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This Instructable will show you how to make a concrete door stop using a piece of 2" thick insulating foam. You'll print out a template, trace it onto foam, cut it out, glue it down to a base board, and then fill it with concrete.

Materials + Supplies:
Tools:
  • Jig Saw
  • Sandpaper (120, 220 grit)
Concrete Mixing:
  • Bucket / Wheelbarrow
  • Shovel / Trowel
  • Particle Mask
  • Rubber Gloves
Concrete Finishing:
  • Diamond Hand Sanding Pads (optional)

Step 1: Print out the Template

If you don't have a program like Photoshop or Illustrator, just use a program like Word. Choose a bold, thick font, and re-size it until it takes up most of the page. Or you can skip the following steps and sketch straight on the foam.

  • Print out the template.
  • Cut out the template with scissors.
  • Trace around the template on the foam with a permanent marker.
Choosing a font:
The font you use should be bold and thick, like Impact in this example. The concrete won't be very strong if it's less than 1" thick, and even then it will be easy to break, so take that into consideration when determining the size of the letters.


Hi, I loved your idea and decided to make my own. I created my mold using paper and cardboard, achieving a similar result. I'd like to hear some sugestions on how to use to keep a balcony door (which is blasted with a lot of wind at some periods of the day) half open without going back and hitting the concrete stopper. Thanks for your support! <br>
<p>good idea thanks:) </p>
The blue foam by Dow is Styrofoam. It's usually printed right on the material.
Thanks for this instructable. It did inspire me to make a variation of the doorstop. See:<a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-A-Variation-Of-The-Concrete-Doorstop/" rel="nofollow">http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-A-Variation-Of-The-Concrete-Doorstop/</a>. I enjoy working in concrete and instead of telling you how to &quot;improve&quot; your creation (as numerous other commenters do), I actually made my version. Thanks again.
Very very nice, thanks for sharing! I like how you improved the process, made it more robust, and used two different colors. Here's a picture of some two-colored house numbers I made using a similar technique (except using gasket rubber instead of foam for the cutout). It's tricky to fill just the numbers without having the red bleed into the grey. Nice work!
Yes, I like this...may try a few to solve that bleeding issue. Maybe just let the letters set up (a few hours) then pour the base. Adherence shouldn't be a problem I think. I have poured just numbers on an acrylic sheet, then removed them. They could then be glued onto a base.
If it were me, I'd put in about 2 thirds of the concrete, vibrate it, add some steel wire to make it keep from cracking as easily, then add the remaining concrete to fill the form. I'd also paint some diesel fuel on the form itself before adding the concrete assuming that it didn't eat the form up as a release agent. You could cut the form out with a slight bevel (about 10 degrees) to it so as to make the piece come out of the form easier as well and possibly re-use the form. Just a thought....
Diesel fuel will most definitely melt the foam. No mold release is necessary because a foam mold like this won't be re-usable. In order to re-use it, you could try lining the inside of the foam with clear packing tape, but that's really tedious. The tape will keep the concrete from locking into the microscopic pores in the foam, and it might slide out if there's enough draft. The clear packing tape will also give the concrete a smooth and shiny texture. A wire cage for reinforcement is a good idea, and when I try this again, I'll make a frame from wire coat hangers and suspend it in the form. At least if it breaks, the wire will help hold it together.
Right on.
Question: Imagine that! I was wondering if a metal (wire/rebar) frame is recommended for this if people will be stepping on it or you'll be moving it around. Not sure how strong the concrete will hold.
Very good job! i love the simple technique and elegance of it :)
If it were me, I'd put in about 2 thirds of the concrete, vibrate it, add some steel wire to make it keep from cracking as easily, then add the remaining concrete to fill the form. I'd also paint some diesel fuel on the form itself before adding the concrete assuming that it didn't eat the form up as a release agent. You could cut the form out with a slight bevel (about 10 degrees) to it so as to make the piece come out of the form easier as well and possibly re-use the form. Just a thought....
Neat instructable. We use 2 coats of rubber cement to bond styrofoam, etc. Put rubber cement on both surfaces, let dry and apply a second coat. Allow to dry for 10 - 15 minutes before bonding. We also use a hot wire cutter for cutting.
Funny thing - put a vertically just inside the door garden gate!
What about using some sort of release agent (like Pam cooking spray, silicone spray, etc.) to make it easier de-mold it?
Very well done. Turned out super crisp. Simple technique but effective. Great job!
This will, of course, work with any brand of concrete, not just that promoted by the author.
You're absolutely right. This project can be done with any type of concrete (or styrofoam), but a 5000 psi. concrete mix will achieve greater strength and this helps cut down on the curing time. Sakrete 5000+ in particular is formulated to be free of fly ash and other fillers which can have a negative effect on color when the concrete is being pigmented. But of course you can use whatever concrete mix is available at the local hardware store. Thanks for the comment.

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