Introduction: Controllable RGB LED System for Your Home or Office

Picture of Controllable RGB LED System for Your Home or Office

Are the lights in your home or work space boring? Do you want to add a little energy or mood lighting to your room? This Instructable shows you how to create a controllable RGB LED array for use in your home or office. Your red, green, blue LED display will provide hours of enjoyment for you and your family as well as make you the envy of your tech friends!

This Instructable is based on two systems built by us, Brilldea, using products we designed. One system was built for our home and the other for our church. Check out the videos of the systems in action!

This is our living room LED system.

This is the LED system we created for Island ECC in Hong Kong.

You can discover our products at our web site:

Step 1: Planning the System

Picture of Planning the System

All good RGB LED systems start with a bit of planning and forethought. This step is crucial in determining your engineering requirements for the system, such as power supply size and number of control channels, as well as how much the system will cost. And don't forget the artistic intent - planning will help you visualize the look of the system and how it will interact with your space.

1. First thing to figure out is the area where you want to add the LED lighting. You need to visualize where the LED system will be mounted and you should consider the LEDs, the controller(s), the power supply and related cables. The most important aspect of this step is to determine the area the LEDs will illuminate. Do you have a cove where you want to place the lighting? Can you rearrange furniture to make a gap for LEDs? Are you remodelling where you can plan a special place for your LEDs and associated hardware to be embedded in a wall or the floor?

Our living room system was built in between our Ikea book cases. The Island ECC system was designed while the room was being constructed so a special space was carved out for it such that the lights fit right within the walls.

2. Once you have an area picked out, the next thing to consider is how many LEDs you want to use to cover that area. There are several variables to consider. Will the LEDs project onto a translucent surface? Will the LEDs be viewed directly? How deep is the space where the LEDS are mounted? How translucent is your material that is being projected on? Do you want to illuminate shapes and patterns in the LED array? How bright do you want the light to be?

You will need to consider the size of each "pixel" in the system. For our systems we used our RGB LED Ribbon. This is a 10cm flexible printed circuit board with 3 RGB LEDs on it. The LEDs are wired in series so each strip operates on 12V DC. The LEDs are controlled as a group.

Each system we designed had different depths and different translucent material to project on. Your spacing and size will vary based on your location and budget. We used both a milky plexiglass and a corugated white plastic.

Our living room LED system used 32 pieces of the 10cm RGB LED Ribbon, 16 in each column. The Island ECC system used 48 pieces in each "window" and there were three windows.

3. Once you have determined the quantity of LEDs to install, then you can start planning the number of control channels for the system, the current for your power supply and the distribution of the wiring.

The following video shows the setup and testing of the Island ECC system. The video include notes on the components and it shows off the test routines used during assembly and installation.

Step 2: LED System Components

Picture of LED System Components

An LED system is comprised of several components. Let's take a moment to review those components.

1. The LED system needs a brain to control all those LEDs. This brain is usually a microcontroller such as the Parallax Propeller or SX or PIC or Arduino. This controller may cycle the LEDs using preprogrammed algorithms or change the LEDs based on an external connection to a DMX-512A system or serial (RS-232). We designed the Prop Blade controller for our specific applications of LED systems. The Prop Blade accepts 6V to 12V DC and has connections for both serial (via the programming header) and DMX-512A. In addition it has status LEDs for feedback and DIP switches and buttons for user input. You can get the Prop Blade as a kit from Brilldea if you want to use this controller. You are also welcome to make your own.

2. One or more LED driver modules is needed to control all the LEDs, after all a microcontroller only has so many I/O pins. To control this many LEDs, the microcontroller needs help so we designed the LED Painter. The LED Painter can control 16 channels of RGB LEDs. This means that we can hook up 16 pieces of RGB LED Ribbon, one to each channel, and control the color and intensity of each ribbon. The LED Painter is based on the TLC5940 IC from Texas Instruments. There is code available online for both the Propeller and Arduino for controlling this IC. You can also get LED Painter kits from Brilldea.

3. And of course, every LED system needs...well...umm...LEDs! That is right, lots of red, green, blue LEDs! We like the convenience of the RGB LED Ribbon we sell. The back side of the product has an adhesive on it so it mounts easily to surfaces. The LEDs and resistors are already assembled and it runs on 12V DC. Furthermore it can be flexed to mount on curved surfaces if needed. If you want, you could use your own LEDs. You don't even have to use RGB LEDs, you could attach 48 single color LEDs or 24 of one color and 24 of another color. Check out the LED Painter data sheet for more details.

4. All the equipment in the system would be for nothing if you didn't supply power. Yes, all these components need DC power. Our systems are designed to run on 12V DC. The quantity of LEDs in your system will dictate the amount of current your supply will need to provide. We used 12V DC, 5 amp supplies for our install and had plenty of room left over for expansion. If you want to be more precise, you will need to calculate the current draw of the LEDs you use in your system as well as the current needed for your controller and drivers.

5. Here are a few more items that complete the system:
  • Cable and wire for distributing power and control signals.
  • A computer and programming hardware for your controller. If you are using the Prop Blade which is based on the Parallax Propeller, you will want to purchase a Prop Plug from Parallax.
  • Electronic and hand tools for assembling your system such as soldering iron, pliers, screw drivers, cutting tools and wire strippers.
  • Any mounting hardware needed for mounting your controller, drivers, power supply, etc.
  • A DMX-512A source, if you want to use DMX to control your LED system; this is optional.

6. Now that you have thought about the shape, space, size and look of your system, as well as considered the materials required, you can start pricing it. Your system cost will vary based on its size and what materials you may already have from past projects. If you have a microcontroller sitting around, then you might be able to use that. Remember to price the system out and to set realistic costs for the "non-trivial" items like connectors, ribbon cables, and AC cords because those costs can add up.

The following video shows an overview of our home LED system. This system was our first one created, so the hardware used in the system is a first revision. Brilldea's current Prop Blade and LED Painter are updated designs needed to accomplish a similar system.

Step 3: Construction Time!

Picture of Construction Time!

By the time you reach this step, you should have completed your design and purchased all your parts. I love receiving boxes of parts to make my great ideas into reality, how about you? Nothing beats putting your hands to work building the design that you crafted in the previous steps.

When I assemble a system, I take my time to double check my construction. I double check components before populating a PCB, I double check connections that are soldered or terminated such as data cables, and I test the system at increments as I go along.

With a large RGB LED system there are many things that can go wrong, so testing as you go along is a good idea. This technique will help you identify problems before they become bigger problems and damage other components. For instance, we tested the
Prop Blade controller before we attached it to the LED Painter driver PCB.

When you start constructing your system, the first thing you should do is assemble your controller and LED driver circuits. If you are using a kit like one of ours, great, then the procurement of parts was easy and assembly shouldn't take too long. If you are building your own controller and LED driver this step may take more time. Don't worry though because the effort is worth it when you get the controller of your system working.

When assembling a kit, you should print out the schematic and bill of materials to make sure you use the right components and place the component in the right spot.

When you finish assembling your controller, take the time to power it on and test it. Download a simple program to the controller to verify that the controller works. In our case, we used the Parallax Prop Plug to download software to the Prop Blade.

Once you finish a driver board, power it on to make sure nothing explodes. Once you've passed that test, add a single RBG LED to a channel and attach the driver to your controller. Use a simple program to verify that the controller can control the driver/RGB LED setup. Again, for the Prop Blade and LED Painter we have example programs on our site:

Now that you have the electronics done, let's move on to the LEDs!

Step 4: LED Assembly

Picture of LED Assembly

The most tedious part of an RGB LED array is the LED construction and connections. This step usually involves lots of wire cutting, striping, crimping, and soldering. Not to mention the double checking of each connection to make sure it was done right. If you find ways to improve this process, let us know in the comments.

Again, this step takes time. Plan the debut of your system accordingly so you don't have to rush at the last minute to finish all the work that needs to be done. Staying up all night to create your master piece will result in damaging your components because of miswiring. Take your time and double check connections.

Our systems were designed in modules so we could easily assemble the system on site. The systems were also easier to test as we assembled them. For instance, the LEDs for the Island ECC system were assembled on panels that were 1 meter long by 0.4 meters tall. Each panel was identical so we made a pattern for where to mount the LEDs, how to route the wires and where to place the LED Painter.

This step is pretty easy technically, just repetitive and time consuming. If you use the RGB LED Ribbon then you can mount the LEDs to a surface by removing the covering over the adhesive backing. Make sure to mount the LEDs to a clean surface. Add wires, connectors and harnesses as required. We like to have connectors in case we need to remove a piece of equipment for inspection or replacement. You may choose to solder all the connections and forego the expense and time required to add connectors.

Once the LEDs are ready, plug them into your LED Driver circuit or LED Painter assembly and test. You might want to plug each LED channel in one at a time rather than all of them at once.

If you assemble the system in modules, then you will have to install each module in its final location. When you install them, be sure to power them on one at a time. Again, checking your connections before you power them on.

As mentioned in the other steps, our systems use the Prop Blade. The Prop Blade has two groups of I/O. Each I/O group can run up to two LED Painters in a series, so that is four LED Painters for one controller. More could be run, but you need to pay attention to details of wire length and signals strength, and we have found that buffering circuits should be built to increase reliability. Be aware that the LED Painter needs to be close to the Prop Blade controller. Installing an LED Painter 20ft from your controller that uses 3.3V DC logic signals will produce poor results or no results at all. Consider your mounting locations carefully.

Once you get the LEDs installed you are nearly there. At this point you have no doubt done some power-on test and felt the excitement of the system coming alive!

Step 5: Final Touches

Picture of Final Touches

Once we get the system installed we sit back and enjoy it. Well, maybe not yet. Of course, there are problems that come up along the way while building and installing the system so by this point you may have to do some troubleshooting. Hopefully the major problems were discovered in the incremental testing done during the construction. By the time the whole system is up, usually everything is in working order.

At this step you can finalize the mounting and wiring of components and make everything tidy. You can also tweak (or start writing!) your control software. Writing the software is a lot of fun, especially when you get to the higher level software that describes what the LEDs look like. I call those routines the "painting" routines.

Previously I mentioned that you can control your system through different means. Some people just want to turn the system on and let it cycle by itself. In this type of system there should be preprogrammed routines or algorithms to fade, wipe or place random colors on the screen.

Demo code for the Prop Blade and LED Painter can be found on the Parallax Propeller Object Exchange or the Brilldea web site. The example code shows simple algorithms for fading and changing color.

Other people are control freaks! They want to control every pixel and every color in precise synchronization. The LED Painter and Prop Blade combo allows for DMX-512A control(like RS-485) or serial control (through the Prop plug). This means you can use software on your PC such as Vixen Lights to design a show with light and music synchronization. With the LED Painter, each control channel can be controlled from off to on in 255 steps. This allows for mixing of colors at various intensities.

Other things you could do with your LED system:

  • Make it detect the beat of a song and change the look based on that. This would entail adding a microphone to your system and processing the input.
  • Make it detect video and change the look based on that, sort of like Ambilight on Philips flat screen TVs. This may involve adding a computer that streams video to your TV or adding a web cam to capture your TV image.
  • Make it turn on and off automatically at certain times. This could be based on day light, time of day, or detecting some one is in the room or close to the system.
  • Make it controlled over the Internet so the world can turn on and off the LEDs in your living room.
  • Connect the LED wall to your mood ring so the LED wall can reflect your mood!

We hope you enjoyed this Instructable. Be sure to learn more about Brilldea and our products by visiting our web site:


ygujarati (author)2014-03-25

time to start avnew project!!

jvan dalen (author)2013-07-16

On what kind of surface do you project the led light?

neveroddoreven99 (author)2011-09-29

I'm not sure if I'm completely on the same page as far as controllers go. My band plays our live show to midi clock and were looking to purchase DMX controller software that would allow the programming of a live show to a strict timeline (the songs) while each song being triggered by a midi clock. Can I control this via DMX? If you point me in the right direction I can do the homework myself, I was just wondering if there is software that your using to program the lights in your video, or if this project might be compatible with DMX.

Thank you for the questions. I can certainly understand how this instructable has confused you regarding the controller. Thus far, we have mostly sold LED Painters or LED Painter II-8. These are the "muscle" of driving an LED system. But, to go with the "muscle" you need the "brains" that tell it what to do.

The LED Painter or LPII-8 do not directly accept DMX. They need a controller device to interpret the DMX or preprogrammed routines and then tell the "muscle" what to do.

So - in addition to LED Painter or LPII-8, you will need to have a controller. We have tinkered with several different designs, but haven't gotten anything solid to sell. Many of our users though have made their own controller using an Arduino or Propeller Platform or other microcontroller. I'd recommend using a Propeller to receive DMX-512A, and then have the Propeller control a chain of LED Painters or LPII-8.

We have created a library for the Arduino that uses the A6281 IC that is used in the LPII-8. But we haven't done any DMX work with Arduino. We see there are several people that have, however we haven't tested their code to say how well it works.

Thank you for the information! Yeah, sadly this is way out of my league. I know how to work with DMX operationally, but not functionally. If you know anyone who would be willing to tackle this for a somewhat reasonable price, we would be very interested.
Actually, one other question. I came across a message board topic created by T.D Sweiter (who on his website says he works with Billdea, which according to this instructable is you) in which he states that he's made a Propeller DMX receiver. Is that simply enough? If I'm using Elation's Compu Show, is it enough that I program a show, send it out to a Propeller/Arduino receiver and run it to you lighting rig from instructables? I keep reading of libraries and code, but everything I actually find seems to be completely hardware based. Would there be additional coding involved?

I am currently working on either an Arduino or PIC based DMX "interpreter" or "controller" that will be able to drive a chain of TLC5940s, or the Brilldia LED Painter, which is based on the same integrated circuits. I'll try to post back here when I have something working, but don't get your hopes up.

A few resources to look at is the Entec Open DMX controller

The Arduino TLC5940 library

and the tutorial from FreakLabs about receiving DMX with an Arduino

I believe one would be able to use the DMX receiving code and the TLC5940 library to control the Brilldia LED Painter, or a chain of TLC5940s.

Good Luck

Brilldea (author)igutekunst2011-11-06

I hope your project goes well! Overall, this is a simple project with the right software/hardware. I've sketched our something similar, but each time, for me at least, it came down to I didn't like a particular piece of hardware or software that I was building the system upon, so I would start down the road of creating my own and eventually I get distracted with other work.

Maybe it is time for me to resurrect my past efforts and get something piece together and working!

At the moment, there isn't a good off the shelf solution to go from straight DMX512-A to the LED Painter or LED Painter II-8. The Prop Blade was the product for this, but it was still too complicated and costly (and some of the components were becoming difficult to source, thus the reason we discontinued it).

Brilldea/me/T.D. Swieter have developed various libraries for the Propeller (and am working on Arduino Libraries) for DMX512-A receiving. We have also developed libraries for speaking with the LED Painter and the LED Painter II-8. It takes a bit of know-how in programming to point the code and arrays to each other and DIY electronics to marry the two together. Our goal was to cover this gap, but time has gotten away from us on other projects.

Ultimately, you are right, it should be as simple as you program your show and your system sends DMX and then there is hardware to receive the DMX and translate it to the LED Painter. If I can find time to focus on the Arduino DMX library (I know there are others out there, but I've not been comfortable with them) then it would be easy to publish one project that easily accomplishes all this.

EAS2013 (author)2011-07-17

Hello, I am new to LED's and electronics. I really want to build a project very similar to your bookshelf design. I watched your video and did some research but I am still slightly confused as to everything I need. If you could provide additional information on the subject, I will be ready for purchase of parts from you. Thank you for your time.

graffix (author)EAS20132011-07-22

I spent quite a bit of time and money dealing with these products and had no success as with other customers.I'd recommend looking else where.

Brilldea (author)graffix2011-07-24

Graffix - I'm sorry that you feel this way. We have provided constant support to our customers via e-mail and have seen many customers succesfully install and operate a system. Through feedback such as yours and others we have made improvements to the products to make the system easier to deploy, but so far the improvements have added cost and we are trying to balance that before we release any new products.

Brilldea (author)EAS20132011-07-24

EAS2013 - thanks for your feedback on our tutorial and your enthusiasm to build a system. This tutorial is a bit outdated as it uses our older products. We have had some new products developed, but thus far we are have only released the LED Painter II-8 on our web site. In addition to the LPII-8 you will need a controller and could use any microcontroller such as an Arduino, Propeller, Pic, etc. You will need knowledge though of electronics and writing software for the microcontroller you chose to hook everything together.

dragonrage4000 (author)2010-07-12

Hi I was wondering what your white column was made out of. I am working with led lights and i want to put them behind a medium like that that can make the lights seem less concentrated and more diffused.

apothus (author)dragonrage40002011-07-06

I have always heard it refered to as corflute. I belive it is used in a lot of signs, especially the triangle shaped ones you find at intersections, it is also used in model aeroplanes

Hi, well I guessed a lot about the material. Finally I found the material but i'm not sure how it's exactly called in English. In German it's called "Stegplatte". Maybe you use a online dictionary: Results see link. I found the material at a German shop. They sell material for architects. Here is the link: I ordered some example of this "translucent-version". It's very transparent. The first ones (450g/m2) are defintely not usable. The second version (1000g/m2) are little better. (looks more white). These should be better. Unfortunately the second order of examples with the white version did not arrive yet. I ordered an example of this. As you can see it's possible to order rather big sheets of this material. Have fun

Brilldea (author)dragonrage40002010-07-12

dragonrage4000 - Honestly, I'm not sure what the material is called. It is like a corregated plastic of sorts. It is flimsy and flexible. I got these items as backings on a couple shelves from IKEA. I've seen this material in shops that make signs. You may want to check there or browse the isles of a home improvement store or hardware store to see if you can find something similar.

cookn (author)2008-12-13

I have successfully connected the arduino and led painter together and got amazing results even the i just have it doing random blinking right now but it is just as good as the prop blade and maybe harder to interface with dmx but it works in the end and im still working on the dmx part of the arduino.

di-multimedia(r) (author)cookn2011-04-29

Hi Cookn, could share how you successfully connect arduino and Led Painter? Have some simple test scketch to share? Im trying to connect with duemilanove but just get random on and off(colors) using the arduino tlc libary and the "BasicUse" sample sketch using tlcconfig.h configured with 3 tlcs.

Thanks in advance.

Brilldea (author)cookn2008-12-13

EXCELLENT!!! I am glad to hear that you have the Arduino and LED Painter working together. Do you have a web page or video of the two working together that you can share? I know there are other Arduino users out there who would like to learn from your experience. Also, do you think you could share your code as a demo or example? I could place it on the Brilldea site.

Jay Gutta (author)2010-09-26

I'm interested in constructing a sign for the outside of my business that's similar to the window displays you have created. My concern at the moment are the measurements and the amount of materials I will need to fill the space I'm working with. What and how much of each item would I need to fill a space 80cm x 140cm using the same spacing you've used for your displays? Also, being that this is going to be an outdoor unit, I also wanted to know if the USB prop plug is used without being connected to any computer or dmx controller? What I mean is, does it store the program I create on a computer and run that program separate? I'm also looking for easiest possible way of putting this unit together without too much constructing/soldering etc. Thank you.

Brilldea (author)Jay Gutta2010-09-26

Jay - thanks for the questions.  We haven't constructed any outdoor displays ourselves, but if you take the proper precautions to seal the enclosure and keep the electronics from getting wet, then you should be fine. 

We recommend that you look at our newest LED drive, the LED Painter II-8 ( as it is a fully assembled and tested product. The LPII-8 is a more robust product and is easier to implement in a new design.

At this time point we are trying to discontinue the Prop Blade in favor of a more robust controller we are designing.  You will have to stay tuned for this.

I'd recommend sketching out your design and sizes and then send an note to the Brilldea sales e-mail found on our web site.  We will try to assist better through that means of communication.  Thank you.

Clint Levinson (author)2010-08-30

I have 80% of the assembly of a 48X3 RGB pane completed but need The Prop Blade Kit. I hope brilldea has some in stock soon.

Brilldea (author)Clint Levinson2010-09-26

Clint - I am sorry for such a slow response! We are trying to discontinue the Prop Blade in favor of a new controller we are working on. Just about any microcontroller platform can be used with the LED Painter such as the Propeller Platform by Gadget Gangster or the Propeller Protoboards from Parallax. If you prefer the Arduino, those will also work as a controller.

faxik (author)2010-08-19

I'm very inspired by your ideas and excited by them! I have a thing that is unclear to me and I'd be happy if you clarify this. Tell me please, did you fed TLC5940 12V and used 12V strips? Or did you fed 3V to the driver and cut strips to make them 3V or so? Thank you!

Brilldea (author)faxik2010-08-19

The LED Painter requires a voltage for the logic which powers the TLC5940 and a voltage for the LEDs. The logic voltage can be 3.3V or 5V and the LED voltage can be 12V, up to 17V I believe. We have a new product that is based on the A6281 IC and is much easier to use. The new product is called LED Painter II-8 (or LPII-8 for short). This product takes a single voltage from 5V to 17V DC. The logic signals to the board for populating the shift registers are 3.3V or 5V. You can check out the product here: Let me know if you have further questions.

rhiro1926 (author)2010-03-23

Does anyone know where I can buy the TLC5940 LED driver ICs?  I've had these on backorder with Mouser since September 2, 2009.  Over half a year later, still no ICs.  I checked Digikey, Allied, one has stock.  All I get is the occasional email from Mouser saying when the new expected ship date is.  Does TI plan to ever make these again?  I've been anxious to try this project out, have Brilldea PCBs on hand, and have been patiently waiting to get these ICs.

Entropy512 (author)rhiro19262010-07-08

Another option (which is definately in stock at Mouser) is the NXP PCA9635. Pros: I2C is a bit easier to write control firmware for than the TLC's custom protocol. Seems pretty easy to source Cons: Doesn't have built in current limiting like the TLCs do Maximum of 5 volts on the LED outputs Surface mount only Most of the cons can be worked around pretty cheaply (Resistors for each channel combined with two ULN2803s per channel) The SMD-only thing is a bit tougher - SparkFun's SSOP28 breakouts are a bit pricey at $4 each.

Brilldea (author)rhiro19262010-03-25

 I just now checked Mouser and it says they have 300+ ICs in stock.  Hopefully yours (and my) order will ship soon!  Keep your fingers crossed.

rhiro1926 (author)Brilldea2010-03-25

Thanks for the reply.  I almost canceled my order but decided to hang on.  I spoke with Mouser today and they told me my ICs are reserved and will ship out tomorrow.  I'm bummed I didn't get these ICs sooner (my project deadline passed months ago and I wound up going with a really lame approach out of desperation).  One small consolation is that Mouser kept upgrading my shipping to faster service for free for subsequent orders.  (Well, at least as long as I had this backorder still active.)

