Introduction: H.P.Wagon

Picture of H.P.Wagon

Remember the old English/European gypsy wagons, I mean the bow-top light weight cylindrical design?

Well, it seems that the basque sheepherders in this country used a similar design for their mobile homes while shepherding. I built one of these a couple of years ago and have been living in it since, on the road, in town, and in the woods, and love the design for its simplicity, functionality, and affordability.

Tiny houses seem to be raging right now, and if you like houses tiny, then you are maybe in the right place. The floor plan measures 8 x 4 feet, or 32 square feet, but luckily due to the round design, at hip height, where the bed runs the width of the wagon, it is 6' 6"wide.

One great benefit to living in a tubular structure is that if you stand in the middle you can stretch your arms out to the sides, you can even spin around like a twirling dervish, if you have great control of course.

Another benefit to tubes is that because there are no corners to stick out, you can drag this house down most any roads your truck would fit down, if you tie it down properly, por cierto.


Introduction: Ok well. This is a little more complicated than I had at first suspected. After building this first wagon, I realized that there were a lot of things I will do differently on the next one. Some of these things are:

SIZE: I am relatively tall, 6' 6", and this was designed to fit me exactly. Turns out it is too narrow for me to comfortably sleep in it. If you are a few inches shorter it will fit you fine, but my next one will be 7 feet wide. The hieght too is fine for standing up, but sitting on the bed and in the hold is a little too cramped for my liking, and as it collapses being made taller shouldn't be a problem. If you decide to make it larger, you will need a different range of boards of different sizes, so go figure it out, or wait for my next wagon.

COLLAPSIBILITY: After building this to collapse, which is a great feature for long trips or where clearance is an issue, especially if this were built ontop of a truck bed, I don't collapse it any more. I haven't driven more than 50 miles at a time this last year and the gas savings havn't made it worth it to break everything down and set it back up each day. The next model is going to have solid studs and a wind deflecting nose cone.

SCREWS v's NAILS: This first wagon was nailed together with wood glue, which was terrible. It cracked the tongues, pulled off the studs and the nails popped out. For this write up I am recommending screws throughout. After years fastening wood together with all types of screws, I now use star drives exclusively. They don't strip, can be reused over and over, and cost just a little more.

THE NEXT MODEL: I am currently preparing to build the first production model, this write up being the first stage in the process. If you want to wait to see how that one turns out, that would be a sign of good judgment on your part. If I can get a camera cappable of it I will set it up to take a time-delay film of the whole process. I built this over a year ago and so I am describing it from memory….

Step 1: Materials and Tools

MATERIALS:

20+ 12' tongue and groove 3/4 x 5" boards

20+ 8' as above

15 x 8' 2x3's

a few 8' 1x4's for door and window trim, finish grade, (as in beautiful)

7 x 8' 2x2 for rafters (or better yet, small diameter trees with little taper, or bamboo)

Bottle of wood glue

2 boxes of 1 &5/8" star drive finish screws

Box of 1 & 1/4" star drive screws

Box of 3" star drive screws

Handful of 4" star drive screws

12 small door hinges 2 med door hinges (+2 for the front of the bench)

1 small tree to support deck

One sheet of 1 & 1/8" plywood (2nd if you want to make the decks off the front)

One sheet of attractive 3/4 inch plywood for bench, (or desk), kitchen, and shelves in hold Another 3/4inch sheet of any grade for the bed

Other random boards of different dimensions and lengths

8 x 4' utility trailer

Gallon polyurethane or other finish/stain/paint

2 sheets of plywood, any thickness, to get the design layed out on (or other flat surface you can draw on)

1 canvas tarp, I recommend Sunforger 10 oz, 12' x 14' (if you want compete water resistance, go with something like vinyl-impregnated canvas)

Linseed oil for the interior to keep the wood from drying out

For the stove: - 5 gal metal bucket - handful of sheet metal screws, 1 1/2"+ long - a few 1/2 inch sheet metal screws - a sheet of thin shiny metal, for a heat shield around the stove, about 16" x whatever - elbow and 6 foot section of 3 inch stove pipe - black stove paint - a hinge for the door and a little bit of wire

Tools: These are the tools I used, (or more accurately will use on the next wagon) and reccomend based on my desire for silence, efficiency, and safety, or basically a good ballance of what we call the hoogle-poogle, or the male and female energies. You could do the whole project with hand tools, but I am really looking forward to using a jig saw for cutting the doors out on the next one. And if you don't use a power sander, and don't have razor sharp knives and know how to whittle, it will probably end up with jagged edges everywhere, loozing you a lot of hoogle points.

A quality jig saw (better to buy quality used on ebay or craigslist then some piece of junk that will jump all over the place and make you hate wood working, I got a sweet Bosch for I think $80.

A nice new Sharptooth handsaw, the longer the better, unless your arms are very short.

Carpenters square

Speed square

Adjustable square

4 foot level or straight edge

Hammer

Cordless screwdriver (or one of those eggbeater drills, one of those old school push yankee drivers, converted to take stardive bits, and a brace.) I use all four.

Piece of string (for marking circles)

Tape measure (at least 2, I always have 3, at the start of the day anyway..)

A lot of pensils, at least a dozen or you will spend half your time looking for them.

A couple of nice stable saw horses with a 3/4" sheet of plywood top makes a great work table. Get a third horse to support the other end of boards as you cut them.

A random orbital sander with multi packs of a range of grits, like 80, 120, & 220

What have I forgotten?

Step 2: Measuring, Marking and Cutting

Picture of Measuring, Marking and Cutting

Procedure:
The first thing we did was to stain/seal the floor plywood, so that it would be protected when we began standing on it as we built.

Layout: We sketched the design out on the two sheets of plywood. You could do this on any flat surface you can mark on, such as concrete. This was a little tricky. We began by marking the height we wanted, 6' 9", then we marked the width at the mid-height, 6' 6". At the base we marked two feet out from the midpoint to the left and the right, and then measured back in 3/4" to allow for the width of the side walls on the floor. Now came the tricky bit of joining all these points up. We did this with the help of a piece of string with a pencil tied to one end. Next we maked 5" increments up the plywood, starting with the flat end that will be on the floor. The 16th one takes you to the top of the curve. These are the measurements of your end boards.

