Introduction: Cosmic Light With LEDs Embedded in Resin

Picture of Cosmic Light With LEDs Embedded in Resin

I wanted to make a light out of resin that used LEDs but no soldering (I know a lot of people don't solder, and there are probably a few like me that can do it but don't really like to do it.) It's powered by a couple of coin batteries so it's easy to work on without any risk of shock. And the finished product is a glossy, atmospheric light with a soft glow.

All of the materials for this project can probably be found between a craft store, a home improvement store and a Radio Shack, but you can round a lot of it up for cheaper online. I got most of my supplies on ebay.

Personally, I made this because:

My bedroom has a light switch by the door.
My bed is not very close to that switch.
I have a lot of sharp metal sculptures in my bedroom, as well as a bed with unforgiving wooden corners.
I wanted something more special than an ordinary night light that could be used for the time between turning off the wall switch and making it safely into bed.
And it looks great between my Martian lunch box and little plastic dudes landing on the moon.....

*Apologies in advance for what appears to be incompetent photography - resin is very shiny and my camera lacks appreciation for reflective materials. It's also not that hot in the dark.

Step 1: Materials List

a rectangular resin mold
This used a 3 by 6 inch mold (manufactured by Castin' Craft) but it's definitely not a requirement. If you choose to use a different mold you'll need to adjust the project accordingly.

6 to 8 ounces of resin (and appropriate catalyst, if necessary)
I used a polyester resin but a 2 part epoxy resin would probably be safer. Any clear resin should work.

black resin dye; blue, yellow and pearl optional
Manufactured by Castin' Craft, available all over the internet.
To get the blue and yellow colors to 'pop' in front of the back you'll need to add some pearl (or a tiny bit of white instead of pearl.) If you don't add the pearl/white the color will be most obvious when it's lit but not so obvious when it's turned off.

If you're a fan of cosmic debris like I am. I used some silver 'holographic' glitter and some silver star shaped glitter.

2 part clear quick-setting epoxy

You'll only need a little, and you may not need any at all.

LED lights (5mm white superflux are used here, but almost any should do the job)
This pattern requires 10, you can use as many as you want.
A good photo/diagram of what I used is available here:

This is wired up with 24 gauge silver plated beading wire. The fixture is low-voltage and the wires are all encased in the resin so insulation isn't necessary. Light weight wire is definitely the way to go for this project.

batteries and an appropriate holder
2 CR2032 batteries and 534-1026 holder

1 resistor
56 ohm 1/4 W based on this calculator
If you use a different number of LEDs or different batteries you'll probably want to double check what resistor to use.

1 on/off switch
purchased at a home improvement store, just a basic on/off.

a set of electrical 'alligator clips' for testing your leds/connections/etc.

waxed paper
5 small, strong clips
masking tape
pliers (2 pairs is nice, but not necessary)
a screwdriver (probably Phillips, but check your switch to be sure)
assorted standard household items

Step 2: Make a Pattern

Picture of Make a Pattern

You'll need a pattern. The big dipper would be the first choice of most people, so I didn't choose it. The little dipper would be second, so, again, I didn't choose it. I went with Leo because (1) it's the best one (2) it fit nicely in the size mold I had chosen.

Use an image search to find a star chart that includes your choice of constellations (or use my pattern.) You could, obviously, just make one up as well. Import that image into Illustrator or some other draw program. For this size mold you need to adjust it to fit within a 2.5 inch by 5.5 inch space. You'll need a bit of margin around the outside edges. Draw a little circle for each star you want to include. Draw about a 1" circle for the battery pack and another .75 inch or so circle for the switch. You'll place these in a few minutes.

You need to draw one line on one side of the stars for the positive wire, and a line on the other side for the negative. These lines can NEVER touch. If you're experienced in electronics you can probably skip over the next paragraph, if not read on.

