Hello, in this instruction, I will show you how to make a 3D-Printer for less than 60€ (maybe the cheapest in the world)

I'm 16 Years old and I made everything by myself.

This 3D-Printer, works with the cheapest motors on the market (28Byj-48), for the electronics I use the Ramps 1.4 . It also has an all metal hotend for around 5€.


Buildsize : 10x10x10cm

Travel speed: 20mm/s

Printspeed: 10mm/s

Resolution: 0.2mm

Update: 27.05.2016: Added new Files for Nema 17 Motors (Step 13)

Step 1: Parts: Mechanic


-1x 30x34cm (Baseplate)

-2x 6x4cm

-1x 34x6cm

-1x 15x4cm

ca. 2 €


-12x LM8UU Aliexpress - 5.58€

-2x GT2 Pulley + 1m GT2 Belt Aliexpress -3.33€

-10x 624 Bearings Aliexpress 2.26€

-1x Mk8 DriveGear Aliexpress 0.89€

-1x PTFE tube Aliexpress 1.97€

8mm Smooth rods:

- 2x 22cm

- 4x 17,5cmkleinteileversand


Local Hardware Store

-1x M5 threaded rod

-2x M5 hex-nut

-8x M3x16mm screws

-6x M3x 25mm screws

-4x M4x45 screws

-2x M4x 60 screws

-4x M4x20 srews

-20xM4 Hex-Nuts

-10x M3 hex Nuts

-12x small woodscrews

ca. 6€

In Total: 17€

<p>Hello, excuse my English I'm Italian, have tried to build the printer, but it happens something strange, try to print but makes small movements of a few millimeters and can not print anything maybe firmware problem you would kindly let me here are my printer measures 27cm x axis</p><p>30cm y-axis and z-axis 30, while extruder crashes wire, manually everything works</p><p>a nema 17 motor 1.7A and 4 28BYJ-48 these as ruler opololu A4988 many thanks</p>
<p>Have you checked and tuned the Vref on your stepper drivers? Your build looks quite heavy so you may need to increase the current in the motors especially in the y axis.</p><p>https://youtu.be/bItYRMLGoVc</p>
<p>this is my printer</p>
<p>can u add another extruder</p>
<p>I received my clone hotend but I am having problems with the heater cartridge. I inserted the cartridge into the heating block and tightened the screw on the heater block as tight as I can, but the cartridge is not held fast. It keeps sliding back and forth and moves around.</p><p>Any possible solutions? </p>
<p>Replying to myself (in case it helps someone else):</p><p> I ended up using a normal M3 screw which is a bit longer than the hex screw that comes with the heat block. That tightened the heating block around the cartridge, so the cartridge isn't going to slip out and become a fire hazard anymore. Honestly, I am used to buying cheap &amp; shonky things from China. Buying a few crappy nano/pro mini/uno clones that may randomly die is one thing, but actually a heat cartridge that slips around in the block scares the hell out of me.</p><p>I have a feeling this may be just one of many surprises to come with this clone.</p>
What is the long of m5 threaded rod and I saw two smooth rods What needed to other two rods
<p>There is basically two rods per axis (x,y,z) and the threaded rod is what controls the z axis. All other axis move using belts. The reason why you wouldn't want to use a belt for the z axis is first of all, accuracy and secondly, precision. Belts wear out a lot quicker than threaded fasteners, and when they do, they become inaccurate and imprecise.</p>
thank for comment I bought everything now I am waiting for parts
<p>Sorry to ask a dumb question like this, but how do you increase the print size? Do you just build the printer with longer rods and a bigger print bed? And what about the software itself, do you have to adjust the code also?</p><p>Sorry about all the questions, i'm kinda new to the 3d printing community </p>
<p>Careful not to increase the size by too much without increasing the diameter of the smooth rods. Otherwise you will end up with sag near the center of the rods. 300mm on any axis maximum if you plan on using 8mm rods. Any larger and you will need to increase the size accordingly.</p>
<p>Yep just upscale everything, the code stays the same. In basic terms the endstops let the printer know how big the build area is.</p>
<p>where can u get the steel smooth rods in au</p>
<p>China is your best bet</p>
<p>what printer did u print ure parts on</p>
How thick is the mdf?
