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While the title of this DIY suggests that I made a raised bed planter, what it doesn't tell you is how raised it actually is.  This planter sits about 30" off the ground, and actually has legs on it.  I know, right?  That's really tall!

This DIY was inspired by Ana White's Plan for Counter Height Planter Boxes.

Materials:

2 - 4"x4" Fir or Cedar post (fir is cheaper and lasts nearly as long)
2 - 1"x6"x8' Cedar boards. Select the boards that have the least amount of knots in them.  You'll thank me later.
2 - 1"x4"x8' Cedar boards. Select the boards that have the least amount of knots in them.  You'll thank me later.
1 - 1/4" Hardware cloth that is at least 24" wide.  This can be found in the landscaping section. 
16 - 2" Long hex bolts. You will likely find these in a bin in the hardware aisle.  Make sure you check every single one you choose to make sure they are all the same.  Some may have been placed there accidentally.
16 - Washers.  Make sure that these fit around your 2" Hex Bolts. Make sure you check every single one you choose to make sure they are all the same.  Some may have been placed there accidentally.
16 - 3/8" Threaded Insert Nuts. If you shop at Lowe's, these will be in one of the drawers of inserts in the Hardware section.  This is what they look like.
24 - 1.5" Galvanized Screws

Drill
1/2" Wood bit
Miter or Table Saw that has the capability of cutting a 4"x4" post.
Wire Cutters or Heavy Duty Shears
Staple Gun
1/2" Staples for Staple gun

Hammer
Screwdrivers
Hex wrench
Measuring Tape
Pencil
Sandpaper
Safety Glasses

Cut List:

Lowe's has a wood cutting service, as do most hardware stores.  They can cut the smaller pieces of wood for you for an additional cost, but it's really cheap. They currently do not have the capability to cut pieces of wood larger than 3" thick. 

Legs - Cut the 4"x4" into 4 - 32" posts.  Lowe's will not be able to make this cut for you. Their saws will not fit this size.  You will need a miter saw or a table saw to make these cuts.
Sides: Cut one of the 1"x6"x8' into two 48" pieces.
Ends: Cut one of the 1"x6"x8' into two 24" pieces.
Bottom slats: Cut the two 1"x4"x8' into six 24" pieces.
Bottom hardware cloth: Cut the hardware cloth into a 24"x50" rectangle.


Full tutorial and other information can be found here: http://rhodylife.blogspot.com/2013/04/diy-repair-hole-in-wood.html

Step 1: Gather all of your supplies and tools.

