Diy Arduino Laser Engraver

64,878

757

56

Published

Introduction: Diy Arduino Laser Engraver

I started this project because first time I wanted to build something like what I found on the Internet does not contain all information had to look for more projects to put them together to understand something and I wanted to be as simple and cheaper for a draft wekend.
SAFETY WARNING - Please Be Safe When Using lasers. The Laser Used in this machine of can cause permanent eyesight damage, and probably Even blindness. When working with powerful lasers (> 5 mW), always wear a pair of laser safety glasses designed to block your laser's wavelength.

Step 1: The Frame

The frame is constructed of rectangular 15x15 mm, height being 275 mm, width 375 mm and length of 345mm.
Must take into account all inbinarile be 90 degrees, for if these are not the y axis will not work properly and will lock and can not do the whole race. All pipes must be cut accurately.

Round 8 mm pipes to be installed in four holes at 125mm from below. On 8 mm round pipe will introduce two pieces of 8mm round pipe inside. On pieces of pipe 8mm x axis will weld nuts and under them two 5 mm. All details are displayed in pictures. After the pieces were welded cleaned of rust and paint but first we will protect the nuts and 8mm pipe is not painted.

Step 2: X and Y Axes

We'll use threaded rod to 5 mm and will give 4 holes at 114 mm from the bottom.
The rod will be 365 mm and we will fix the frame with nuts in the following order in the rear with auto lock nut, 15 mm pipe sauiba with two nuts locked together, coming just two tipsy with washer inside the frame. Now if you rotate the threaded rod to rotate but it will not get out of the frame. X we use 5mm threaded rod will give two holes in and we use the same technique as the Y fixing.

Step 3: Mounting the Motor

I used 28byj-48 5V motor first need to hack, disassemble the blue cap and cut the red wire, because we will not folosi.Pe circuit board, we see the connection between coils, circuit scratch as I did.
If you want to know why I did that search the Internet and find out the answer for sure. Th motors fixed to the chassis with a screw of 3 mm and nuts, the connection between the motor and the threaded rod, is made of a piece of rubber with a through-hole of 4 mm.

For cheap motors by from here

3 stepper motor 2.12 buy from here
or 30$ 5 big stepper motor from here

Step 4: Electronics .Stepper Motors, Drivers ,Laser Diode

Step 5: Software

The machine is controlled by an Arduino Uno running grbl, and I'm using Universal Gcode Sender to stream gcode commands. To actually turn vector images into gcode, I'm using Inkscape with the gcodetools plugin. I used the spindle direction pin to turn the laser on and off, since that was easy to do with gcodetools.

Share

    Recommendations

    • Casting Contest

      Casting Contest
    • Woodworking Contest

      Woodworking Contest
    • Planter Challenge

      Planter Challenge
    user

    We have a be nice policy.
    Please be positive and constructive.

    Tips

    Questions

    56 Comments

    Some time ago I built a Laser Engraver with this GearBest Kit.

    Unfortunately I have not found a software acceptable and easy to use, so I wrote my own.

    My software allows to load a picture and send it to the laser engraver quickly and easily.

    My software is written in a generic way for almost all machines with standard GCode firmawre.

    At the moment the software is WORK IN PROGRESS currently, in ALPHA testing.

    As I needed to modulate the laser power (I have a 5500 mW one) I used GRBL firmware version 0.9 (other versions are ON / OFF, 0.9 is PWM)

    Here the Robot Laser Project page : http://www.robot-eyes.com/en/RobotLaser/

    I will update soon the page (for now very rough).

    Please send an email at robotlaser@robot-eyes.com with your opinion, thanks.

    7 replies

    what is the board you use for Robot Laser software? Thanks

    BenBox Laser arrive with ELEKS L7 integrated board.
    But I tested and works with Arduino Uno with CNC Shield V2 and V3,
    works with IntegratedCNC (Arduino Nano) by keyestudio
    (these 2 needs MOSFET Decoupler for Laser)
    Also works with Arduino uno/due/mega/duemilanove with RAMPS 1.4
    (In this case needs Marlin firmware instead of GRBL)
    But this solution is deprecated,
    useful only if you want to convert a 3D printer to laser engraver.
    Carlo

    Thank you Sir so much.
    And i saw everyone uploaded only the Hex file, could you please upload the Sketch folder of GRBL? Because i want define the limit for the frame. If i want to increase the X,Y travel, i have to define in sketch library, can not re-define in Hex file. Is it correct?
    Appreciated for you help.

