Introduction: De-Rust Your Old Table Saw

I purchased an old rusty table saw from the local classifieds. It was a great deal, but it was very rusty - rusty enough that it was hard to use and desperately needed help. Here's how you can remove the rust from your old table saw and give it a new lease on life as a useful tool!

Step 1: Cut the Rust

The first thing to do is to remove your blade insert, the blade itself, your fence, miter gauge, etc. If you're so inclined, you can also remove the rails that your fence rides on. In my case, they needed little TLC anyway.

Use a putty knife or similar scraper to knock down the high rust spots and to make everything flat. You're not trying to cut into the metal or to scrape really hard, you just want to knock off the loose rust. Be careful not to gouge the surface, you want it to be as smooth and as flat as possible.

Step 2: Apply a Rust Remover

Now that you've got the loose rust removed, it's time to apply a rust stripper. I used a product from Rust-Oleum, but many other products exist. Traditionally, this sort of product is called 'Naval Jelly' and can be found at most automotive and home improvement stores.

Wear gloves and safety glasses! These chemicals can burn your skin. You also want to work in a well ventilated area. Open a door and set up a fan to keep the air moving, you don't want to breathe the nasty fumes from these chemicals, trust me.

Apply enough rust stripper so that you can slather on an even, wet coat of it with your gloves. Don't forget about the miter slots and edges. Make sure to coat everything while being careful to keep the stripper out of the inner workings of the saw.

Follow the instructions on the product that you end up using - mine said to let the chemical work for about 20 minutes before removing it. After the allotted amount of time, wipe the rust remover off with a rag or paper towel. The grime that you remove will be brown with rust. Reapply another coat of rust remover and repeat this process until there isn't any more visible rust and the chemical that you wipe off is gray with steel instead of orange with rust.

Step 3: Clean the Bare Metal

After removing the orange and brown rust from your table saw, the table still may not be clean and smooth. To knock down the rest of the rough spots, use an automotive rubbing compound or metal polish and a buffing wheel. You can use an orbital buffer or a polishing arbor in a drill.

Make sure to use products that do not contain silicone. Silicone will stay on the table and contaminate the wood that you cut, causing imperfections in anything that you paint. If you're not sure whether or not the product you're using contains silicone, look up the chemical's MSDS sheet and see if it contains "siloxanes".

Step 4: Apply Wax

After you're finished polishing the table's surface, wipe it down with a solvent like acetone until your rag comes off of the table clean. This will remove any chemicals that may still be on the table and ensure that there isn't anything left on the surface that might interact with the wax coat. Again, don't forget about the miter slots and edges.

After everything is clean, apply wax to seal the table's finish and to lubricate the surface. Most woodworkers will tell you to use Johnson's Paste Wax. I found it at my local hardware store. The product is sold as a flooring wax.

Apply the wax just like you're waxing a car. Apply a full layer, allow it to dry for 15-20 minutes (you'll see the wax haze over) and wipe it off. Since you're applying the wax to bare metal for the very first time, repeat this process at least one more time to make sure that all of the machining marks and surface imperfections are filled with the wax.

Step 5: Reassemble the Table

After you've applied an nice coat of wax to the surface, you can reinstall everything on your table. It's a good idea to clean everything as you put it back on. I used the same rag that I waxed the table with so that everything ended up with a thin coat of the slick wax.

Reinstall your fence, insert your blade insert, etc.

Step 6: Enjoy!

After everything's back together, your saw is ready for service again. Take a step back and admire the awesome job that you've done!

To keep your saw from rusting over again, avoid exposing it to moisture. This is difficult to do in the average garage or workshop, but you can take steps to reduce exposure. Avoid setting drinks and other tools on top of the table that might contain moisture. You should also periodically reapply a coat of wax to protect the surface.

Your saw's new finish, if properly maintained, will last for the life of the tool and serve you well. Enjoy!

Comments

author
diyj2 (author)2016-03-02

KUDOs to

jimustanguitar for this informative instructable. With a kind smile on my face, and courteous demeanor, I say that your detractor-criticizers have all labored under cumbersome deviations. Do you see what I mean? While we all argue to use our preferred method, our equipment corrodes and rusts due to inattention. When someone else uses their precious time to show us A way to survive in this expensive world, we need not turn his kindness into litigious frivolity. Thanks again, Jim. Keep the ideas coming.

