Hello, in this instruction, I will show you how to make a 3D-Printer for less than 60€ (maybe the cheapest in the world)

I'm 16 Years old and I made everything by myself.

This 3D-Printer, works with the cheapest motors on the market (28Byj-48), for the electronics I use the Ramps 1.4 . It also has an all metal hotend for around 5€.


Buildsize : 10x10x10cm

Travel speed: 20mm/s

Printspeed: 10mm/s

Resolution: 0.2mm

Update: 27.05.2016: Added new Files for Nema 17 Motors (Step 13)

Step 1: Parts: Mechanic


-1x 30x34cm (Baseplate)

-2x 6x4cm

-1x 34x6cm

-1x 15x4cm

ca. 2 €


-12x LM8UU Aliexpress - 5.58€

-2x GT2 Pulley + 1m GT2 Belt Aliexpress -3.33€

-10x 624 Bearings Aliexpress 2.26€

-1x Mk8 DriveGear Aliexpress 0.89€

-1x PTFE tube Aliexpress 1.97€

8mm Smooth rods:

- 2x 22cm

- 4x 17,5cmkleinteileversand


Local Hardware Store

-1x M5 threaded rod

-2x M5 hex-nut

-8x M3x16mm screws

-6x M3x 25mm screws

-4x M4x45 screws

-2x M4x 60 screws

-4x M4x20 srews

-20xM4 Hex-Nuts

-10x M3 hex Nuts

-12x small woodscrews

ca. 6€

In Total: 17€

Step 2: Parts: Electronic


-1x Arduino Mega 2560 + Ramps 1.4 + 4x A4988 Aliexpress 16.87€

-4x 28byj-48 Steppermotor Ebay 1.44€

-3x Endstop

-1x Nema 17 (I found my Motor in a old desktop printer, which I found on the scrapyard)


-1x E3D-V5 Aliexpress 5.00€


-1x E3D-V6 Aliexpress 11.00€

In Total: 27.63€

Electronic + Mechanics= 44.63€

Step 3: Printed Parts

Please download the latest files from Thingiverse

2x "Z-Motor"

2x "Y-End"

2x "X-End"

1x "X-Carriage"

1x "Motor"

1x "Hotend"

1x "Hotend Clamp"

1x Bowden Extruder by benni (You can download the Files at the bottom of this step)

###If you have problems with getting the printed parts, feel free to contact me :-). I can print them out for you.###

Step 4: Modify the 28BYJ-48 Steppermotor

To change the 28BYJ-48 from unipolar to bipolar, you need to open the blue plastic case.

After that cut the the connection and desolder the red wire (see pictures).

Then solder the wires in this order:


After this hack, you can connect these motors directly to Ramps 1.4.

Step 5: Y-Axis

At first, you need to glue the wood plates together.

After that, place the printed parts " Motor ", "Z-Motor" on the wood plates.

Then you screw the printed parts down.

After that you put the motor in it, then the LM8UU.

For the motor, you put the pulley on it and connect the 624zz bearings.

For the LM8UU, you use some zip ties.

Then you put the two 17,5cm 8mm smooth rods in it.

At last you assemble the belt to the "Y-ends" and mount the endstop.

Step 6: X-Axis

For the X-Axis, you need to :

- put two M4x45mm into the "X-End"

- connect the motor, like you see on the pictures

- thighten the belt and mount the endstop.

- connect the hotend with two M3x25 Screws + Nuts

Step 7: Z-Axis

To assemble the Z-Axis, you need to:

Put the LM8UU into the "X-Carriage" + " X-Ends"

Then put the "X-Ends" + "X-carriage" with the 17.5cm smooth rods (X-Axis) and 21cm smooth rods (Z-Axis) together

After that you screw the threaded rod with the motor together.

Step 8: Make the Printbed

You drill four 3mm holes in to the 20x13cm wood plate.

After that you screw four M3x25 screws in it.

Step 9: Put Everything Together

Step 10: Connect the Electronic

Connect the electronic, like you see on the picture.

Step 11: Firmware

Update 29.02.2016:
Here is the latest Firmware for the Cherry 3D-Printer.