<p>Just be wary with MDF as it is sensitive to moisture in the air and tends to shrink or grow depending on humidity levels. Highly recommend that it is painted or sealed on every face to limit the absorption...unless you enjoy re-calibrating after each run. I used acrylic sheet which is rock solid, can be drilled and tapped for screws and not overly sensitive to heat. I only ever have to recalibrate if I have to remove the hotend for maintenance...which is rare. </p>
Was the acrylic more expensive, and was it thick enough?
<p>I built a Mendel90 printer (self sourced parts, not a kit) and I got 10mm for the main base plate, 6mm for the hotbed plate, gantry and back plates. It is very rigid. It is more expensive than MDF but if you find a sign maker or otherwise business that uses acrylic sheet, they will normally have offcuts that will be big enough for this. </p>
It is 12mm thick
<p>&iquest;Qu&eacute; fuente de alimentaci&oacute;n se utiliza ?<br>Puedo usar una de 12v de PC</p>
<p>Do you have the .slt file of the clamps that join the Z-Axes Step Motor with the Threaded Rod? I can't seen to find it!</p>
<p>The ones that I got printed were these ones which Solarmax tweaked:</p><p><a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1054536" rel="nofollow">http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1054536</a></p><p>Hopefully other people will say what they used.</p>
Thank you very much! :)
<p>Question for people who have finished making their Cherry printers: did you choose the Chinese clone E3D-V6 recommended in this tutorial, and if so do you think it's worth buying?</p><p>Just spent some time reading the reprap forums and seeing loads of people saying that the clones get clogged nozzles. </p>
<p>I bought a clone and I'm having constant struggles with clogged nozzles.</p>
<p>Hey BrendanO12, thanks for sharing your experience. </p><p>I really hope Vulcaman (or someone else who has built their Cherry) is around and can give some advice about unclogging clogged nozzles, or how to stop it from happening.</p><p>I still haven't bought my hotend. I'm waiting 'til I've finished building everything and I am still waiting for two more packets from China anyway so I can wait a bit more. </p><p>I'm probably going to get the Lite6 though, and it's not because I'm a fan of the maker, that's for sure! :-P</p>
<p>Hey NoCactus,</p><p>I would recomend to buy a 4.1mm Heat-Break for your Hotend. Like this one <a href="http://de.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-1pcs-E3D-V6-Stainless-steel-Nozzle-Throat-Feeding-Tube-Throat-for-1-75-3/32461090008.html?spm=2114.010208.3.30.uZu3sy&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_8,searchweb201602_4_10037_10017_10033_406_10032,searchweb201603_3&btsid=0f978ebe-5bbd-4c8d-961d-6a889e17ebe2">Aliexpress </a>.<br> E3d uses also a 4.1mm Heatbrack in their Lite6. With this heatbreak you<br> can push the bowden tube directly to the heat block. It will prevent <br>most clogged nozzles, because the PTFE tube goes to the nozzle in one <br>piece. However, if your filament is bad you can even have clogged <br>nozzles. (I made some experiences on my other printers)</p><p>The heatbreack fits in all e3d v6 China-clones. If you using a v5 clone search for a v5 4.1mm heatbreak.</p><p>If you have bad filament and allready switched to the 4.1mm heatbreak, try to use a bigger nozzle like 0.5 or 0.6mm. <a href="http://de.aliexpress.com/item/3D-printer-E3D-V6-V5-J-Head-brass-nozzle-extruder-nozzles-0-2-0-25-0/32440115525.html?spm=2114.010208.3.17.ECXhmr&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_8,searchweb201602_4_10038_10037_10017_10033_406_10032,searchweb201603_3&btsid=598a275f-ead7-4eaa-987f-9f13fecbc8a0">Aliexpress</a></p><p>I made this upgrade on all my printers. And I really recommend it.</p>
<p>Get the E3D Lite6. It is cheap, works terrific for PLA and there is almost zero risk of it not working properly whereas the Chinese clones are always hit or miss (usually miss). Also, E3D is the company who actually designed the product, so they know the exact specifications including the proper dimension and tolerances and the materials used. The people who clone the E3D hotends do not do a good job at replicating the dimensions and tolerances and definitely do not use the correct material in manufaturing. The Chines clones come with terribly inaccurate thermistor which you will have to spend a lot of time calibrating the beta settings in order to achieve an accurate temperature reading, and the E3D Lite6 comes with a semitec thermistor (good brand). So all in all, it is work it to go with the Lite6 if you are on a budget, otherwise get the V6 and avoid Chinese clones like the plague.</p>