Measure the WIDEST part of each board, we learned this on the first one and used our extra 12 footer to make up for it. Now pair up the board lengths so that you get the longest board and the shortest out of one 12 footer, then the second longest with the second shortest, and so on. Number them as you mark them, or enjoy the puzzle of assembly. Mark the middles of each board too for easy lining up later. If your boards are the same as ours you will find that there is one pair of boards that together are longer than 12 by less than an inch. If this is the case, then do what we did, share the difference between the two and it will all work out swimmingly.

If you choose to make it any larger, you will have to figure out the board lengths yourself, I recommend doing this BEFORE you purchase the materials.

Cutting:

If using a handsaw, here is what I recommend, either clamp it, put a foot on it, or have someone sit on it. Hold the saw with your index finger pointing down the saw, relax and let the saw do the work. If you are straining, get a sharper saw. Work the whole length of the blade, go for length over speed. Cut against a speed square to keep it square. If you haven't sawn by hand before, this will be a good time to learn, as these cuts are only rough cuts..

Step 3: Assembling the End Walls

Picture of Assembling the End Walls

The process of building the end walls is easiest done in four sections on a table.

The base boards need the groove ripped off, so that the board will sit nice and strong on the floor. I did this with a handsaw and the wood is so soft that it didn't take me long, but feel free to use a circular saw, jigsaw, or better yet a table saw, if you have access to one. If you are not used to handsaws, ripping will probably be a surprisingly intense workout for you.

Cut the studs in half. Mark where the studs for the door are going and screw them in place with the inch's and five eight's finish screws. Then screw the studs to the table from underneath so that nothing will move on you as you continue. Mark and screw the other two studs in the same manner and then square up and screw the other ends of the studs in the same manner, now you know it will stay square. It is worth remembering that it is hard to measure things too many times, use the square and the tape to compare and contrast and everything should stay groovy.

Next take the first board off and slap on a spiral of glue on each stud, then screw it back in with three screws in each stud. Add the next board, fastening with glue and two screws per stud. If building this in a wet winter, tap the boards close together, if in a dry summer space them a little apart, about a 16th of an inch maybe to allow for expansion in the winter. When you have reached the middle (the 8th board) cut the studs flush with the bottom of the groove.

I recommend adding mini-studs at the edge of the curve, as in the pictures.

Repeat for the upper section of wall, starting the studs at the top of the tongue, so that there is about a half inch gap between studs when the wall is assembled. Attach the top to the bottom with temporary braces.

Then repeat the whole procedure for the other end wall.

Use the string method again to mark the curve on one of the walls, cut it out with jig saw, jab saw, or lots of handsaw cuts and rasping/sanding to clean it up.

Lay this wall out on the other wall after smoothing the cut and trace the curve onto the other wall.

Step 4: Making the Center Half-wall, Cutting the Door/window Openings, and Fastening to the Floor

Picture of Making the Center Half-wall, Cutting the Door/window Openings, and Fastening to the Floor

For the center wall, copy the lower front wall. Next mark the door openings, the curve done with the string and pencil again. Before cutting screw temporary boards to all the boards you are cutting out, as this will hold them together until you frame them up. If you are using a jig saw, you can angle the saw blade to cut the doors so that they fit into the wagon, kinda like a pumpkin lid. The same can be done between the double dutch doors so they close snuggly together.

Now you can fasten the end and middle panels to the floor. Do this with 3 inch screws every few inches. Then plumb them and secure with diagonal braces to keep them plumb as the side walls go up.

Step 5: The Side Walls, Bed, and Upper End Walls

Picture of The Side Walls, Bed, and Upper End Walls

Now it is time to rip the side base boards, which must be done at the proper angle to ensure a tight fit to the floor.

You can measure this with an angle gauge, or hang the board down and mark it. If you have a table saw, this would be a good time to use it. If not, the jig saw will do a fine job, once you set the proper blade angle. If like me, you have neither, then you are in for some fancy angle hand sawing and a lot of hand planing. Well, what's your body for anyways?

Screw the side baseboards in at the right angle to keep the screw within the wood, about every foot. Then fasten them to the end and center walls with 3 or four 2 inch screws per wall. I recommend pre-drilling these holes, as splitting is likely otherwise.

Keep adding boards with the same spacing between boards as the end walls.

When the side walls are taller than the half-end walls, rip the last board down to match their hight, then round and sand them down.

Bed:

For the bed screw a couple of 2x2's to the studs at the hight you want the bed frame at. Then screw a couple 2x3's or 2x4's laid flat across from 2x2 to 2x2 to support the middle of the bed. Then size the plywood to fit in the framed in space, and notch out around where the studs protrude. OK, bed done.

The Upper Walls:

To make attaching the upper walls easier, brace them together with scrap wood while you put the hinges on. I recommend 6 hinges per wall, or one per each stud.

Step 6: Doors and Windows, Permanent Braces, Rafters, & Decks

Picture of Doors and Windows, Permanent Braces, Rafters, & Decks

The win-doors were for me the trickiest part. If you cut them at at an angle, like a pumpkin lid, then their installation will be much easier and their fit far superior to a straight cut.

I recommend 1 x 3's or 1 x 4's for framing, or maybe even 1 x 2's, if a quality strong wood. The trim can lap in the middle, or not, as on the back win-doors.

The permanent braces keep the walls upright, the front ones going on the inside, the rear ones on the outside because of the bed. The front ones need notching where the hinges stick out, or use metal along the sides of the studs, my preferred method for next wagon.

We made the rafters out of 2 x 2's and since then have slowly been replacing them with small fir trees, as the roundedness is gentle on the canvas while touching as little as possible to reduce wicking in the rain. I used 4 inch screws on these as 2 inches of them goes into the stud and siding. The two additional removable rafters are set in those manufactured cup things for holding closet dowel racks. If using these put in an extra screw or it will rotate.