  • This time I'am using the latest Repetier Firmware 0.92.8.
  • I enabled Eeprom so you can easily change basic parameters

What you need to do:

  • Upload the pre-configurated firmware to your arduino mega 2560
  • Then open Repetier Host, go to the top left corner, open configurations and then you can load the Eeprom file with all the important parameters

Where can I adjust the parameters?

  • If you have some basic parameters to change (steps per mm, feedrate, acceleration...), open your Repetierhost, and go to Configuration --> Eeprom

Step 12: Photos From Print

After some calibration, I have printed a good 1x1x1cm calibration cube.

Resolution: 0.2mm

Speed: 10mm/s

During the calibration, I found out, that when the motors get too hot, I have extremly layershifting.

So you need to set the A4988 to 1/16 microstepping and adjust the current, to a minimum.

Also play a little bit with the backlash in the repetier-firmware.

More pictures from print coming soon :-)

Step 13: Nema 17 for X,Y and Z Axis

I made some new parts for the X and Y Axis, that you can easily attach Nema 17 Motors to your Cherry-Printer

For the Z-Axis, please use the files from CrimsoRo who made a great job :-)

You can download the files for X and Y below.

I made it special thanks to vulcaman
<p>where did you get part ,that connects Z-motor with threaded rod ?</p>
I made it myself u can try a 5 mm 5 mm coupler
Hi all. First of all; great project. I am very new to this and had some quetions. Mainly what is the purpose of the nema 17 stepper? Does it feed the print medium? my second query is about the stepper motor hack, is this a necessary step as I may wish to reuse them in another project. Thirdly, for the PSU any recommendations?
<p>Hi everybody ! That's me again ^^'</p><p>Thanks to etetan's answer, I could make some progress but there is still a little step to do in order to print correctly my first piece.</p><p>When I start printing a piece, no problem ! Everything seems working well... but after few minutes, the extrudder motor skids on the filament. Nothing else goes out from the extruder. The extruder nozzle is blocked.</p><p>So, I bought new extruder nozzles (0.6mm instead of 0.3mm). But same results after a little more time.</p><p>I use 1.75mm PLA filament heated up to 210&deg;C. (enclosed you can find temperature curves and extruder EEPROM parameters, problem came at 52minutes).</p><p>Does anybody have the same issue ? Any solutions to fix it ?</p><p>Thanks in advance</p>
<p>Would anybody be interesting in purchasing the 3d printed parts if I were to print them out? I am willing to but only if there is some demand to do so. I would sell all the parts for about $20-$25 CAD and sell them on ebay. Reply to this comment if you are interested</p>
<p>Please do, I don't have a 3D printer and really want to build this project. </p><p>Could you post the link if you are going to sell the parts</p>
<p>I'd buy it for $20 CAD</p>
<p>What printer would you print it on, what filament would you use?</p>
<p>Its one i built out of aluminum. Honestly great quality. Id print it using 3DSolutech PLA (in my opinion it is way better than hatchbox) at 0.2 mm layer height. I have purple, cyan and black filament right now</p>
<p>I could even do it in PETG</p>
<p>which power supply do you recomend, and it will help if you post a link to order the itam, thanks alot</p>
<p>Hi I am collecting money to buy all parts requiered to build Cherry 3D Printer but i dont have 3D Printer myself. Can i use wood pieces as replacement of plastic parts?</p>
<p>You make them out of wood and then if you want, print them with the printer you just made</p>
Hi etetan I have the same problem as you had could you tell me how u solved it ? the motors are not moving in any axis I checked the connection thermistors baud rate 115200 decreased the steps per mm but the motor is not moving
<p>Look at the comments above. Several people here made the genuine plastic parts entirely from wood. It's seems to be efficient.</p>