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Silvester10528 (author)diyj22017-01-01

AND

You are not always the first owner on a piece of useful machinery!

My son has found many a decent and working tool at the junk yard that continues to serve us well for years after a bit of cleaning.

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jimustanguitar (author)diyj22016-03-02

Yeah, I had no idea that I was opening a Pandora's box full of WD-40... I merely intended to share 1 possible way to do things, 1 of many.

Thanks for the support - more Ibles coming soon!

Jim

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TomK32 (author)jimustanguitar2016-09-27

Opening a rusty Pandora's box filled with WD-40. The iron-y.

author
Wally-TonyaC (author)2017-01-24

Or do this for free by balling up aluminum foil, dipping it in water a few times as you rub the rust away. The key is to keep the aluminum wet. Free, simple and rust is gone! Works on chrome, cast aluminum and so on...

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sWillyPs (author)2017-01-01

Johnson's paste wax is the standard of high end wood working, mill-working and cabinet shops. Wax-on, wax-off. If you are thorough in wax-on, you'll never have rusty tools again. If you are thorough in your wax-off, you won't have wax residue interfering with finishing.

Also, use it on wood... jigs, fences, etc...

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Lion of Love (author)sWillyPs2017-01-03

a more modern and better way to lubricate a tool table is with a Molybdenum Disulfide Spray. These are dry lubes that bond to the iron surfaces and last years. They do not impede finishes and preserve the metal. They are used as release agents for molds too, sand can be found in industrial supply sources like McMaster.com (I was a special effects modelmaker for 25 years at the top of the industry. This is for real, friends.)

author

Thanks again for the tip. I'd definitely say that Moly is a winner. https://www.instructables.com/id/Lubricate-Metal-and-Inhibit-Rust-With-Moly/

author

On your advice, I ordered some Moly film lube, and used it on my new (to me) wood lathe. I ended up getting the CRC branded stuff because it was on Amazon... Anyway, the finish is beautiful. So far, no flash rust at all, and it's just gorgeous to look at. My lathe ways look like they're machined out of graphite. Here's bare gray iron vs the moly treated surface.

d5ZSeWs - Imgur.jpgHdz1suE - Imgur.jpg
author

That's great advice, I'll have to get some! In the months since I published the Instructable I've gotten some flash rust, even through the Johnson's Wax, so a more permanent solution is in order. Are there any specific search terms that I should use to help me find the right stuff?

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sWillyPs (author)jimustanguitar2017-01-05

You will have to re-apply paste wax, frequently at first, but after a few applications less frequently. I have an old Craftsman cast iron table saw that I bought with heavy surface rust, I sanded the rust off with a D/A, and the wax lets material glide smoothly across the surface as well as preventing rust. It's as smooth as glass now.

author

Here is a link to the stuff:

https://www.mcmaster.com/#1409k66/=15r6i0s

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KarenP177 (author)sWillyPs2017-01-01

Let's hear it for good ol' Johnson's Paste Wax! My dad had a can of it that was older than me which he used on woodworking projects. When I got him into working with me restoring antique spinning wheels, we quickly finished off that can and bought another. I currently have his approximately 70 year old Craftsman table saw in storage, which is why your Indestructible caught my interest. I had never thought of using Johnson's on metal. Maybe the next time I go to the storage facility I'll give it a good coat to prevent it from rusting.

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bpark1000 (author)2017-01-03

These rust strippers contain hydrochloric acid. This acid will fume and cause resting of all iron/steel in the shop, so do outside or ventilate thoroughly. After using the acid-containing product and wiping off (and immediately carrying used rags outside), I would wipe with damp rag containing some dilute ammonia/water. This neutralizes any residual acid, both on the surface and in the air. Then apply a liberal application of WD-40 to the surface of this, and any other tools in the same room, to get rid of any moisture.

Do not store the bottle of rust remover in the shop! Its fumes will cause rusting of all tools in the shop.

