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SEE STEP 12 FOR NEW RESULTS AND AN ETCHING/PROJECT UPDATE!
Recently one of my focuses has been to find a way to make the PCB (Printed Circuit Board) creation process easier. I like being able to design something based on what I want in a circuit and just making it myself on the random weekend. While the toner transfer method has been my go to in the past it’s just not nearly as consistent as I would like it to be. The specific pressure of the iron and timing both make it a hit or miss approach. I’m not a fan of hit or miss I like to know something is going to work every time I try to do it. This sentiment got me exploring new ideas for PCB creation which is the topic of this project.
About a year and a half ago I found this webpage on modifying an Epson inkjet printer into a printer capable of printing on thicker materials such as copper clad board used by hobbyists such as myself to create custom circuit boards. As you'll notice that webpage is centered around an Epson C84 printer, but Epson printers are all somewhat similar so I decided to try this method on the C86 I had lying around the house.
Since I've been working on my own website (www.ryanpourcillie.com) I've documented everything about the project and thought it would be good to put it multiple places so hopefully numerous people can see it and try something new for themselves. I really tried to go into detail on everything I did in this process and the problems I had to troubleshoot because from looking around online there have been a few people who have done these modifications before, but no one really seems to have given a very good in-depth step by step build guide. Hopefully this Instructable can serve as just that.
So all that being said let's start with the tools and materials you'll need for this project:
Materials:
- Obviously you'll need some form of an Epson inkjet printer probably of the C80 family as those are the ones I have seen modifications to in the past.
- A sheet of aluminum or steel or some metal sheet (about 9 inches by 14.5 inches roughly)
- Approximately 4 feet of 1/4 inch bent (90 degree corner piece) aluminum rail
- Some type of brackets and screws to secure them with (I used 3, you'll see an image of them later on)
- Some 4 - 40 screws (I used 1/2 inch long ones)
- Nuts for said screws (I used about 16)
- A small piece of scrap plywood and some other random scraps of 2x4 or something of the sort
- Epoxy and/or hot glue
- The drivers for whichever printer and operating system you decide to use
- An ink kit from Inksupply.com (more details on this later)
Tools:
- A Dremel tool with grinding wheels to cut through metal
- Various screwdrivers
- Pliers or a socket wrench that fits the nuts or screws you'll be using
- A drill of some sort to attach the brackets
- A hot glue gun
- A heat gun
Once you've gathered all of those things you're ready to begin.
Recently one of my focuses has been to find a way to make the PCB (Printed Circuit Board) creation process easier. I like being able to design something based on what I want in a circuit and just making it myself on the random weekend. While the toner transfer method has been my go to in the past it’s just not nearly as consistent as I would like it to be. The specific pressure of the iron and timing both make it a hit or miss approach. I’m not a fan of hit or miss I like to know something is going to work every time I try to do it. This sentiment got me exploring new ideas for PCB creation which is the topic of this project.
About a year and a half ago I found this webpage on modifying an Epson inkjet printer into a printer capable of printing on thicker materials such as copper clad board used by hobbyists such as myself to create custom circuit boards. As you'll notice that webpage is centered around an Epson C84 printer, but Epson printers are all somewhat similar so I decided to try this method on the C86 I had lying around the house.
Since I've been working on my own website (www.ryanpourcillie.com) I've documented everything about the project and thought it would be good to put it multiple places so hopefully numerous people can see it and try something new for themselves. I really tried to go into detail on everything I did in this process and the problems I had to troubleshoot because from looking around online there have been a few people who have done these modifications before, but no one really seems to have given a very good in-depth step by step build guide. Hopefully this Instructable can serve as just that.
So all that being said let's start with the tools and materials you'll need for this project:
Materials:
- Obviously you'll need some form of an Epson inkjet printer probably of the C80 family as those are the ones I have seen modifications to in the past.
- A sheet of aluminum or steel or some metal sheet (about 9 inches by 14.5 inches roughly)
- Approximately 4 feet of 1/4 inch bent (90 degree corner piece) aluminum rail
- Some type of brackets and screws to secure them with (I used 3, you'll see an image of them later on)
- Some 4 - 40 screws (I used 1/2 inch long ones)
- Nuts for said screws (I used about 16)
- A small piece of scrap plywood and some other random scraps of 2x4 or something of the sort
- Epoxy and/or hot glue
- The drivers for whichever printer and operating system you decide to use
- An ink kit from Inksupply.com (more details on this later)
Tools:
- A Dremel tool with grinding wheels to cut through metal
- Various screwdrivers
- Pliers or a socket wrench that fits the nuts or screws you'll be using
- A drill of some sort to attach the brackets
- A hot glue gun
- A heat gun
Once you've gathered all of those things you're ready to begin.