Make sure that you have everything listed in the Materials list.  These are the tools and pieces that you will need to put together your planter.
<p>Hi,</p><p>Great<br>instructions, am just getting into home veg and herb growing, so this is quite<br>nice. One question: do you have a version of this which uses wood from shipping<br>pallets? got a few of them lying around, so would prefer to recycle them<br>instead of going for new wood. My main doubt is making the legs using the<br>pallet wood. I live in the tropics so a raised platform is a must, as at ground<br>level you simply cannot avoid leaf-cutter ants and other assorted pests without<br>resorting to pesticides, which I don&rsquo;t want to use. I have lost entire crops of<br>ginger, spring onions and other assorted edibles to those pesky ants, so I plan<br>on putting barriers on the legs to keep them from climbing. I also have a bad<br>back, so a good height will certainly help!</p>
<p>It's a nice looking bed, but I see several design problems with it that the beginner gardener will not realize until it's too late.</p><p>First, the wire mess will sag under the weight of wet soil.</p><p>Second, water will drain through the bottom when plants are watered, taking with it soil and nutrients.</p><p>Third, even if the bottom were made of side by side boards, water would still drain making it quite a challenge to keep the soil moist.</p><p>One easy fix and something I have done with an elevated bed similar to this one is to use a pond liner or 6 mm black plastic and put a small drain hole on the bed. Keeping shallow, elevated beds moist is a challenge, the liner will not cause water accumulation and root rot. Exces water simply evaporates out the top or is absorbed by the roots.</p>
I see you have some experience with raised beds. I have not experienced the sag that you were referring to with the hardware cloth. The boards places beneath them have kept this from happening. Also, I used landscape fabric on top of the hardware cloth and have not lost any soil. The water is draining sufficiently through this fabric too.
<p>I'm new to this stuff... This may be a stupid question, but why are screws used instead of nails? Could I use nails if that is already what I have on hand? It looks like the hex bolts make everything more sturdy.</p>
When the soil is added, the weight will push out on the boards. This will cause the nails to back out. I would at least use screws as the thread will keep them from backing out. I used lag screws and they worked great.
This was so fun to make!
I just made two of these for my mother-in-law. I made them 42&quot; tall so that she wouldn't have to bend over to work in them. I also used lag screws instead of bolts with inserts. They worked great when I pre-drilled the holes.
This is a great instructable. I used this as a base for our lettuce table. Changed the boards to 5/4 pine, and used 2x4's for legs instead of the 4x4's. Also, I used a router with a round over bit to ease the edges on top.
Do you recommend using corrugated cardboard for a liner?
Do you recommend using corrugated cardboard for a liner?
Great instructable! It was very well written. Home Depot does not carry insert screws. You need to get them at Lowe's (or a different hardware store. Also, they only seem to stock around 10 3/8&quot; insert screws per Lowe's location. Probably best to plan ahead and order online!
<p>Could you paint the planter? Would that be a problem?</p>
<p>Hey, thanks for the plans. I'm making this raised bed for my mother. Got all the parts today, but I'm confused why it does not call for 5 inch ( or so ) hex bolts to get through the 4 x 4. I suspect I'm missing something. Can you clarify? Thanks! Sutton</p>
awesome instructable. Very well written.
I made it except I made an 8' x 6' &quot;L&quot; shaped planter 35&quot; high so as to accommodate my power wheelchair. I am also adding a ground based raised planter on the two long arms of the planter 12&quot;wide to accommodate tall plants like tomatoes. Layer I will add irrigation to the project.<br>
<p>It's exactly what I want to make. I will keep you posted! Thank you for posting these instructions.</p>
<p>I used 42&quot; long legs cause we are tall people...:)</p><p>used left over for a small shelf on the front too...</p>
<p>6 foot long as well.....:)</p>
Hello, I built this yesterday with a 12&quot; deep bed, but before I filled it with soil I wanted to see if there was a recommended max load i.e. 6 cu ft of soil weights 120lbs?
Hello, I just made this yesterday with a 12&quot; deep bed, but before I fill it with potting soil I wanted to see if there was a recommended max load i.e. 6 cu ft of soil weights 120lbs, can this structure bare that weight?
<p>My husband and son made this together. Actually they made 2 of them. They made them with a few changes: Ours are 2'x4', and they actually had enough material leftover to make a small 2' squared one, a little shorter. I'm thrilled with them and can't wait to plant my garden! Thank you. By the way, found this on Pinterest! :-)</p><p>(3rd attempt at posting this. Hope there aren't multiple posts.)</p>
<p>Thank you for the idea. I made this but made it deeper. I used lag bolts with fender washers on the sides and added furring strips inside to hold the bottom slats. In addition to all this I added 2 layers of landscaping fabric. I used 2x4s for the feet because 4x4s are expensive. It is really solid.</p>
<p>thanks for the instructable! I deviated a bit on the hardware, but it turned out great :D</p>
Good and practical idea. <br>What I would add to this, is a similar &quot;bed&quot; low down between the posts to utilise as an earthworm farm. That way any run-off water will drip directly into the compost below, and not be &quot;lost&quot; into the ground below. And the compost will be close-by and ready to use. <br>And so a &quot;square-yard&quot; farm can be double productive.
Something like this would be very useful for the caster idea. Put 2 rigid casters on one end of the planter and 2 swivel casters on the other end. Then you would be able to &quot;steer&quot; it around the yard also. I used these on large sawhorses I built to move my VW Beetle body shell around the yard when I was restoring it, and they roll very easily, almost no effort once you get them started. <br> <br>http://www.harborfreight.com/10-inch-pneumatic-rigid-caster-38943.html <br>and <br>http://www.harborfreight.com/10-inch-pneumatic-swivel-caster-38944.html
Hello! I made your raised bed planter, and wanted to share the excellent results! Ok, so actually my husband made the planter, and then my children and I picked out veggies, strawberries, and herbs to grow in it, and then planted them this afternoon. It was a wonderful project that the whole family got involved in. We can't wait to see how the plants grow over the next few months! Thank you for posting!!