<p>Hi folks !</p><p>Firstly, thank you Vulcaman for this tuto, you rules !</p><p>Secondly, I am making my own one following your instructions. Everything is connected and I could test every component individually (motors X/Y/Zs/extruder, Endstops, extruder, temperature probe, ...). But now, when I test all the components connected at their right place (with the test commands in the repeiter sw), the extruder motor doesn't work : no move, no vibration, no noise, nothing...<br>I use the EEPROM config given in the tuto without major modification, I tested the A4988 (OK) and the motor (OK). I also tried to adjust the current of the A4988 and to modify the micro-stepping : Still not working (no move, no vib, nothing...)</p><p>By the way, when I try to turn the rotor of this motor, it is a bit harder than when the motor is not powered, so I don't think that is a power supply issue.</p><p>Does anybody have the same issue ? Any solutions ?</p><p>Thanks in advance</p>
<p>Hey, so the problem is most likely the fact that the extruder stepper will not move unless the hot end is heated. If you want to make sure the extruder works, heat the hot end to the temperature you intend to print on (for PLA aprox. 210 degrees Celsius) and then you can test it. This is just a safety feature built into most 3d printer firmwares so that the extruder is not trying to feed filament when it cant actually extrude it. </p>
I have the same problem Ethan I uploaded the firmware but eprom is grayed in repetier the motors are not moving the extruder is connected as well as the thermistor
<p>Thank you etetan for your reply. ;)</p><p>I will test it and maybe print my first piece soon !</p>
<p>Hi, can you send me the size of your wood board that you are using? like where to cut it.</p>
12 mm
<p>Hi all,</p><p>First, Thanks Vulcaman for this project ..... I'm buildim my very first 3D printer ...</p><p>Second, I've some questions, please be patience ... ;-)</p><p>Y-Axis:<br>What is the distance between the edge and the supports of the motors X? (blue)<br>What is the distance between the supports of the X motors and the central support? (Red)<br>The nuts holding the motors should screw on the underside, right?<br>The rotor should I be at the absolute center, I guess (green)<br><br>Ramps:<br>1.- Under the pololus there are 3 pins, what is the exact order in which they need to be connected? (0, 1, 2, 3, ...)<br>2.- What is the order in which you connected your engines? Blue cable the first by the right or left? My engines have a different order (except red in the center ...)</p>
<p>You do not know what a 28 byj 48 after hack angle step or steps per revolution thank you.</p>
<p>Hallo</p><p>Still can't het the printer to work.</p><p>The X and Y are working, only for the Y I have an issue with the endstop I it keept on moving even if the endstop led illuminaties to indicatie that the carrage has reached the end.</p><p>The major problem is however with the z and the extruder stepper motors.</p><p>The z-axis I could get moving for a while when using the 3 jumper to have it run in 1/16 mode. However after a while no movement anymore ????</p><p>The Extruder stepper is true drama it vibrates (gets worse when increasing the voltage on the stepper driver pot's) or I get it moving but then it jumps steps all the time. I wired stepper and stepper drivers on other positions (X and Y) to verify if the stepper or the driver are fine and they are. When pluggen in on X or Y all is fine.</p><p>I tried adjusting the voltage on the stepper divers setting it to 0,5-0,6 volt but this is not improving, on low voltage no movement the high voltage results in skipping of steps and overheating.</p><p>Started fiddeling with some of the EEPROM settings but honestly I have no clue what I need to do.</p><p>Can you help me with my issue's?</p><p>Thanks,</p><p>Samuel</p>
<p>Hi,</p><p>You have to set the A4988 in full step mode for the Z-Axis. Then try to adjust the current of the motors and steps per mm. You need to find the perfect match between current and torge. The Eeprom can be adjusted in Repetier-Host. Here you can set the steps per mm for all the axis. </p><p>For example if your motors doesn't drive as long as you set, you have to increase the steps per mm for the specific axis. </p>
Hi<br><br>After setting the Z jumpers for full step my motors only move a fraction then stop. What are the likely causes? <br><br>Thanks
<p>Hallo</p><p>I needed to modify the steps/mm setting of my Z to make it move but will my dimensions now still work?</p><p>I mean the EEPROM says 2500 steps/mm and I needed to set it at 400 steps mm. What will be the effect of this if I try to print a 10x10x10 cube.</p><p>Extruder is still a problem no movement only vibration.</p><p>Samuel</p>