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Signing UpStep 1Panel Removal and Breakdown
Step one is a pretty easy one and is somewhat self explanatory. The first thing I did was remove the paper feeder sticking out of the back of the printer and toss that aside. Once that's gone you can just use the tabs in various areas of the printer to pop off the front tray, the side panels, and ultimately the main printer casing. I chose to keep the main casing so that I have something to cover the printer with later for storage purposes.
Once you get all that done you'll end up with the internals of the printer ready for modification.
Once you get all that done you'll end up with the internals of the printer ready for modification.
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I've just been designing things in all black and then printing them using a black and white option in the printer settings and that has been working fine.
Additionally the program I use the most with this printer is EAGLE and it has an option on the print screen to only print in black which thus far has worked fine for me.
The longer answer is it would depend on the construction of the printer and how easily you could "lift" it. Factor into that the different printhead system and whatever other mechanisms a laser printer might have and it could complicate the build. I don't really have access to a "junk" laser printer so I haven't been able to test this idea out. I'd need to take it apart and look at the specific printer to decide how to go about modifying it.
If you do decide to try it and are successful or find some helpful things out make sure to let me know as I would like to try that in the future.
the idea i had was having the printer rollers actually moving the entire printer along rack and pinion type rails on each side of the build surface, and i wasnt sure if the steppers would be powerful enough, got some heartier steppers around though, but different current ratings to most printer steppers so i'd have to make a breakout board to drive them if i had to use them for it. (which would be fairly straight-forward, i got a cnc lathe/mill and a UV LED PCB developing glass table)
anyway, what my question really is, would you know of how to mess with the printer driver program and/or circuitry to use it as a plotter as well, so it could laser reduce graphene oxide in continuous lines while changing from one axis to another instead of rastering? rastering would be fine for the deposition of the EL polymer but i think the graphene would have a more continuous molecular formation if it was reduced as a continuous trace.
apologies for lack of caps and the grammar, i are retard.
i would very much appreciate a reply if you have any information i might find useful to achieve this objective.
Is is just me, or does the final etched product seem rough around the edges for the copper pads and traces, doesn't look very clean in the pictures?
If this is the case, would a better quality printer be the way to a better etch, or is it simply the "DIY"ness of it all that produces the 'rough' results?
As I got everything fixed and calibrated right though the boards got better. I have pictures of the better board I made in there a few places, but now that I know exactly how long to preheat the boards for and how to set the ink better and have a better etching tank the boards are coming out smooth.
I haven't had a chance to post anything new recently because it's been pretty cold outside and I haven't been able to etch boards yet. The new etching tank is nice, but the bubbling ferric chloride isn't something I like to use inside very much. I'm working on designing a few of my own boards currently and when I get a chance to etch them I plan on posting updated photos.
As for the thinnest etched spaces on the board I have a few areas that are even thinner and I would estimate at about .1 to .2 mm wide roughly. I'd venture to say probably more around the .15mm area.
I know there are a lot of others out there using this setup too and maybe some of them are getting different results, but that's what I can tell you from my experience so far. I'm working on my own board design for another project currently so once I can that board all designed and ready to print I may be able to give you more measurements straight from Eagle.
I would suggest that you put MISPRO yellow in all four cartridges. It can be very difficult to get an inkjet printer to print from only one ink shade. More printheads printing may mean more dots filled in, too.
As for the curing, from all reports the temperature and hold time are very important. Volkan, the gentleman who first discovered this process of printing and heat curing pigmented ink, would heat it to the point where the copper just turns purple and hold it there. Others have experimented and found that holding it at 230C/446F for about 3 minutes does the trick, but that it is a very narrow window of temperature.
I just ordered a "Mini SMD Preheater" 21-10135 from MCM that is a hot air rework station, set the board on top of it and it heats between 100C and 350C, temperature controlled. My intention is to use it for pigment ink cure and SMD reflow soldering. I got it on sale earlier today for $40. A toaster oven with a better thermostat should work, too.
To the gentleman asking about using an HP inkjet printer, as you mentioned the MISPRO pigmented inks probably won't work since just about every desktop HP inkjet printer is a bubblejet and uses dye colors. However, there is the hybrid toner method - print using any ink, as long as it doesn't run, and dust laser toner across the ink. The ink stays tacky for quite a long time on a nonporous surface. Then heat until the toner turns shiny.