The positive line will need to touch the positive side of each LED, will need the resistor added to it, will need the switch added to it, and will need to end on the positive terminal of the battery holder. The negative will need to touch the negative side of every LED, then go directly to the negative terminal of the battery holder. This information is important when placing the switch and batteries.

Adjust the constellation in the 2.5 by 5.5 inch space until the end of the wires can connect to the resistor, switch and battery pack without touching each other. This might take some crafty planning and adjusting. I've included a wiring diagram of mine for reference. Be sure to orient the battery holder so that you can easily change the batteries (if the open side of the holder is next to the wall you'll have to do a lot of prying to change your batteries.)

Draw a 3 by 6 inch rectangle around all of it, group it and flip it. It needs to be reversed because you build the light from the front to the back, so you're looking at the back of it while you're working. I printed mine twice on the sheet so I had one to place beneath my mold and one for clear reference, taking notes on, etc.

Print it.

Step 3: First Layer

Picture of First Layer

This probably goes without saying but:
Resin is toxic, dangerous and can be damaging to many surfaces. Keep it well ventilated, away from kids and pets and on a well protected surface. Epoxy is much the same - it can be dangerous and it's very permanent on may surfaces. All of the products included in this project come with safety labels and it's important to read them. One thing I've done is make a list of the chemicals I work with so that if I ever do have a health problem it'll be easier for the medical staff involved to fix it. That said, on to the resin casting.....

You start working from the front of the light - what is the bottom/first layer now will be the front when it's completed.

Mix up about 1/2 ounce of clear resin (according to your manufacturer's guidelines). You can add some glitter or other cosmic debris of your choice to this if you'd like. Catalyze it and pour it into the mold. Tip the mold around to make sure resin covers all of the bottom of the mold, and it's good to let it get up onto the sides a bit.

Let it harden completely.

If you've decided to add a layer of blue/green/yellow/pearly colored haze this is the time to do it. Mix up another 1/3 to 1/2 ounce of clear resin, and again add glitter if you'd like. Pour it into the mold and make sure it covers the front. Add a drop of each color of dye into it then swirl it around with a toothpick. Keep adding dye and swirling it until you like it, then leave it. Seriously. Don't touch it any more until it's completely hardened. If you start working on this and really mess it up just pour it out into something other container to harden up. The reason you do this now instead of with the first layer is that the toothpick can leave marks on the mold that will show on the front of you light. These are permanent to the mold, and no one wants to hurt their mold.

The LEDs behind dye diffuse and glow, while the LEDS without dye in front of them appear as more of a clear point of light. Your choice is all about the aesthetics.

Step 4: Electrical Set-Up

Picture of Electrical Set-Up

Now you need to do a little electrical work.

If you've never used them (and I hadn't before I made this) alligator clips are just an easy way to test out your LEDs. You'll need a pair, and some wire to attach to the clips (unless you find some with wire already attached.) I bought the insulated wire that was next to the alligator clips, it's 14 gauge. Cut 2 reasonable chunks of wire - around 6 inches - and strip a half inch or so from each end. Attach one end of each wire to a clip.

Put the batteries in the battery holder. Attach a clip to each terminal. Grab an LED and touch a wire to each side of it. This will help you figure out positive from negative. When it lights up you've connected the positive battery terminal to the positive side of the LED, and vice versa. On mine the negative side was notched at the corner. Check all of the LEDs you're using, because you would be really bummed to put out all of the work to make this and then have one not work. Be sure sure sure you know positive from negative.

Step 5: Attach the LEDs

Picture of Attach the LEDs

You've come to a bit of a fork in the road, so to speak. At least your first time around do it this way:

Set the mold on top of the pattern. Be sure you know which way to orient the positive and negative sides of the LEDs. Think about how you'll handle curves. I've included a sample diagram for a 90 degree turn.

At this point you are effectively gluing a round LED to a flat surface with the glue equivalent of honey. You'll need some time and patience.