The deck is attached to a 2 x 2 which is attached to the rear wall. The three trees could probably be scaled down to two, we just started with the middle one, so we ended up with three…

I recommend something more water capable than stain and shellac..

Step 7: Bench/Pantry, Kitchen, Cook Stove, Central Heating Stove/Under Bed Sauna, Shelving Etc...

Picture of Bench/Pantry, Kitchen, Cook Stove, Central Heating Stove/Under Bed Sauna, Shelving Etc...

The bench is pretty simple and it holds a lot of food. The kitchen was cobbled together out of what plywood scraps we had and as we figured it out. As a result it was far more work than necessary and less graceful. Things I recommend/plan on doing differently:

Shelves to wall not studs so things don't keep falling through. Shelving all same size and all the way out to the door.

Area behind sink with divider to store things so sink can remain empty and useful. Storage next to sink of different heights, and with more dividers so things like forks don't keep falling over all the time and getting lost.

Because it is summer now we cook with alcohol and so the wood stove is not in its place. The hole in the wall is for the smoke stack and the oven rack above is a great place to put hot pots and dry things out and keep other things warm. Our stove was made out of a 5 gal bucket (another instructable) and has its own heat shield, the sheet metal you see was put in for a different "manufactured over-seas" stove, which sucked ass and so was replaced.

In the winter the futon that was then on the bed was starting to mildew in the damp cold, so we moved the stove under the bed and warmed the wagon that way. It needed a heat shield on the ceiling as it was pretty close to it and it cranked the heat out, glowing red when fully stoked. It dried the bed out and then some. In actuality it got so hot in the hold (the little room under the bed) that we put a blanket over the doorway and used it as a sauna.

It got so hot under there that our thermometer over heated at 160 degrees.

For shelving I recommend saving the most beautiful scraps of wood you have, and elastic pouches work great too.

Step 8: Final (as If Anything Is) Thoughts and Where We Go From Here...

Picture of Final (as If Anything Is) Thoughts and Where We Go From Here...

This wagon has been through a lot in the two years we've lived in it. We backed it into things, took it down roads so rough and steep the truck lost traction on all four wheels, and we had to unload all the weight to drive back up again. At one point doing about 50 the solid wood camper shell blew off (OK it wasn't fastened down, I thought it's weight would hold it, my bad) and smashed into the wagon. It mangled most of the hinges, broke two rafters, tore the braces off took a chunk out of the tops of the walls, and tore the canvas. Wisely, we travel with tools and we had it screwed, braced and tapped back together in less than an hour. That's one of the reasons I love working with wood, if it had been aluminum it would have had scrap value at that point. The camper shell was also fine, just some pretty heavy road rash.

Now that the prototype is finished and out of the house, I am looking for a workshop space in Eugene Oregon to begin construction of a for-sale model. It will most likely be a little taller, wider, a couple feet longer, and may or may not collapse, depending on demand. The bench may also be replaced by a desk and chair, the bed and kitchen will probably be wider and I will offer Vinyl impregnated canvas as well as SunForger for the roof.

The roof by the way, is super flexible, roll up one or both sides as far as you want, support them out as awnings, or take it off completely to see lots of stars. You can do like we are doing right now living in the city, use another blanket/sheet on one side and the canvas on the other and have a huge skylight to let heat out and air in and still have total visual privacy on both sides. Audio privacy is another matter entirely, we overhear a great number 20 sec of conversations as people walk by, a couple feet away, separated by a layer of canvas. You won't want to sleep in this in noisy neighborhoods, unless you have ear plugs.

Questions, comments?

Step 9: 2 Years and One Wagon Later...

Picture of 2 Years and One Wagon Later...

Well, the first wagon is finally done and it is currently up for auction in the San Fransisco bay area.
And the second larger one is in the finishing stages.
We learned a lot through the process these wagons have been.
Changes since this posting are:
Wooden rafters replaced with EMT (electrical metal tubing) notched into the wall studs for strength and easy removal, to sleep under the stars with nothing above you.
Wood stove moved under the bed into the hold to heat the bed (obviously) and dry the wagon from the floor up.
Kitchen torn out and replaced with full length counter top with much larger sink and room for a propane stove.
Roof replaced with Sunforger canvas with a strip of vinyl down the middle for a skylight.
Trailer prepped, primed and painted , same with wheels and all metal.
Stoop in front of door mounted onto trailer frame.
Cabin door type latch on door.
And other things I can't think of right now.

Our website is: hpwagons.com

And we are auctioning off this little wagon on fb here:

facebook.com/hpwagons

If you would like to own it, you may even bid on it there!

Ok, thanks for reading and drive safely,
Poogler.

Comments

MikeA156 (author)2016-09-12

Nice description and building of this cool mobile home. I look forward to seeing your new one if you build it. Thanks.

IconemaP (author)2016-02-06

El mundo sería más honesto e ingenioso con la naturaleza si fuéramos como lo bello de este proyecto....te felicito!!!! Saludos

ganeshruskin (author)IconemaP2016-03-21

muchos gracias a ti!

gamaster (author)2015-09-01

What are the specs for the utility trailer you used? What was its highway capabilities? thanks!

richardhaven (author)2015-07-12

Star-drive? Why not square-drive (Robertson) ? Then you have all of Canada as a supplier, not to mention McFeelys.

Just try star drives and let me know what you think. The square is on step away from the circle...

I've tried them. Square drive have all their advantages, and they are four steps away from a circle.

Cool cool, whatever works for you. Square drives are cheaper anyway…

I just love stars...

grt57 (author)2015-08-02

I dig it... thanks for the great post. I'm imagining a truck mounted version, for my 87 D-100. Lots of stuff to be learned from yours though. Thanks

ganeshruskin (author)grt572015-08-06

Do it! Then show it to me please...

ahunt15 (author)2015-08-03

Hi! I love your design and thanks for sharing. I've gone through a few times and am still a little unclear on how to attach the canvas. Can you clarify that a little? Or direct me to what I might be missing? Thanks again!

ganeshruskin (author)ahunt152015-08-06

Surely.