I have clones on both of my printers and have never had a clogged nozzle.<br>
<p>Gadget-man, do you recall where you bought yours? Was it Ali-express, or ebay or someplace else? TIA</p>
<p>Pretty sure It's was aliexpress maybe bangood.com. I got them at different times from different vendors but they both work just fine.</p>
im pretty sure it was aliexpress but i also get things on banggood,com.<br>i bought them at seperate times from seperate vendors and have never had any trouble.<br>
<p>Have had issues with the LM8UU bearings. Of the 12 bearings I received, 3 of them just wouldn't roll. Tried sewing machine oil and grease but no luck. One other bearing had lost 1 of its balls, and 2 more then fell out. So, I'd say ordering 2 lots 12 bearings from ali-express is probably the go. Saves having to buy a few bearings locally where the markup is robbery. It also beats having to wait another 2 weeks for a new lot of bearings from China. ;-)</p>
<p>Is there any way to increase the print area? If there is, how?</p>
<p>Just wondering have you thought of using nema 14 stepper motors just like the tiny boy instead of nema 17 you can get them cheaper a lot of times and they are lighter</p>
<p>I'm sure the NEMA 14s would work okay for the Z-axis and maybe the X-axis, but you might need to lower the acceleration of the Y-axis because of the NEMA 14s lower torque (compared to same shaft sized NEMA 17s). Also, in my 3D printer (redesign of this one), the X-axis motor is actually mounted on the X-end, so it is not moving side my side (only up when the Z-axis moves), so technically speaking, the mass of my motors do not matter because they are not accelerating. Also, where are you able to get NEMA 14s for a cheaper price than NEMA 17s?</p>
<p>Do you need to have some previous experience with 3d printers before you start building your own ?</p>
It is strongly recommended
<p>No but if you don't, expect to invest a lot of time into research before you get anywhere.</p>
<p>Thank you both very much. I will try some day to build it.</p>
<p>Like VectorRobo said, it does make it a lot easier, but prior experience shouldn't be completely necessary. If you've got a good basic understanding of computers and electronics, then you should be able to get it put together and working.</p>
هلا وغلا
<p>Good work</p>
The linked motors are rated at 5v, are they being run at 12v?<br><br>There are 12v versions of these little steppers available on Aliexpress for about the same price.
<p>Very interesting read. The design is solid in concept, but could use some improvements to bolster the sturdiness over the long haul. I'd suggest trying to find a means of securing some of the structural and moving components with something other than zip ties, as those have a tendency to stretch over time, and don't necessarily provide a means for securing moving stuff long-term.</p><p>I've been looking for a project like this for a few weeks now, and I think yours is by far the most practical thus far. Once I get everything else, I'll be contacting you about either printing me the plastic pieces, or at least to get your assistance in replicating them in metal or some other medium (I'm considering CNC aluminum).</p>
<p>Nice design, but I do have one little minus for it</p><p>Having built a 3D printer using the 5mm threaded rod, I can assure you they are never straight and will lead to problems down the track, it would have been far better to have used lead rods, so much smother in the movement and so much quieter.</p>
Do you really need the endstops? Has anyone built this without them?

About This Instructable




Bio: I'am a 17 years old guy from Germany who love to make things. Later I want to become an Electrical Engineer :-)
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