Mix up a bit of the clear 2-part epoxy. Put a drop where there's supposed to be an LED. Place the LED face down. It'll probably tip to the side. Use a toothpick or similar implement to set it back upright. You'll have to do this about 3 million times before all the LEDs are set. There's a good chance there's a better way to do this, and if you come up with it, post it. It's very important that when it's all set up and dried the backs of the LEDs are parallel to the bottom of the mold. Having the back completely exposed is what will allow you to wire it. You'll want a little 'cocoon' of clear epoxy around each bulb, this is what sends the light to the front of the fixture.

Your other choice on how to do this step is to pour another layer of clear resin (around 1/2 an ounce) and set the LEDs in that. This may result in more light coming from the LEDs, but it's also more difficult than gluing each individually.

Step 6: Seal the LEDs in Place

Picture of Seal the LEDs in Place

Once the LEDs are set, mix another 1/2 ounce or so of resin, but this time dye it black. Very black. Then pour it in carefully, as shown in the photo. You may need to do this more than once, but it is very, very important that the black resin not cover over the backs of the LEDs. The more opaque it is the better your results will look. This layer of black resin is what will keep the wires, switches and batteries hidden from the front. You can fill it up to where it's about even with the back of the plastic part of the LEDs.

Again, let this harden like you mean it. You may have been able to get the rest of this done in one day, but now it's time to leave it overnight. Dye tends to slow the catalyzing of resin so don't do anything with it until it 'clicks' when you tap on it.

Step 7: Build Up the Sides of the Box

Picture of Build Up the Sides of the Box

Cut 2 strips of cardboard that are about 6.5 to 7 inches long and 1.5 inches wide. Tape them together with masking tape. Then wrap the whole thing in waxed paper and tape it, making sure one side is just smooth waxed paper with no tape or other texture.

Using the small clips, attach this strip of cardboard to one of the long sides of the mold, as shown. Three clips along the bottom, one on each side. Use the lip of the mold to make a seal between the cardboard and mold. Trust me, resin is very viscous and it'll hold. You'll set the mold on this edge (on top of something so that the side of the mold is parallel to the ground). I set mine on the box of waxed paper. I also ran a strip of masking tape from the now top of the mold to the table to prevent it from accidentally falling over.

Be sure you do this over some scrap/newspaper because it is possible to drip a bit. Mix up 1/2 an ounce of dyed black resin (add glitter if you'd like, it'll fall to the bottom and show in front of the black). You'll pour this over the cardboard to fill in the side of the mold. It'll be about 1/4 of an inch of thickness for this wall. Leave the whole thing set up this way until the resin hardens up. Then unclip it, carefully peel back the cardboard strip and repeat. I used 1/2 ounce for each of the long sides and 1/4 ounce for the short sides.

Again, leave it overnight to get solid because you'll abuse it tomorrow.

Step 8: Wiring

Picture of Wiring

This is my first wiring project (with the exception of installing light fixtures in houses). I'm not sure if this is all technically correct, but it works.

Cut a piece of 24 gauge wire that's about 3 feet long. Fold it in half. Hook the 'folded in half point' over the last prong of the LED at the furthest end from the batteries on the positive side. While being as gentle as possible, wind the wire in figure 8's between all of the prongs on that row of LEDs (only the positives). When you get to the end go back with the pliers and bend the prongs down onto the wire. The idea here is to get it all pushed as tightly together as possible.

Repeat this on the negative side.

There's an excellent chance you'll pop an LED out. If you do, push it back into place and finish the wiring. Mix up some more 2-part clear epoxy and use that to glue it back down. Make sure the glue seals it all the way around, otherwise black resin can seep in front of it and hide it.