    GRBL uses the followings pins

    D02 Step X -
    D05 Dir X

    D03 Step Y -
    D06 Dir Y

    D08 Motor
    Enable

    D11 PWN Laser

    No matter if is CNC Shield, Eleks or IntegratedCNC or other GRBL boards .

    I suppose i've already send response here:

    http://benboxlaser.us/index.php/topic,985.msg13644...

    You don't need to compile GRBL to define area, homing, speed, resolution etc. You can (better.. MUST) insert this data in GRBL Parameters.

    This is GitHub page for GRBL : https://github.com/grbl/grbl - (yes, contains source code) but I do not recommend you change it unless you have VERY CLEAR ideas. You can do almost any configuration online.

    Look at:http://benboxlaser.us/index.php/board,51.0.html

    Regards

    Thanks a lot RobotEyes. And with basic Uno board, if we use pin D11 for PWM Laser , we have to use one Transistor and relay to control the laser diode? Is it correct? And I saw the "2 axis laser engraving board" selling on eBay, banggood, Ali..(cost 21$) .they connect 12V laser direct on the board. Is it have onboard mostfet or relay? Thank you Sir.

    If the objects are http://www.banggood.com/it/2-Axis-Stepper-Motor-Dr... and http://www.ebay.it/itm/2-Axis-Stepper-Motor-Driver... are Eleks L7 boards, so are OK !!! Exacly the board I use on BenBox Laser machine.

    At the moment there is a pre-release of GRBL ver 1.1, but developers are not shure it works in Arduino Nano hardware. From my first test (today) seems designed for Arduino due (32 bit CPU) wich is not compatible with standard shields. (use 3.3V interface instead of 5V).

    So.... don't worry, and use Eleks board, the best Cost/Benefit ratio.

    Carlo

    And all the pins out of Arduino CNC Shield is the same with Eleks board, or Arduino Nano, is it correct, RobotEyes? I am so confusing with thease boards. The author just uploaded the Hex file only. So, all ARDUINO board for CNC projects they will defind the pins out (out put for signal) the same with all boards, right???

    Would love to see video of project in action or at least comment on speed. I have small engraver which will do 2x2" but it takes FOREVER! Wondering what laser wattage is needed to get to something like "Printer" speed?

    How deep would this laser be able to cut into hardened steel or SS for serial number applications?

    10 replies

    Most solid state (diode lasers) can't engrave directly into metals, but you can make a resist mask with adhesive vinyl sticker material apply the resist with the number or image you want with Ferric Chloride 50%/ Water 50%. (Safety goggles and a breather mask for fumes and good ventilation are a VERY good idea.)

    Some etches require immersion, but a serial number should do OK by using a Q-Tip to apply only on the zones uncovered by the vinyl, and let stand for a few minutes, rinse, check progress, and etch more if needed.Disposal of used solution should not be necessary for several etches, but when you do, an auto supply house may be able to dispose of it in an eco-friendly way (as in it's very much like battery acid) once mixed it forms hydrochloric acid. Car batteries use sulphuric acid. Neutralizing with baking soda until the bubbling stops is a good safety measure.

    John,

    Would this etching method create at least a .003" depth ?

    Someone posted the instructable earlier about etching a brew pot. That was my inspiration. I wanted to try it for Knives so I bought a couple of cheapies in the dollar store to test with.

    Almost ate halfway through one. I salvaged it by filling with colored epoxy and then sanding and buffing the blade back to life....

    Shameless plug here:

    https://commons.pratt.edu/open-source/simple-plati...

    IMG_3611.JPG

    BTW, if you can immerse the part a foam brush works too. Just shove a wire into the foam 1/4 inch from the end. Don't short it. That's why I used a 12V lamp in series. If I did short it it wouldn't gouge it. Even a Q-tip with a couple of turns of wire near the end works for small marks.

    Pretty sure it would, the lonnger the mertal is exposed, the deeper it goes.

    English or Chinese, not gibberish, please. I cannot understand your comment, HuynhQuangtoan.

    英国还是中国,不是乱码,请。我不明白您的评论,HuynhQuangtoan。

    You'd require also an electrolyte to allow passage of current through the water, distilled water does not conduct well. Some table salt will do the trick.

    And some workpeices can't stand submersion well.

    This was the instructable I was actually thinking of, just couldn't find it. Doesn't require immersion.

    However, I've watched "How it's Made" episodes where they demonstrate laser engraving of brand and serial numbers and, yeah they use MUCH more powerful lasers, because it's essentially FLASH and it's done.