Creativity, really. We sewed our canvas ourselves so we made sleeves on the two sides of it and slid in a dowel. Then we bungee it down with solid black bungees, then use a tie-down over the front edge.

If you build it you will figure the roof out no problem mon….

renaissancemanjoshua (author)2015-07-09

Can you post a photo of it folded down?

I don't really have any. But it looks a lot like it did before we put the upper part of the walls on...

1233fire (author)2015-07-12

Very nicely done! Do you have a method of keeping out the rain?

ganeshruskin (author)1233fire2015-07-31

Yes, it is Sunforger canvas, or you could use vinyl impregnated canvas, or waxed canvas, or just a good old ugly plastic tarp, anything waterproof and 10x12'.

Sir_Sasquatch (author)2015-07-12

Excellent 'ible. I do have a suggestion for the canvas roof; what about tincloth (fire resistant and waterproof)? There are some good 'ibles on the subject.

Done that. It took a great deal of time because of the size, and has already started molding after one hardly wet winter. It was very water proof however.

Personally, I recommend Sunforger to start with and then when the proofing has washed off, use wax...

danamark (author)2015-07-12

Need to print this out, maybe I missed it quick reading it on mobile device, what keeps the rain out when collapsed when towing? My vote is for collapsable, I like that you can improve the view, raise the sides, increase air flow on hot nights, if you like, see the stars, great at the beach, save on gas, stone hits/strikes when pulling. I have seen some Blue Ridge mountain camp sites that needed seriously tree trimming over access roads to get to a paid camp site. My Honda CRV just squeezed by, a big huge 20 plus footer guy did some major limb trimming, painful to watch as it rocked by.

What is the weight, tow weight. My Honda is rated only 1,200 lbs, had one of the last Bonnevilles, no small car, tow weight 1.000. The thing got 28 on the highway. They opt for mpg gearing, less torque, in favor of gas mileage, the specs on this car were shocking. Not in the market for a $40 K truck. In the U.S. there is a market for the Euro and Australian type of campers, aka light weight, pulled by compact cars. You used to see them in the 60-70, disappeared from the market, light weight now seems to be starting at 2,500 lbs dry, unloaded. The less is more euro thinking is needed, you don't need a full kitchen, full storage, etc. In the U.S. people want to experience the "woods" as if they are camping in Disney.

PS, while reading, kept thinking, slap on some 50 gallons drums, float this thing. :)

ganeshruskin (author)danamark2015-07-31

Well, firstly, I have never towed it collapsed in rain. It doesn't rally rain much on the west coast anymore…If I was going to tow it in the rain, then the tarp would serve the purpose, but in my life, I generally wait for it to stop raining…

It would tow fine with your Honda, less than 1000 pounds.

As for floating it, you are the first person who noticed that it is designed for that. You just slide in 2x8's in-between the floor layers, strap on barrel pontoons, tack on a deck, oar locks on the bed, and away you go…

PKM (author)danamark2015-07-13

> slap on some 50 gallon drums, float this thing

This may be relevant to your interests: https://www.youtube.com/user/JMEMantzel

He bought an island in Panama and built his own houseboat (and solar sailboat, and pedal catamaran) out of fibreglass entirely by hand. That's after he finished the giant robot spider in the mountains of Vermont.

ken s (author)2015-07-13

Hi I am loving this project, do you have an estimate of the finished weight as if I was to build it I would be towing it with my trike. My guess is that it will be to heavy.

ganeshruskin (author)ken s2015-07-31

I think it would be too heavy, 800-900 pounds. But I have been thinking of building one with only sitting/sleeping space to be towed behind a bicycle...

CaseyCase (author)2015-07-10

A "Gypsy wagon" is called a "vardo." The label "Gypsy" can be seen as a pejorative term--they are properly referred to as Romani, FYI.

SideShowMom (author)CaseyCase2015-07-12

Sadly, most non-Romani don't know this. "Gypsy" and "caravan" are the more commonly searched terms. Romani would ask an elder how to build a caravan, not "google" it.

ganeshruskin (author)SideShowMom2015-07-31

Do you know of any Romani who live on the west coast, and who build wagons? I would love to meet them. Sadly, I know none.

Thinking about it, I don't think any elders would know how to build wagons to be towed at highway speeds, as they only had horses. Not to be facetious, but have you noticed the wooden wheels on them?

ganeshruskin (author)CaseyCase2015-07-30

You can see any term as whatever you want to, it is in fact one of the few true rights you have. I choose to see the label Gypsy as a creative, positive thing, although it does of course have its down side, such as the association with theft, but what doesn't?

skent4 (author)CaseyCase2015-07-12

Falce, Not all "Travellers" are Romani. The preffered term is Traveller but no Gypsys don't find "Gypsy" offencive "Gypo" "tinker" "pikey" ect are the offencive terms.

Romani comes from the native word for man how ever the native country of oragin is debateable Generaly it's believed to be India but others believe Egypt how ever most countrys have a like of travelers

JosephC21 (author)skent42015-07-14

Would you please translate your comment. Google could not.

minitehnicus (author)CaseyCase2015-07-12

If you look in the dictionary you will see that Romanians are not the same with the gypsies. Romanians live in a country named Romania. The gypsies live everywhere.

1827 - Petrache Poenaru, membru al Academiei Romane si unul dintre organizatorii învatamântului national inventeaza predecesorul stiloului modern: "condei portaret, fara sfârsit, alimentându-se singur cu cerneala"

1858 - Bucuresti - primul oras din lume iluminat cu petrol si prima rafinare a petrolului.

1880 - Dumitru Vasescu - construieste automobilul cu motor cu aburi.

