Introduction: Clockwork Piston (Steampunk)

Make your very own steampunk piston out of a cigar box, clock parts, and spent bullet shells! Recycle your old clock parts to make a contraption that powers itself!

Step 1: Clock Guts

First off, find an old clock with easily accessible gears - cheap, busted clocks can usually be found at antique shops, clock shops and thrift stores. Carefully take it apart until you have it stripped down to just the mechanical housing (minus the pendulum, if it has one). Unscrew the housing and make sure to be careful that the spring steel doesn't unwind out of control - believe me, it hurts! I used tape to bind it so that it wouldn't feed out of the mechanism. Once you have the spring steel jammed, turn the gears around to see which gears move which gears. After a little time moving the gears around, you should be able to figure out which gear combination leads from ONE of the spring steel coils to the post (the longest gear where the hands of the clock face attach). For this particular clock, only 3 gears were involved - the spring steel unit itself, an intermediate gear, and the gear with the post (where the hands of the clock face attach). Remove all the extra gears and the second coil of steel. Once you have the proper gears isolated, screw the housing back together, making sure that the spring steel is still jammed.

Step 2: Cigar Box

Get your hands on a cigar box, which you can find for a good price in antique shops most of the time, or you can solicit a local humidor. Make sure that the box is big enough to hold the clock housing (with the spring wound fairly tight) and that it is deep enough for the clock to be completely covered so that only the post rises above the lid. Place the clock housing into the cigar box and carefully allow the spring steel to unwind, which it will try to do VERY quickly. Make sure the mechanism is braced in one corner of the cigar box. The spring steel will unwind and hold the mechanism in the box with spring tension. For added stability, you can screw the housing into the floor of the cigar box.

Step 3: Drilling

Close the lid of the box and see where the post hits the lid. Apply a little pressure to make an impression in the wood. To prevent the box from splintering, put masking tape on both sides of the lid where you will be drilling. Since the lid isn't going to line up exactly with the impression once it is closed, you will want to drill a little bit TOWARD the hinges from your mark. Use a drill bit that is larger than the post to give it a little room and prevent jamming, as well as helping the box to close. Drill from the inside and brace the lid over a flat piece of wood to prevent splintering. Repeat this step for the second post that comes out of the center of the spring steel - this post is square-shaped and turning it with the key will wind the steel, powering the contraption. The hole needs to be large enough to allow the key to be inserted.

Step 4: Bullet Shells

There are different shells which will fit inside one another fairly well. I found that brass Winchester 270's fit inside nickel-coated 416 Remington mags pretty well. Use a dremel tool with a cutoff disc to cut the tapered ends off of the shells so that you're left with just the shafts. Sand the ends flat and get rid of any sharp edges. I used an upholstry tack that was the same diameter as the open end of the 270 Winchester shell to use as a cap. Any flat or semi-domed brass or nickel cap will work as long as it matches the diameter of the shell.

Now for some soldering.

Step 5: Soldering

I would hope it goes without saying, but you can never be too careful, DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES TRY TO SOLDER UNFIRED CARTRIDGES - They contain GUN POWDER which will EXPLODE if heat or fire comes into contact with them. Only use spent shells, and make sure there is no gun powder residue on or inside of them.

This part can get kind of technical, but this is the method that I used:

Set up your soldering area: Solderite board, easy solder, brush on flux, an acetylene tank with an air intake attachment, and a third arm with tweezers or clamps.

For the piston, lay the 270 Winchester shell on it side and use tweezers to hold it steady, then position the upholstry tack so that the domed end is facing away from the rest of the shell. Slather some flux on it, lay down your solder chips and get to work with the torch. Use a solder pick to direct the solder around the seem to ensure complete closure. After that, turn the shell the other way and solder 2 washers to the end. Leave room between the washers and make sure they are symmetrical and equidistant with relation to the round lip of the shell (First Picture).

Set that aside and get the 416 shell. Carefully clamp the shell into a drill press without crushing it. Drill out the circular primer (the circular part in from the 416 REM MAG stamp) - this end will act as the intake. Take it to the solderite board. You can be pretty creative in how you make your exhaust chamber. For this exhaust, I took a second 270 shell and cut it down, saving the the two ends - about a 3/4 cm up from the rim at the primer end, and 3/4 cm down from the flare of the bullet end. I soldered the two pieces together to get the shape in the pictures below. Drill a hole into the side of the 416 shell that is roughtly (maybe slightly smaller) than the narrow end of the exhaust. File the narrow end of the exhaust, or use a dremel grinding attachment, to notch it to the approximate curvature of the 416 shell. Solder the exhaust to the 416 shell.

Use fine grain sandpaper to get rid of the fire scale and bring out the luster of the brass. The 416 shell is only nickel COATED, so you may sand it off accidentally.

Step 6: Determining Throw

In order for the piston to work properly, you need to determine 2 things: the length of the connecting rod and the diameter of the gear that it will attach to. These work together to determine the throw of the piston, or, how far the piston will move. This will take some guess work. The connecting rod I used was about 2 inches long and the gear was about 1 1/2 inches.

