easy sturdy home bicycle repair stand.

What you need:

black plumbing pipes:

(for top of stand)
1 - 2" piece
2 - 3" pieces
2 - 4" pieces
3 - 3/4" elbows
1 - 3/4" T-joint

(center of stand)
1 - 36" pipe

(Bottom of stand)
4 - 10" pieces of pipe
2 - 12" pieces of pipe
1 - 3/4" T-joint
4 - 3/4" pipe clamps
2 - 32" pieces 2x4

5 velcro straps

Step 1: Connecting the pipes

Assemble all the pipes as you see in the pic. The 12" pipes go on the bottom to support the weight of the bike. It's important to tighten the pipes as much as possible. Use white pipe threat tape if needed. You dont want any movement in the pipes once tightened. Alternativley you use liquid thread sealer if you dont plan on disassembling it.
Pizz, I made a very similar workstand in the early 90's because I couldn't afford a retail stand, and it still get's heavy use to this day, 20 something years later. <br> <br>My base is a little different, and the area that I &quot;hang&quot; the bike is also slightly different. <br> <br>I think your base is more stable than mine, though mine may be easier to store in the car hole. My design has just two &quot;feet&quot; that come out at 45 degrees from the bike angle. <br> <br>I think my hanger area is a little more versatile regarding different frame designs (and/or small bikes, like my kids 12ers and 16ers). <br> <br>I have one area that I want to improve.. I &quot;padded&quot; the pipe contact area by wrapping it with a lot of electrical tape, but unfortunately, the tape shrinks over time, and leaves behind a gluey mess that gets on the frame tubing. I need a better padding solution.
Thank you! Now I don't have to figure out ridiculous ways to balance the bike. :D
Thanks for the great instructable! This is the best DIY stand I've found.<br> <br> A couple questions. When you turn the arms (the T-joint), how does it stay in place? It seems like your tightening the t-joint by turning it clockwise, but any chance it might slip back (counter-clockwise)? Or do your just tighten it until the point where it can't slip back?
I used rubber plumbers tape around the threads. That gives a very tight fit. I tighten it clockwise. The pressure is good to hold the bike in place. If you want you can also strap the front wheel where the wheel makes contact with the base tube. (see comment in the pic above)
Cool. That makes sense. Must have missed it the first time. Thanks!
Nice way to keep a road bike off the floor to fix it. But this isn't the way to go for those mountain bike frames out there with some curve in the top tube.
This would work fine as long as the top tube was long enough. You might just have to adjust the angle. The same goes for step-through frames, actually, which would perhaps be more of a problem (though not if you lashed the top tube to the stand, which I might do if I built this, since I'm into knots and such anyway.
Just a heads up, the bottom requires three t's rather than just one as listed in the &quot;What you need:&quot; section. I&nbsp;should have paid more attention, but when I&nbsp;went to build, I&nbsp;only had the two total t's that I&nbsp;bought and needed to hit up the store again to buy two more.<br /> <br /> Thanks for the plan though. Should be perfect.<br />
Would be a little better if you add a elbow with a 1 inch pipe at the top part so the bike will not come off in a angle.&nbsp; Also instead of the big&nbsp;<br /> |&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp; |<br /> |---|---|<br /> |&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp; |<br /> at the bottom why not use a 5 gallon bucket half full of cement with a 1 inch pipe in the center.<br /> <br /> Then drill holes on each pipe end to use a bolt or a automotive cod pin think thats how you call it.&nbsp; You may need to use a reducer to attach both pipes and you can just remove the pin to store away.&nbsp; As the way it is hard to place anywhere in home or garage.<br /> <br /> But lots of pipe insulation is needed, and maybe use pvc pipe at the top section where I&nbsp;mentioned above so the bike will not tilt over. &nbsp;<br /> <br /> I do like this alot but cost to much to build when I can get a bike repair stand that will work with all bikes.&nbsp; As someone stated above it won't work for there bike because of suspension.&nbsp; But for 40 bucks on ebay they have a repair stand that is portable and easy to store.<br /> <br /> But another note this may be used to do exercise work outs.<br />
First off great design. I put mine together and I love it. I did make a couple of tweaks but mainly just window dressings. Thank you for a easy bike stand that works like a charm.<br/><br/>Parts cost: $60 Lowes<br/><br/>Parts List:<br/>black plumbing pipes:<br/><br/>(for top of stand)<br/>1 - 2&quot; piece (removed)<br/>2 - 3&quot; pieces (added one more 3&quot;)<br/>2 - 4&quot; pieces<br/>3 - 3/4&quot; elbows<br/>1 - 3/4&quot; T-joint<br/>2 - end caps (added)<br/><br/>(center of stand)<br/>1 - 36&quot; pipe (changed to 48&quot;)<br/><br/>(Bottom of stand)<br/>4 - 10&quot; pieces of pipe<br/>2 - 12&quot; pieces of pipe<br/>1 - 3/4&quot; T-joint (added two more)<br/>4 - 3/4&quot; pipe clamps (not needed)<br/>2 - 32&quot; pieces 2x4 (not needed)<br/>1 - roll black electrical tape (added)<br/>1 - piece pipe insulation (added)<br/>4 - end caps (added)<br/>1 - hand clamp (added)<br/><br/>I basically used the same assembly. I am assuming that you didn't need the two inch piece because in your tagged photos you show only 3<em>. I took the pipe tubing to protect the bike from the rack and wrapped them all in black tape. Instead of the 2x4's with clamps I put the tubing on the legs and wrapped those as well. It allowed for a more stable balance without the use of the wood. I used the clamp and the clearance is perfect and really locks the bike in place. Thanks again for this.</em><br/>