1881 Alexandru Ciurcu - obtine un brevet din Franta prin care prevede posibilitatea zborului cu reactie.

1885 Victor Babes - realizeaza primul tratat de bacteriologie din lume.

1886 Alexandru Ciurcu - construieste prima ambarcatiune cu reactie.

1887 C. I. Istrate - Friedelina si franceinele.

1895 D. Hurmuzescu - descopera electroscopul.

1899 C.I. Istrate - o noua clasa de coloranti.

1900 Nicolae Teclu - becul cu reglarea curentului electric si gaz.

1904 Emil Racovita - fondatorul biospeologiei.

1905 Augustin Maior - telefonia multipla.

1906, 18.03 - Traian Vuia - avionul cu tren de aterizare pe roti cu pneuri; cu "Vuia I" acesta reuseste prima decolare fara sa foloseasca nici un mijloc ajutator, numai cu aparate aflate la bord (în fapt, primul avion din istorie).

1906 A.A. Beldiman - aparatul hidraulic cu dalta de percutie pentru sondaje adânci.

1908 Lazar Edeleanu - primul procedeu de rafinare a produselor petroliere cu bioxid de sulf din lume, procedeu care ii poarta numele.

1908 Acad. Nicolaie Vasilescu-Karpen - "pila Karpen", care functioneaza înca si produce curent electric, neîntrerupt, de aproape 100 de ani!

1910 iunie - Aurel Vlaicu - lanseaza primul avion din lume fuselat aerodinamic.

1910 Tache Brumarescu - masina de taiat sulf.

1910 Stefan Procopiu - efectul circular al discontinuitatilor de magnetism.

1910 Gh. Marinescu - tratamentul paraliziei generale.

1910 Henri Coanda reuseste primul zbor al unui avion cu reactie
(fabricatie proprie).

1910 Ioan Cantacuzino - "fenomenul Cantacuzino" (aglutinarea unor microbi).
1913-1916 Ioan Cantacuzino - vaccinarea antiholerica (metoda
Cantacuzino)

1916 D. Danielopolu - actiunea hipertensiva a digitalei.

1918 Gogu Constantinescu - întemeiaza o noua stiinta:
sonicitatea.

1919 Stefan Procopiu - unitatea elementara de energie magnetica
(magnetonul) .

1920 Emil Racovita - pune bazele Institutul de Speologie Cluj (primul din lume).

1920 ing. Gheorghe Botezatu - a calculat traiectoriile posibile Pamânt - Luna, folosite la pregatirea programelor "Apollo" (al caror parinte a fost sibianul Herman Oberth); el a fost si seful echipei de matematicieni care a lucrat la proiectul rachetei "Apollo" care a dus primul om pe Luna.

1921 Aurel Persu - automobilul fara diferential, cu motor în spate (de forma "picaturii de apa").

1921 Nicolae Paulescu - descopera insulina; pentru ca era un anti-mason virulent, Premiul Nobel l-au primit canadienii F.Banting si J.R.J. McLeod pentru aceasta descoperire.

1921 Stefan Procopiu - Fenomenul Procopiu (depolarizarea luminii).

1922 C.Levaditi si Sazevac - bismutul ca agent terapeutic împotriva sifilisului.

1925 Traian Vuia - generatorul de abur cu ardere în camera închisa si cu vaporizare instantanee.

1930 Elie Carafoli - avionul cu aripa joasa.

1933 Henri Coanda - aerodina lenticulara (farfuria zburatoare).
1938 Henri Coanda - efectul Coanda.
1938 Henri Coanda - discul volant.

1952 Ia fiinta Institutul National de Geronto-Geriatrie "Dr. Ana Aslan", primul institut de geriatrie din lume, model pentru tarile dezvoltate, prin asistenta clinica si cercetare. "Ana Aslan" are, anual, mii de pacienti. Efectele terapiei Aslan asupra îmbatrânirii au convins înca de la început, aducând institutului pacienti cu nume celebre: Tito, de Gaulle, Pinochet, Chaplin, Claudia Cardinale, printese, conti si directori ai unor mari banci ale lumii. Renumele produselor "Aslan" a trecut si Oceanul, John Kennedy recurgând, pentru o afectiune a coloanei vertebrale, la un tratament la domiciliu cu "Gerovital".

O mentiune speciala facem pentru Stefan Procopiu, fizician de renume mondial, doctor honoris causa al mai multor universitati, membru al Academiei Române, intemeietorul scolii romanesti de magnetism, om de mare tinuta profesionala, de înalta atitudine civica si patriotism. In 1919, plecând de la teoria cuantelor a lui Max Planck, calculeaza valoarea magnetonului teoretic (unitatea elementara de energie magnetica), astazi cunoscut ca "magnetonul Bohr-Procopiu" . In 1921 descopera fenomenul de
depolarizare a luminii in suspensii si coloizi, denumit fenomenul Procopiu, urmat in 1930 de efectul Procopiu, in magnetism. Propus spre acordarea premiului Nobel pentru fizica de catre comisia de recomandari in urma dovedirii teoretice a existentei magnetonului, a fost privat pe nedrept de distinctie, aceasta fiindu-i inmanata savantului danez Niels Bohr, desi descoperirea a fost anuntata intai de roman.

O sincronicitate uimitoare a fost sesizata de unele persoane: vehiculul descris de profetul biblic Ezechiel a fost asemuit cu ingenioasele centuri zburatoare testate de americani în 1961, dar, desi americanii au fost creditati ca autori ai inventiei, adevaratul inventator este Justin Capra care, în 1958 a proiectat, realizat si zburat cu un astfel de aparat. Acum, acest aparat a fost îmbunatatit si este folosit (cu o autonomie de 30 40 minute) pentru salvarea rapida de pe platformele marine si pentru supravegherea zonelor forestiere.

Un crater de pe luna poarta numele lui. Spiru Haret. Aceasta deoarece savantul român a demonstrat ca axa mare a elipsei pe care se deplaseaza Pamântul în jurul soarelui este de o marime variabila, creând premisele de baza ale astrofizicii moderne.

Mai putem semnala existenta unor personalitati, adevaratele "vârfuri de talie universala" aparute dintre minoritatile din România, în toate domeniile. Un exemplu de prim rang: prof. Herman Oberth, un sas din Sibiu, considerat "parintele navigatiei spatiale" si, de asemenea, profesorul lui Werner von Braun, seful
programului rachetelor americane "Saturn".