<p>Hallo</p><p><br>An update again, X and Y are OK, endstops are also OK. The Z I can move but very slow at first and at 400 steps per mm while the documentation of the printer indicaties 2500.<br><br>I can make it move faster if I increase the feedrate however then I have another strange effect, the stepper motor changes direction at random ???? however both stepper motors Z1 and Z2 are in sync.<br><br>The extruder is again a problem I exchanges its stepper driver (to check A4988 vs DRV8825 performance) switched it back and the vibration is there again no way to find a good setting of the steps/mm. documentatie indicates 145.5 my previous setting of 80 no longer works.<br><br>This thing is driving me crazy working on it for a few months now and still haven't printer anything.<br><br>Samuel</p>
<p>Hi,</p><p>if your motor changes direction randomly (in case we are talking about 28BYJ48 and not a NEMA17 type) the most possible issue is wrong connection. Don't rely on the wire colour. Different manufacturers - different wire color order. For me this issue was a little hell as well :) Double check this even on the motor's PCB. Vibration of extruder motor is of course much bigger than other small motors. Setting around 145 steps/mm should be OK. Driver trimmer pot has to be set at higher level than other motors (based on the fact that NEMA17 literally 'consumes more' than 28BYJ48 :) ) How much torque does your extruder motor have anyway? Send us a data about manufacturer and model of your motor if you don't know...</p><p>FireCrier out.</p>
Hey <br><br>17 Nema is a 17HS3401 holding torque is 28 N cm per min.<br><br>Seems now to be on the lower side correct ?<br><br>Samuel
<p>I received my clone hotend but I am having problems with the heater cartridge. I inserted the cartridge into the heating block and tightened the screw on the heater block as tight as I can, but the cartridge is not held fast. It keeps sliding back and forth and moves around.</p><p>Any possible solutions? </p>
<p>Replying to myself (in case it helps someone else):</p><p> I ended up using a normal M3 screw which is a bit longer than the hex screw that comes with the heat block. That tightened the heating block around the cartridge, so the cartridge isn't going to slip out and become a fire hazard anymore. Honestly, I am used to buying cheap &amp; shonky things from China. Buying a few crappy nano/pro mini/uno clones that may randomly die is one thing, but actually a heat cartridge that slips around in the block scares the hell out of me.</p><p>I have a feeling this may be just one of many surprises to come with this clone.</p>
<p>E3D makes a great hotend called the lite6. It has the benefits of owning a genuine E3D hotend (reliability) but at a fraction of what the v6 costs. only downside is it still has PTFE lining so its only good to go up to 240C. Great for PLA, not good for stuff like nylon</p>
<p>this is my printer</p>
<p>I like it! </p>
<p>can u add another extruder</p>
<p>You wouldnt want to with such a small build volume. You would basically be cutting the build volume by 1/4</p>
you can buy ready extruder pack from aliexpress
What did you use for the power supply?
<p>Id recommend a mean well 20A power supply for this build. </p>
<p>You can use an old ATX power supply. You just need to bridge the green and black wire. </p>
<p>What kind of wood was used for the print bed? It wasn't listed in the parts list, and definitely was MDF</p>
<p>You can use MDF though. ive build one of these using MDF for everything including the build plate</p>
<p>Looks like poplar multiplex </p>
<p>Sorry for my bad English. Do you have the .slt file of type Lead Screw Nut Brass Nut (Diameter: 8mm) that join the X-Axis (X-End.stl) with the Threaded Rod? I can't seen to find it!</p>
<p>Eerom settings &gt;&gt;Feed rate lower and lower acceleration. m8 screw 2560 step 3.5 100 and 1/2 microstep 5120 step 2 50 and try volts adjust motor run + 5 min bigger. try lower speed and accleration if works try bigger speed </p>
<p>Hi vulcaman could you share the design i kind of neeed it for my project</p>
<p>hi can you still get the printed parts</p>
<p>hey, do you still need the 3d printed parts? </p>

About This Instructable




Bio: I am an 18 years old guy from Germany who love to make things. Later I want to become an Electrical Engineer :-)
More by Vulcaman:JRLS 1000 DIY SLS-3D-PRINTER DIY-SLS-3D-Printer Weld Free Electric Longboard 
Add instructable to: