Contemporary Street Number Plaque

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Introduction: Contemporary Street Number Plaque

About: I have a penchant for anything that requires tinkering or fiddling. I have a particular fondness for woodworking and props/replicas.

I've had it out for the house number plaque on my house for a couple of years, now. It was cheesy, plain, and completely fulfilled my daily allotment of "blah". If someone's looking for my house, that's the first thing they'll look for, so that's worth making it unique, right?

So, I found a style of house numbers that I liked at Home Depot for pretty cheap, but I have brick exterior and didn't want to just stick them to the wall. I looked for a plaque or something similar to mount them on, but everything commercially available looked cheap and tacky, and remember, we're going for unique. Then I remembered that chunk of Lexan sitting at home in my garage...

Update:

Check out step five for a description & pictures of my second attempt at the project which is, in my opinion, a huge improvement over the original.

Step 1: Stuff You'll Need

So, in order to pull this off, here's what we'll need...

Tools:
Drill (or drill press)
Assorted Drill Bits
Orbital Sander w/ 150 & 220 grit sand paper*
Saw (just to cut the lexan to size. I used a jigsaw, but a table saw would work much better.)
Screwdrivers

*You may be able to sand this by hand, but the orbital sander would give you a much more uniform finish.

Materials:
A piece of Lexan
#10 Lead Shields x 4
#10 2 1/2" Screws x 4
House Numbers

And off we go...


Step 2: "Frosting" the Lexan

The Lexan wouldn't make the numbers pop out if it were left clear, so I "frosted" it a bit by sanding it. This particular piece of polycarbonate has UV protection on one side, so it bears noting that you should sand the non-protected side and mount the numbers on the protected side. The protective film says that the "non-printed" side is UV resistant, so we start with the other side. Just peel off the film, but make sure to leave the film intact on the other side for now.

I started with several passes using 150 grit, making sure to make overlapping, even passes. When it really started to lose its transparency, I switched over to 220 grit and made several more passes. The 220 grit might not really be necessary, but it certainly made it nice and smooth.

Once I was happy with the finish, I cleaned it off with some glass cleaner and flipped it over to start drilling.

Note: Don't remove the protective film yet!!!

Step 3: Layout and Drilling

Now, this step will vary widely depending on the style of house number that you choose, the means by which that number is attached, and how you plan on attaching this to your house. Also, since I left the protective film on this side, I could mark my drilling points directly on the Lexan. Pretty convenient.

The numbers I bought had threaded sockets on the back to attach metal studs which were intended to be glued into holes in my house. I tried this approach once. Strife, pain, profanity and crookedness ran rampant. I don't suggest it. However, those threaded sockets made them very easy to attach to my Lexan with 3/8" #8 screws. I simply used the included templates to lay out my guides for drilling.

As far as laying out the holes to attach it to the house, I specifically lined everything up in such a way that I would only have to drill into the mortar between the bricks. Since I'm mounting this on brickwork, this is useful for a few reasons:

1) Its much easier to line everything up
2) The mortar is easy to drill through. Have you ever tried drilling into a brick?! I did one time. I died a little that day.
3) If you make a mistake or have to move your house numbers, its pretty easy to fill in the holes in mortar.

Once I had everything marked, I grabbed the appropriate drill bit and went to drilling. This part is easy, but you have to be extremely accurate if you want everything to look straight and neat.

NOTE: When drilling your holes, make sure to drill them just a little bit large. Polycarbonate has a tendency to expand and contract with weather changes, so you want to give it some wiggle room.

Step 4: Hardware and Sticking It to the Wall

Once everything was drilled, I took the protective film off and attached the numbers. I took a lot of care during this step as to not scratch the thing all to hell.

After the numbers we're attached, I turned my attention to actually making it stick to the house. I used lead shields, which are little lead anchors designed attach stuff to brick or mortar. Just like a drywall anchor, you just drill the appropriate sized hole and tap it in with a hammer. Now, I could just slap it on the wall as is, but I wanted to make it sort of "float" out from the wall just a smidge. I found these little aluminum spacers in the "Stuff You'll Never Need" drawer in the fastener aisle at Home Depot. They just go in between the Lexan and the wall. When tightening down the screws, it bears noting that if you torque everything down too tight, the Lexan will warp a bit. If that happens, just back it off a bit until it straightens out.

Step 5: Done!

And its done! I'm extremely pleased with this. I purposely left the space below the numbers so I can add my street name in black vinyl lettering from a sign shop later.

This was my first instructable, so forgive me if its a little simplistic. Please let me know what you think.

Update:

Since posting this, I have moved and had the opportunity to create version 2.0 of this project, so to speak. The improvements I made consisted of:

More Interesting Hardware (hex drive bolts and finishing washers)
Longer Spacers (1" to make it stand off of the wall a little further)
Rustoleum Window Frosting Spray (created a more opaque effect while still staying adequately transparent, also allowed for the edges to be masked off to create a clear border)

I've included pictures below.  Thanks for looking.

2 People Made This Project!

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61 Discussions

This went so well for me!
Thank you so much for your help.
I, like you, used the frosting spray (valspar- but who cares!) and went over very well. Minus a few of my own errors. Minus painting this was the first addition to our new home. With this addition it really feels like ours now!

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Sorry for the monstrously late reply, but I wanted to thank you for posting the pictures of your results. It looks great!

This is very timely for me. I'm doing some outdoor renovations right now and house numbers are on the agenda. I don't like the plain wooden ones my wife bought at Menard's and then painted. They are just too ordinary. This is an excellent idea and, as someone said earlier, "a work of art". My wife will be pleasantly surprised when this shows up on the front of the house in place of her blah numbers. I will not be adding LEDs. They're just lame. Question: did you get the numbers at HD in Canada or the USA? Excellent Instructable too, by the way (clear, good pics, nothing extra or distracting).

2 replies

i am particularly happy with this your project . I am currently going through a project but i need allot of these . I will need your assistance if possible especially as they carry logo and addresses.

I've been looking for something unique and I think this is it, very simple and very nice looking. Good job!

Really nice. I've looked at this a few times, and I think I am going to copy yours. Looks clean and modern and tasteful. I also like the improvements you've made; anyone who didn't know would suppose you paid a pretty penny for it. Thanks for posting!

Hello,
your post is so great that it inspired me as well as many others here and I created my own. I used two sheets of Lexan - clear and frosted (at this point must admit that sanding went a LOT better than Rustoleum spray). Front sheet with numbers on it is clear, mounted to the frosted one 1 inch. behind all offset from wall 0.5 inch. I live in MCM neighborhood and already got a lot of compliments. Thanks a lot for nice and helpful inspiration. Cheers

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Of course pictures don't do it any justice ;) It's all set against brown wall, so it really pops, unlike picture here

I was about to make one of these for my mailbox and went to the local hardware store on my lunch break for supplies. Sticker shock - Those numbers are over $5 each. Great instructable!

I'm definitely going to try this!! Just moved into a new house and I still don't have my house number mounted (only the lot number).. I'm going to add a photo transistor, with a couple of white LEDs behind, so when night falls, they LEDs behind will light up adding to the contrast of the sanded lexan, and the numbers. I'm excited to try this. Just out of curiosity, what grit did you use to sand? 200, 220? or even as high as 400, 600 or 800? Thanks!

I have to say this is pretty cool. That also happens to be my house number :D I laughed at that. Also, as many of my friends have pointed out that is Master Chief's number from the Halo games :P I'll be putting something similar to that on my house :P Thank you :D

For the LED lighting idea, you could always drill into the lexan behind the numbers and epoxy the LED's into the sheet, thus concealing the lighting, as opposed to attaching them to the sides. The result should be the same as if they were attached to the sides, but without marring the appearance. This part might be over-complicating things, but you could also remove some of the mortar between bricks in a path from the light to behind the sign, hide circuitry for powering the LED in the base of the light, and then cover the wires in fresh mortar so that they wouldn't be seen, thus providing power for lighting without a tacky battery pack or LEDs being visible. If you wanted all that extra work. ~adamvan2000

I like this, but I would add a larger clear piece to the back, just for added dimension. I intend to make one for my house too :-).

How big of a piece of Lexan did you use? Also is all Lexan UV protected? The 8 x 12 sheet i bought only had clear blue plastic on one side.

1 reply

I don't recall what size I ended up with, I just laid the numbers on it and eyeballed it. 8 x 12 should be plenty big enough, though. If I recall correctly, the side with the blue film is protected, so just make sure that side faces out.

Very good work. This is the kind of instructable I love. Simple tools and simple process, and it yields a terrific result.

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I used your 150/220 grit sandpaper idea on some acrylic for a project that I'm still working on, it turned out pretty good! I want a laser cutter that'll cut acrylic, that's my dream.