At the end of the positive line cut the wires off 1 or 2 inches from the last LED. Twist those wires together with one wire of the resistor. If you've got enough wire left from what you just cut off twist it to the other side of the resistor. From here through to the battery be sure you allow enough wire to place the switch and battery exactly where you want them. Connect those wires to one side of the switch (the 'lead' side, if the package gives you a 'lead' and 'load' diagram.) Cut off any excess. Attach the trimmings (or new wire, if necessary) to the other side of the switch and then to the positive terminal of the battery holder. Twist it around the positive side a bunch of times, making sure there's lots of contact. Trim any excess wire. Any of this wire can be super glued in place to tack it while you're working. This may help keep the switch or batteries where you want them until the final cast.

Connect the negative LED line to the negative side of the battery pack. Again wrap the wire around the negative terminal a bunch, then trim the extra.

Carefully flip the switch to turn it on. Make sure the LEDs all light up. If they don't you can probably make them by adjusting wires and checking connections. Once you have it all just right mix up more of that 2-part epoxy and put a dollop of it on every LED. This will set the wires in place and protect the connections. Keep the light on while this sets up so that you can make any adjustments (sometimes epoxy will slide between the wires enough to take out a light, but you can get turn it back on by pushing on it with pliers or a toothpick). Keep making adjustments until everything is working and the epoxy sets up. Make sure it's really, really dry before the next step.

Step 9: Last Layer of Resin

Picture of Last Layer of Resin

Double check the placement of the switch and batteries. Mix up at least 1/2 an ounce of dyed black resin. Pour it into the mold to cover the LEDs and fill in under the switch and batteries. It may well take more than 1/2 an ounce. Just be sure you don't pour so much in that you disable the switch or make it impossible to remove the batteries. Once you're happy with the amount of resin leave it to set up.

Step 10: Removing

Carefully pull at the sides of the mold to release the cast piece from the mold. You'll be able to see from the outside where it's been pulled loose. Keep flexing the mold until your light pops out of it. Doing this gently will help prevent damaging it. Even when resin seems hard it's still hardening up. It'll keep hardening for days after it's finished (sometimes longer.)

Step 11: Turn It on and Admire

Picture of Turn It on and Admire

Flick on the switch and enjoy your new light.

You may need to lightly sand down the edges of the resin along the walls (where the top of the mold was). Otherwise it should be completely done.

If you'd like to keep the back covered up you could cut a piece of felt or something similar, cut a hole for the switch and glue the felt along the top edge. Velcro could also work. This would enclose the back, but isn't too important if it'll be close to a wall (like mine is.)

There are an infinite number of appearance and size variations, but the procedure would remain the same.

The method for building up the sides of the mold is one I've been working on for a while. It opens up a wide range of possibilities with resin while avoiding making a 2-part mold (with one part being used to keep the center of your shape open.) It could be valuable on large pieces simply to keep them lighter and use less material.

One other idea I've come up with since posting this is to add a 'glow in the dark' powder in with the cosmic debris. This would allow it to give off a soft glow all the time, even when it's turned off. I haven't tried it, but maybe something like this:

That would also be an appealing option if you wanted to try the resin casting without all the electrical.


Border Terrier (author)2013-09-28

Your instructable is just what I've been trying to work out for myself - thanks for the solution! I use a lot of inkjet printer OHP acetates for effects - I wonder if you can just pin the LEDS in place using a very lightly printed diagram of your constellation and set the whole thing onto a thin layer of clear resin which comes halfway up the LEDs - not far enough to touch the acetate but enough to set the LEDS in place - then pull off the acetate when set. I imagine if you tried to set the acetate itself in the resin you would get bubbles, but they might not be a problem in this project?

