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In this Instruction, I want to show you how to build a DIY Selektive-Laser-Sintering (SLS) 3D-Printer. I am 17 years old and made everything by myself. Since 6 month my big dream was to build up a working SLS-3D-Printer, but there is a problem. The most SLS-3D-Printers are very expensive and only aviable for the industry. So I build my own printer. Often I was disappointed. Especially with the material, but after a month of experiments I found the right powder for a test print.

Here are some specs:

  • 1W 445nm Laserdiode
  • 8x8x8cm Buildvolume
  • 36x54x60cm Outsidedimensions
  • CORE-XY Movement
  • Speed: 60mm/s tested, 300mm/s possible
  • costs around 400€

If you like my Instructable, please vote for me in the 3D Printing Contest :-)

Step 1: Video / Test Prints

This is my first test print with this printer.

The gear is printed in black powder coating material at 60mm/s.

It has a size of 3x3x0,5cm and took one hour to print.

Video of the gear:

have you tested this out with other plastic powders? I'm about to design and build a small SLM printer and a temp to use polymorph powder, (£14 per 500g tub) with black powder dye mixed in. I would love to see what other parts you have printed on this machine. thanks
<p>Sadly I don't printed any other powder than the powder coating powder succesfully. This has something to do, that I don't have an heated bed/ heated chamber /heated partbed. Even for sugur you need to heat the powder.</p><p>But all these problems where solved in the next version. So stay tuned.</p><p>Do you want to build a SLM Metal printer? Which Laser do you have?</p>
<p>excellent disciplined approach to engineering and design. I wish you the best in your carreer.</p>
<p>epic project mate, i was wondering if it would work with aluminum powder?</p>
<p>In this setup it will not work with aluminium powder. If you plan to sinter metal, you need an very strong laser &gt;100w and the right wavelenght. Also you need to print in a gas atmosphere to prevent self explosion of the powder. You have to take attention on static and many other security features. It is not that simple as expected :-)</p>
<p>What about fine aluminum powder mixed with say 20% fine wax powder. Then sinter part in oven, wax melts away leaving aluminum part with slight reduction in size. </p>
<p>Also i think with metal sls as you describe the inert gas is to prevent oxidation. </p>
<p>Very nice work. </p><p>Thelaser housing won&acute;t be shipped to germany and where do you get the brackets from. Is it also a stl file?</p>
<p>Hello,</p><p>i forget to upload the brackets. Sry. I attached them in my comment.</p><p>You can use any housing for an TO-18 Laser. If my liked one is not aviable, I would chose this one: </p><p><a href="http://de.aliexpress.com/item/Laser-Module-Housing-33x33x50mm-for-5-6mm-TO-18-LD-with-Glass-Lens-Fans/32477408916.html?spm=2114.010208.3.169.hoJmqZ&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_10,searchweb201602_5_10057_10056_10055_10037_10049_10033_10059_10032_10058_10017_10060_10061_10062_10064,searchweb201603_7&btsid=6ef8f881-f0bb-4ccd-8eca-ac3987190532">http://de.aliexpress.com/item/Laser-Module-Housing...<br></a></p><p><br></p>
<p>THX. And where did you get you slotnuts from? Could you publish an Illustrator file or something like that about the wooden box...No clue how to built it. Can&acute;t with Fusion.</p>
<p>For the slot nuts, please look at my Vulcanus V1 instructable. I made the nuts out of normal hex-nuts. I added an additional File for the pistons</p>
<p>very nice and helpful.</p><p>will it work with metal powder?</p>
<p>very nice and helpful.</p><p>will it work with metal powder?</p>
<p>This is easily one of the best-documented projects on here. Excellent work.</p>
Great job. Clear instructions. Giod. Thanks
Congratulations on this great project!<br>Thanks for sharing!
<p>This is one of the best instructables I have seen. </p><p>next step is a metal version :P</p><p>Well done mate!</p>
<p>This is amazing and I can see you have a great mix of technical knowledge and problem solving skills. Way to go, keep it up!</p>
<p>Is it v-slot where can I buy this?</p>
<p>can this create non-prismic bodies, i.e. not simple vertical extrusions?</p>
yes. This kind of 3d printer is the least restrictive when it comes to possible part geometry. It is the perfect machine for printing organic, complex, even hollow shapes. It's even posible to integrate internal mesh or honeycomb structures in to your parts.
<p>17 years old huh? That would not have been my guess because this is <u>excellent</u> work! Keep it up</p>
<p>Good project! Impressive! But be DOUBLE CAREFUL with lasers.</p><p>To protect your eyes from BLUE laser you need RED googles that block blue and green light (opposite of the spectrum, as far as possible).</p><p>Green googles are not good enough, because green color is too close from blue, green googles do not block enough blue light. Or you need excellent green googles.</p><p>---------------</p><p>Same idea, when you play with RED lasers you need BLUE googles.</p><p>The error (which you did not make) is using BLUE googles for BLUE laser, because blue laser pass through blue googles. Same for RED.</p>
