Introduction: Dodge (5)45RFE Solenoid Pack Replacement

Had a code P0750 throw my check engine light for me, so since I needed to replace a solenoid and this is a pretty common dodge transmission, I thought I might put this up here so maybe someone else can benefit from my experience. Job was pretty simple. Took about 2 hours start to finish. Unlike some transmissions, the solenoids are not individually serviceable and require removing the valve body. The solenoid assembly sits on top of the valve body. You'll need to get a new pan gasket and I recommend replacing both oil filters in the transmission while you have it apart.

Tools Needed:

1/4" or 3/8" ratchet

~6" extension for ratchet

8mm socket

10mm socket

T-20 torx driver

Putty knife

Drain pan

Oil filter wrench

Solvent (soapy water, brake cleaner, etc)

medium to course grit abrasive pad

Step 1: Draining the Trans Fluid

These transmissions do not have drain plugs on the pans, so the only way to drain them is to remove the pan. This tends to make a little bit of a mess, so have your drain pan and some towels ready.

I like to remove all of the bolts down the sides of the pan, then remove all but the center bot on the front and rear. Once you're down to the two bolts, loosen the rear one to about 3/4 out, then loosen the front to the same. While holding the rear of the pan, remove the rear bolt and use a putty knife to get between the pan and the transmission housing. Lower the rear of the pan and let it pour out into the drain pan until it slows. When the trans fluid slows enough that it's almost stopped, hold the pan against the trans with one hand while removing the front bolt with the other. Lower the pan, empty it int the drain pan and set it aside.

Step 2: The Valve Body

OK.. so now you're looking up into the trans and you see the valve body. First we need to remove the black plastic filter housing. there is a single T-20 Torx bolt holding it on. Remove the bolt, set it aside and wiggle the filter off.

On the top side is a 20-way connector which needs to be undone. Release the red safety tab (slide downward), press the black release tab at the top of the connector and release the white locking bar. It might take a little wiggle, but the connector should come right off.

With the connector off, there are six bolts holding the valve body up. I circled their locations in red in the picture. Remove them. Once they're all out, it may take a little wiggling, but the valve body will drop out.

Step 3: The Solenoid Pack

The solenoid pack is held on by the bolts located in side the red box. take them all out and the solenoid pack will practically fall off of the valve body.

Step 4: Bolting Up the New Solenoids

After the new solenoid pack is in place and lined up, start the bolts and run them all down to about finger tight. There are arrows embossed into the valve body. These bolts MUST be torqued first. Torque all bolts to 50 in/lbs.

Step 5: Reinstall Valve Body

Lubricate the seal on around the connector with petroleum jelly. Position, align and reinstall the valve body into the transmission. Seat the valve body and install a bolt or two to hold it. Put the other bolts in and evenly and alternately torque them to 105 in/lbs.

Step 6: Buttoning Up the Job

Now is a good time to replace the filters. There are two in this transmission. one is the standard plastic filter which attaches to the valve body (the one we removed in the first couple steps. The other looks like an engine oil filter and screws on. Go ahead and replace these and meet me at the next paragraph.

OK. Filters are done. Remove the old pan gasket from the pan and clean the gasket surface with an abrasive pad and a mild detergent or brake cleaner. Take some warm soapy water or brake cleaner and rinse the inside of the transmission pan. Let the pan dry completely before reinstalling.

After cleaning the pan surface and giving the mating surface on the transmission a once over to remove an dirt and oil, position, align and install the transmission pan. Once all of the bolts are installed to finger tight, evenly torque the bolts to 105 in/lbs in an alternating pattern.

Reconnect the 20-way connector, fill the trans with about 5 quarts of ATF+4 and take it for a ride. Hopefully it all worked out for you.

Cheers!

Comments

author
tytower (author)2017-09-11

A useful post -thanks

Petroleum jelly is not a good lubricant for rubber seals in neoprene or
nitrile , It will harden and destroy them Rubber grease is better or
liquid glycerene

author
Swansong (author)2017-09-11

Thanks for sharing :)

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Bio: I'm a automotive technical curriculum developer and instructor and ASE certified Master Automotive Technician. I do a lot of side work out of my ... More »
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