Stefan Odobleja - Parintele ciberneticii generalizate .
Timisoara - primul oras european cu iluminat stradal cu energie electrica (noiembrie 1884).

Griogore Antipa - savant naturalist, inventatorul dioramelor (1912).

Ion Agarbiceanu - primul laser cu gaz (heliu-neon) cu radiatie infrarosie (1962).

Dumitru Daponte - inventatorul modalitatii de proiectare a filmului in relief.

Iulius Popper - inventatorul unui dispozitiv pentru recoltarea aurului din apa marii; in plus este cel care a dat denumiri romanesti unor locuri din Tara de Foc (Sinaia, Ureche, Lahovary, Rosetti).

Aurel Persu - a stabilit ca automobilul cu cele mai corecte forme aerodinamice trebuie sa fie proiectat avand forma unei picaturi de apa, in cadere. General Motors precum si Ford au facut propuneri pentru achizitionarea patentului.

Anghel Saligny - construieste in premiera mondiala, la Braila si Galati, silozuri din beton armat (pentru poduri).

Eliza Leonida Zamfirescu - prima femeie inginer din lume.

Smaranda Braescu - una din primele femei parasutis din lume,detinatoare a mai multe recorduri mondiale in domeniu.

...si continua
Citat:
O alta idee propagata destul de puternic în societatea româneasca de astazi este ca, deloc mândri cu originea lor, unii dintre români afirma ca toate aceste prilejuri de mândrie nationala tin doar de domeniul trecutului, ca România de astazi ar fi. o "tara bolnava", fara civilizatie, fara personalitati marcante, ea fiind mereu "codasa Europei".
Pentru a contracara astfel de teorii negativiste, menite sa-i tina pe români "la locul lor" (si departându-i de traditia si sufletul neamului românesc), teorii stabilite de cei ce se doresc "Atotputernicii Lumii", Iluminati sau francmasoni, vom oferi si o serie de realizari ale geniului românesc ale ultimilor ani:

Dr. fiz. Eugen Pavel, de la Institutul de Fizica Atomica de la Magurele, a realizat un CD ROM (din sticla) cu o capacitate de stocare de 15.000 ori mai mare decât a unuia obisnuit. Pe 5 astfel de CD uri ar putea fi stocata întreaga Biblioteca a Academiei Române, iar informatiile ar putea rezista 5.000 de ani!!! În noiembrie 1999, inventia sa a fost premiata cu medalia de aur la Salonul Mondial al Inventiilor "Bruxelles Europa", iar autorul doreste cu orice pret producerea de serie în România. Dar forurile din România întârzie la nesfârsit formalitatile.

Constantin Pascu a realizat în anul 2000, în premiera mondiala, un aparat care purifica aerul în spatiile de locuit: distruge bacteriile din aer, retine praful si fumul de tigara, atmosfera devenind "ca în salina sau pe litoralul marin". Instalarea acestui aparat costa atunci doar 480.000 lei!.

Petrica Ionescu este cel mai important regizor de opera dupa Zefirelli (afirmatie facuta de George Astalos, în ian.2001) . România a câstigat Campionatul Mondial de bridge (considerat de multi drept cel mai inteligent joc de carti) pe Internet, în 16.11.2000 (107 - 75 cu SUA în finala).

Hackerii români sunt considerati printre cei mai buni (si mai periculosi) din lume. "Distractia" (conform declaratiei lor, ei nu fura informatii, ci doar doresc sa îsi dovedeasca . valoarea) celor "5 magnifici de la Rasarit" a obligat CIA sa trimita o delegatie la Bucuresti. Printre site urile "sparte" de ei: US Army, US Air Force, US Navy, NASA, Coast Guard, departamente federale, etc.

La salonul inventiilor de la Geneva (aprilie 2001), România s a clasat pe locul I în privinta numarului de premii obtinute si pe locul II (dupa Rusia) ca numar de inventii prezentate. Adica a luat premii pentru toate cele 62 de inventii prezentate (22 premii I; 18 premii II; 22 premii III)!!
Delegatia româna s-a mai întors de la Geneva si cu 4 premii speciale din partea delegatiilor altor tari, un premiu de creativitate (pentru Ionut Moraru-inventia "Biomer"), Medalia expozitiei si Diploma salonului pentru contributia exceptionala în promovarea inventiilor.

Prof. Stefania Cory Calomfirescu a primit medalia de aur a mileniului din partea Universitatii Cambridge (ian. 2001), fiind aleasa si în Consiliul Director al prestigioasei institutii britanice. Posesoare a doua certificate de inovator, autoare a 8 tratate de neurologie,

Sefa Clinicii de Neurologie din Cluj Napoca este primul medic din lume care a scris un tratat despre edemul cerebral. În plus, medicul român a primit si medalia de onoare a mileniului din partea Institutului Biografic American, fiind numita si în conducerea acestei unitati.

Dr. Maria Georgescu, eleva prof. Ana Aslan si director al institutului cu acelasi nume, a avut o serie de pacienti celebri: Charlie Chaplin, Leonid Brejnev, Iosip Broz Tito, J.F.Kennedy, Charles de Gaulle, presedintii Suharto si Ferdinand Marcos, generalul Augusto Pinochet (1993), printul Agacan (cu sotia), contele Olivetti, contesa Zwarowskzy, etc.

La olimpiada internationala de matematica de la Washington (iulie 2001), elevii români au obtinut o medalie de aur, doua de argint si trei de bronz. Ei sunt din Galati, Arad, Vâlcea si Constanta. Participarea la olimpiade internationale de matematica si fizica: 500 de elevi din 83 de tari.
Mihai Manea, medaliatul cu aur (din Galati) are, la 18 ani, un palmares impresionant: medalii de aur timp de trei ani consecutiv la internationale si Balcaniada. Fireste, el a fost "racolat" imediat de americani, optând pentru Universitatea din Princetown (SUA). Stefan Cosmin Buca, Maria Popa si Mihai Ivanescu au fost nominalizati, în vara anului 2001, pentru Premiul Nobel de catre institutii din SUA!
Primul este student la Economie, ceilalti participa la programe în colaborare cuNASA.
Nicu Mincu din comuna Ivesti (Galati) vindeca diverse boli cu leacuri si ceaiuri preparate din 170 de plante. La 81 de ani, arata ca la 50,pentru ca, spune el, a descoperit un (secret) elixir al tineretii.

