endstop.

Step 6: X-Axis

For the X-Axis, you need to :

- put two M4x45mm into the "X-End"

- connect the motor, like you see on the pictures

- thighten the belt and mount the endstop.

- connect the hotend with two M3x25 Screws + Nuts

Step 7: Z-Axis

To assemble the Z-Axis, you need to:

Put the LM8UU into the "X-Carriage" + " X-Ends"

Then put the "X-Ends" + "X-carriage" with the 17.5cm smooth rods (X-Axis) and 21cm smooth rods (Z-Axis) together

After that you screw the threaded rod with the motor together.

Step 8: Make the Printbed

You drill four 3mm holes in to the 20x13cm wood plate.

After that you screw four M3x25 screws in it.

Step 9: Put Everything Together

Step 10: Connect the Electronic

Connect the electronic, like you see on the picture.

Step 11: Firmware


Update 29.02.2016:
Here is the latest Firmware for the Cherry 3D-Printer.

  • This time I'am using the latest Repetier Firmware 0.92.8.
  • I enabled Eeprom so you can easily change basic parameters

What you need to do:

  • Upload the pre-configurated firmware to your arduino mega 2560
  • Then open Repetier Host, go to the top left corner, open configurations and then you can load the Eeprom file with all the important parameters

Where can I adjust the parameters?

  • If you have some basic parameters to change (steps per mm, feedrate, acceleration...), open your Repetierhost, and go to Configuration --> Eeprom

Step 12: Photos From Print

After some calibration, I have printed a good 1x1x1cm calibration cube.

Resolution: 0.2mm

Speed: 10mm/s

During the calibration, I found out, that when the motors get too hot, I have extremly layershifting.

So you need to set the A4988 to 1/16 microstepping and adjust the current, to a minimum.

Also play a little bit with the backlash in the repetier-firmware.

More pictures from print coming soon :-)

Step 13: Nema 17 for X,Y and Z Axis

I made some new parts for the X and Y Axis, that you can easily attach Nema 17 Motors to your Cherry-Printer

For the Z-Axis, please use the files from CrimsoRo who made a great job :-)

You can download the files for X and Y below.

21 People Made This Project!

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Questions & Answers

737 Comments

Sorry for my bad English. Do you have the .slt file of type Lead Screw Nut Brass Nut (Diameter: 8mm) that join the X-Axis (X-End.stl) with the Threaded Rod? I can't seen to find it!

For those types of rod I recommend printing a z-wobble addon...this way the z rod only lifts the X carraige and is not physically connected to the mechanism...it is allowed to "float" on the smoothrods independent of the z rods, which means if z rods are not perfectly straight it won't push/pull the x carraige sideways screwing up the prints
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1343361

Hi all

Can any one help me for printing objects i will pay for that.

i am from india if any one done or can print this objects please give me replay.

Thanks In advance.

Siva

Finally made it!!! Took me 6 months with all the stuff in my life but finally made it.
I'm using a probe for the z axis cause my bed isn't that flat. Also made the axes a bit longer and yet with everything I get 100/150/100 volume. Made the adjustments for a marlin version... if anyone needs it let me know. Also I'm working with slic3r and still fiddling with the settings but the result so far isn't that bad. :)
Thank you Vulcaman for posting this Instructable!

Hello guyz, does "Download PDF" include extra files or steps? I mean do i need that or this page concludes everything for construction?

Where is STL file of this part? please ((

can you please suggest power supply rating V? A?

I have found one massive issue with your pieces on Thingiverse. Have you ever heard of TOLERANCE? The pieces you have designed for this project have almost zero tolerance. This is a huge flaw since the majority of people who would want to make this design don't have great printers. Even on a good printer, doing 0.2 mm layer height is not feasible since the tolerance level is so perfectly fitted to the pieces that have to go inside of it that the tolerance at 0.2 is not good enough. If you were to take the existing pieces, and make the tolerance just a bit better, i'm sure it would make it much easier for all of the people who want to make this prionter to actually make it.

About to start the printing process, have to wait 13-40 Days for all the parts to arrive from China, Sending my thanks all the way from Australia for sharing this with the world!

Majority of parts printed, Some curling quite a bit however not affecting how the printer is assembled. Will post photos in the coming days. Also ordered some longer linear rails that have given me some extra length for all three axis.