You are correct that temperature window is very narrow. I bought that heat gun and it was effective, but so touchy to not overheat the board and to try and keep everything uniformly heated. You'll have to update me on that SMD Preheater. I've been thinking of moving to mostly or all SMD parts too, but just haven't quite committed yet. I like the idea of a dual function tool, hopefully that product works out for you.
Glad to hear more input and advice though for sure. I know you guys have quite a thread going and have more ideas and insight than I could probably imagine right now.
But the quality is not yet there...
Maybe you should try mild solvent inks.
I work with large format printers, that also use Epson Printheads.
Most of them use modified heads. The printhead itself withstands pretty harsch organic solvents, it's the plastic part on top, that needs to be of a different material. (compared to a standard waterbased printhead)
There are certain mild solvent inks, that work with unmodified Epson heads.
Used in "Freejet" nontextile printers for example.
And there are also inks with a completely different chemistry like these:
http://www.sepiax.com/anwendungen-en
What would work pretty sure, are the Roland UV-inks used for example in the LEF-12. But the price tag of those machines might be a bit prohibitive.
But i could make some experiments with different inks.
I have access to machines with many different inks. Many of them flatbed machines. Maybe i make some test boards.
So does this mean that an inkjet printer could directly print etchant onto a copper board ?
Then just a short wait and a quick rinse . . ? Now that would save some acid !
Hold on . . . wouldn't this cause massive unemployment in the acid industry ?
This would etch away the printheads.
I'm just supposing a better ink for masking.
Now I see. But hold the thought. We progress by thinking outside the box. Is there, or could there be a way ? All plastic printheads ? All metal parts plastic coated ? A chemical ink that would react with something else to form an acid only where required ?
As there is already metallic silver paint used for circuit board repair, can a way be found to directly print metal (by some means, in some form) straight onto blank circuit board ?
Possibly by adapting some kind of inkjet printer (or plotter), using fine enough metal particles ?
Perhaps an ink consisting of metal particles in a flux, then set by briefly heating to melting point with a blast of hot air ?
If anyone can find a way, it should be extremely environmentally friendly, and would make all other prototyping systems obsolete overnight.
And this could be the website where it is first seen . . .
(And OK, if it's already been invented, well I always say, great minds think alike . . . ;-)
Off the shelf laminator, dextrin paper, and heat gun.
Just two runs through the laminator while shooting the board with a heat gun does the trick admirably. I've tried all the papers and TBH, photo paper, magazine paper, and even the other professional papers wilt in comparison to dextrin paper (e.g. Pulsar). I went through a 100 pack of the "blue" stuff before trying the slightly more expensive dextrin paper, and I'm kicking myself for not trying it sooner.
isn't it easier to just make yourself a UV exposure box and buy boards coated with resist?
I built one years ago then I switched to a commercial (cheap) model.
I'm the happiest champ.
I'm now etching double-sided smd-only boards and the edges are perfect.
I don't etch in FeCl anymore, now I use a 2 to 1 solution of HCl (10M) and H2O2 (3%).
it has a lot of advantages, among which no stains... but it may burn stuff... ehm...
anyway... never thought I'd be as happy with my etching, and using a (again, cheap) etching tank with air pump and heater, I etch a board in about 2 minutes.
that makes the edges very sharp.
I have more trouble drilling 0.6mm holes and center them correctly than to produce the board :)
anyway keep up the experimentation, I would love to see cheap commercial solutions.
to me laser printing acetate, UV exposure, development, etching is a fulfilling experience every time and I'll keep doing it ;)
http://www.bungard.de/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=25&Itemid=76&lang=english
I tried some very expensive ones but I had really lousy results.
I expose with a UV exposure box like this one, just an older model
http://nl.farnell.com/cif/bc10/uv-exposure-unit-cip-1840/dp/1332734
then I etch in Copper Chloride in Aqueous Hydrochloric Acid Solution
http://www.instructables.com/id/Stop-using-Ferric-Chloride-etchant!--A-better-etc/
I use a cheap bubble etching tank with heater at 24ºC and if I preheat for a couple of minutes, my board is perfect after 2-3 minutes.
most of my thin traces are 0.4064 mm (0.016") and there's no visible damage to the trace edges even with the magnifier I use to solder caps in 0805 package.
I've been using this technique for the past 2 years and there's no way I'm steering away from it. :)
I'm placing a laser printed acetate between the UV light and the copper board.
the black area is the actual trace, everything transparent will not be printed on the copper.
the developer I'm using appears like a salt.
can't remember what it is though, I always used the same.
always use freshly made Sodium Persulfate.
it can still be good for a couple of days, but you'll notice the traces getting less sharp after the second day.
you may think it's the etching solution but it ain't.
it's the damn developer :)