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Lion of Love (author)2017-01-03

Here is a link to the dry lube spray I like. It's a Molybdenum Disulphide spray and it will last a long time! Doesn't interfere with any finishes.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#1409k66/=15r6i0s

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KlondikeMike (author)2017-01-01

To help protect against the elements, after waxing I made a cover using 1/2" MDF and covered the bottom with felt. I added two stops on either end to hold the cover in place. I use this cover as a worktop for glue ups sharpening my tools, whatever I need it for. I also use a similar cover for my bandsaw but I use 1/8" or 1/4" plywood with the felt glued on. I live close to Houston, Tx where humidity is fairly high. The second pic you can see part of the top of my saw. It has been over 2 years since I waxed it. Used to live in Juneau, Ak where it rains about 95% of the time. I used the same thing there with equally good results. Also save those silica bags from shipping boxes to put in with your small hand tools.

image.jpgimage.jpg
author

nice one! See my comment above about table covers. The felt is unnecessary though and can attract moisture. It is also far more fragile than a nice plywood surface which can also be waxed.

author

I thought as you did on the felt absorbing moisture but unless you pour water on top of the surface you won't get moisture absorption. I used the mdf because the plywood alone had a tendency to warp. But there again I didn't seal it with wax. I've been using the felt for 15 years without incident. I use the felt in my planes cabinet for my planes with the same result and as an added feature it protects the blades too so I don't have to retract the blade and then reset it when I want to use the plane a little further down the road. Both of our techniques have merit, well done.

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june48bug (author)2017-01-03

My mother always had a garden. Every couple of years she would hand us kids the can of Johnson's wax & some old rags. It was our job to first clean all her garden tools -- hoe's, rakes, spades & shovels. We then had to use our hands to rub the wax over every nook & cranny of every tool, let it dry, & polish with the rags she gave us. I am 68 yrs. young and I still have some of her tools. Anything metal that stays or is used outside, my metal leg picnic table, gazebo, lawn mower, snow blower, even the axle's & wheels of my garbage cans gets a coat of Johnson's or Butcher's paste wax. Over the years I've saved a ton of money by not having to replace these items. Because most everything today is made with cheap pot metal or god knows what, I try to maintain my older tools and believe me , the paste wax works!

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Scottenterprizes (author)2017-01-01

TIP : I have had this same Sears Table Saw for over 20+ yrs. I have cleaned the Rust off of it Several times. I Suggest using a Belt Sander with Fine Grit #100 or so. Sand lightly to remove the Rust,Wipe with a Clean Rag, then Wipe with WD-40 & Wipe it off. This will leave no Residue,but will fill the Pores in the metal, Retarding further Rust ! Rust Remover is an Acid and no matter how well you try to Remove it, it will get into the Pores of the metal, Thus encouraging more Rust !

author

Using a belt sander is a very bad idea. Unnecessary too.

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Lion of Love (author)2017-01-03

I live near the ocean, thank the Gods, so my iron tool tables rust quickly. To stop steel or iron tables from rusting, I make plywood surface covers that have small pieces of wood glued to their undersides that engage the miter slots and edges of the tables this makes them into work surfaces when the tool isn't needed, protects them from damage, preserves the wax finish, and completely stops rust! They are easily removed and set aside, or even hung on the side of the tool stand or base when the tool is in use. I've done this for thirty years and it works great. It also adds valuable work surfaces! Add a layer of Masonite to the tops to make them easily replaceable.

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geckopsx (author)2017-01-02

Although it may look as a simple post, it IS really useful. Right now I am thinking on many ways to apply the little secrets I learned from this. Good job!

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MissionSRX (author)2016-01-20

Nicely done! I usually go with steel wool and Boeshield to keep the rust down on my tools but I've never had to deal with anything that extreme.

Did you have any issues with rust on the internal components? Does the blade still raise/pivot correctly?

author

Luckily the internals were clean and rust free, it was just surface rust on the table top itself that had to be cleaned up. The previous owner didn't treat or seal the top and left it out in the rain while building a deck, that's how it got so bad.

author

WD 40 has NO silicones and never has had Anything clened/freed off using it needs follow up lubrication such as 3 in 1 oil

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tailsnz (author)john mantova2017-01-01

so true. why do people think wd40 is a lubricant?

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RayM103 (author)tailsnz2017-01-01

From

https://wd40.com/cool-stuff/myths-legends-fun-facts


A QUESTION OF LUBRICATION

Myth: WD-40® Multi-Use Product is not really a lubricant.