You don't necessarily have to use a gear, but any flat, rigid, round piece of copper, nickel or brass will work. Drill a hole in the center and, using the nut that holds the hands of the clock face to the post, solder it to the center of your gear/plate.

You might want to drill a couple of test holes in the plate (two can be seen in the first picture below) to see which will work best. Using 2 small nuts and bolts, connect the piston to the connecting rod, and the connecting rod to the gear/plate. Use washers to raise the connecting rod above the level of the nut you soldered to ensure clearance. Screw the gear/plate to the post coming out of the lid of the cigar box until it's tight. Hold the 416 shell chamber up and insert the piston. Here's where the guess work comes in: Use the key to wind the spring steel slightly, then move the 416 chamber around to find a spot where the piston steadily pumps back and forth with the least resistance. This will determine the best placement for the mounting bracket.

Step 7: Mounting Bracket

Once you have determined the position of the piston where it makes full revolutions with minimal resistance, you will want to mount it to the lid of the cigar box. I cut out a bracket from some sheet copper I had laying around and used a copper pipe end-cap to get a snug fit. Drill two small holes on the sides of where the piston will be to mount the bracket. Uses washers to prevent the box from splintering when tightening down the screws. A small sheath of leather wrapped around the 416 shell helps keep the piston in place and protects the shell from scratches.

Once the bracket is in place, assemble the piston and screw down the gear/plate to the post.

Step 8: Become the Envy of Your Friends With Your New Toy!

Insert the key and wind it till your heart's content! With some minor tinkering to your connecting rod and piston placement (sliding it forward or backward), you can improve the efficiency of the piston. If the piston is sticking, you may want to sand the cylinder down slightly. The bullet shells fit pretty tightly as it is, so filing down the diameter of the male end will help.

This is not a fully functioning piston because it doesn't have the valves in place. Valves could be added relatively easily (one intake valve and one exhaust valve). Greasing or lubricating the piston will also create a tighter air seal, further improving its efficiency.

Now just sit back and enjoy the mechanical hum!


Comments

author
mvanderdeen made it!(author)2012-12-24

So wud this be possible to solder well if u were using just a soldering iron and solder??

author
bloodyblahblah made it!(author)2011-04-02

maybe you could fit a saw blade on it and make a scroll saw!!!

author
cutshopguy made it!(author)2011-01-15

I really liked this. I've recently got into the steampunk/ cyberpunk thing and am currently working on a mechanical arm, so I know a bit about using lateral thinking to make something new out of "found" objects. I loved your piston and valve setup - one question, where's the intake valve and could you use this to do something useful, like say, pump water?

author
greymatter21 made it!(author)2010-05-14

what exactly would this be used for?

author
schoonovermr made it!(author)2009-04-18

1.Can you explain to me what steampunk is? 2.That's pretty cool!

author
MrGreggan made it!(author)2010-04-12

My favorite explanation of steampunk: What the past would have been like if the future had happened earlier.

There are many examples of steampunk available, for instance... The movie version of Wild Wild West with Will Smith was quite steampunk. The Golden Compass. The League of Extraordinary Gentlemen. Van Helsing.

Abney Park & Dr Steel are two of the best know steampunk musicians. The literature of Jules Verne and HG Wells often figure into steampunk stories and images.

More info can be found here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steampunk

author
sora made it!(author)2010-04-11

its what people in the 1800 thought the future would be like

author
Derin made it!(author)2009-04-24

Steampunk can be described as making objects look like they belong to the Victorian era AFAIK.

author
schoonovermr made it!(author)2009-04-24

What is the victorian era?

author
youknowwhoiam made it!(author)2009-05-15

the 1800s, When Queen Victoria was the head of England

author
thepelton made it!(author)2010-02-13

The Victorian era lasted from about 1835 to 1900.  I don't know the exact dates, but around that long.

author
thepelton made it!(author)2010-02-13

If you care to be exact, 1837 to 1901.

author
mrmad made it!(author)2009-10-06

Steampuck is actually supposed to be what it would be like if the information age came during Victorian times.

author
mikeread made it!(author)2010-01-03

think of it as an antique 1800's millennium falcon...

author
thepelton made it!(author)2010-02-13

Just thought I should add that there is a website that can help you design wooden gears in almost any size, which seems like it could lend a lot to steampunk design.  http://woodgears.ca/gear_cutting/template.html

author
lemonybits made it!(author)2009-08-26

wow that's awesome! I'm making a steampunk style movi and I'm totally going to make one of these

author
Fenris+The+bbw made it!(author)2009-08-06

That video was horribly violent. I laughed for like 5 minutes watching this.

author
petrino made it!(author)2009-07-20

AND THEN IT GOES! KABOOOOM!

author
Foaly7 made it!(author)2009-05-28

I could build this bigger and use it in a piston-operated Legway. It's on this site but I can't link to it. The computer I'm on won't make links.

author
A+good+name made it!(author)2009-03-07

Would one of those cheap dollar store wood boxes work just as good?

author
Rotten194 made it!(author)2009-04-18

As long as its about the same size, I don't see why not.

