Instructables

DIY Routing Table

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Picture of DIY Routing Table
This Instructable describes a routing table I made at Techshop after taking the Laser Cutter SBU.

I wanted a project to try out my new laser cutting skills, and a router mounting plate for a router table seemed perfect. Techshop has a nice router table that members can use, but I have a lot a small projects in my garage, so my own table at home would come in handy.

In this instructable, I describe all the tools and materials you need to construct your own.

If you'd like to obtain the design files, they are located on GitHub at https://github.com/wwashington/DIY-Routing-Table.git

For more information about TechShop go to http://www.techshop.ws
 
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Step 1: Routing Table Tools and Materials

Picture of Routing Table Tools and Materials
To build the router table you will need the following tools:

* Router
* Router Speed Controller (optional)
* 3/4" Countersink Bit
* 1/2" Height Rabetting Router Bit
* 5/16" Drill Bit
* 3/4" Forstner Bit
* Jigsaw
* And of course, access to a Laser Cutter

You will also need the following materials:

* Acrylic Sheet (at least 1/4" thick and 8 1/2" x 11")
* Three or Four Router Mounting Bolts (The size depends on your router. My router required three 5/16-18 bolts.)
* 3/4" Plywood 24" x 24" (I used birch.)
* Eight 5/16 Carriage Bolts, Split Washer and Lock Nuts
* Tool Stand Kit
* Cable Ties

HueZo3 months ago

ive got a router with the "SPEED control" in different place than the "ON switch"
if i want to do an extension and put a speed controller like yours... I simply connect the plug of the router to the switch, and put the speed switch integrated in the router at maximum??? or i have to intercept the circuit in an other place?

wwashington (author)  HueZo3 months ago
Hi,

I have never used anything with two speed controllers. I think what you described is worth a try.

HueZo wwashington3 months ago

forgot to say hi! jaja sorry. thanks! i'll try.

BillBiker1 year ago
Brilliant! Although I don't have access to a laser cutter, you have definitely sparked some good ideas from this instructable! Out of curiosity do you use a fence? If so what kind, length (dimensions), or did you make one? One person I saw asked about making a lift for it. An idea if you had a plunge router is making a shelf about mid way under the stand and use a car scissor jack. ;) . Again very nice to see a simple and easy router table made that makes the 200.00 ones look pathetic!
wwashington (author)  BillBiker1 year ago
Hi,

When necessary I use a makeshift fence clamped to the table. Since the original instructable, I've designed and made a second tabletop using Techshop's Shopbot CNC router. The new table has built-in rails to hold a fence. When I get the chance I'll update the instructable.

Thank you for my comment.

Winefred
Nice !
Have you thought of a lifter ?…
mwacuff1 year ago
Very nice instructable, thank you!

I have an older version of CorelDraw (x3) that will not open the file. What version of Corel did you use?
wwashington (author)  mwacuff1 year ago
Thank you.

I used CorelDraw 6 at Techshop. I don't know if CorelDraw 6 can save a file in version 3 format. I'll check on Monday, and if it can, I'll upload it too.
Thank you!

Suggestion: if possible, post as a PDF so everyone can open it.

Thanks in advance.
wwashington (author)  mwacuff1 year ago
I added a PDF version of the design. Unfortunately, I didn't see an option to save the design in an earlier version of CorelDraw.
Thanks, the PDF will be just fine.
DensterNY1 year ago
Wow, this is all kinds of awesome. Thanks for the instructable. I've been wanting to build something like this for the longest but thought that I'd need a metal face plate and never thought about an acrylic one.
ZaneEricB1 year ago
This is great! I have a hitachi tr-12 3hp router....which i am almost scared to death when i use...but this will be a nice addition and will give me some more confidence when i use it.

Thanks!
besheer1 year ago
thanks for Routing Table
This looks slick. Great job.
wwashington (author)  audreyobscura1 year ago
Thank you.
Nice job.....after using acrylic, lexan, and other plastics I've been happiest with 1/4" phenolic...tough, doesn't flex/vibrate, and the mounting screws don't chip out.
actionjksn1 year ago
The speed control is a good idea if you are using fairly large diameter bits. If you don't use a speed control you can use a light switch. Also you should rout some slots in the table big enough for some carriage bolts to use with wing nuts and make an adjustable fence out of plywood.
Geedox1 year ago
Nice Idea! Remember way back when I made an emergency routing table from a piece of 1/2 inch clear plexiglas. The contraption included a Stanley Workmate (tm) table/vise for support (The plexiglas is somwhat flexible when no fully supported. Keep it up!
perfo1 year ago
Good job fella, I've made similar myself and think they come out more sturdy and usable than brought ones.
Jig sawing and rebating the ply table to fit the acrylic sheet in is quite tricky if you want very straight even cuts and a nice fit to the acrylic plate. I haven't quite sorted a quick easy method of doing this, though I have had good results with a bit of brass inlay to neaten it. The other thing I find handy is inlay a couple of bits of T slot in to the table which allows you to fix fences to the table when needed. Tool height adjustment is another thing I'd like to find a quick easy solution to. As it's a pain to have to go under the table or lift the router out to do and tool adjustments. Having a hinged option helps to make it quicker but it's not very elegant. A stepper motor driven option works well and very easy and accurate once in and working but is difficult to set up in the first place and precludes taking the router in and out for other uses. A fairly simple option is to have a 2" X 1" through a pivot under the table then under the router and out to the front of the table where it can be locked in position. You use the springs of the router to push down and the 2 X 1 to push up..put an indicator scale on the front as well if you wish but remember it will be an arc not a linear scale. Oh and last but not least in my opinion you must have a NVR switch. Combine that with a emergency stop bar and you’ll make it as safe as it can be.
woodNfish1 year ago
Nice job. I have my router table mounted on the right side of my table saw between the front and rear fence rails. I use my table saw fence for the router just by sliding it over to the left side.

Another table option is simply to buy a used cabinet like a sink cabinet or bar cabinet and mount your router plate in the top. If it is a closed cabinet it helps with the noise and sawdust and you can add vacuum and storage options. Especially if the cabinet already has some drawers. Sometimes you can even get a used cabinet for free.
mikecz1 year ago
I just use a 2 ft x 4 ft piece of 3/4" plywood on a pair of saw horses for my router table. An "upgrade" I have that you could add to yours is to route a nice straight dado slot across the plywood sheet that is width & depth of the miter/crosscut guide slot on my tablesaw. This way I can use the tablesaw's sliding guide on the router table too!
malcolmt1 year ago
Nice Job, Thanks
ventifact1 year ago
Fence?
wwashington (author)  ventifact1 year ago
Hi,

Good question...

I don't have a fence solution that I'm pleased with, so when necessary I'd use a 2x4 clamped to the tabletop.

Also, I recommend only using router bits fitted with a bearings.

After I complete the Shopbot training, I may add a fence design to this instructable.
I was thinking the same thing. I have a finger (or lack of part of one) to prove they are a good idea.
Now if you could add a top height adjustment device I would have the perfect router table I have been looking for. I have the same router so looks good to me

Ron
Great job.

I just wanted to send out a handy hint for anyone looking to do a router table build of your own. Corian or any of the new counter top materials make great surfaces for router tables. I just used a piece of white Corian for mine and it is great.

The piece I used was given to me free by an installer. It was the section they cut out of the counter to install the kitchen sink. It is waste for them and a friendly shop maybe willing to give you some also. The shape was rough so I needed to clean it up, but it cuts well with power tools (don't try it with granite).

I am hoping to put a Lexan insert into my table soon also.

Thanks for this.
MR..1 year ago
Nice work!