Alpha_geek (author)2012-07-12

Just a thought ... how about using some cardboard to hold the led's in place? I'm thinking that the process would go something like: First catch your piece of card and mark 'front' on one side. Next, lay your constellation template on the front side and poke the led wires through both the template and the card (this should hold the led's in place). Once that's done you'll need to cut holes in the card so that you can get the resin in place and finally figure out a way of supporting the template in place, above the resin, remembering that the 'front' side faces towards the 'front' of the finished piece, but that shouldn't be rocket science ... geddit, constellation/rocket science ... ;-)

Nicolas Jara (author)2010-01-25

Es bueno!!!!

rubystarburst (author)2009-11-17

hai! Awesome project! How did you get what appear to be holes in the "cosmos"? From reading, it sounds like you used toothpicks and then let the resin hardent, but how would you get the toothpicks out to leave just the hole. I'm really interested in recreating this! It's really cool!

andre rezende (author)2009-04-12

Hi, very nice. I,d like to show my likely experiences if you want to.

dummy1977 (author)2008-06-15

This is very beautiful, thank you for sharing your efforts.. I'd love to try my own variation of this. Right now I'm too hungry to think about being creative as I just got done reading through your 7-layer sammich recipe. (The video was a nice touch... I would've been otherwise too afraid to try my own dough) Keep it up! You have some very creative and unique Instructables, and I'd look forward to seeing more in the future.

Thanks so much!

iamthemargerineman (author)2008-12-13

i love this so so so much. uhm... i'm thinking of using this an idea and making a sign for my classroom. "O' Keefe Orphanage" don't ask... haha. but yeah, could I do this with 10 mm LEDs? they only have one prong... and i don't know ANYTHING about LEDs. so yeah. will there be much a difference? in voltage and stuff? okay. i don't know what i'm talking about so yeah, please enlighten me.

10mm LEDs would work, but you would end up with a much thicker block of resin to hold them. These are probably about 4mm thick with their leads folded over. Other than that it would be fine - to figure out your voltage/resistor needs I recommend the LED resistor calculator (google it). Good luck!

zjharva (author)2008-06-07

Your project was in the most recent make magazine!

onlyonebowman (author)zjharva2008-06-15

I saw that too

Handsome-Ryan (author)2008-05-28

Awesome instructable. I hope to complete a resin casting project similar to this in the near future and this guide will really help me. 5/5 stars and favorited.

jimthree (author)2008-03-31

great work. I know you didn't want to get the soldering iron out for this one, but this project is begging for a bit of microcontroler action to make the LEDs shimmer and fade a little bit. It's given me lots of ideas.

LevLiveDotCom (author)jimthree2008-05-16

That's a really good idea. Although, technically, the shimmer and twinkling of stars that we see is a result of the sun light becoming distorted as it goes through our atmosphere. In space, star light is much more constant than on Earth, so without the shimmering it's actually more realistic, one could argue.

zeroemission (author)2008-03-14

i was thinking about this sort of thing for lighting inside a bike frame, but never considered mixing items in with the lights for more dimensionality. looks cool, i might use this tech down the road. resin? so THAT'S the material to look for, that i did not know. i was thinking polyurethane or acrylic. i bet the effect would look cool with glitter to difuse the light as well as reflect it too.

mada (author)2007-12-22

very cool! Added to my favorites - have to try this when other projects are out of the way. Really quite impressive, good work, thank you for sharing.

technoplastique (author)mada2007-12-22

Thanks so much! Now that it's the holidays and I have more time I'll be sharing a lot more projects, too!

nimitz (author)2007-07-23

Wonderful idea and I'm itching to try something similar at home!

Something I thought of while reading this is that you could do something similar for outside patio "stones" or accent bricks using smaller pieces of plastic embedded in the LED layer and painted with this stuff:

Which glows for 12 hours after being charged up by UV light/sunlight. Perhaps paint the outside and bottom of small clear plastic rods so that the sunlight is transmitted through the plastic to the paint and back out again when it glows. Use the rods in place of the LEDs.

I also thought about using a layer of the resin mixed with the Europium powder but I'm not sure how well it'll work in that condition.