author
heladoxa made it!(author)2009-03-14

no

author
octochan made it!(author)2009-03-17

ooh, this thing is SO COOL. but shiny shiny clock guts like that are hard to come by, especially with such an awesome winding key. I do have some windup tin toy guts I think would work, and they're small enough for an Altoids tin.

author
Mikey+D made it!(author)2009-03-14

Very cool. The video really made it for me. I thought this was going to be a slo-mo device (clock speed and all that) but it seems to really haull a$$. I chuckled when you mentioned putting valves in it so it could really work but after the vid, I think that might viable. Take it to the next level with some small reed type or check ball type valves and use the air flow to power another gizmo attached to the same surface of the box. Excellent job!

author
Wyle_E made it!(author)2009-02-26

If you're gun-shy or just have trouble finding appropriate cartridge cases, find a real (not the artsy-craftsy kind) hobby shop. They will have 1-foot lengths of brass tubing in sizes from 1/16 to 1/2 inch. Each size telescopes accurately into the next larger size. There will also be sheet brass, so once you learn to solder you can build all kinds of mechanisms.

author
Thax made it!(author)2009-03-05

Is there some sort of brass solder that you can use? I've only seen or used the silver stuff.

author
heladoxa made it!(author)2009-03-14

There IS a brass solder and the process is called 'brazing'. You need a lot of heat and a degree of skill. the way to go is soft lead solder and an electric soldering iron. Easy peasy. You can probably find how to do it on YouTube Good luck

author
Wyle_E made it!(author)2009-03-05

Plain old tin/lead solder works for brass and copper. It melts a lot lower than silver solder. There is also a 95% tin, 5% antimony solder sold for pure copper work; I've used that on copper, but I've never tried it on brass.

author
Holden_vy_s made it!(author)2009-02-26

Casings, not shells.

author
gover57 made it!(author)2009-02-26

casings ARE shells.. they are the "shell" around the powder. same as Round and bullet are synonymous for the peice of metal the is the projectile. Cartridge is what you call the whole thing, before it is fired.

author
fwjs28 made it!(author)2009-02-26

its debatable....however, what you have said is what is generally accepter

author
jamwaffles made it!(author)2009-03-12

FIIINALLY. someone who has realised no one really cares what it's called as long as there is some sort of understanding that the thingy in the picture is called a shell/round/bullet/casing/jacket/coat/jumper/asswipe/yourfaceinitbruv/bleurgh...

author
fwjs28 made it!(author)2009-03-12

it all boils down to, its a lethal object that you don't think about proper names, when its pointed at your face....

author
jamwaffles made it!(author)2009-03-13

VERY TRUE. i agree some one hundred percent... not due to the fact that fwjs IS pointing one of them at my face of course...

author
fwjs28 made it!(author)2009-03-13

no, not at all i thought i told you to shutUP!

author
jamwaffles made it!(author)2009-03-13

ummm... riiight

author
fwjs28 made it!(author)2009-03-13

psst...act non-chalant JAZZ HANDS...da,da,da,da!

author
jamwaffles made it!(author)2009-03-13

what ARE you talking about??????

author
fwjs28 made it!(author)2009-03-13

Lamas

author
jamwaffles made it!(author)2009-03-14

Ah. yes. totally obvious. im talking about ham and cheese sandwiches in case you hadnt noticed :P

author
Holden_vy_s made it!(author)2009-02-26

A "shell" refers to an artillery shell. "Casing" is the correct term.

author
recon506 made it!(author)2009-02-26

To expand on your discussion, please note that the author tells us not to solder bullets because the have "gunpowder in them". Bullets do not contain gunpowder. The have lead and sometimes a full metal (copper) jacket. What the author is referring to is the round! Wikipedia and Google are your friends.

author
grraorwwl made it!(author)2009-02-26

haha

author
conrad2468 made it!(author)2009-03-12

I know....obviously he has never shot a gun

author
gover57 made it!(author)2009-03-10

a shell can refer to more than one thing, but when it is in regards to firearms, it is the same as a casing. yes, it can also mean the shell in artillary, but artillary is not the topic, the same as turtles are not the topic. I'm an avid outdoors person and hunter, owning many firearms, and have a lot of family in the military, so i think i have a little bit of knowledge in this category. If you managed to use the interwebs, you may have come accross a nice little site called dictionary.com; where it says that a "shell" is a "metallic cartridge used in small arms" or "a hard, protecting or enclosing case or cover." In reference with the "bullet" topic. You are correct that it is used in artillary lingo, but are incorrect stating it isn't used with firearm and bullet lingo.

author
jaysbob made it!(author)2009-03-01

well I'm glad to have learned that. that was really causing me some confusion when reading this 'ible. /sarcasm

author
Holden_vy_s made it!(author)2009-03-01

No problem.

author
Valche made it!(author)2009-02-26

"Pedantic" refers to this discussion.

author
Gamer917 made it!(author)2009-02-28

good one

author
agent+harmsy made it!(author)2009-03-12

LOL! That's awesome! Too bad i dont have any bullet casings. bloody aus laws :|

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