România este pe primele locuri în lume la. exportul de inteligenta.
De exemplu, la "Microsoft", a doua limba vorbita este româna, iar la NASA multi dintre specialistii de prim rang sunt tot români.

Radu Teodorescu este proprietarul celei mai renumite sali de
gimnastica din SUA (Manhattan/New York). Emigrat în 1972, a ajuns cel mai celebru profesor de fitness de peste Ocean, printre clientii sai numarându se Robert Redford, Cindy Crawford, Candice Berger, Susan Sarandon, Mick Jagger, s.a.
Celebrele casete video lectii de fitness produse de Cindy Crawford
începând din 1992 au fost realizate împreuna cu antrenorul sau, Radu Teodorescu, care doreste sa înfiinteze în România primul institut din lume de pregatire a profesorilor de educatie fizica în fitness pentru adulti.

Nicolae Balasa (39 de ani), un inginer mecanic din Dolj, socoteste mental mai rapid decât calculatorul (înmultiri, împartiri, ecuatii de gradul II, radicali de ordinul III si IV)! Fost inginer la Uzina Mecanica Filiasi, din 1994 Nicolae Balasa este actualmente somer.

Ion Scripcaru, strungar si lacatus mecanic din satul Uzunu (Giurgiu) nu gaseste de 4 ani, 15.000 USD pentru a si realiza inventia epocala (pâna la proba practica): motorul care nu consuma nimic! Acesta ar trebui sa functioneze pe baza gravitatiei, fiind în fapt "instalatie mecanica amplificatoare de putere, capabila sa transforme forta statica gravitationala în lucru mecanic". "S-ar închide toate centralele nucleare", spune el. Numai ca OSIM (Oficiul de Stat pentru Inventii si Marci) a refuzat sa-i breveteze inventia în lipsa unei machete functionale, doar pe baza schitelor. Petre Roman si Ministerul Cercetarii si Tehnologiei l-au tratat cu indiferenta (1997), iar sponsorii nu se înghesuie (ca si statul) sa i asigure cei 15.000 USD necesari.

Sandu Popescu din Oradea este primul fizician din lume care a reusit teleportarea unei particule. O aplicatie a acestei inventii: criptografia, transmiterea mesajelor secrete. Acest eveniment epocal a avut loc în 4 iulie 1997, în laboratoarele din Bristol (Anglia) ale celebrei firme "Hewlett Packard". Pe vremea lui Ceausescu, Sandu Popescu a reusit "performanta" de a fi somer în România.

Ioan Davidoni (52 de ani), un banatean sarac material dar bogat în idei geniale, este un exemplu relevant pentru modul în care ne pierdem cea mai mare bogatie: inteligenta si inventivitatea. Angajat al fabricii de sticla din Tomesti (Timis), pentru care a realizat, în câtiva ani, 45 de inventii si inovatii, el a fost disponibilizat când a îndraznit sa si ceara drepturile (o parte din cele 4,3 miliarde de lei economii aduse fabricii la nivelul anului 1995, adica. de 4 ori greutatea sa în aur!) si apoi a fost reangajat ca muncitor. "din mila"!!
Ulterior, Ioan Davidoni a mai realizat doua inventii de exceptie: un recuperator de pelicula de titei si pantofi magnetici antistress ce pot asigura o longevitate de peste 100 de ani. Prima inventie valoreaza miliarde de dolari în Vest, a doua a înregistrat o inutil la OSIM, pentru ca atât chinezii cât si americanii i au furat si folosit inventia cu un profit imens.
De exemplu, în SUA s au vândut peste 10 milioane de perechi, cu un profit de peste 1 miliard de dolari. În acest timp, statul român ignora în continuare o inventie, într adevar de miliarde.

Anonim nascut la 14.11.1902, în Câmpina este redescoperitorul tratamentului cu lumina. Prietenul sau, Albert Einstein l-a avertizat: "Esti un visator. Cine crezi ca o sa-ti permita sa distrugi întreaga industrie farmaceutica si sa revolutionezi medicina?" Mai târziu, Elena Ceausescu i-a propus, prin intermediari, s- i cedeze inventia.
Pâna la urma, avea sa ajunga prioritatea neuropatologului Peter Mendel, ca atâtea alte inventii românesti "pierdute" în strainatate .

În 1991, Carol Przybilla a înregistrat la OSIM brevetul unui aparat bazat pe inventia sa mai veche, neconcretizat nici pâna acum. Între timp, principii incluse în tehnologia aparatului au fost utilizate în
realizarea hiperboloidului inginerului rus Garin, cu aplicatii militare malefice. Carol Przybilla a mai realizat si alte inventii deosebite: turbina cu combustie interna (1958, vânduta de statul român firmei General Motors), termocompresor frigorific cu circuit închis (1959), motor eliptic, fara biela (vânduta Japoniei si folosita în celebrele motociclete japoneze), arma defensiva antitanc (anii `90).

Justin Capra este un inventator celebru al României, din pacate mereu tratat cu indiferenta (chiar ostilitate) de autoritatile statului, conditii în care nu e de mirare ca unele din inventiile sale (de miliarde de dolari) i-au fost pur si simplu furate de americani. În 1956, la nici 25 de ani, Justin Capra a inventat primul rucsac zburator, un aparat individual de zbor. Dupa 7 ani în care "semidoctii savanti" l-au tratat cu dispret pentru ca era doar tehnician si nu inginer, în 1963, americanii Wendell Moore, Cecil Martin si Robert Cunings au preluat inventia din România si au lansat o în fabricatia de serie. În 1958, Justin Capra a realizat prima varianta a rachetonautului, cu care s a ridicat de la pamânt la. Ambasada SUA din Bucuresti. Rezultatul: inventia a fost si aceasta furata si brevetata în 1962 de Wendell Moore ("specializat" deja!), iar inventatorul. a fost arestat de Securitate pentru ca ar fi dorit sa fuga din tara cu aparatul sau. Justin Capra mai este si realizatorul celui mai mic autoturism din lume, "Soleta", care consuma . 0,5l/100 km si al unei motorete unica în lume ce functioneaza cu acumulatori (37 kg, 30 km/h, 80 km autonomie cu o încarcare).