I am so glad you made this counter height. This is exactly what I need! Thanks for posting!
Maybe add wheels on bottom so they are portable thru yard and can take them indoors in the winter for possible year round growing?? or use legs with casters like these: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/30250257/ ??
I really like this idea! That would be so helpful for me! I may look for some large casters that are weather resistant and have rubber wheels versus plastic wheels for when I build my second planter.
Great Instructible!! My Mom was having my Dad make up some raised bed planters. I have seen other tuturials, but yours looks so clean and simple. I like it.! I might see about making one for my Shade garden to grow lettuce in the shade of my tiny backyard. <br>Great photos. I have a question about the hardware cloth installation. I see how the boards attach it in the middle but on the short edges, is there another strip of wood that holds it up, IOW, how do you keep it from sagging on the very edges of the short sides. I can't seem to see a photo that shows it. Thanks for your reply.
The hardware cloth is stapled to the underside of the side boards and the sides of the legs at the corners. The boards that go across the bottom are meant for support, so without them the hardware cloth is still stapled to the side boards.
Oh, I see. I misunderstood about the staples purpose. Thanks. What do you have growing in your awesome raised bed? Is it so much easier than squatting down all the time? Is the newspaper working well enough to keep the soil in and moisture high enough? <br> <br>I imagine using corrugated cardboard as a bottom, cause that's what I used for my worm bin before. it holds up really strong but still breathable and holds water well. <br>Thanks again. Happy Spring!
I actually just did my plantings this weekend. I planted basil, oregano, parsley, rosemary, chives, and garlic. And yes, the newspaper is holding up really well. I put in about 6 sheets in most places, and then they overlapped in others, so some spots are thicker than others.
Another option for attaching everything would be to just use a staple gun. Quick, easy, and will probably hold up about as long as using any other hardware.
What was the total cost?
The total cost came out to $110, however, that leaves you with a lot of extra supplies, including: 1/2 sheet less than a full pack of sandpaper, 50/75 screws since I bought a box, two extra legs from one of the 4&quot;x4&quot; posts, a third long side board, and enough hardware cloth for at least one more planter, since my roll was 10' long.
Deeper sides would be more practical for growing a greater variety of plants, especially if this is intended for food plants. they will be much happier with greater room for roots.
Yes, I agree that for different plants and vegetables, deeper sides would be more practical. The nice thing about this plan is that you can easily use a 12&quot; board instead of a 6&quot; one without having to change much else in the design plan. I may decide to do that when I build my additional ones.
This is true depending on how intensively you want to care for your garden and what your climate is. In a hot, dry climate (what I have to deal with in the summer) a deeper bed and wider spacing between vegetables will result in less work and watering for the gardener and similar yield due to more vigorous plants.
I started Square Foot Gardening two years ago with great results. You only need 6&quot; of soil mix. My rosemary plant turned into a bush and is still thriving from when I started two years ago. ; )
Good job. You may want to consider landscape fabric to hold the dirt as it drains well and keeps the dirt from passing. If you are going to be watering it often, set a plastic bin under your table to catch run off and re-use it.
Both of those are great suggestions. Thanks!
Great idea for the planter, I'll make one for my sister. <br>A small typo though: your part list says: <br>2 - 1&quot;x6&quot;x8&quot; <br>2 - 1&quot;x4&quot;x8&quot; <br>The latter two should be ...... x8' i.e. 8 feet, not 8 inches. <br>I noticed this when (further down) it says: &quot;Sides: Cut one of the 1&quot;x6&quot;x8&quot; into two 48&quot; pieces&quot; and of course you cant cut an 8&quot; long board into 2 pieces at 48&quot; long. <br>
Thank you for pointing this out! I have made changes to the post to reflect the size the boards should actually be.
This is lovely! Perfect for square foot gardening. I made one similar to this last year, but yours looks much sturdier and nicer. I was just about to redo mine before planting the seedlings, so I saw this at the perfect time!
water crystals would be great for this garden planter, as this isn't that deep the water crystals will hold onto more water resulting in less watering
We just cut the lumber for our self-designed but similar planter last night and we're using furring strips on the sides. We then laid the horizontal slats across the strips... and between the slats on the perimeter we placed 1&quot; x 5/8&quot; x 10&quot; spacers. This way the wire has a flat area all the way around that we can staple the hardware cloth to without getting &quot;wavy&quot; on the edges. By ensuring the wire is secured and flat on top of the slats with the staples securing the wire facing DOWN gravity is always on our side.
Thank you for posting this. Love this. I've tried to explain what I want for my garden, but no one seemed to think it could be done. You've shown it here. I have very bad back issues, and other health issues that make it imperative that I eat healthier. I can't afford to buy, and am unable to easily get the fresh products that I want/need. This is perfect for me. I can envision herbs, bush beans, peas, cucumber, zucchini, carrots, etc... growing in these. I've already found a way to grow potatoes in a barrel with a latched door at the bottom for harvesting them, and tomatoes are grown in a large pot with the cage fitting inside. I can see a slightly lower bed for the pole green beans.
Looks great! I'd suggest coating the interior wood in either melted paraffin or (organic) beeswax to preventing rotting.

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Bio: Favorite color=orange. Self-taught techie. Fabric hoarder. Pinterest addict. I enjoy: crafting, blog-stalking, planning/organizing, shopping for unnecessary things, being outside, and playing sports.
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