You know I was thinking on this version, I like it! I have a Mongoose XR75 and the rear shock split frame makes it difficult for this type of stand to work. Now just to add input I would buy an extension pipe (about 6" X .5) to put a Pipe Vise for other models of Bikes. I will build this first to see if there is an easier cheaper method.
Another Idea... Use velcro straps to go around the frame to hold the bike in place!?! Awesome Instructable though, I just joined and think I am going to build one.
(sarcasm)for rock solid i recommend asus,their "motto" is rock solid heart touching(/sarcasm)
I have an Asus 24" monitor and when arrived and saw that motto on the box I thought: "That has to be the stupidest tagline ever...even still it's a great monitor.
Great instructable! I've been eying this for a while and finally got around to making it today. I used puremalice's modified parts list, and also added end caps and insulating strip with adhesive backing. I put this on the top piece, which essentially went on like bar tape. It's super squishy and perfect for protecting pretty frames. I was so excited after building this that I did a complete overhaul on my Surly LHT. The stand was rock solid as I was cranking the gears like crazy and adjusting the rear derailer. I'm impressed and very happy with my new stand. I've never had a pro stand, so can't compare, but I'm happy to get to build it myself and also save money that I can spend on other projects! Thanks, pizz, for the great instructions!
I have a Mixte frame, would that work here?
i usually just turn the bike up side down
just a thought- to better stabilize the bike when you're doing rough work on it, you could add another set of 90 degree elbows at the two open ends holding the bike and maybe even a 2 or 3 inch pipe to really hold it in and keep it from falling off, again only if the tape wasn't tacky enough or you just wanted a bit more security
Couldn't you improve the stability without increasing the footprint by extending the length of the bottom on the sides where the most weight will be and reducing a similar amount on the opposite sides? For example, on the side where the contact mount is, all the weight will want to go in that direction unless you happen to be working on a very steep hill. So you could probably get by with a 8" extension on the other side and do 16" on the side with the contacts as opposed to doing it 12"/12". Likewise, if the back end of the bike is very heavy it would make sense to increase that side of the bottom by 2" and decrease the other by a similar amount. The only down side I can see is if you put a very heavy bike up that is evenly weighted on both ends.
Now that I think about it, you could only work on one side of the bike if you did what I suggested above in the second paragraph, but the first paragraph still is valid I believe.
one major improvement: substitute the middle 3" pipe for an 8" inch and you can pedal any size bike while mounted on the stand. the added length gives added clearance.
GREAT INSTRUCTABLE i just built one today. i would have built it in under 30 minutes but had to return to lowes because your part list is wrong. you need more t joints. i changed your design by making it taller. i am six one and 48 inches was to short. thanks for your wonderful work i will post pics soon. it cost around 50 dollars
I LOVE THIS INSTRUCTABLE!!!!!! (sorry for shouting) I took some of purmalice's ideas and this thing is brilliant! I was worried about putting my bike up because I have an electric motor and 3 8lbs lead batteries bolted on the back, the stand did fine once I clamped it tight lol. Very Very Sturdy! The only thing I would suggest is using Galvanized Pipe which isn't greased, or if you're using the black plumbing pipe wear some latex gloves. Or else you'll get your hands covered in dirtiness. Here's a few pics of my stand: (pic 1 I had the top bracket turned out the wrong way, but I fixed it :) This was cheap to build! $40 + i think 10 for the hand clamp. thanks again guys for the great idea! No more propping my bike against the lawn mower when I work on it :P
I can't say enough about this bike stand...Brilliant idea!!!!!
I've just completed building the stand. It couldn't be easier: just 20 minutes of simple work, a monkey wrench, and all for less than US$45!! Thank you!
How does this stand compare to the pvc stand at this site? &lt;br/&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/PVC-Bike-Repair-Stand/&quot;&gt;http://www.instructables.com/id/PVC-Bike-Repair-Stand/&lt;/a&gt; &lt;br/&gt;Has anyone tried both?&lt;br/&gt;<br/>
Before building this stand I built one similar to that one. It wasnt sturdy enough for me and the pvc just has too much flex.
This is a wonderful idea. I was going to buy one of those professional stands until I read this how-to. Here's a thought concerning adding a clamp to this design. Home Depot (or wherever) sells pipe clamps -- as in vises that mount to pipe ends. You can use about an 8" piece of pipe and a pipe clamp instead the two-pronged setup, or you could even use both. I turned the top of the stand into two sides: one has a clamp and the other has the two-pronged stand. It's a glorious variation on an already great DIY design.