(Also there are other colors besides blue and green but you have to Google for those as they are sold other places.)

technoplastique (author)nimitz2007-10-16

In Epcot they have a group of cement sidewalk sections with patterned fiberoptics embedded in them that sort of mimic fireworks. The patio stone idea reminded me of that. I think that could be completely beautiful, and super functional if you put them somewhere that people frequently walk in the dark. I've been thinking I should pick up some kind of glow in the dark powder, and that one looks pretty powerful. Thanks for the link! (I have a bunch of colors of dyes for resin, but the blue and green colors seemed like the best choice for this. Definitely use whatever colors look good to you!)

nimitz (author)technoplastique2007-10-18

United Nuclear only has a few colors but this place, while a bit more expensive it looks, has several different choices:

I'm seriously considering painting some glowing "circuit traces" on my motorcycle when I re-paint her this winter.

technoplastique (author)nimitz2007-11-06

They have some spectacular colors. This glowing thing has really gotten into my head - if I remember clearly I actually had a dream about a glowing project last night. I can't wait to get going on using some... Thanks for the link!

akpfeiffer (author)2007-07-20

Very cool idea! I have started collecting materials so I can give it a go. But i dont understand the resistor. How did you come up with 56??? do the 2 batteries count as 6V or 3V??? i think you can put a link of your inputs on that calculator website, that might help me make sense of it... thanks

(Sorry I missed this comment before!) I'm assuming the 2 batteries count as 6V because 3V wouldn't be enough to power the LEDs that I used. I also assume this because I have an old camera that uses obsolete batteries, but I can make it work with two small, half power batteries. I used the following entries (in the parallel calculator) 6V source voltage 3.8 forward voltage 40ma diode forward current 10 in array That gave me the resistor number I used. Those are the numbers that the LED supplier I used gave me, so I can only assume that they're right. The light still works (first set of batteries) so I must have at least done a decent job ;-). I hope this helps - let me know if you have any more questions!

hay_jumper (author)2007-08-26

This project is 8 shades of awesome. REALLY nice work. (HJ stands up, slowly begins applauding)

Aww, thanks!

Zujus (author)2007-08-24


mollypierucci (author)2007-07-27


rocketbat (author)2007-07-01

ooooo! Fantastic! thanks for this! now just to choose the constelation.... hmmm... orion, cassiopia, pegasus, andreomeda, a rotating ursa major and ursa minor, leo, bootes, hercules, cygnus, aquila, taurus (incliding pliades)AARRRRRRRRRRRG! cant decide! i must do them all and put them on my roof!

SacTownSue (author)rocketbat2007-07-14

When I first looked at the picture taken in the dark it was barely interesting. But the picture taken in visible light w/ and w/o the LED's on are BEAUTIFUL! Absolutely gorgeous!!!
rocketbat, if you are good with a microcontroller you could have them all in the same case. I'm only a beginner at this stuff but, I think someone could modify Adafruit's miniPOV3 to do it for you. Have it auto change constellation every minute or so. And maybe even program a switch to move from one to the other instead of having to plug it into the computer to switch constellations. Maybe someone reading this can write an instructable or adafruit can do it for us.

rocketbat (author)SacTownSue2007-07-15

thats a fantastic idea! il do that :~D

manatwo34 (author)2007-07-11

One question - how important is adding the walls? I only ask because I'm planning on doing this but some of the resin molds I'm thinking about trying have odd shapes (seahorse for instance). Thanks for the sweet project!

I'm glad you like it! The walls are there primarily to conceal the batteries/switch/etc, so really aren't necessary. If you're planning to use small molds you should look at honus' Green Lantern Ring for a lower profile way to add a battery (although it doesn't use a switch). Good luck!

leef_me (author)2007-07-03

Suggest you emphasize that you are working from front to back, at least I missed it the first time. Do you need mold release? It wasn't in the materials list. Emphasize this should be done away from 'meddlers' such as pets. I mix epoxy on a stiff piece of cardboard or cardstock using a disposable craft stick. Epoxy takes time to harden so I leave the mixed but unused portion on the cardboard with the stick in it. I can test the hardness based on the unused portion.

technoplastique (author)leef_me2007-07-04

I missed this one - I didn't use a mold release because this piece was pretty big (resins shrink as they harden and that's enough to release them from most molds) and this mold is made of polyethylene. Greasy/waxy feeling plastics don't require mold release, but a silicone or similar mold would be better off with a release.

