Introduction: DIY 100W Led Flashlight
Want a powerful and "good loking" flashlight? Than this project is for you!
Watch the video with all the details obout this amazing project.
In the second part there is also the "how it is made" part. So help yourself in making it by watching the video and folowing the instructables steps.
Step 1: Housing and Parts
To make this light you will need:
Here I will let you use some of your ideas. The housing can be in defferent shapes. Of chourse you can copy mine if you want. I used an aluminum pipe. And a central aluminum core as a heatsink. The important thing is the LED chip is cooled. Thats' why i mounted it on such a big piece of metal. So feel free to use my ideas about housing that are quite detailed in the video. The front and rear cover are 3d printed from ABS as well as the handle.
I will not include the 3d files here because they are made for this exact pipe dimensions and they are easy to design if you have a 3dprinter and design software.
-100W led chip + reflector + lense
-100W led driver - search for step up constant voltage led driver
-Lipo battery (I have used 4S 3300mAh)
-some small electronics (switch, potentiometer, resistors)
Step 2: Mounting the Led
Mount the led on a heat sink using thermal paste and screws.
Glue the reflector and led lens on the led with epoxy glue.
Solder wires on the led that will go to the led driver.
Advice: If your heat sink is not big enough you can add active cooling with a fan. Connect the fan directly to the battery source after the on/off switch.
Step 3: Led Driver
Choose a Led step up DC DC driver that can hold at least 100W of power.
If you want to have a dimmer option than use the attached photo to make the driver dimmable.
After you upgrade it. Make sure you set up the maximum voltage on the trimmer. The maximum voltage must be as specified by the led chip supplier. Also! note that the led chip may drain more than 100W at the maximum voltage. So check the current too. And Set the maximum voltage a bit lower if needed so you do not exceed 100W at fully opened dimmer and fully charged battery.
Or, eventually you can also choose a constant current driver and set up the current.
Connect the driver's input to the battery after the on/off switch. And the output directly to the LED chip.
Step 4: Fit In, Connect
Fit the driver in the tube or your own designed housing.
Leave some space for the battery.
Mount the dimmer potentiometer.
Add an on/off switch to the housing and connect it in series with the battery's positive source wire.
Advice: Since lithium batteries must not be discharged under around 3V per cell. Add an lipo checker buzzer inside the tube so it will buzz a sound when your battery is empty. Choose the 2 wire 4S one and connect it after the on/off switch. You can find those online cheap. This is the one i have used: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobby-king-battery-monitor-4s.html
Step 5: Finish
Fit the battery in the tube, close the tube or your custom housing with 3d printed covers.
That's all. Some more assembly details are in the introduction video.
Turn it up and have fun!
Runner Up in the
LED Contest 2017
We have a be nice policy.
Please be positive and constructive.
Mhmmm... I did the same way but after connecting to the power supply one of the capacitors blow up! The input +/- was correct, so I start to wonder what did I done wrong...? :/
The only thing that is coming to my mind, is that i connected those 2 pins, during removal the blue potentiometer. When I check it with the multimeter, those 2 pins are connected and I am not sure if there were at the beggining.
Hmm, I double checked now how mine is made and looks, like your wiring is ok, so i have no idea at the moment what could cause it to blow up if your input connection was done right.
When you add a dimmer option - on attached photo you change the way you attach the blue potentiometer. When it was attach on the DC-DC driver, the gold pin (to regulate) was on the right. After - on the left. Is that correct?