You could slant the upper contact points downward a couple degrees to keep the front wheel from flopping around. I'm excited to get started on this!
Great project. I've been considering a similiar design myself. The only thing stopping me from building is that I've been unable to figure out a way to design a clamp. But after reading your instructable I find myself thinking that maybe I don't need the clamp... Am I understanding correctly that you are using a velcro strap to secure the frame to the stand? Does this allow sufficient support for all types of repairs normally performeded on professional stands? Or do you recommend this only for light mechanics?
ok i was thinking the same thing on the clamp but its real easy to do ive seen one made out of angle ironand if you look at a store made one the two pices of iron that hold the bike the 2 that come back from that have a hole drilled in both and the bottom one is threaded so you can screw it down and then the 2 that hold the bike where dipped in a rubber coating to protect the finish of the bike
I've done a few major and minor repairs on this stand and it holds rock steady. It performs better then I expected. I would say equal to any of the mid to high end stands just without a clamp. If you're doing any frame welding or anything like that I would use a clamp stand. But for general bike repair and maintenance, this stand works like a champ and at nearly a quater of the cost of a Park stand. THe velcro strap does a fantastic job and I would use it over a rope.
why is there electrical tape all over your bike???doesent it get stiky...
This bike is my daily beater, I keep it locked at a train station during the week for commuting to work. I have old tire tubing wrapped around the bikes' tubes and wrapped over it with electrical tape. I did it to weather and ding proof it. Works great!
I tried to make something similar to this out of black pipe but could not get the joints to stay tight. My bike is a little heavy (semirecumbent with a motor). Anyone have any ideas? Perhaps I should just use wood bracing with more pipe clamps. By the way, I got a Jorgensen pony woodworkers clamp to put the bike on. I just locked it in a benchvise on the end of a short length of pipe to work on the bike, which was ok but less convenient than a stand I can take where I want it. If I can get the black pipe to stay locked, I will use a couple of these to hold the bike steady while I work on it.
Excellent idea here! I may just steal the idea and build this stand. I like building stuff, and plumbing pipe is one of my favorite materials. I usually use copper because I like soldering stuff with a propane torch. But the idea of being to disassemble the stand rules! I have to wonder why it did not occur to me to think up this idea myself. Thanks for posting this.
A few comments - I just built this (with some mods). First - can you please update the part list to have the correct number of parts? Many fools like me will just grab that and go . . . only to have to go back. Had I read the replies, I would have seen more T connectors. I made this with a 48" pipe as the main post (making it a foot taller). I also switched the front legs to 18" (insted of 12"). I have not added the wood yet and this thing is crazy solid. Other adjustments I made: all 3 top parts are just 2" and not two at 3" and one 2". I then put end caps on the two ends so that there is a 'valley' all the way across. I think padded it all and then duct taped everything.
nice bike bro, i really want a fixie
So, you use the rope to hold the bike on?
I've ditched the rope in favor of a velcro strap, works 100x better
I also experimented with using straps on the top 3 tubes to hold the top tube down and it works well. Gives it more stability if your doing any rough work
thanks for a great plan. are dimensions including thread, or exclusive of thread?
including thread. They're called black pipe
Sorry, but I am a girl. What tool do you use to cut the pipe? I have a PVC cutting wheel, is there something similar for metal pipe? Second, how do you tighten, I assume the ends are not threaded since these pieces have to be cut to length.
You don't have to cut any pieces. You can buy them to size at Home Depot. I bought all my supplies at Home Depot. Didnt have to cut a thing. The pipes come threaded so I used plumbing tape on the threads to make a secure fit.
Personally I would recommend something like this, but with a clamp set up. As long as you're not working on a carbon fiber (and if you are, you can probably afford a nice park tool workstand from the bike shop) a clamp on the frame or seatpost adds a lot of stability, which is really nice.
The pedals move freely between the center pipe and dont make any contact with the stand. I've worked on my derailer with no problems! I found this stand to hold up to alot of abuse and is suprisingly sturdy due to the metal pipes and base. i think a clamp added the stand would make it that much more useful, but as is, it works very well
Can you easily work on the deraillures with this setup? From the pictures it looks like the pedals would hit the center pipe. Perhaps a longer offset?
In your experience, do you need the wooden base, or would it work just as well sitting on the pipes?
I tried it first without the base and even though it was firm, it wasnt steady enough for me. I added the wood 2X4s and that did the trick . Now the stand stays firm when I rock my bike on it. Another sugesstion would be to get good quality 2X4s. Cheep wood will split and bend over time. Good quality wood 2X4s will last forever

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