Fact: While the “W-D” in WD-40® stands for Water Displacement, WD-40® Multi-Use Product is a unique, special blend of lubricants. The product’s formulation also contains anti-corrosion agents and ingredients for penetration, water displacement and soil removal.

author
Technoaussie (author)2017-01-01

Excellent stuff! I followed your instructions to the letter on a 10" disk sander I hadn't used for a few years. It gained a health coat rust during that time. I was about to sell it at a garage sale until I read your instructable. Now I have a good as new sander again and the confidence to do the same to many of my cast iron tools that went rusty between living in a condo and moving to a house. Thanks I agree with diyj2 BTW.

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blkhawk (author)2016-01-20

A friend of mine used WD-40 and fine sanding paper. He claimed to have worked well for him.

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jimustanguitar (author)blkhawk2016-01-20

There are certainly many ways to skin the cat - what works for a cabinet maker will be different than what works for a contractor. Be cautious with abrasives and use them sparingly so that you don't affect the flatness of the table or add roughness and scratches that keep wood from sliding smoothly across the top. Also be careful with oils like WD-40, similar to waxes that contain silicone, they can cause paint to fish-eye and keep stains from absorbing into wood properly.

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M. A.G (author)jimustanguitar2016-01-24

WD40 evaporates. One can always use wd40 on metals knowing eventually it'll be gone, unlike silicone.

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aking14 (author)M. A.G2017-01-01

Only the volatile parts of WD-40 evaporate. While that's a lot of it, it specifically leaves a residue or it wouldn't work to quiet metal on metal hinges once it evaporated. From one of the discussion groups way back, one of the components is rosin, part of why it attracts dust and dirt after it's been used on something.

Great for what it's good for, terrible for contact with things that will need further finishing, like everyone is saying.

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pfred2 (author)M. A.G2016-02-07

Silicone is a big no no with woodworking tools. Well, if you plan on finishing any of your work anyways.

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M. A.G (author)pfred22016-02-17

yeah that's why I said it in contrast as it never goes away unless you use a solvent.

author

I agree with that about the fish eye also eating fatty foods and then handling them is also bad wash hands after fish and chips mmmmmm

I do alot of finish work for a kitchen design company and keeping oils and silicon away from cutting surfaces is paramount as it costs alot for repainting of the product

author

Excellent point, keeping your hands clean will also help you avoid finishing issues!

author
nwonharp (author)jimustanguitar2016-01-24

Kind of reminds me of :

I was working with a friend of mine at a workbench years ago and he was giving me some tips about how to work on this or that . and he said several times that there are many ways to " kill a cat " . after a while , I said " hey , wait a minute ! " If we keep this up , we will be up to our waists in dead cats !!

Anyway , Thanks , good advice on taking care of a saw !!

Cheers , take care , and have a good day !..73..

author
wb8nbs (author)blkhawk2016-01-25

That's what I did with my old Craftsman. Block sanded the top with coarse wet/dry sandpaper wetted with WD40. The saw lives in an unheated garage, I wax it with Caranauba at least twice a year. In fact I paste wax just about every metal tool out there.

author
tailsnz (author)2017-01-01

good instructable and decent advice. i see people telling others to use a coarse sandpapaer which ruins the level of the bed. we didn't have paste wax when i trained and used a standard white candle which we rubbed on the metal and then polished off. a bit of elbow grease but it did put a really nice protective finish on the iron (but as an apprentice you always got the worst jobs lol)

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Scottenterprizes (author)2017-01-01

Tip : I have has this Sears Table Saw 20 +Yrs. had to clean Rust off several times. I suggest using a Belt Sander w/ fine Grit #100 or so. Just sand lightly to remove the Rust and wipe with WD-40, then Wipe it off. that way it will not leave a Residue, but will fill the Pores in the metal, retarding more Rust

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EddieShaw99 (author)2017-01-01

Nicely done.

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horphmyre (author)2017-01-01

Hey, you cleaned my saw. Nope, I just checked the garage. It's still there and in need of your cleaning tips. Thank you. I'll see what I can do.

