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This is going to be fun. Get ready. Have some boring wood lying around your place? Sure its grain is beautiful, but its color is so blah! In this instructable I'll show you how you can stain wood an array of colors with something you probably already have in your pantry. Food coloring!

Let's get started!

Step 1: Prepping Wood

Unfortunately the only wood I had lying around was a solid 2x8 and since painting it wouldn't be all that fun, I decided to make kids' wooden toy blocks. This way, I could play around with a lot of different colors

I used a table saw to hack down my huge piece of wood into more manageable strips. Then with some measuring and the help of a chop saw, I cut up 3 different sizes: 3 inches, 5 inches and 7 inches, for a total of 9 blocks. After sanding all the edges and sides, these guys were ready to get painted!

This might work better if you pre raise the grain or use a sanding sealer underneath. The light tome was perfect for this project though. Sealed with non toxic shellac topcoat.
<p>Would Metholated spirits work as well as the Rubbing Alcohol...do you know?</p>
<p>Using methylated, or denatured, spirits would make it no longer food safe as methylated spirits have toxic additives specifically added to discourage consumption. Isopropyl alcohol evaporates cleanly and quickly and is probably the best alcohol to use for this application. </p>
<p>is this food safe?</p>
<p>Should be, yep. The alcohol will evaporate, leaving only the food coloring behind (which is, by definition, food safe).</p>
<p>Great insights. From prepping to applying dyes, each step looks professionally so perfect. It&rsquo;s all that technique and quality dye which can bring a good result!</p>
<p>I cut shellac with lots of alcohol (10:1) before using it as a sealer on the end grain, This will prevent the end grain from soaking up too much dye (end grain is a sponge!) - if too much is absorbed the end grain will be darker than the side/face grain surfaces.</p><p>I use a lot of analine wood dyes - this is a great idea. I wonder if the food colorings are light stable so it doesn't fade in time by exposure to light.</p>
<p>Hi Kieth 726...this is an old thread...but am new here...after a long absence..I also wotk with ($$$) analine dyes (and shellac) and was looking for a cheaper alternative.</p><p>My original supplier of dyes suspended in metho and...something else compatible with shellac discontinued their product so was left 'high and dry' as we say here.</p><p>Wonder would you know or have tried, (since you also work with metholated spirits and shellac) if these food colours will combine equally as well with the metho (and shellac) as with the Rubbing Alcohol? Its probably a silly wuestion...but thought that the medicinal alcohol might have some other additive making it more compatible with the food colours.</p><p>Wonder what they colours are suspended in?</p><p>I am in Australia so the food colours are a different brand.</p><p>I'm using the colours and shellac for artwork...so don't have any other considerations concerning the grain of wood and absorbency to consider.</p>
<p>:) You haven't worked with the right wood if you think the grain is blah... :)</p><p>Great job! Just one question.. Is the color light fast? I've been wanting to try it but I need the color to stay the same over time. I usually use a commercially purchased dye but they are expensive!</p>
<p>I'd be very interested to know how these nice blocks look like today, some 9 months later. Have they retained their colour?</p>
The color of the wood will affect the final colour
<p>Will the stain wash off later?</p><p>I mean if kids use it and say dirty the blocks can we wash it? or will the color run? Do we have to protect it with a finish?</p>
<p>This is brilliant! I have been trying to find non-toxic stain for my bunny's toys for ages, and had just never thought of this. Thank you.</p>
<p>Was just about to ask if this was bunny-safe!<br>Do I take it that it is, then? (:</p>
I certainly can't see why it wouldn't be. The general online consensus seems to be that food colouring is fine for bunnies, and the rubbing alcohol should mostly evaporate on drying. I suppose if your rabbit ate an entire block of wood a day, it might be a problem! LOL.
<p>I wouldn't put it past him..!<br>Thank you (:</p>
I wish I could get those McCormick food dyes in the UK. The colours are great, and those little pointy bottles make it so easy to measure drop by drop. You can mix just about any color you want and use it for painting or stamping (on paper or on hard icing). Thanks for the instructable!
<p>I love color. These are beautiful!</p>
<p>Apply shellac to end grain to prevent it soaking up so much dye.</p>
<p>Any issues with staining other items on contact or if they get wet?</p>
<p>If it is kept dry, then no, there should be no issues. I would suggest rubbing it with wax- there are LOTS of natural options such as beeswax or linseed oil for example- to lock the color in and make it a little water-resistant. Note, water-resistant, not water-proof. If you plan on submerging the wood or any possible prolonged water exposure- like a boat- I would suggest a chemical sealant to prevent water damage to the wood as well as leaching of the stain from the wood. The beeswax just provides a food-safe and natural water-resistant barrier so that you have time to wipe the water up on surfaces such as tables and other furniture.</p>
<p>I know you are giving examples of what to cover the wood with in order to not have the colors bleed, but please don't recommend linseed oil. Linseed oil is not natural. It comes from Flax seeds and flax seed oil is ok to consume, but linseed oil is chemically treated and harmful if ingested. It is used in furniture finishes and most stains and varnished but is not safe for kids. Bees wax, mineral oil, white shellac, water based polyurethane, and salad bowl finish are your best bets for a safe coating. </p><p>Most wood workers actually leave kids toys unfinished when giving them away to avoid any issues with coatings at all. But if you need to protect from color bleed, the need for a coating is there. </p>
<p>I agree with you on the linseed oil Spider, and I'll raise you the water-based PU (or most any other paint-like or varnish-like waterproof finishes ) It's not the volatile stuff in paint that's poison (volatiles evaporate, by definition), it's what's left on the toy, to be chewed off by the child. To the best of my knowledge, the only hard-drying coating that's completely harmless is shellac--this is actually available rated food-grade; specifically for painting baby toys It's basically an insect secretion, dissolved in alcohol. If you substituted grain alcohol, you could drink the stuff. Also safely eat the bits you might chew off a finished wood block! Yes, the non-drying finishes like mineral oil are safe enough, but that one is a strong laxative! And the others are subject to being rubbed off--along with the underlying stain. Epoxy might be safe in theory, but unless it is perfectly proportioned, practically down a molecular level, there will be un-reacted resin and/or hardener microspheres within the matrix. </p>
<p>Very cool...just bought some unfinished birdhouses...I'll get a fiesta theme </p><p>goin' on....thanks for sharing!</p>
<p>use a non toxic when dry varathane, etc to finish them or they will gleefully turn all they touch colorful as well! And if mixed in a bag or pile on humid days they will recombine and eventually become black</p>
<p>Thanks for sharing! Those are vivid colors, perfect for toys.</p>
<p>A shocking red zombie stopper? I'll give this a crushing try!</p>
That's a great and simple project. I'll do it with my kids.
<p>Very, very nice!</p>

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