Brilldea (author)rhiro19262010-03-24

 We have had similar trouble sourcing the TLC5940.  At the moment I don't think the shortage is due to phasing out of the IC as TI would have announced that.  Rather over the past two years the stock/inventory levels of manufacturers and distributors has dwindle because IC were not being made as companies were conserving cash.  This is a general trend that I have seen several articles on.  The lack of the TLC5940 may be attributed to this trend.  I too have a backorder at Mouser and eagerly await shipping.  The last date I saw was last week to receive more units.

cabinet (author)2010-07-03

I think it's not proper to post here something. Bez I see the shortage of the TI's PWM LED Driver. I just to introduce our company to whom may be interesting about the LED Driver IC. I think the products will help you to solve problem.

graffix (author)2009-12-06

you have to open the prop blade driver with the propeller tool v1.2.7 to down load on to prop blade

wes321 (author)2008-12-06

So I'm REALLY interested in making this really cool RGB LED system for my dorm room and was wondering before I spend lots and lots of money if these parts will be all I will need. I'm looking to make a single panel of 16 RGB LED Ribbons like what you have in this tutorial and sync it to music via the Prop Plug. Are these the parts needed to accomplish that or do I need more?

2x5 IDC Connectors

100 Feet 9 Conductor Flat Ribbon Cable

12V, 5A Power Supply

Prop Blade

Prop Plug

LED Painter

16 RGB LED Ribbon

Brilldea (author)wes3212008-12-07

Hi Wes321 - You are on the right track for parts. The IDCs you picked may be OK. You need to make sure they are 0.1" spacing and the web site does not say so. The Ribbon Cable you picked says it is 0.05" which is a finer pitch than you need and would not work with 0.1" connectors. Therefore you need to make sure you are buying 0.1" connectors and ribbon cable. The ribbon cable can be used for the connection between the Prop Blade and LED Painter, but you could also solder or make a connector with individual wires too. The Power Supply you picked would work, buy if you are only going to make a panel of 15 Ribbons than you can save some money by getting a power supply with less output. 9 to 12V DC is OK and for a small display with only 16 ribbons I have used a 1300mA "wall wart" that I got from Wal-mart. That supply was cheaper than what you pointed to, but worked well for a small display. Another thing you might want to consider is LED connectors. The LED Painter does not come with LED Connectors. Some people like to use LED Connectors while others solder wires directly to the LED Painter. Let me know if you have more questions.

wes321 (author)Brilldea2008-12-07

How's this power supply?

as for the ribbon cable, compatible IDC's and what do you mean by the LED Connectors?

Brilldea (author)wes3212008-12-07

I missed the power supply link - yes, that looks good for small displays.

wes321 (author)Brilldea2008-12-07

could you send me a link to ribbon, IDC's and LED connectors if you have any on hand it would be greatly appreciated.

graffix (author)wes3212009-10-29

how'd you make out with findn right parts?

Brilldea (author)wes3212008-12-07

The LED Painter comes without headers or connectors for attaching the LEDs. It is only the PCB with 0.1" spaced holes for soldering wires or a connector to. Because our customer's applications vary, we decided to not provide the 1x4 0.1" headers or connectors that takes the LED power and signals from the LED Painter to the RGB LED Ribbon.

wes321 (author)Brilldea2008-12-07

Sorry for the amount of messages I just really wanna buy this equipment before Christmas and Brilldea is going to be closing for the holiday soon.

Is this the connectors i need?

Iis this the other connector?

With this cable

wes321 (author)wes3212008-12-08

I know you said to use .1 Ribbon but it seems these connectors go with .05 ribbon

Brilldea (author)wes3212008-12-08

Wes321 - Yes, now that I think about it I mistyped, thank you for catching that. Correct, you need headers with 0.1" spacing and the way the ribbon cable connectors to the header/connector the ribbon cable is a finer pitch of 0.05". You are totally right here. The LED Painter and Prop Blade comes with the header, it is the receptacle or female portion and ribbon cable that you need. Your last two items in the above post should be fine.

wes321 (author)Brilldea2008-12-08

Alright awesome so this should be the complete shopping list for making a single panel ...