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DonnH1 (author)2017-01-01

WD40 can be useful but it's not good to coat fine parts as in a sewing machine or expensive guns. Once the carrier evaporates from it there is a sticky protective film. If that's what you want fine. After you get the surface of your band saw, table saw, etc, clean simply put a small tarp over it. You will find that it does a very good job of keeping new rust off. Still a good idea to put some sort of protectant on the surface to help leep rust off but also to make the surface slick. I found a saw shop that carried a spray for applying to saw blades. I use it on the blade and also the surface of my saw table. Wow! It really makes an improvement to wood handling.

author
JamesW440 (author)2017-01-01

This is an interesting instructable and very well done. Please allow me add to the 'controversy' over WD40 by making this COMMENT:

When you read an instructable, you might be doing so because you want to know whether or not it works for something you might be planning to do - not only for 'old table saw'. The folks who add their 10 cents are being extremely helpful. If you want a series of comments lauding the writer, the instructables will get bland in a hurry. The commenters are saying that they have used another method and why or how it worked. Perhaps they could have been more clear, but why make it into a controversy.- jimustanguitar has been very good about this for the most part in all of his responses except that you can tell the comments bothered him some.

That said, it is not necessary to 'bash' the comments, just say what is the issue with them. If you don't like discussion, don't read or write instructables because you are going to see it.

And to the fellow that said WD40 is 'not good for our use' - that was not helpful. Unless you are planning to give a reason for your opinion, don't state one. Thousands of people have used WD40 for almost everything and have been very successful. This is not a controversy - it is a difference in usage. You use your table saw for fine wood and furniture or some such might mean to use wax or something else, so your requirements are different from those who use it occasionally to cut up a 2X4. Where do you get the high standing to make that kind of comment? You don't, so don't, it only starts a 'controversy'.

And to diyj2 - in my opinion there has not been any criticizers or detractors of this instructable and I have read all this 10 months later. The only detractors was the response to the poor soul who had the temerity to suggest that WD40 works well and described how. He responded to the criticism. jimustanguitar answered him well, though he complained about controversy later, but others didn't - and your comment, diyj2, in your second sentence was unnecessary, added fuel to the fire and added nothing. Your comment would have been better without everything after the first sentence down to the last two. It also provoked me to comment on this other baloney.

Now I'll throw another one at you - I use my table saw to cut up metal - it works great! But I have had some problems with rust, not severe. This instructable was very helpful and I might try the wax.I don't want to use WD40 and I saw some other products that I might try. Do you see what I mean now? I have been just wiping it down with mineral spirits, but I need something else to keep it. I don't want oil on it - too messy.

So this instructable was very helpful to me, especially with the helpful comments of your so-called 'detractor-criticizers'. I hope you didn't take those comments or this one as being criticism of you or your instructable..

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johnnydee2 (author)2017-01-01

Its great to see what some would consider a throw away returning to like new condition with a little effort!

Great DIY Jim !

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pfred2 (author)2016-01-22

I am curious where you learned that WD-40 is a poor product choice for long term protection against rust and corrosion? While there are some longer lasting products out there all of those are more expensive, and difficult to apply. So declaring those to be better is somewhat subjective. I have never heard the claim that WD-40 degrades steel in any way either.

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ICman (author)pfred22016-01-24

WD40 contains water, it is a solvent meant for cleaning and removing contaminates including rust. It gives common folks the illusion of lubrication because the decontaminated part moves freely. WD40 will work fine on moving parts like hinges, chains... as long as you repeat treatment when necessary. 3N1 oil is cheap and provides long-term protection to moving and nonmoving parts. There is no expiranced mechanic that doesent own both.

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DaveS259 (author)ICman2016-12-27

I'm sorry, but a product designed to repel and displace water (the WD stands for water displacing) CONTAINS water?

Sheer NONSENSE. Why would you state something as fact when you DO NOT KNOW IT IS FACT? You either somehow just randomly came up with this nonsense, or heard it from some other jack--- and parroted it. Both are reprehensible.

Learn truth. Don't talk or type unless you KNOW it's truth. Simple.

author
mikecz (author)ICman2016-01-24

As a guy who owned a hardware store for 30 years (and worked in it for years before that when my Dad owned it), I am here to tell you the "WD-40" stands for water displacing formula #40. You don't put water in a product meant to displace water! This is how it prevents rusting of ferrous materials, at least for the short and medium term - it keeps the water away!

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