<p>I completely agree about being extra careful with eye safety/goggles/shields for something like this.</p><p>However, it would be overly simplistic to say that you can judge the blocking ability of laser safety goggles purely by their apparent color. If such goggles are relying solely on the colored dyes added to polycarbonate during manufacture, their ability to attenuate a laser in wavelengths they don't normally &quot;pass&quot; very well, they are not going to reduce the beam by very many magnitudes - a dark tinted pair of grey sunglasses could even in some cases be measurably more effective. Really high quality laser safety glasses are not simple colored gel filters in principle.</p>
<p>Nice work!</p>
19. Step detail place
Hi step 11 12 19 detail place
<p>Very nice work! Congrats!</p>
Step 7: file &quot;Config.ini&quot; <br>and Step 26: file &quot;Config.ini&quot; <br>are not downloadable has we receive back one error saying &quot;wrong username and/or password&quot;...<br>Can you repost it, maybe in a ZIP?
<p>Sorry, my mistake. The config.ini in step 7 and 26 was the same as in 28. Yesterday i uploaded the config.zip, but I forgot to delete the config.ini</p>
I suggest you build your self a grinding machine, and an array of sieves and meshes... and just try recycling plastic bottles or something. <br><br>otherwise try polymorph, it has a very low melting point ~ 60&deg;, mechanical properties similar to nylon, but it is sold as granules, not powder, so it will need to be made in to powder. good luck
<p>I cannot access the &quot;<a href="https://www.instructables.com/files/orig/FIH/EMF9/IP91LF6N/FIHEMF9IP91LF6N.ini" rel="nofollow">config.ini</a>&quot; file, can you re-post it, please?</p>
<p>There was a problem with the &quot;.ini&quot; ending. I zipped the file and uploaded it again. Now it should work :-)</p>
<p>It is very nice text an very good explain all thing but in last paragraph (and one of important part) HOW TO WORK ! it is weak.</p><p>one of good point is referring to source. and ability of downloading of SLT files.</p><p>And again thanks for your effort. and wish great success for you.</p>
<p>It is very nice text an very good explain all thing but in last paragraph (and one of important part) HOW TO WORK ! it is weak.</p><p>one of good point is referring to source. and ability of downloading of SLT files.</p><p>And again thanks for your effort. and wish great success for you.</p>
<p>Nice work dude - you absolutely got my vote!. I have a couple of suggestions: </p><p>1 - nylon will fuse more consistently</p><p>2 - the commercial units raise the powder to about 5-10 degrees below the materials melting point so the laser only needs to bring the material up a small amount, if you do this you will be able to print faster and more consistent because the material will fuse very quickly - it will cause you problems because you'll need to insulate the chamber and possibly cool the laser unit and other equipment above the print area but it will make better prints. </p>
<p>I am blown away! When I was 17 I was mostly worried about how I was going to play Portal on my Mac!</p><p>This is super cool!</p>
<p>I am in awe. I'm midway through an FDM printer build, but SLS? That's really impressive as a DIY build.<br><br>I would love to take a shot at building one like yours. I'll have to save it as a project for later.</p>
I work in a photocopier repair and supply shop. Very often, I have to empty waste toner bottles. If you can find a photocopier shop in your area, they might let you have some of that powder for free. Waste toner is usually all the colours mixed together
<p>Yes that can be an option, but for me toner is to dangerous. It is carcinogenic .</p>
<p>The toner powder in itself is inert. The danger lies in inhaling small particulate matter such as toner powder. Powder coating powder used to &quot;paint&quot; metal objects falls into the same category of being dangerous to inhale. As Normand may confirm, special vacuum cleaner filters are used to prevent the powder from being exhausted into the air, when cleaning a copier or laser printer. People who perform powder coating should also wear breathing protection, but very often do not. </p><p>The same caution applies to PA12 nylon.</p><p>Please exercise care when using such powder.</p>
<p>My understanding is that commercial units have heaters for the beds so that the printing material is raised up to temperature just below the melting point so that laser beam just has to put-it-over-the-edge. Ie, lets you use a lower powered laser for a particular material.</p>
<p>Very good.</p><p>Just a thought about materials. Try recycling plastic milk bottles (other materials that are FDM printable should also be ok) into little beans/chunks then grind in a coffee grinder. Naturally, use ground strap, dust mask and goggles for dust exposure.</p>
<p>Check out this one:<br><a href="http://www.andreasbastian.com/3dp/3dp.html">http://www.andreasbastian.com/3dp/3dp.html</a></p>
<p>I wish the resolution/finish of the printed objects were better, but the machine has amazing build quality. I'm not familiar with SLS 3d printers so for all I know that desire may be unachievable. </p>
<p>Heh... I was looking through the pictures and thought to myself &quot;gee, these idlers and bearing holders look very familiar, as if the design is similar to the Vulcanus V2 3D printer I've been looking into...&quot; Then I checked, it's the same guy! You are a boss!</p>
<p>Nice! One step away from metal laser sintering at home!</p>
wow. well done. extremely detailed instructible.
Great looking build!
Oops, third = tried

About This Instructable

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Bio: I am an 18 years old guy from Germany who love to make things. Later I want to become an Electrical Engineer :-)
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