**Female Connectors

**Ribbon Cable

Prop Blade

Prop Plug

LED Painter

RGB LED Ribbon

Power Supply

**I had to change the place to buy the female connectors and Ribbon cable because it wanted a minimum purchase of $50 so if you could make sure thats what I need.

Am I missing anything?

Thanks for the help. I really appreciate it.

PS. Will the Prop Plug give me access via USB to control the lights almost like a DMX controller if I wanted to sync it to music or do I need to buy this?

Brilldea (author)wes3212008-12-09

Wes321 - It looks like you have the majority of the parts specified. The LED Painter and Prop Blade come with communication headers, but no LED headers or connectors. This is what our web site says on the LED Painter page. Your list of parts is great. I assume you have wire around the house to route power from the power supply to the Prop Blade and LED Painter. You can use the ribbon cable you are buying to route power to the RGB LED Ribbon or you can use other wire. Yes you can program the Prop Blade to use the Prop Plug as a serial communication between a PC and the Prop Blade. This is one method to get control data into the Prop Blade. The kicker here though is that the program you chose to send data may or may not want to use a serial com port. For instance, with Vixen Lights you could not use "Enttec DMX" device driver to send data to a Prop Plug. However there are other drivers you could use to send data to the Prop Plug or perhaps the community has created one. the Prop Plug would just show up as a serial port.

wes321 (author)Brilldea2008-12-10

so i decided to suck up the huge cost and bought all of the parts. The only question i have now is to program the lights to music and have control over them do i need the DMX adapter or can i use the prop plug to give me streaming access to it. Almost as if i was gonna play a song it would sync with it. If it does work that way which software is compatible with the prop plug? thanks

Brilldea (author)wes3212008-12-10

If you want to synchronize lights and music and other external events to the LED system you need some way to get the data in. For me system I chose to use DMX because I had the hardware and software already. For your system you can use the Prop Plug. THe Prop PLug will show up as a serial port on your PC. I would download and install Vixen Lights and review what drivers are included. There is probably a driver for outputting data via a serial port. Once that portion is setup the next step is to setup the Prop Blade to read that data using the FullDuplexSerial object instead of the DMX Object. Off the top of my head I don't know which plug-in for Vixen is best since I have not experimented with it to that extent.

wes321 (author)Brilldea2008-12-12

I decided to go with the DMX Control now my question is what cables do I need to plug it in from the USB DMX interface to the Prop Blade and do you have a picture of place that shows me how to hook it up?

Brilldea (author)wes3212008-12-12

OK - good choice. You will need to make a cable that plugs into the XLR connector on the OPEN USB DMX and then into the Prop Blade. You can use Cat5 cable wired to the XLR and to the connector for the Prop Blade. The Prop Blade kit has the pins and mating connectors for the RS-485/DMX interface. You will need to get the 5-pin XLR and Cat5 cable. The details for pin connections are in the datasheet for the Prop Blade, look at the schematic.

wes321 (author)Brilldea2008-12-23

Alright so i constructed everything and powered on for the first time and this is what happened.. First how are you powering both devices of one power supply? I have a 12volt 1.5amp running directly into each and i dont think its right. When i turned the Prop blade on the light turned on but i heard a low hissing noise along with some smoke and smell. HOPEFULLY i didnt burn it out but i coulda. Anywhoo should i regulate the power more or get a lower voltage / amp? and how is the best way to split the power to each. - Also i turned on the LED Painter separately without the Prop Blade and it seemed to turn the RGB LED strip on but at a low intensity. Is that because of bad wiring or because at default without a Prop Blade or any micro controller it is at low intensity.

Brilldea (author)wes3212009-01-05

Sorry for the slow reply, we were on Holiday. Have you learned anything more about the power? If not, please e-mail the Brilldea Support e-mail and I will help you troubleshoot the system over e-mail. E-mail is easier than through the comments or PM.

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