Honus (author)technoplastique2007-07-06

Molding polyester resin in a silicone mold doesn't require a mold release. Silicone molds rarely ever require a mold release- unless you're trying to mold silicone in your silicone mold! :P This is a great project- it would make really cool little night lights for my kids. My wife got me a telescope for my birthday last year so I can imagine looking at the stars through it with my boys and then letting them help re create their own cosmic lights that look like what they saw in the sky!

technoplastique (author)Honus2007-07-06

No, silicone doesn't need a mold release, but especially with the polyester resin the surface tends to turn out a lot nicer if you use one anyway. And it helps extend the life of the mold. Warming up the mold before you cast in it (to between 100 and 115 degrees Fahrenheit) will also help the surface turn out nicer. It would be such a neat project to work on this with your kids! A telescope is on my list of 'someday I'd like to own one' toys (since it would be just for fun) so enjoy having it around!

Honus (author)technoplastique2007-07-06

The telescope she got me is just a little one but it's still really cool. I saw a book in the librabry the other day on how to make your own Dobsonian telescope- that would make a great instructable!

technoplastique (author)Honus2007-07-06

Heck yes it would! I don't have much experience in optics, but what a way to learn. I might look into that after I get my next 6 or 8 projects done.... ;-)

Honus (author)technoplastique2007-07-07

That's exactly how I am- two projects finished........ten more to go! I'd suggest doing a collaberation but I know I wouldn't get around to it until next year. :P

Here's some telescope info for ya' :

technoplastique (author)leef_me2007-07-04

I added a safety paragraph (I had managed to lose track of it in all of my arranging/rearranging steps) and emphasized the front to back thing. Thanks for the suggestion!

tinyblob (author)2007-07-04

I can never decide which i think is more awesome, welding or soldering. But creativity is the most awesome, so you win top marks.

Very tempted to give this a go, it would make an excellent gift.

technoplastique (author)tinyblob2007-07-06

Soldering always felt a little more dramatic somehow - solder is a bit more finicky. I'm glad you like it, and I see what you mean, it would make a good gift because no one has one, and everyone has somewhere that could use a little light like this. Good luck to you if decide to try it!

tinyblob (author)technoplastique2007-07-06

Soldering gives you that tiny little god-complex, completing a circuit and seeing feedback hey, i made that LED light up!. Welding is more like a creative outlet, like drawing or sculpting.

If i get time to make this i'll let you know how it goes :)

5Volt (author)2007-07-04

Molto bello ! Congratulations. Ciao

technoplastique (author)5Volt2007-07-06


PR22 (author)2007-07-02

Can you please explain why the LEDs have 4 legs. Don't you only need 2?

technoplastique (author)PR222007-07-02

You can definitely do this with the 2 leg style, I used the 4 leg superflux because they're (supposed to be) brighter and spread their light out more. It also gave me more to wire to.

PR22 (author)technoplastique2007-07-03

What I meant was, what is the difference between 4 legs and 2?

technoplastique (author)PR222007-07-04

Since they really function the same I'm pretty sure the main difference is the sturdy factor. The legs are more 'cut from sheet metal' than 'wire', and I believe there are places (in vehicles like Dan said below) that the legs kind of plug in and what they're pluging into is designed for the 4 legs. In reality, I'm pretty sure an LED could have 10 legs and work the same, it's just for strength. I hope I answered you this time, let me know if I didn't!

leef_me (author)2007-07-03

Oh, sweet! So you have a 5 sided box that is partially hollow. The wall thickness really shows sturdy construction. Your drawing is good, but the thumbnail is easy to miss; can you make it bigger? Just a thought, how about mounting the switch so that it is parallel with the back instead of sticking out?

About This Instructable




Bio: Always making something....
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