Mihai Rusetel a inventat motorul cu apa! "Cazul Rusetel", este
elocvent pentru geniul românesc dar si pentru "talentul" cu care ne risipim fortele si putem sa ne pierdem valorile. Proiectul a fost depus la OSIM în 1980 si a fost brevetat în . ianuarie 2001. Pâna atunci, Securitatea l-a sicanat pentru refuzul de a cesiona inventia statului, iar în februarie 1990, precaut, el a refuzat angajarea ca si consilier tehnic la "Mercedes" (2.500 DM lunar) pentru a nu pierde, eventual, proprietatea inventiei.
Motorul sau se bazeaza, ca principiu de functionare, pe "cazanul Traian Vuia", inventie folosita înca la locomotivele Diesel electrice pentru încalzirea vagoanelor. Poate fi utilizat în domeniul transporturilor terestre si navale, în locul turbinelor din termocentrale, si chiar a centralelor termoelectrice.
În lume, mai exista doua brevete în domeniu (Japonia si SUA), dar acestea nu depasesc nivelul locomotivei cu aburi, necesitând combustibil solid sau lichid. "Motorul Rusetel" foloseste drept combustibil doar apa, si are dimensiunile unui motor de Dacie, sursa de energie initiala fiind o banala baterie de masina.
Datele tehnice preconizate de a patra sa macheta (10 l/100 km consum de apa, 70 km/h viteza maxima) pot fi îmbunatatite la realizarea prototipului: un motor cu apa montat pe o Dacie 1310.
Directorul general al Uzinelor Dacia, ing.Constantin Stroe, care cunoaste acest proiect chiar din 1980, a afirmat ca este dispus sa ajute inventatorul cu orice are nevoie pentru realizarea prototipului si a declarat, încântat: "reusita ar fi un miracol, si cred ca în asemenea caz ar trebui sa se inventeze pentru acest om Premiul Super Nobel".

can you put that in english, for those of us who do not read write in whatever language that was.... could be Italian or Romanian, or Portugese , I don't speak or read any of them, sorry!

jwalsh1 (author)spark master2015-07-13

Google translate works pretty well, just copy and paste

It's Romanian. I can't help you translate, sorry! Nu vorbesc româneşte...

grayl (author)minitehnicus2015-07-12

Was this really necessary in an Instructable about how to make something?

woody1459 (author)grayl2015-07-13

Thank God for a common sense comment

"Roma", not Romanian.

Take time to look up Romanichal, frequently referred to Rumnichal or Rumnichel and confused with Romanian Gypsies. The mode of early transportation for the Romanichal Gypsy's was the wagon, VERY similar to the one built here. The main part of this very informative article was building the wagon not attempting to historically reproduce the cart.

WalterByrd (author)CaseyCase2015-07-12

Pejorative is ok now and then, eh?

The Roma remind me, in some ways of the Masaai, who believe God clearly designated them owners of every cow on earth. If you happen to own any cows near the Masaai, you are only a temporary owner, until the Masaai morani take them back, where they belong!

Roma pretty much the same, eh? Everything belongs to them, just that you are keeping it awhile until they travel by, reclaiming the stuff they need at that time, usually the middle of the night......

SideShowMom (author)CaseyCase2015-07-12

It is nice to see folks helping to teach better words for things and people.

billbillt (author)CaseyCase2015-07-12

Lookout!!... The thought police are at it again!!....

rahvin (author)2015-07-14

May I suggest using conventional framing nails (#9) in equal proportion to the screws you plan to use. Screws have significantly less shear strength than nails and is the reason they aren't allowed to be used as the primary fastener in residential wood homes.

ganeshruskin (author)rahvin2015-07-30

Good point but I feel mobile construction has quite different requirements to stationary building, the nails I have used have all backed out over time. I recommend good quality screws, and plenty of them. None have sheared through all the abuse we have put this thing….

rahvin (author)ganeshruskin2015-07-31

It was just a suggestion. Without proper nails if you were to sell this and it collapsed on someone and killed them you would more than likely be held liable for not following local building and engineering codes.

The purpose of nails is to resist shear within the wood frame created by winds, vibration and snow loads which apply eccentric loadings to the frame. As I noted previously screws have less than half the shear strength of a framing nail. There is nothing wrong with using screws as long as nails are used in the proper proportion. There are plenty of methods to prevent the nails from backing out but more importantly you know the roof won't fall in on you some night when the wind is high because all the screws got sheared from the vibration while you were driving it to it's destination.

Again, simply a suggestion, it's your head under the roof.

gamaster (author)2015-07-25

What kind of vehicle do you use to pull the wagon? Roughly how much does it weigh? Thanks!

ganeshruskin (author)gamaster2015-07-30

We use a small toyota truck. It weighs probably 800-900 pounds empty..

ganeshruskin (author)2015-07-30

I'm quite sure you could make it out of a giant wine barrel, though I think it might be more of a redwood water tank. No problems licensing in Oregon, no license needed under 2000 pounds. So far, we have had zero attention or trouble from police, and don't expect to..

sandrawalls (author)2015-07-18

I love this!.What a awesome idea & love the way you designed it! Ill.be waiting for the new wagon your building! Cant wait to see it!

Signready (author)2015-07-15

Fantastic work. I love this.

kasatwo (author)2015-07-14

I haven't made it yet....But I think you gave me another project to try....I like what you did...

skeeterlegs1972 (author)2015-07-13

that is a very nice trailer..great workmanship to all whom was involved....if you pull it behind a car or truck will the wind tear up the canvas roof and sides??

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